josh817

Too lazy to call lol. I wanted to know the answer that night, not wait until Monday.

I know what you mean. Once my $50 crappy tires seemed to be cooperating with me and I was getting use to the what it felt like to get loose and stuff, it started getting fun. Two laps later and my brakes were getting unpredictable. After they were gone I came in and a dude gave me a ride in his Evo I think it was with the paddle box and Brembo brakes and thats when I felt what good brakes were suppose to feel like. Stopping distance for me lets say was at the 300 marker, his was at the 100 or less, going quicker in a heavier car.

Oh trust me I was trying everything I could to stop the car. Coming in way too hot and then your brakes are dead and its just like.... FUUUUUUUUUU. I have a feeling when I take the wheels off tomorrow and check the drums, one or two of them are going to have very little to no pad left. The front rotors are already chewed to smithereens. They look like really crappy records, Kris Kristopherson records.

True that. I went to a track a week or two ago. I'm not particularly fast but there were some long straights where I was seeing 120+mph and then hard on brakes. Whatever pads I had, probably nothing fancy, they died after 20 minutes. Use proper pads and proper brake fluid and it will work out. I killed pads and fluid got too hot. The consequences were when I put a lot of pressure on the pedal, I couldn't lock up the brakes at all and it felt spongy. After 20 minutes you could smell them and the pedal went all the way to the floor. I had to wait 3 hours until I got a little pressure back so I could drive home, however the pedal is still very very light. So... proper fluid and pads and maybe some ducting to the front brakes, I bet it would work out well for what its worth.

Hey guys just registered my Z as an antique and what I received was a little metal plate thing, a windshield sticker, and then a smaller sticker. I was told the smaller sticker goes onto my license plate. I thought I would get antique plates but apparently they allow me to keep my classic '72 plates. I don't know what to do with this little metal plate/tab/plaque looking thing though. Its about 1" tall and 2" wide with a hole in the top. What is this for?

Our intake entrances match. I'll need to look into on the flow numbers of my head. Perhaps I have a gem. I was thinking "meh its ported but we don't know if it flows well". I'm not going to get my hopes up just yet.

I don't like that you have that. LOL Can you measure the entrance to the intake and exhaust ports. Whats the diameter of the intake and then whats the height and width of the exhaust port square. I've got a head I just bought but don't know if its mildly ported or outrageously ported. Thanks!

The green car is running 50 or 55mm carbies. Probably Solex. You can get away with 45's and they won't be "too much", since you can choke them down substantially. If you used a small cam, I'd sell the 45's and invest in 40's so you have some extra cash. If you find yourself using like a 34-36mm choke in a 45mm carb then I would get down to a 40mm carb body. I bet the increased velocity would help the torque at the lower end, with a smaller cam. Curious about the dynamic compression ratio since I'm building another motor also! I assume lower RPM's work fine and its not until higher RPM's that you would ping, as your compression raises from valve events, and ignition timing increasing?

Hahahahahaha I'm dumb. It was fun and it seemed like I was going quick but I was probably as boring to watch as a formula vee... $50 tires and brakes that are who knows how old don't work. Tires felt like I was driving on ice when trying to corner quickly and the brakes had faded and were gone completely (to the floor completely) by 25 minutes. I pulled in, we had lunch, looked at brakes. Both rotors are chewed but the right one is really funky. The drums I don't even want to know. Motor ran fine, no knocks, high water temp., or low oil pressure. I didn't go back out after that so I mingled with one of the members and he gave me a ride in his car. His Evo wasn't like... stupendously quicker than the Z in the straights but he braked wayyyy later and went so much faster through the turns. Drove back to Keller gingerly with soggy brakes. Its ok though, I have new brakes ready to go on. I'm "excited" to see what sort of torture these stock ones endured. I'll have video later. Its boring though. Looks like I'm going slower then a fart, because I am. Top speed was like 120mph, says the sketchy speedometer. Oh yah and the best part is when I went to tell the track owner bye and thanks for having me she said she'd write my name down and let me come back to another members day since I didn't get much time in today.

Well FINE I'll go to the track myself! Pft.

Where the hell is everyone else? I thought other people would take advantage of the track time rather then a dyno. Well, its tomorrow. Maybe they'll still let people come. Apparently there are 3 members signed up for tomorrow. I wonder what they're driving.

Note to business owners: When having an event, be sure to answer your phones in the morning. This way people like Josh can call before they make the hour and a half drive there, to see if the event is still on. I get there and the dude is like uhhh she'll give you a rain check for tomorrow when its nice out. Which I don't think is a bad idea, just annoyed that I found that out when I got there.

I may go up a little higher for 2 to 3 because there is a big hole there. I refuse to use 1st gear too rough and I doubt I will use it at all. I can see the hairpins doing 2nd. 3 to 4 isn't that bad, 4 to 5 is annoyingly close.

Hah so I'm going to Eagles Canyon Raceway tomorrow. I signed up for it earlier today and the lady told me no Z guys signed up for the event and no members are coming out either so its like... I'm there all by my lonesome unless if someone decides to show up or if the track owner brings out one of her Ferrari's or Vettes. Trying to decide what RPM I should bring it up to. I only have 40mm DCOE's, no fancy front damper, and a Schneider "stage 4" cam grind so I think I'll keep it around 6000-6500. I went for a test drive tonight and the when shifting at high RPM's (6500-7000) the tranny kinda grinds slightly, like a cherp, but still shifts. Its a '77 tranny where 4th and 5th are close together, don't know if that tranny has **** synchros or something. I need to be able to drive the car an hour back home at least so... Anyway wish me luck, I'll take some video and post a lap or two if I'm all by myself.

I'm not feeling so. I should make a thread and see who is going where. I don't want to be a lonely dude at the track. If you guys are going and I have someone to play with then it will be fun. Still worried the car isn't up to par though. Stock everything except for motor, trans, and rear end so... brakes, will they survive? Should I do it? I'm confused. I'm just a little pissed because my dad said he is too busy to come. Little things like this event, going to the gun show, going to Cabella's, all three he has bailed on me. Ironically, he had enough time to go with my step mom and step brother to sea world for 3 or 4 days, which is a big deal considering he works an hourly pay and not a salary. Every day he "takes off" from work is a day he won't make money so somehow he can afford 4 days off but not a few hours on a Saturday. Typical of course. Anyway if its raining or wet out, I won't go and if I there aren't many Z guys going, I won't go. So... Big Phil, are you attending? How about you Bloz up? There is a dyno thing going on at the same time as the track event so I wonder who will pick dyno over track event.

Thats what I always thought it was. I knew it would make your hot side turn.... pretty hot... glow hot, which hurts the turbo eventually and thats how **** breaks? Oh and nevermind about the track day Big Phil. My dad decided he doesn't have enough time for a single freaking event. Probably for the best, I don't want to break anything...

Put me to shame. I am sad. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrKfJHMzp-M Big Phil are you participating in the Z Party thing? Saturday, is the dyno calling you or the track day? My dad says I need seat time so I guess I'm doing Eagles Canyon. Maybe I'll see you there this weekend!

Hey guys my dad and I are going back to work on this BMW 1602 to get it track ready. CVAR student/license/school things are only held February and September so we're most likely pushing for next Sept. The idea of me using my Z car as a my ride is kinda neat but I'd have to buy at least $1000 in safety stuff. I have the money but I'm not prepared to drop it on several big purchases yet.. Anyway we're looking for B-sedan rules in the a '72 GCR. For some reason the copy we have doesn't have the BMW 2002 in it. If anyone has a copy and can scan any pages concerning B-sedan, that would be great! ***Please note we have a BMW 1602 however we are choosing to run it as a BMW 2002 (just use the 2L motor). My dad keeps freaking out over this 1.15 x displacement = required weight formula. Problem is, BMW 2002 from the factory, didn't even weigh that much (2300 pounds!) Also note, the BMW's in CVAR are scary... Not only do they spank the 510's, they also make the 240z work hard. Sigh.

Uh I think the same "don't mix and match" thing applies even if they are resurfaced. What I'm trying to say is that if you resurface the rockers, that wear pattern which matches the cam lobe supposedly, will now be gone. So you're putting a clean slate in while the cam isn't so... "clean", if that makes sense. Another words I would assume you would have to get your cam polished if you resurfaced. Cam/Lobe used/used = ok new/used = not ok used/new = not ok New would mean resurfaced, polished, or flat out brand new. Used, obviously this would mean used within the same motor, matched sets, so I can't get buy a used cam and then mix it with rockers I already had. Although I'd like to disagree with the no mix matching thing, I don't have any first hand experience concerning whether or not lobes go flat or rocker surfaces get chewed up. When I think about it though, I believe I used rocker arms from a spare head with a new cam, and have not had any catastrophe... knock on wood. My luck is probably coming to an end. I've put maybe at most 7000-8000 miles on the motor.

If you stalk Courtesy Nissan, every once in a while they will get Nismo HG's. I got a 90mmx.6mm one... its weird. It was about $150. For that price, my next gasket will be copper. My dad and I go to some dude who stamps them out so as long as you have a regular cheap stock gasket or an old used one, you give it to him and tell him how thick you want it. Comes out to be $125-ish. I'll see if I can get the name of the place for you.

That day will make me sad. :[ I plan on keeping my Z forever and ever but I fear that of course when something needs repair or replacement I won't be able to afford it. I think of my Z kinda like a gun. An investment where hopefully the value of it will either stay the same or steadily rise. Hopefully...

So I've been playing around with GTR 2 and I've been driving the Lister car. My problem is that I have the difficulty at 95% with full realism except for tire wear and fuel consumption because I'm trying to find a setup that's stable before I throw in other factors. My typical problem, and I'm sure other peoples problem, is that my quickest setup is of course the most radical so tires are kaput in a few laps. For this thread I'd like to ignore tire wear and stuff. At 95% during practice and qualifying I'm sitting at a 1:59.050 time on the Brno GP 2004 track, and am placing around 5th. I don't really like being at 95% and only placing 5th. I keep feeling like my go is understeering. How do I know if I'm understeering or just going too fast? I have my front sway bar as high as it can go, running soft tires on the front and then I tried to reduce the understeer by stiffening up the rear to make it swing out easier I guess you could say, and using the mild tires. Another problem I have always exhibited with any racing game is I run what I would think, inconsistent laps. 1:59 may be my best time but I would do 2:00-2:02 regularly so its all over the place... By the way fastest lap for this track the computer says is a 1:56.... I'm slow. I know you guys like to play these sorts of games, don't let me down! Lol

Lol Tony you leave us shrouded in mystery all the time. I'm curious about the flywheel and clutch setup. Some are running multidisk but some are also running single disk, all are extremely light. I was just going to go with Quartermaster or 10000RPM system. Expensive, but long term project, so I try to ignore the sum total and focus more on individual purchases.

Lol I didn't bother to look at it more closely. No wonder it didn't make sense to me why they would weld on a flange that had a large amount of weight spinning from it. Could you explain further Tony, I don't think I'm getting it... or is it as simple as locating the flywheel on the flange and not letting it "waggle". In that case, wouldn't the locating pins/installing more locating pins do that too or are they meant only to protect the flywheel bolts from shearing? For a properly balanced flywheel I assume the welded pilot doesn't play a very important role? As for an in depth look, I had a link going to BHJ Dynamics. I think that may explain it well. It kind of makes sense to me.... vaguely... As I said I believe it fixes the harmonics issue. MonzterZ, the guy I mentioned earlier and I think he posted in here, had a crank snap on him I think, plus I have that one picture I think I showed too... Link: http://www.bhjdynamics.com/downloads/pdf/tech/BHJDynamics_Damper_Info.pdf Picture: My last question is if you're going to buy the nice flywheel and clutch setup, the ones that are multidisked and the entire setup is like 10 pounds, does that get balanced with all your other rotating masses or does the $1200 get you bolt on flywheel+clutch setup? Just out of curiosity.

I guess I'll be the one to cue the music since no one else will. Did you listen to this while you did your thing?