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Sanchez

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Sanchez last won the day on August 17

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About Sanchez

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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    Saint Louis

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  1. @AydinZ71 The go to people for electronics on the VQ swap is ZFever/Fever Racing in Tampa. They do a whole rewire of the stock harness from a 370Z/G37 making it plug and play into essentially any vehicle, but they specialize in Z’s new and old. The price is around $2200 which is definitely high, but when you consider that it includes a license for the ECU ROM and software (I believe they use ECUtek, $700 by itself) used for tuning that is necessary for the swap it makes a bit more sense as to why the price is what it is. There are a few other companies who offer a similar service at cheaper price but I have never heard of anybody using them in a build for a Z or if they even tune the ECU so those may be a gamble but could save a good chunk of money if somebody makes it work.
  2. I know that this topic is about the AE subframe and 8.8 swap, but TTT did just release their 8.8 complete rear end swap so now we can compare the two options. However, when I looked at the price for the TTT version it did nearly give me an aneurism. So as it stands for me the AE option is winning in the “not-costing-me-three-months-worth-of-paychecks-department” but I do like that the TTT version has bushings for a quieter street car.
  3. @AydinZ71 I started a build thread under the Member Projects subforum so you can check out the progress there if you wanna see where I’ve gotten in the past 7-8 months
  4. Continuing the floor pans, it’s going slow because of my time constraints and trying to go slow and learn. It sucks both my floor pans were beyond just patching up. Also an order from Tabco came in last week with my rockers, fender patches, lower door skins, and rear hatch slam plate. I don’t think my welds turned out too bad for my first time welding on metal this thin on an actual car. Question time for the experts: When you are welding over pitted metal like the area under the rear slam plate would you suggest priming it and then seam sealing really well around it, or should I get a tube of chemical weld and use it almost like bonds and skim it so there is less of a chance water can make its way in and sit there?
  5. That is one beautiful Z. A crossmember designed for VQ engines in the Z is something I have been looking at constantly since I landed on the VQ37 swap for mine. I would love to see some photos of the crossmember and if you plan on selling them I’ll be first in line to try it out!
  6. @Zumf20c How’s the engine and trans mounting going? Any pictures or updates about the McKinney mount kit?
  7. Started on the floor pans today, my toe board/kick panels up to the firewall and battery tray on the passenger side also needs new metal so I got to grab some 20ga sheet metal this week and shape that as well.
  8. @DuffyMahoney Thanks for the support! @TUME Yeah I'm not very happy with the quality of the welds now that I can see them, but I did have the work done in High School when I was very low on funds and mostly just needed the car to not rust out from under me. While the welds are not pretty, the shop did an excellent job hiding them and getting the body right with bondo (I know bondo should only be used for minor stuff, not to the degree it got used on my car). And it pretty much stopped the rust in those areas. That is what got me looking at the ZTrix Subtle Z rear fenders. I really like the original look of the Z's without flares and it comes with the bonus of slightly larger tires (to handle that sweet VQ torque) and save me from having to recut and reweld the lower portion of that panel and fill it all in to get the shape right (or spend the crazy amounts of money on a whole replacement rear quarter).
  9. Sandblasting Video Link (Shameless Channel Plug). I’m the one in the shirt that says “Shop Staff” and the horrible farmer’s tan at the end of the video: 240Z Sandblasting (The Cherry Garage) Photo dump as I start body work... I really hate drilling out spot welds... My passenger side rear quarter is dented pretty good and I found where dents were attempted to be pulled out. I’m thinking I may start looking seriously at the Subtle Z fiberglass rear quarters...
  10. QUICK UPDATE: Got the car sandblasted yesterday!!!! The company I went with is local here in St. Louis and did an excellent job using fine crushed glass. Took about 4 hours and there is no noticeable warping to the panels (I did skip getting the hood sandblasted because it is such a large flat panel I think it would have been impossible to avoid warping it). For those of you thinking of getting the car sandblasted and want to get the rear underside without a rotisserie the frame is so light that myself and 3 friends lifted the shell onto and off the trailer, and tilted the rear of the car up in the air and rested it on a frame made 2x6 wood. I was hoping maybe some of you could suggest a relatively good primer to use to keep the car from rusting while I do the body work. Something that I can body fill over before using a a highbuild primer primer before paint? Here are some quick photos, video update coming soon.
  11. @Zumf20c Don’t suppose there is any chance you would be willing to try and get some plans/blueprints drawn up of what you received for us VQ37 swappers to make them ourselves. If they don’t even come painted I find it hard to justify paying $700 dollars and waiting ~1 month to get some pretty basic welded steel.
  12. Sanchez

    VQ37 Swap

    @WailordUseBodySlam last time I talked to them about it was in December 2019. I may message them again and see what’s up with it. I don’t know if they plan on completely reworking the fabrication of the entire rear end swap or if they plan to base it off their current R200/230 swap.
  13. @zTrollop i was wondering if you ever figured out your steering issues?
  14. How long did it take to get those mounts from Speed SoCal. Its a bummer they don't come painted because you definitely don't want these pricey mounts rusting. Their engine mounts look a little small and stiff which would be good for a race car but for a comfortable ride for a street car I was wondering if the stock isolators from VQ37 would work. Do you think you'll stick with their's or try and fit the stock isolators?
  15. Sanchez

    '72 hatch

    My hatch is unfortunately a bit rusty and I am starting repairs on it. I'm in STL also and there is a guy called the Zman in Imperial, MO who is getting rid of his Z parts (he used to have a yard full of them). You should try and get a hold of him, you can find him easily by searching "datsun" or "240Z" in the STL craigslist.
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