Hyuri

According to my reading of Six_Shooter's explanation: the P79/dish combo would be forcing the charge towards the plug/valves, and the shape of the chamber would stir that up in such a way as to cause a more thorough mixture and prevent any area from stagnating. Still needs the quench area, doesn't need flat tops. Possibly even works better with dished pistons. Make sense to anyone? It's illustrated!

Have you checked all your sensors? Download the '83 FSM from xenons130.com and get a multimeter, pretty much all the sensor tests are continuity/resistance. Takes no more than an hour or two to check everything, and it'll completely eliminate the electrical system as a possibility. You can do a quick-n-dirty check at the sensors, but that won't tell you if there's a wiring problem. Do it properly and plug the meter in at the ECU plug. If you find a faulty sensor circuit, first check the sensor itself to eliminate a wiring fault. If the sensor fails, clean the sensor contacts (needle file, emery board, etc.) then check again. If that doesn't do it, try cleaning the other end of the sensor (fine sandpaper, contact cleaner, etc.). If cleaning just doesn't fix it, take your multimeter and the resistance specs with you when you pick up the replacement to make sure you don't get a dud.

If you spilled coolant on the outside of the manifold and got white "smoke" from the tailpipe, I'd be looking for an intake leak somewhere, which would definitely affect your idle.

I have '86 Z31 seats in my S130 and they weren't exactly bolt-in. The Z31 slider rails are about 3/4" further apart, so I wound up using washers to clamp the side of the tunnel-side rails. The rear also had to be spaced up to level out the seats, the outer a bit more than the inner rail (at the very least, you need to space the outside to straighten the sliders). I actually ran out of stud before I had the seats where I really wanted them. By preference I'd have lowered the front, but that's not really possible without some fab work. There's a bit of interference with the lower seat belt mount at the seat hinge which on the driver's side prevents the (power) seat from going all the way back, but my legs are short enough that isn't a problem. Biggest problem for me is that the original rear studs place the seat too far back, as the Z31 sliders aren't as long as the S130 ones. Also, for anyone considering this: the Z31 seat belt buckles will latch onto the S130 belt. They will not hold the belt. Ask me how I know this. Summary: only 1 rail will bolt directly on, spacers are required, transplant your original belt buckles, watch for interference with the seat belt if you have long legs.

Far as I know the only differences were the clutch diameter and driveshaft, i.e. external stuff. The '82 FSM I have (xenons130.com) kinda backs this up, as it only lists the FS5W71B manual transmission, and only one set of specs (gear ratios, tooth counts, clearances, etc.) for it.

Eh, just FYI I found the wiring diagrams for the stereo on FSM pages: '79: BE-74 '80: EL-82 '81: EL-91, EL-92 '82: EL-102, EL-103 '83: EL-106, EL-107

Just as a note: Daewoo didn't go out of business, they just started selling them under other marques (Chevy Aveo; Pontiac Wave; Suzuki Swift+, Forenza, Reno, and Verona in the US). As for your question: beats me. Off the cuff, I'd say it's a bad idea, but I have nothing to back that up besides a gut feeling.

Just ran into this one today: cylinder head temp sensor "went bad", i.e. was reading 7k+ ohms at 90+F ambient, super-rich, fouled plugs, etc.. Cleaned up the pins, same; got out some 800 grit and polished up the sensor end and it suddenly started working fine. Oddly, now my injectors aren't clicking really loud like they used to - they aren't audible at all. Really messed up my shifting. Tip: never underestimate the power of cleaning a part, even if it seems like it shouldn't affect anything.

They're much better-looking in person, believe me. My neighbor used to have one of those in his carport. He invited me over to look at it after striking up a conversation while I was doing the brakes on my Z in the driveway. It's been a year or so, and he (and the car) disappeared a few months back (I think he died ), but I think he had a 427 in it. I know he had a TH400, which I recognized since I had one apart in the garage at the time, and I was very surprised that there was no real driveshaft - just a single U-joint. He did mention having chopped out a few inches in the middle, and he'd glassed the doors shut, and then told me that he was now very unhappy having done so because in a conversation with a former Thomas employee (Don Edmunds?), they'd become fairly strongly convinced that his now heavily-modified car was an original (fiberglass) Cheetah.

I got my ZX home after it had sat in the school shop yard for over a year (PO couldn't find a transmission) with about 1/4 tank and it fired right up once I got it put back together. On the other hand, I have a Toyota in the garage that sat for a few months and the gas was worthless. Really, you never know until you test it.

Is the dragging coming from your brakes? If so, there's something wrong: disk brakes shouldn't have any contact when they aren't applied. Have you inspected for warpage and glazing? Other than "inspect everything", I can only suggest getting a FSM (http://xenons130.com/reference.html) and checking out the troubleshooting table.

Unfortunately, there appear to be certain other errors as well. Sorry, Scottie!

You're absolutely right. I can only plead lack of sleep for that mistake.

It has a AFM sensor with an IAT sensor in it, the 81 ZXT has an external CAS on the front of the block while the 82-83 ZXT have an optical sensor and trigger wheel in the distributor, and the stock boost is around 7 lbf/in². All of this is information I have found by searching the site, which you would be wise to make your first (and second, and third, and fourth...) step in the future. Hell, I can't remember the last time I actually posted, since searching has answered all my questions!

My doors rattle (also an 83 ZX), but it's because the rubber sleeves on the latch posts are gone and my weatherstripping is shot. You might start by checking those out. My car rattles because all the other rubber is just as shot. I'm constantly surprised that I still have T/C rod bushings. You might want to continue by getting it up on a lift or jackstands and checking all the articulation/mounting points and all the bolts you can find.

According to the ad he's selling ITM pistons now, not Nakamoto. Which is as a couple of people reported in this thread from last year - same seller, even.

The only real problem I've had with my ECS board is that it keeps blowing capacitors. Not an insurmountable problem if you have a supply of the right type available (old motherboards = lots of caps) and can handle moderately fine (de)soldering work.

The brown links are actually 0.3mm^2, not 0.69mm^2, so I doubt they carry as much as 50A. I would venture to guess that they're around 20A.

I went through most of the electrical connections under the hood with these (you could use an emory board or nail file) and it cleared up a bunch of stuff. Used to idle all over the place, had a hiccup at around 3k RPM, power used to drop off substantially above about 3600, temp gauge went in and out; all gone now. The injector contacts were especially nasty, but the temp sensor contacts were pretty dirty too.

The only engine options I'm aware of for US-spec E9x Corollas were 4A-F(E) and 4A-GE, all of which were DOHC. You may be confused by the fact that the 4A-F motors had a single cam sprocket: the intake cam was driven by the exhaust cam via internal gears (picture towards the bottom here). The 4A, 4A-C, and 4A-E were SOHC, but only had 8 valves.

You're in Apple Valley? Check out the PnP on Gasline in Adelanto. They've always had a few Zs when I've been there; last time I found a complete '73 240z, drivetrain and interior and all. Even had some new/bagged parts stuffed in odd places. They run wheelbarrows for $150 + cores, the only real problem is getting them up the hill at the gate (take some friends).

A quick Google spat out this thread. Also: have some shots of a (guaranteed!) '83 5-speed tail. I'm pretty sure an '82 would look like this.

The Black Dragon kits apparently only cover 70-76 cars. And for $440, I'd be looking elsewhere anyway.

You can try this mod, but I don't know that anyone has actually done it on a street vehicle. If you do try it, I would strongly suggest getting a spare dash to try it on so that if it doesn't work you still have a good one. The other options are to find a '79 analog instrument cluster and swap it in, or any analog cluster and use aftermarket gauges. The downside is losing that cool '80s digital dash; the upside is getting a higher speedo and a much better tach that actually shows when you're at 6k instead of "6k +/- 500, roughly, maybe".

The 82 FSM lists 195/70HR14, 205/70R14, and 205/60R15 as normal sizes. IIRC, only the turbos came with 15-inchers, so you "should" be using 195/70 or 205/70 tires. My stock wheels are wearing 205/70R14 and looking just fine to me, aside from the actual condition of the tires....