Pop N Wood

Good read Mario Andretti once said that no one is a born driver. It can only be learned from experience.

Not ot compound your problems, but Z's need antifreeze to keep the head from corroding and to lube the water pump.

Why, from GM products of course.

There is only one person in this thread who said ZX's didn't have as good of a competitive record, and I have already admitted I misinterpreted what you said in the past. Some good info you are listing none the less.

Several people have talked about doing this. I believe 2 or 3 are currently pursuing it. Do a search. There is even a current thread that talks about an S13 vs. S14 swap. Do a search. IMO it seems like an incredible amount of work for a questionanble gain. I am not sure why people are so infatuated with this particular swap. You layed out your reasons pretty clearly. But a short nose diff has been done in an S30 numerous times. So the same drive train stuff you use with the 240 swap should work without taking the whole subframe. There are numerous rear disk conversion available for the S30 at considerably less than what you list price wise. But then I notice all of your prices on the 280 stuff are on the high side. And it seems pretty unfair to compare the price of a 280 set up with adjustable control arms to a fixed geometry 240 rear. What I would really like to see is some qualitative assesment of the benefits of this swap from someone who is actually running it. Does the SX rear improve or hurt the handling/performance aspects of the S30? Does it change the balance of the car when the new rear is combined with the old front? Maybe a hard assesment to judge fairly. But in my mind that would tell me whether all the work is worth it or not.

Funny thing is I got the impression that the ZX's were not competitive from and old JohnC post. Maybe I confused ZX with the 280. Did my own search. Here is the quote (post #11) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101932&highlight=competitive My bad. I remember those electromotive cars. But maybe an extreme example.

I thought women had a taint and men had a gooch?

They are still Z cars. Just not the type of Z car I want to own. Definitely a different emphasis. Heavy, softer ride, 1000X better looking interior. The early 240's didn't even offer a factory AC or automatic. Hard to argue ZX's weren't as well received. Nissan sold a lot more ZX's than Z's. If you look at SCCA racing and the like, the ZX didn't see anything close to the success of the Z. Like I said, different emphasis.

So I guess you are a big fan of the current generation of high tech, econobox push rod 4 bangers with their computers and modern materials?

Hate to bust your bubble, but even modern production car engines are low tech. What's the old saying? Yesterday's high tech is today's low tech. With the exception of the computers and maybe the metalurgy, there is not a lot of technology in that RB engine that didn't exist in the1940's. And where is this "beautiful classic mustang"??? I have seen better looking cars abandoned on the side of the road.

IMO if you are questioning whether you need a TIG or MIG, then you aren't doing enough welding to make the TIG cost effective. The opinion does not apply if you have more money than you know what to do with. In other words if you have to ask....

You mean Elton John with Boy George.....

Search for the article about ITS cages. Katman talked alot about it, then someone hosted it online. I don't have the link anymore. You don't want an ITS cage (since I belive they are for saftey and specifically preclude chassis stiffening), but the article did a very good job talking about the Z's weak points.

If I am following everything that is being said, wouldn't relocating the TC mount allow the Techno tuning part above to also retain the same geometry?

the early 240's had a hand choke, and right next to the hand choke lever in the center console is another slot for a manual idle level. I have always wondered what that slot was for or when it was actually used, because when I bought it my 12/70 240 has the slot with no lever. The choke lever has two cables hooked to it; one for the choke blade and a second that steps up the idle speed as the choke is applied. Would be interesting to hear from some of the guys with earlier 240's to see if they had a separate fast idle lever. Maybe zcarnut would know.

Maybe it is just this guys way of saying he doesn't want or need the work. I have run into that attitude with paint shops. They make all their money doing insurance collision repairs and don't want the uncertainty of a custom job. Try a different shop.

I know how you get such a dent. You leave the wax can on the top of the valve covers when you shut the hood. Ask me how I know this.

I actually fixed a dented tank on my Fiesta with an M80. The car rotated off a set of jack stands and settled one of the stands into the bottom of the tank. Took the tank off, rinsed it several times with water, then dropped the M80 in the fill hole. Worked perfectly. A dented corner might be more difficult since it is a high crown area. Maybe need 2 M80's.

Fram Tough Guard. $4.50 at Wally world Rated at 98.6% efficient at the 20 micron size according to the ISO 16889 test method (multi- pass efficiency). A higher efficiency rating than the Mobil 1 (96%) or the K & N filter at more than 3 to 6 times the cost BTW, someone did just what you said Mike and cut a whole bunch of filters apart and commented on the apparent quality of each. Don’t have the link, but IIRC he liked the Tough Guard. Not to be confused with the budget Fram Extra Guard at half the price, which the guy didn’t like. This study http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/ is a little better in that they also compare the filtering capability of each filter, where as the other guy did not. A $4.50 filter and 5 quarts of Shell dino oil from Costco at a buck a quart. That much more left for Jim…. Hey. If you guys really have a personal relationship with your vehicles, why not use these filters? http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm Isn't your car worth a $100 oil filter?

Sounds like a plan. The school's rep is more for a resume then any meaure of what you learned anyway.

Absolutely do not use heater hose. They won't hold up to the gas. if you smell gas with a full tank, then the hoses may be rotted. I wouldn't worry about the expansion tank not being connected to the engine, as long as the vent terminates outside the passengers compartment. Always wondered why they needed 3 separate vent lines on one tank. Thought maybe it had something to do when turning. Seems like plugging all but the one at the top of the tank should save some $$ on hoses. Good to know that fix works. My 70 was built without a charcoal cannister. The vent tank is plumbed to the intake manifold when the engine is running, and the crankcase when the engine is off.

http://www.jegs.com An online retailer of high performance auto parts. Like Summit.

Isn't the constitution great!!! I have gotten out of probably 3/4 of the tickets I have every gotten when the cop didn't show. It even works for parking tickets.

Don't know much about either of the Huston schools, but Texas A&M's EE department has a very positive reputation.