Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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Hey, welcome back. Haven't seen you post in a year or more.
The Ron Tyler site also mentions vibrations. He claims an aluminum driveshaft makes a big difference in a V8Z. Something about the short driveshaft and relatively high RPM due to the generally tall gearing in the diff. He also discussed alignment.
JTR talks about using GM motor and trans mounts and not generic knock offs for vibration also.
I posted some time ago the idea of using laser pointers. But I suggested mylar sheets and not smoke.
Fumes are a source of many discussions here. Do a search and start reading. Too much advice to summarize here.
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An empty mayo jar and a 2' piece of clear tubing work just as well and allow you to see the bubble and dirty fluid as it comes out of the caliper. The advantage of the empty jar with a lid is you can store it on a shelf between bleed jobs and the whole mess goes in trash once the jar is full.
Don't understand why anyone needs speed bleeders to make bleeding brakes a one man job but hey, given the number of threads on bleeding brakes it must be more difficult for some than others.
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For another $500 you can get a complete engine and tranny combo with a warranty
Then again, you might be able to talk the guy down to less than $1500
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Dig a pot hole a foot or so out from the parking lane and a car length or two back from where you park. Make it deep with square edges. Eventually the local traffic patterns will change to avoid that lane.
The Ben Hur bumper idea is a law suit waiting to happen should you ever clip a pedestrian or get in an accident.
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I agree with the real estate lady. I have an extreme dislike for tile counter tops. It might not keep me from buying the house, but it would be a mental note that I will be forced to upgrade them. I don't care how thin the grout lines are, they will still absorb moisture/stains as they age and will need to be maintained.
Just one man's opinion.
There is a huge difference between remodeling a house for sale and remodeling a house because you plan on living in it. Your goal is to sell the house as quickly as possible for the minimum expense. Unless the old kitchen was absolutely trashed, you probably will not regain the cost of the remodel via increased resale. That is true for most additions (with the exception of a bathroom).
Really, to sell a house the two most effective enhancements are paint and carpet. You want it to show well without adding anything that might distract a potential buyer with different tastes. That is why neutral colors show so well. Sort of a blank canvas that lets the buyer project their own sense of style.
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I vote MC. Have experienced this first hand and that was always the fix.
BTW, do not drive your car on the street until this is fixed. Eventually it might start taking 3 or 4 jabs at the brakes before they work.
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Maybe chiming in a bit late, but I have made enough cross country moves that I have no idea why anyone bothers renting a truck and moving themselves. As this thread shows when you include all the costs the big moving companies are not much more than driving yourself. But this way you get to avoid a cross country trip in some POS, massively uncomfortable rental truck.
Looks like I will be the odd man out and caution you about getting rid of too much stuff. By all means get rid of stuff you absolutely are not going to use or needs replacing anyway, but remember you are still going to need household items on this coast. In a move the money disappears faster than you can imagine and the last thing you want is to add the discomfort of a house with no funiture to all the stresses of relocating.
Also keep in mind you what you are doing rates about an 8.5 out of 10 on the life stress-O-meter. Probably somewhere just short of facing a prison sentence. So make sure you and your honey take some time for yourselves and each other. The petty arguments and stresses are just beginning to mount, and will continue for the next year or so, so remember to take time to remind yourself why you are doing this together.
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This has been talked about many times before. People have posted multiple links to build sites.
Do a search and read up on what you want to know.
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You do realize an uncracked, 240 dash is worth several hundred dollars?
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Someone hacked my wife's ebay account to sell an RX7. They want that 100% positive feedback rating.
Ebay actually took care of it in a day. We contacted the winning bidder, but they had pretty much figured it out before we contacted them. Would you buy a used RX7 located in one state from an ebay seller with a screen name of "poohmom" in another state ?
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So if I am reading this thread correctly, you guys just talked some 17 year old into trying to get 350 rear wheel HP out of a 300zx engine with 198 thousand miles on it?
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arent you worried about loosing your head in a possible roll over accident..?? or do you have a full cage.
personaly id never ever ever put a 4 or 5 point harness in a car without a roll cage
????
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Just bleed the clutch and keep pumping the pedal until clear fluid comes out.
Really quite trivial.
All you need is one person, a can of brake fluid, 2 feet of clear tubing and an empty jar. Put one end of the tubing on the bleed valve and the other in the jar. Open the bleed valve, then shut it with you fingers until you just get some resistance. Start pumping and refilling the reserviour until you see nothing but clear fluid in the tube. Then tighten down the bleed valve before disconnecting the tube and you are done.
Shouldn't take one person more than 15 minutes, depending upon how many beers you crack.
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So you guys honestly think turning the MC into a structural, load bearing part of the chassis is a good idea? No one is worried about chassis flex causing a single point of failure in the braking system? Or what type of stresses that aluminum MC might experience in an accident?
If the firewall flexs, why not run a support rod from the firewall itself to the fender?
I would suggest a person on a budget would do better to spend his limited money on parts that are known to work. Not some poorly engineer collection of mismatched parts.
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I know the time the air snorkle leading to my MAF became disconnected the engine did exactly that. The computer typically ignores a lot of the sensors during start up.
If the car use to run and suddenly doesn't , then I would not suspect the VATS.
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Shoot. I saw who posted and was looking forward to seeing John's myspace page.
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The master cylinder brace in that write up is truely laughable. He is trying to keep the firewall from flexing by pushing on the far end of an aluminum MC.
The problem isn't the arc in the pad doesn't match the rotor. The problem is the caliper isn't mounted correctly on the rotor.
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My 12/70 has 5 numbers (HLS3017725). I believe that is a sequential build number, or at least close to it. Your 9/70 should be less than my 17725.
Go to http://www.zhome.com. They have some good info on Z cars and VIN numbers.
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This place is just outside Philly. They don't have any LT1's listed right now but you might give them a call and ask. You could easily get there and back in a day.
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http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101446&highlight=locksmith
Amazing the amount of info on this site if you search for it.
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This is a somewhat aggravating thread.
Have read multiple threads where people tell you how much more expensive it will be to build a 302 vs. 350 and yet you are choking on the price. You have doubts about a single plane vs. dual plane manifold, and yet everyone has been telling you for some time that the 302 will have no bottom end (or at least will have to be all top end or it will be a dog).
You want the engine to rev quickly, but it will only do that if you don't have it in gear. Put the car in gear and the engine will only rev as fast as its torque curve can push the weight of the car. (And guess which engine, the 302 or 383, will have the needed torque?)
Reality's a bitch sometimes, isn't it?
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Just on the outside chance, you are inserting the caliper mounting bolts from the back side? The head of the bolt should insert from the strut side.
Try mounting just the caliper without the rotor. Can't imagine what would prevent you from being able to seat the caliper bolts all the way. You should be able to reuse the same caliper bolts you used with the stock calipers.
You also know that the dust sheild needs to be trimmed for the calipers to fit?
Also try mounting just the rotor/hub without the calipers. There should be plenty of room between the caliper mounting bolt holes on the splindle and the rotor. You did put the spacer between the inside of the hub and the top hat of the rotor? You need longer rotor mounting bolts to make this work.
Alex's picture below also has a wheel spacer on the outside of the hub. Don't confuse that with the .5 inch spacer.
I didn't need a wheel spacer with my swap. A little grinding on the calipers and some on the stock 14 wheels seems to make it all work. I just did this swap on my 240. If it required a different spacer, then I must have gotten lucky when I bought a used set of spacers. worked fine for me.
Excuse me if I said anything you already know. Just throwing out ideas.
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The one problem I would have with a 5.3 is none of them came with a manual transmission from the factory. Of course you could back fit everything to swap from an auto to manual, but seems like costs start to really mount when you do something like that.
There is something to be said for getting everything you want in one package from the get go.
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Hey Sean, do you know if you have any trouble with the fuel heating up when you run the fuel return back into the small surge tank? as this is not giving the fuel a chance to cool down (better off returning fuel straight to the larger fuel tank)
There should still be a return line from the surge tank to the big tank, so there should be fuel being circulated between the surge and main tank from the low pressure pump. If the HP return goes to the main tank, then the low pressure pump will have to have even more capacity to ensure the surge tank is alway kept full.
Aren't you guys with turbos concerned about a lean condition causing something to detonate and melt?
How much faster than a 280zx turbo engine conversion?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
I guess cheap is in the eye of the beholder