Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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The high initial buy in of an LS1 simply precludes it from being thought of as economical. It may be the cheapest way to 400 HP at the wheels. But if that is your goal you need to be realistic about a budget. Just the reprogramming being talked about above can run into big bucks for tuning software and a laptop.
My suggestion is to install a near stock engine and resist the urge to modify it. A TPI 305 is near perfect for this. People practically give those engines away. Get the car on the road, then start saving money for the hipo engine. How much you can save will tell you what type of engine you can afford. This way you will have a drivable Z while you build the dream engine.
All too often engine projects never get out of the dream stage. Don't get caught in a cycle of never getting your Z on the road because you are waiting for something that you will never be able to afford.
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You guys are all too fancy.
Just butt the squared off pipe to the side of the other and make multiple passes with the MIG.
Fills in real good.
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Hot damn! That post got me excited! Could almost hear the top gun music in my head picturing those switches getting flipped one after the other.
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depends on how much money you have to spend, if i had 4000 to spend id MUCH rather buy an LS2 than mod an LS1, LS2 would be less finikey and more reliable
Show me where I can get an LS2/T56 combo for $4K and I'll buy it.
The handful of LS2 complete pull outs I have seen have all sold for closer to $8K.
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Getting an insurance company to SELL you a stated value policy is the easy part. Getting one to make good on one seems like a whole nother issue. It has been my experience that insurance companies' questions get a lot more pointed when it is their money and not yours.
I would actually like to hear from anyone who actually collected a stated value on a totaled vehicle. I have received insurance settlements on both damaged and one totaled vehicle. But in all those cases it was pretty easy to determine the worth of the vehicle. How much more difficult is it when even apraised values can change from year to year?
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I thought Tremec is building the T56 under licenses from Borg Warner?
The GTO web sight claims there are some subtle improvements in their later version of theT56 over the F body version. Slightly different gear ratios too.
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All of which is why I will only carry liability on my 36 year old car. Trying to argue, "what it is worth" with an insurance company is a losing proposition in my opinion. Couple that with most people's over inflated worth of their own vehicle. Just because you dumped $30K of new parts in your car doesn't make it worth $30K.
Jim would be better served getting his Supra money back in the form of chiropractor fees and a pain and suffering settlement.
And now will come the hand full of guys who "forced their insurance company to pay what THEIR car was worth"....
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Question is, is the energy exchange 100% efficient even though the direction of rod tension/compression force isn't always parallel to the tangential direction of the journal or direction of piston travel?
Yes, there will be tangential forces on the piston, but you have assumed a frictionless world so they won't matter. Yes, the energy exchange will always be 100% effieicent because without friction there is nowhere else for it to go. Energy is conserved, so as the kinetic energy of the piston is translated back and forth to the rotational energy of the crank, I would think the crank speed would have to speed up and slow down. The RPM should oscillate. The change in RPM will be dependent upon the relative mass of the piston and the crank's polar moment of inertia.
Did we finish your homework for you?
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Good question.
To answer this lets assume the rods weight is zero and let’s also removed the assembly from the engine. Otherwise you need to count the energy of expanding gases' date=' heat, ring friction, and noise.
Lets look each phase.
Newton's Law: Objects will tend to remain in there state of motion unless acted upon by a net external force.
1 The piston is at Top dead center (12 o’clock). It is stopped. When the crank rotates the smallest amount, the piston begins to move down. This slows the crank. The crank is giving up its kinetic energy to accelerate the piston.
2 When the crank reaches 3 o'clock the piston and the crank are in perfect harmony. Neither is trying to accelerate on another.
3 Now moving past 3 o’clock the piston wants to continue at it's velocity but must accelerate the crank to do so. So the piston transfers it’s kinetic energy to the crank.
4 The crank speeds up absorbing all the kinetic energy of the piston by the time it reaches 6 o’clock.
5 At this point the crank must provide the kinetic energy to accelerate the piston.
The cycle repeats. This question is easier to see when you isolate it the kinetic energy. The other factors are merely distractions.[/quote']
Are you describing the intake stroke or the power stroke? Cause in the power stroke the piston accelerates the crank and not the other way around. The kinetic energy of the piston is inconsequential relative to the energy being expended by the expanding air/fuel mixture.
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where does this line come from? It is in the article:
Women' date=' far more than men, are likely to act out their behaviors in real life, such as having multiple partners, casual sex, or affairs.
What studies back that up?[/quote']
I have read that before and for the life of me I don't understand it. I think they did a poll and asked men and women how many partners they have had in their lifetime.
But, if a straight man has had multiple partners, then doesn't that mean he has been with a bunch of different women? So how can the average man have had more partners than the average woman? Are there a handful of women who are REALLY getting around and inflating men's averages? But if they are all averages, then wouldn't the average for men and women have to be equal?
If they are talking gay men, then WTF cares what those guys do.
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Free porn or porn free?
As free as the wind blows.
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Why does the AZC part have a big hole in the center where the stock piece actually protrudes?
There is something scary about aluminum steering knuckles. Hopefully the design has been tested over along period of time. Hard to imagine something like that holding up for 30+ years without elongating the tapered fit holes.
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The piston is accelerated by the force of the burning fuel. This not only accelerates the piston/rod, but pushes on the crank arm accelerating it. The piston is then slowed down by the crank arm pushing back on the rod. In the process of being slowed, the energy that was in the moving mass is transfered to the rotating crank.
The energy in the moving reciprocating assembly is either converted to torque at the crank or dissipated as heat due to friction.
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Try wiping your seats down with a one of those cling free dryer sheet. the chemical in there will discharge the static charge.
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Isn't that the Eastwood product Pete Paraska used to seal his tank? The stuff that kept comming lose and stranding him on the side of the road?
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260DET- I wasn't planning on swapping the entire rear end. If you had read my post' date=' at the end of the fourth paragraph, you would have seen the question that I was asking, which was: [i'] is it reasonable to swap the r200 in, and attach the hub/rotor/caliper to the stock lower control arm and connect the two with some combination of adapters, stub axles, and CV's [/i]? In this case, track width wouldn't be an issue
You may want to tone down the rehtoric. Part of your problem is some of these guys are thinking several steps ahead of you. Track width is absolutely an issue since that will dictate the length of the half shafts. Your problem isn't angles, it is length.
provided the hub/rotor/caliper can be attached to the stock lower control arm...A very good question, but a very questionable assumption.
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The bolts have to be stronger than the stock rubber mount it came with. But having said that people (corzette?) have posted picks of metal straps used as diff mounts that snapped with a single launch. The forces are being applied rather abrubtly so static tensile strength can be misleading.
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i spent $2500 to rebuild a 350 and 700R4 (with me doing all the labor for the motor and $700 of that was having someone else rebuild a 700R4)
you can easily pick up a LS1 and 4L60E for $2500 and it would cost the same to swap an LS1 in as swapping in a SBC. in additon the SBC wont make as much hp or the same gas milage or be as reliable as an LS1. there is a reason why you see LS1s in just about anything you could possibly think of..
I am about to do an LS1 swap into a 240. My estimated budget is between 7 to 8 thousand right now. That is just the stuff I know about to make the swap. No suspension, brakes, paint and what not. Just engine & T56, mounts, hoses, driveshaft, exhaust, headers, instrumentation, HP Tuner, tank, fuel lines, service manual and an engine hoist. If I believe what everyone says about budgets, this one is on the low side. Once it is running I can worry about budgeting for chassis braces and 36 year old stub axles.
Fuel injection definitely adds cost and complexity over a carbed set up.
Early (98) LS1's with auto and 97K miles can be had for what you say. A late model F body LS1/T56 combo (2001 or 2002) with reasonably low miles typically run over $4k.
http://stores.ebay.com/Fparts_LS1-LS6-LS2-Engines
The extra 2 grand for the better engine and T56 seems like money well spent to me.
I don't have the luxury of thinking "could probably". I am going to do this so I need to be realistic.
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We have had guys run 9's on an R200 and U joints, so don't know that I agree with your basic assumptions.
The majority opinion here is R200 with some type of LSD, the CV conversion and at least 280 stub axles (if not Ross's billet stubs). Drums are actually adequate and don't need to be replaced. The one big advantage of rear disks is they keep the wheel with the car should a stub axle fail.
Not sure what is hodgepodge about this set up. All Nissan parts. Not sure how Nissan would have done it differently. In fact, add the 240 SX rear disks and you will have exactly what I plan to use with my 71-LS1-T56.
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Quit wearing polyester clothes.
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That will work. Have seen similar designs.
My favorite diff mount option is the one that cuts the stock mount in half putting one part above crossmember and the other half underneath, then fab up some metal extentions so the two pieces bolt together mid way. Sort of a clam shell approach.
I'll bet there are over a dozen different approaches to fixing the front diff mount.
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Blaming the unions for GM's problems is, without a doubt, a truely short sighted outlook on the problem.
A complicated problem to be sure. Kind of hard to say GM is a well run company given all their problems of the last 30+ years.
But I guess blaming the union is as good of a way to oversimplify the problem as any.
Besides, they only filed for Chapter 11 protection. Doesn't mean they are going out of buisness. Just means they are going to stop paying some debts for awhile. Hopefully the upper management will be once again drawing huge bonuses once they remerge from bankruptcy protection.
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I would think a different pad as well. Maybe a fresh turn of the rotors, then make sure you bed in the pads properly.
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Are you on the side of the lake that is upstream or downstream from the nuke plant?
I have never seen a lake with 98° water until we rented a place at Lake Anna.
WOW this would help with making headers or cages....
in Fabrication / Welding
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And what would be unsafe about it?