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josh817

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Everything posted by josh817

  1. Ah yes I forgot in Texas, the vehicle is your private property under your protection, even if its parked on public property. I believe the bill says you can carry without a CHL only in a car that you own or control. AKA you can't carry, while you're in your buddies car. Makes sense. I guess a CHL is same thing as CCW and it only applies for if you are carrying it on you? I already figured next year I'll make a road trip to Utah and get my license, check out the national parks and such. This is about the guns though. You were saying you're Glock was a bit much and I can see how the revolver grips help "roll" the recoil. I'll have to see.
  2. Not old enough to carry but soon. Every time I go to wave flags for a club race I meet a lot of strange characters. It's become a regular occurrence to have most of them toss out a bunch of **** and claim its true. What I'm getting at is one dude said you don't need a license to carry as long as it's in sight. Just last weekend another dude said you don't need a license to carry but only if it's in your car out of sight and you are traveling. The second guy carries some truth but not 100%. Indeed you are allowed to carry a weapon in your vehicle without a CHL only if it is unloaded, out of sight, and if you are traveling somewhere to use it like a gun range or gun show. Back in the 80's/90's you were allowed to carry a gun with you in a car without a CHL (this was before CHL's) only if it was out of sight and if you crossed over more than one county line. Therefore, my father legally carried his .45 with him since he traveled from Burleson to Fort Worth everyday for work. The traveling rule was superseded by CHL's. The point that I'm getting at is here in Arlington I don't feel safe all the time. My girlfriend goes to get gas or throws out the trash and she has these dudes clapping and whistling at her. I would too... Anyway, I figure its a good idea if to get something if I plan to hang around here. I already have a measly .22 rifle in the apartment but even in an instance where someone is breaking into my car, I don't think I would take it outside. I run through the situation in my head and where the legal boundaries are. I argued with the stubborn worker this weekend because he kept on urging me to purchase something and to carry if I'm so worried. I explained to him that campus rules wouldn't even allow me to carry in their parking lot, where a lot of crime occurs in the first place and also if I'm not of age then I'm legally screwed. The way he put it was you can shoot the person, and good luck finding 12 people to all agree that I'm guilty, or you could be dead. Regardless, I can manage to wait a year and get a CHL rather than illegally carry a firearm. Shooting a gun is efficient but there are other ways to defend yourself. Of course that is IF anything were to happen at all from now until next year. EDIT: Oh and one more thing because I just saw you guys mentioned accuracy. I'm not one of those guys that needs a gun to be accurate. I mean you can throw all sorts of crazy situations at me but I still feel like the fact of the matter is if I'm shooting at something, its going to be right in front of me. So my buddies argument of a super-duper Glock or whatever can shoot 100 yards... I don't know I'm just making these numbers up... is pointless to me when the target is within 25 yards. I think that general logic also phases out the "hitting power" of a round when you consider the subject is so close to you, any round above 9mm should do. Contrary to my desire for the GI framed 1911, a shorter barrel would work well. Rock Island Armory had some decent .45's. People bash the quality and how the clearances aren't tight, not the best accuracy, typical GI sights (not much of a sight), but once again, I'm not shooting at something and eighth of a mile away.
  3. Well... someone has been in the technical sections too long. That's why this section is here, doesn't have to be technical Z stuff. Mind you, lets not get too strung up in whether or not guns should be allowed or not, that would be political talk which forum rules do not permit... as well as your non-capitalized letters and misspelled words if we REALLY wanted to get technical.
  4. I've shot my fathers Gold Cup National Match and it was alright as well as a some sort of Springfield 9mm my brother in law has. I sucked at shooting both but then again I don't have any experience with them. 1 mag through each gun for the first time, it was all over the place. I've never handled a revolver but the grip doesn't look comfortable. I also strongly agree with you Doc Hawk. Wikipedia, for what it's worth, actually says there is a certain 9mm round that hits with the same energy as a .45 and even if it doesn't the argument is like you said, moot, considering the 1/4" less expansion. I feel like I'd be more comfortable with a 1911 however its size may be a problem to carry. I also like the 9mm and .45's because they have .22LR slide conversions so you can have fun at the range and not go broke. I guess I'll have to go to our local range and rent out a revolver.
  5. Alright simply put, I like the 1911 but I like the .357 Magnum. Would be a carry gun. Revolver is nice and reliable, leaves no witnesses, double action, and not to mention the .357 magnum with a hot load should hit harder. Bad thing is that the most I've seen in a revolver for .357 was 7 rounds, the person it's aiming at can see whether or not it's loaded. The 1911 is bigger (because I like the GI size), holds 8 rounds but I can find a wide body that holds 14, just more to carry... Pro's and con's of the two? I figure why do I need 8-14 rounds. It should only take one or two shots to get someone down. The same idea applies to hitting power, I would think. .357 magnum hits 200 ftlbs harder. Sigh.
  6. I'm not sure... I don't have a need for welding just yet. We discussed a roll cage or something and then on this intake system I got, I'd like to weld on a throttle linkage. Still have to work that out currently. I'm figuring a trade may be better than trying to sell. Not sure. Just a thought.
  7. Out of warranty by a month. When I read over the class action law suit it listed the computer that weren't included, the DV7 wasn't on there so I signed up for it. I was probably looking at one against HP and not Nvidia. That sucks that the computer market is such... crap. The way I viewed it was an $1100 computer (at that time, its probably just under $1000 now) that needs a GPU reflow and an OS. -GPU reflow = $120ish + shipping -OS = Under $100 for student version If I ask $400 and you add those things you're getting a nice computer for under $700 without a warranty. I've never been a big warranty fan, so to me a warranty isn't worth $200. Oh well. I have to realize computers aren't anything like guns. Depreciated value sucks. lol And Tony, again, you already called me out for goat porn. Is that not a good enough reason to be suspicious?! My paranoia doesn't stem from activities that are highly confidential or illegal, it stems from my mother who is paranoid about everything. She will shred.... everything. I personally always found it helpful to give my pet hamster the paper when I was little. CSI can't even piece together that! Hey Nick, again, you want a the laptop in trade for welding?
  8. Screen isn't busted, the graphics card soldering points are messed up because it got too hot. In my dead computer thread, someone posted a link to youtube with a guy showing how to fix it. Basically you take apart the computer and heat the graphics card chip thing up to 210º so the soldering points make better contact. I can try this myself or that guy does it for $120 or something. That's why I can't plug a monitor in, because the graphics card is funky right now. For the $120, the guy also installs a better heat sink too I think, or maybe it was an extra fee for that. Anyway it's either I try to do it and maybe kill it or have the next owner try to do it themselves or send it to that guy. Otherwise you have to replace the whole motherboard which is like $250 for the cheapest one I saw. $300 is the normal price.
  9. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOyjmppAMI4
  10. I'm just paranoid.... Not about all my porn being recovered but I have school documents, money information, contacts, etc. Of course these files are locked multiple times over but if a brainy dude gets the computer then ruhroh. I'll just clear the whole thing out. I used Eraser but broke down to delete it only 10 times over rather than 35 since it took so long. Left it running this weekend while I did a Porsche Club event. I'm all Porsche'd out. I don't want to see another one within the next month or I'll puke. I'm just going to wing it and delete all the I drive stuff. If the recovery partition doesn't do whatever it's suppose to do then I'll clear that too and as all you guys have stated, install your own OS. Really it's just me trying to penny pinch. $1100 laptop (my only graduation gift) dies after a year when its suppose to last at least 4... I had to buy another computer so I'm trying to rebound the cost of this desktop setup ($700). I'm hoping maybe $400-$500 for this laptop. I can take a $200 hit. And Tony, don't be talking about my porn, you turkey: Hahahahahahaahaha I don't want people to see the ridiculous movies I watch. There's a Z car in this one:
  11. Considered a magnet. My buddy did that all the time... I guess I should go with what you said Nick. Windows 7 student version should be pretty cheap. I was stupid enough not to make a recovery disk. I've gotten everything personal however if there is anything in the registry, that's still there. Also programs like Microsoft Office are on there so obviously I don't want people using my purchased version. Nick....... you wanna trade work, such as welding, for computer... I'm curious if there is some way to make a recovery disk for this hard drive while its plugged into the desktop, and use the desktops DVD burner.
  12. Ehhh its a hard drive from a DV7 1285DX, and that computer has a SATA port on the side so I guess that's what it is. Looking to keep the computer complete though. The program I have is "Eraser" supposedly deletes it 35 times over. Takes forever.
  13. Alright so as some of you read, my laptop took a dump on me. Screen went out. I'd like to sell it so I obviously need to clear the hard drive of all the por-.... I mean Datsun stuff. So I have the program that deletes things multiple times so it can't come back. I took the hard drive out of the laptop and plugged it into the desktop. This is what I see: In red is the hard drive, which is split for a recovery partition. Here's my question, how can I delete everything so there is no trace of personal information, while maintaining the Windows operating system so whoever gets the computer will be able to boot it up like it would straight from the store? As of right now I'm deleting everything that I know I added to it (Program Files >>> games, etc) but I know for a fact that programs like AIM and user log ins and passwords are saved in the registry. I'm tempted to just delete everything off the one partition ("I" drive) and then see if the Recovery partition has Windows on it. When I open the Recovery, it has nothing in it so they must be hidden files or something that can only be used with the BIOS? The only thing stopping me is the usual Windows folder in the I drive. There are also factory programs in the Program Files folder: On my old computer I would be able to hit F11 to get into the BIOS and reformat. Obviously since the laptop screen/graphics card is dead, I can't see anything even if I plug another monitor in. So with all that in mind, is there any way I can reformat this hard drive back to factory specs while its plugged in (USB) to my desktop (essentially acting like an external hard drive)?
  14. Nick I need your computer help.
  15. I don't want to be a butthole or anything but this wasn't about higher compression, it was about whether or not a chain link can be removed reliably. Sounds like we have a lot of hearsay about the topic. This is something that I don't want to try out personally... lol if it goes bad, it'll get real hairy real fast. I think I have an old chain at home. I'll have to check this weekend.
  16. I'm considering because I'm planning on doing an L28 crank with my L24 rods along with 89mm pistons. Upon crunching the numbers, a wrist pin height like the KA24 of 34mm will yield around 9:1, I'd like to get into the 11:1-ish area. Since they will be forged I suppose I could say get a larger wrist pin height, which I plan on doing. However in the event that I can't do that, I'll deck the block. Worst case scenario would be having to deck the block, head is already shaved, and then lobe bases on the cam ground down. That's a lot of slack so instead of buying a Kameari idler gear and trying to shim it all, removing a chain link could be an easier route. Which is why I'm asking......... I'll need to CC my head one of these days. When disassembling it there were shims so I don't know if it had been cut or if the block was cut. I'd also like to install 46mm intake seats and 38mm exhaust, but I'm still pondering. Don't know if that idea will kill performance or not. Tony already knows I'll be going to fuel injection and he stated that a smaller port will be best for the velocity, I think. Huge ports would be best suited for carbs since they're restrictive. I'd like to do what Monzter did and use the big seats but a smaller valve. He too is running FI. I'll pick his brains soon enough.
  17. I've been thinking about the slack in the cam chain when milling a head/block and I got to the point where if you milled enough the cam and cam tower would be shimmed up so high that you would have to get a longer valve stem to get back to a regular lash pad size. In turn you would have to shim up the valve springs. This problem would get worse if you use a reground cam where the lobe base is ground in to increase lift... Solutions? Obviously shimming will work to a certain extent. Or you could do something like Kameari where you adjust the slack and will work for up to 3mm of head shaving. You could combine the two, shim and Kameari idler gear type thing. But then I was thinking. Is it realistic to break the chain and remove a link? I know we have that tool somewhere around here and use to use it on our Emmick carts but those were single row chains. I know my first thought is "you won't be able to time it properly without the proper amount of links" but I never used the links to time my cam. Aftermarket cams may not follow that timing anyway. So I was curious, has anyone successfully removed a link in the chain to remove a lot of slack? 1 link is a lot of millimeters of slack needing to be fixed when I think about it...
  18. I always went about with the logic of above 10:1, start running 93 or more octane.... AKA I wouldn't go about more than 10:1 on the street... In fact that is what I should be at now with a .6mm HG, KA24 dished pistons and a P90 head, doing 35º of advance on regular pump (83 octane or something?). Haven't heard any marbles yet.
  19. Lol this must have been on 4chan lately because in encyclopediadramatica.com when you type in Cooks Source it brings you to the plagiarism page. I had a hunch when on the Facebook page someone said "MOAR!!"
  20. Yes but like I said I don't want any of us to buy parts that aren't within spec. I wouldn't want to use a rod that's too narrow. :/
  21. Lol I lurk around all the time... Firefox lets you view page info and page source, for your creep/stalker needs. I tend to download and then upload images so I don't hotlink images and eat their bandwidth up every time someone views the thread.
  22. I'm running the same ones that Cygnus is using. I could have sworn when I was grinding on the intake that it had a balance pipe... The thought of "I hope metal shavings don't get stuck in there and get sucked into the motor" kept going through my head... I'll check my pictures. Damnit not enough angle!
  23. Like Cygnus said, use anti vibration mounts. They're like... 1/2" thick. Then I'd say why not just do some grinding on the manifold without breaking into the threaded hole? Don't worry about cold starts. DCOE's have accelerator pumps. Just work the throttle a little with the fuel pump on. Here in Texas, coldest weather we've had maybe in the teens. I've never, ever, EVER had a problem starting, so long as you pump the pedal a couple of times first. My problem is actually in the heat of summer when I've been driving for maybe 30 minutes. Stop for gas and then I have to wrestle it to get started again. I don't know if its a big deal for Datsun's but one problem I see you may have is the fact that there is no balance pipe on your manifold, like Cygnus has on his Cannon. Balances the vacuum from all the runners so your brake booster and dizzy vacuum advance will work rather than pulling from one cylinder. I could only see a problem if you run a stupendous cam...
  24. How depressing. Link = right click on photo >>> properties >>> url for photo >>> cut off unwanted bits >>> ???? >>> win: http://www.as-watanabe.com under the "works" tab.
  25. I found the same thing but for an L24 rod and twice the cost in Australia.... Its sketchy because its cheap and it looks like they just copied and pasted the Corillo rod specs onto the auction. Whats this about being to narrow. Definitely don't want any of us buying something that won't work.
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