Hyuri

It's possible to supercharge anything. Whether or not it's feasible, practical, or affordable is a completely different story. The simplest method for you, I'm guessing, would involve a pair of turbine-driven superchargers. Nissan even equipped an engine with just that setup which fits your car. More seriously, I have the feeling that you'd be blazing a new trail looking for a belt-driven supercharger on a VG30DE. And even if you aren't ... I don't want to do the searching.

Yep....

Actually, SeaFoam is an oil additive. Read the bottle/can: it says to pour some into the crankcase, some in the fuel, and suck the rest into the intake. I couldn't find a detachable hose that wouldn't kill it instantly, even with the throttle wedged to about 2k RPM, so I just dumped 2/3 of it into the gas (about 1/4 tank // ~5 gallons) and ran it empty. Haven't really noticed any differences, other than my oil coming out really nasty that change (ran it about 500 miles, which was probably too long) and some smelly exhaust. I also haven't taken the valve cover off since then, so I don't know what, if anything, it did in there.

Courtesy Nissan also (apparently) has them. CarFiche.com is an excellent, if occasionally illegible, way to find part numbers.

Last time I was in Lowe's, they had a drawer of corks and stoppers in the hardware aisle. Maybe get a couple of the rubber stoppers and trim them down/glue them in place? Just a thought.

Far as I know, CarFiche.com has never had an '83 manual. XenonS130.com, on the other hand, has all of them except the '83 owner's manual. Haven't noticed many differences between '82 and '83 FSMs though, other than moderate irrelevancies things like the turbo's T5 and the digital dash.

The obvious choice (to me at least) would be to call up your local GM dealership parts counter and ask them if they could order a replacement 6-speed manual for an '09 G8 GXP/CTS-V. Looking at the sticker prices of those cars, and their (lack of) age, I would strongly advise not looking too closely at the bottom line when you go to pay for your new transmission.

USPS, Fedex, UPS ... they all screw up. They all break packages, they all lose things, none of them has a properly functional tracking system. I and my family have had problems with all three, in about the same proportions, so now I just use whoever sounds cheapest and fastest at the moment. Usually USPS lately. I presume DHL is similar, but I've never dealt with them. Can't really speak either way.

Price point for parts - or any product - isn't "reasonable", it's "whatever the market will bear". As OEM outlets like dealerships have known for decades: look at the way they mark up high-demand vehicles. It's a credit to their generosity, and our benefit, that many suppliers of Z parts don't push to that point. Not something to expect or rely upon, however.

Ha! No, when I took 51 Dan told us they had to be in a car. If the car had to be towed in that was fine (the F-150 did), but it had to be in an otherwise-driveable car. You can ask him though. You'd have to either supply the parts or pay list price, plus $20 service fee per work order. I don't know why the automotive courses are filling up so fast lately. When I started they had like 10-15 openings in everything but 50, but the last semester I ended up in an ASL course because everything else had a waiting list. As busy as they've gotten lately, even the open labs had some trouble getting bay space. Sent you a PM with the tool list and a few recommendations about the class. Another one is: they are a lot of work, so you may not want to take 2 12-unit courses in the same semester unless you're some kind of mechanical savant. I was pretty burned out just taking 51 and 97 (engines and MVAC), so the next time I only took 57 (brakes and suspension) and an open lab. Skipped winter term entirely.

VVC? If so, don't worry about Dan - he'll probably tell you himself that his bark is worse than his bite, and he's right. It's a pretty easy class if you can balance "getting it right" vs. "doing it fast". I have a copy of Dan's tool list still; you can pretty much count on failing if you don't get all the tools signed off or if you lose the signed-off list. Make sure you team up early with people you can work with, as you'll probably be stuck with them all semester if you get lucky enough to get a full rebuild job. We only had one come in all semester, and it took all semester because in a 4-man team, I was the only one who showed up every day, ready to work. Took us about 11 weeks to rebuild a Ford 4.2 V6 with 2 blown headgaskets. Most of the class did a lot of timing chains/belts and water pumps, frequently on school cars. One guy got to do some carb work because he brought his own in. If you're going somewhere else, obviously, ignore all this. Except: have a set of good tools, and mark them with your name, last 4 of your social, whatever you prefer as a unique mark. Stamping, scribing, pick something (semi-)permanent.

It was a ghetto bolt-in (read: not "securely" mounted) for me. Didn't modify anything. Just used a bunch of washers and a new, longer bolt (I want to say 50mm) on the rear tunnel-side. The inner rail got clamped with washers, the outer got bolted straight through. The outer rear was spaced up about 1.25 inch, the inner rear about 5/8 inch. Play with the stack until the seats slides freely. Doesn't seem like it'd be real secure, but it's held up for over a year and hasn't budged at all. I plan to upgrade to a more "proper" mounting when I have the means, but this works fine for now.

Sounds a lot like my last "killer" problem. Eventually it reached the point where it wouldn't start because the plugs were so fouled up. My solution involved the cylinder head temperature sensor: it was dirty, and thus not working at all correctly. Buy/download an '83 FSM from somewhere (I suggest XenonS130.com) and get a cheap multimeter (Harbor Freight specials work fine), then go through the diagnostics in the EL and EF&EC sections of the manual. Get some electrical contact cleaner, dielectric grease, and fine sandpaper while you're at it: clean and grease anything you disconnect for a test.

Actually they do, but the only way to "open a case" is to buy the vehicle on eBay.

Hypereutectic cast pistons are more brittle, but they allow a tighter "cold" fit in the bore than regular forged pistons. They're harder (thus the "more brittle" bit), so they'll resist scuffing and other wear better; on the downside, that means that you're more likely to see block damage. I'd guess that your best bet for hypereutectic pistons would be to call up a manufacturer that makes custom slugs. Especially one that makes regular L28 pistons. Looking at the power and boost levels people have achieved here though, even with stock internals, I don't really see a need for them.

'76-'77 FSMs say 4.5-5.0 mm, '79-'83 FSMs say 4.0 mm. Others, I have not; I know not. If it's a ZX engine/trans, I'd go with 4.0.

A thread discussing this very issue could be found with a bit of a search here. I'd actually forgotten posting in that thread and did search.

Ground, fusible link, fuse box...? California DMV didn't even want to look at my car when I transferred the title, just needed to smog it.

I'd download a copy of the '79 FSM from XenonS130 and check out sections EC, EF, and ET. Page ET-10 would probably be the best starting point, as it has the vacuum diagrams. OTOH, if that's your manifold pictured, it may not as the manual only shows 2 small vacuum fittings on the throttle body and that TB seems to have 3. One should go through a tee to the distributor advance and the carbon canister, the other should go through the TVV etc. assuming it's a North American car. A Canadian model would have another tee in place of the BPT, the third side of which would lead to the air regulator at/near the connection for the FICD actuator. If any of those devices are missing, you're on your own: the emissions devices were almost completely different by '83, and I have a California model to boot.

Looks like that's supposed to connect through the TVV then BPT on its way to the EGR valve. Not sure though; I'm not too good at reading the FSM pictures without the real deal to compare with.

General rule I follow is: any driver exerting greater-than-normal force (impact gun, breaker bar, cheater pipe, etc.) requires impact-grade sockets. I also prefer them for torquing fasteners, when possible, for the same reason.

There's a series of articles at AutoSpeed that might be of interest as well: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3. They used a differential pressure gauge, but your dual MAP setup would probably work as well (caveat: calibration differences?).

First step: download a manual. PDF scans of the factory service manuals can be found at http://xenons130.com/reference.html. You're going to want to start with pages EL-65 and EL-66, wiring diagram and troubleshooting chart for rear and side lights. Interior... If it's a Z31, the seats are a good fit; see this post for specifics. I've heard that the hatch area trim from a Z31 will fit an S130, but the one time I tried at PnP, the rear panel (around the latch) didn't fit properly. None of the other panels looked remotely similar. Might try the center console, if yours is missing/damaged. Transmission is a pretty common swap, but you'll have to find a 280ZX or earlier: something with an L-series inline engine. Look at the ID plate under the hood, as there were both 4- and 6-cylinder Ls. Also be aware that earlier models are more likely to have a 4-speed. The other options involve adapter plates, which can be pretty spendy. Pretty much all the info you'll need is in the manual, with one exception: there's a plate between the crankshaft and flex plate on an auto, you'll need to remove that before you install the flywheel. Useful link. (Caveat: except the interior stuff, I've never needed to do any of this stuff. There are likely to be gaping holes and glaring errors, but it's still a starting point.) (Final note: the most important concept and most powerful tool on this forum is to search. Use Google. Try intentional misspellings. Go through all the results. Make your search more/less specific. Be aware of alternative names for parts. You will be graded on your search abilities. )

I think you're forgetting the gearing in the differential, which is still (I think) required. Calculate the torque at the transmission output, and that's what you should be comparing. Figure 203 ft-lbs (official output) at the flywheel for a stock L28ET, times 3.5 for a T5 in first, and you get ... 710.5 ft-lbs. But what if you don't have a T5? Now you're down to 621.6 or 674.2 ft-lbs. And that's peak torque on the L28, not starting torque. Still sound like a bad deal?

I prefer changing the oil warm, but I've never had a problem with getting oil all over myself since I learned one simple trick: keep constant, firm but not heavy, pressure on the plug as you unscrew it by hand. Do that until it's completely cleared the threads, then yank it away to the side: if you do it fast enough, your hands will stay completely dry.