josh817

Make bets to see how high the snow can accumulate on the patio railing?

Lol I had a hunch I was wrong, thanks for correcting Ray. I still had some pretty horrible experiences with trying to store things using WD40. Probably the hot humid summer week in Texas. Never had a problem with lubing everything liberally with regular motor oil and put a trash bag or engine bag over it. I guess any oil will do, just something to keep moisture off.

I love snow! I like shoveling it too....... You think I'm joking but I'm not. The first thing I would do if I was your son and told to shovel a path is make a maze in the snow so it takes you an hour to figure out how to get 6 feet to the car. Where you live looks nice, especially with the snow! Got that wood stove fired up? I bet its real nice. Picturesque to me, really.

I wouldn't use WD-40... I remember sanding down a BMW hood and coated it with WD-40, a week later it was all surface rusted. WD-40 is actually a degreaser, I think. I remember seeing something like someone was trying to preserve a rear end so they filled with WD-40 and it got pretty messed up. What I did on mine was just get typical motor oil and wipe down everything. At our shop we have a squirt bottle with whatever type of oil, anything from motor oil to Marvel Mystery Oil. Squirt some of that good stuff on a lint free cloth or on your hand and go from there.... Sounds kind of dirty. I think a Scotch Brite pad would do well, like STP said. It shouldn't be rough/hard enough to scratch the surface.

How much did you spend for cryo treating if you don't mind me asking?

Kinsler is selling a slanted manifold like that last time I checked from their "garage sale". I opted for the straight runners so I wouldn't have to worry about hood clearance. $225 very bottom: http://www.kinsler.com/page--Garage-Sale--29.html So I'm guessing that's manifold you have, Tony? Interesting that they have that angled injector bung or whatever cast into them! Mine doesn't have that. I guess they meant for you to use a 90º injector with it. Unfortunately with the vintage club I deal with, even if I showed proof of MFI or EFI being used, they would allow it only if I use THAT system rather than an interpretation of it with a different manifold and ECU but essentially the same thing. Very anal about it, over here! I can't afford to race anyway. I love the historic pictures!

I picked up one of those just for grins: That's Mr. Don Potters widow. I bought a lot of stuff from her.

Some one tried to use the injector cooler blower thing as a supercharger?

Honestly I was fixing to post "You're right Tony. Can we move on now?" until I saw how you not only want to prove a point but you also want to make look like a buffoon. Hopefully you're up for some reading. "Ehh Tony, I still don't think we are on the right page and you're getting flustered (rightfully so if I was doing it wrong). My point with the .030" of cracked throttle was EXACTLY what you are saying! You will be far from idle, after the slightest crack and the tiny 1/32" orifice from the air bleed (if it was fully open) that I was going to use, becomes useless at that point. Well that sounds familiar. You just said it for me again.... because we're on the same page. However my wording was a bit confusing, making it sound like I wanted to tinker with idle by opening the throttle plates. That's not what I meant, my point there was that the car won't be street driven and idling isn't something it will do often. What I'm getting at is, unless if my air bleed idea affects the entire RPM, then I will choose not to use it. In no way am I saying set the idle by cracking the throttle. Luckily I cleared that one up AND apologized for my weird wording WITHOUT freaking out. The interesting tidbit here is that this thread is very similar to the thread I pulled your quote from, both discussing staged injection, can it be done, how can it be done, etc, theories should be freely exchanged. Wow, we were even discussing whether an injector spraying onto a closed throttle plate would still work fine, in that other thread. The similarities are astronomical! Actually the one dissimilar thing is when I kept questioning whether it would work you YET AGAIN went off on a tangent but in this thread when someone other than myself does the same, you're so calm. Maybe you had a bad day. But for the sake of pushing aside USELESS argument, I'm just going to say yes you're right Tony because in the end that's what you want to hear. I will however post our quotes side by side, actually on top of one another in case there is a problem with that wording, for easy analysis. I even added surrounding text for those who are questioning the legitimacy of like topics. As for the Grape Ape thing, indeed it was in a TOTALLY different topic but if you took the time to see how I typed... I'll provide you with the reference in case you are unable to go to page 1 and scroll up/down for whatever reason (maybe you're on a phone): We can see that you were being credited for providing a very informative resource. However, it appears you are either getting tangled up in your rage or you just want to argue over "what does coolant have to do with this" so in that case I could just as well remove your name. Done. Give a thank you, receive a shut the hell up. *takes a breath* Can we move on now? I'd really like to learn more about this stuff."

To start out: I'm sorry again Tony. Just having some communication difficulties. I'm trying to go off of your previous posts so you don't feel like you have to spoon feed all the time and also so you don't feel like people are ignoring your words of advice. The .030" reference: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63445-making-my-own-efi-intake-the-first-casting/page__view__findpost__p__693672 ECU reference: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95308-bsr-gtu-e31-head-images/page__view__findpost__p__901002 Grape Ape Racing reference: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86498-engine-temperature-tests-and-results/page__view__findpost__p__826391 I'll do my best to post a link since there is a lot of chatter in other threads I'm pulling from. Sorry about any wrong inferences too. I'm trying to make an educated decisions based on whats given to me. If its wrong, its probably because I haven't revealed "the next step". There will be the inevitable error in my logic until I fully learn. After doing a CTRL + F >>> "tony", there was the one initial error which I already took care of and everything else according the posts I pulled from, are all true recollections. I'll come back after I read the rest that you have posted. EDIT: I think I'm just getting confused with the whole IAC thing. I understand the synchronization and master idle adjust process now though. What I will do is seat the throttle plates as best as possible to ensure a good consistent seal on the runner walls and go from there. Even if it runs like crap at idle, I probably won't even care unless it's a serious problem. From the looks of things it seems that it could be more advantageous to utilize the holes for a balance pipe rather than idle control, until there is a known problem with idle that must be addressed. Considering that after a slight crack of the throttle plate, the air bleeds won't be of much help but a balance bar would be:

Yah I'm on the same grounds for the GM TBI too. As far as MS is concerned, I'm definitely no expert on it so chances are I'm wrong but I remember seeing a picture of the screen from somewhere about it. A quick search also yielded results for like dual tables perhaps for methanol injection use. Or even like Tony said a while ago about having 2 ECU's so after a certain RPM the other one starts controlling another set. Well, you know all this, we were talking about it in your thread. Sorry. Anyway, yes, the general idea was also that larger modern injectors will work fine. Really, for my N/A application, my "large" isn't all that big to begin with. This is what I have to work with: As I said before I'm confused on what I should do now as far as air bleed valves to synchronize the runners. I also don't know how well brakes will work without running the booster. With the bigger master cyl., Toyota calipers in the front and 240sx calipers in the rear, the pedal may be really spongy without the booster. So, if I don't need air bleeds to sync, then I will make balance pipe and hook up the booster. If I need air bleed sync's and my brakes still suck I guess I will have to drill and tap the manifold which makes me nervous! I'm using TPS and not a MAP so a vacuum log like Derek's isn't needed unless the tiny tubing to a log is enough to "balance" the runners and utilize the booster from a vacuum log. Oh and also Rayaapp, adjusting the clearance between the throttle plate and the runner wall is indeed how Hilborn says to synchronize their system, even with EFI. In fact a video by them shows the guys synchronizing a V8 (so you have 4 bodies) and when he got 7 of the 8 to match, he took the last throttle plate and tapped on it with a hammer until it came out right................ yah.

For the sake of conversation, not necessarily. We're talking about at idle how does fuel get there because the throttle plates are closed and the injectors are outside of plates. With a carb, the idle jet is between the plate and the head, just like Derek's injectors and like the manifold posted above. After reading in Derek's thread, I'm now confused on whether I should utilize the 1/8 NPT to synchronize the runners or to put barbed fittings in and make a balance pipe. If I don't care much about idle, and if after a very minute gap of a cracked throttle (Tony said .030" maybe) the air bleed sync's are moot, would one even need them? Unlike Derek's setup, all the throttle plates for my manifold are on one shaft so I don't have to worry about one plate being 90% open while the other is 100% open. Like you said rayaapp2, its a lot of trial and error so I'll probably have to build this thing and then work out the rest.

Megasquirt has a staged injection option, which is what you are talking about. Almost all the setups I have seen on Youtube has a staged system for the reason you said and because apparently larger injectors are too difficult to control at idle speeds, plus the atomization factor which as you know at higher velocities works well. My project won't be staged injected, however this isn't my thread so whichever route this discussion goes...

I'm sorry, I was getting the idea that you were inferring that. Edit: Derek I'm going to go back and look at your thread. I'm starting to think my original plan isn't going to work.

Lol TimZ I thought the same and then Tony hit me in the head with a hammer. A good example of it working is also the BMW CSL with the mechanical injection. They spray at an angle from the underside of the barrel upstream of the throttle plate: I was reading on a Honda forum about some Euro race teams stepped injection system and they said the best placement for the injector that sits outside of the air horn is in the center and 3/4" outside of it as that is where the best flow is so fuel will be atomized well. The Hilborn system the throttle plates are about 6" up, plus another 3 or 4" for the port length? I think when I crunched the numbers (http://www.grapeaperacing.com/tech/index.cfm), I came up with a tuned length of 11 or 12". Cam duration: 300º Pressure wave velocity: 1300ft/sec Peak HP: 7000 RPM Runner diameter: 1.8125" Tuned to the 3rd wave yields 12.7" length. With a 310º duration it goes to 13.2". The write up says to subtract 20-30º from the total duration so with that said, this really only get's you into the ball park. The same goes for the other variables below. The way I may do it is to get a little bit of dyno time and cut sets of PVC pipes, or metal whichever is cheaper, to certain lengths. Do a run, replace pipes, do another, etc. 1st and 2nd waves are apparently more prevalent but you need a substantially longer runner. With the same settings as posted above tuned to the 2nd wave the length jumps to 19.5" and the 1st goes to 40". Another way to reduce tuned length is to lower the velocity of the pressure wave which is essentially the velocity of sound. The 1300ft/sec figure is at a 245ºF. If you could get the intake charge to 140º you would have a runner length of 11.7". I don't know if that is realistic though, I don't know what sort of temperatures even occur now so it may be for good or for worse. So, anyway, after all that another thing I read, and it may be a false scare, is that when you set the injectors out like we're discussing there is a lag between when the injector sprays and when the valve is open thus making it unresponsive and bog perhaps. If this is true then hopefully there is a way to advance it. In my case, hopefully Megasquirt has some sort of option to take care of it if it is a real problem. Also, from the last post you have there Tony, it sort of sounds like your talking about setting the idle by opening the plates. I thought you had said before its a bad idea to do that, so I was going to introduce a vacuum leak by means of air valves used to synchronize the barrels like Derek's setup.

Tony, I thought you and I already have something similar. Why do you do this to me?

Just got back from the north east... Pennsylvania claimed 2 tires, Virginia claimed a 12 pack of Reeses, and Arkansas claimed my glasses. Even the poor little Honda cranked over slowly up in Rhode Island. Luckily it had enough to start up without a fuss. My cheap $160 travel cost vacation turned into at least a $500 trip... plus all the time driving in a Civic with my sister and brother in-law which is hell. They trashed my poor baby, I will never let family assume responsibility for my vehicle. Stupid me, I went in suspicious and they swooned me into trusting them. I still haven't worked on the Z. I'm trying to avoid it and focus on other things, mostly brakes. Cygnus I like your wood stove. I want one when I have my own house. Is that a little Sterling motor powering the fan? Would make sense to utilize one rather than an electric fan.

Yah, that was pretty frustrating. They didn't show the car until 2:20 on a 3:40 clip. Kinda pissed me off.

I'm thinking maybe my HEI module went out on me. Coils usually pitter out before they die. I haven't even looked at it.

Do you find all the interior switches work, being a '68? I think the one I was looking at was a 302 with all sorts of trick **** done to it and the manual 5 speed. Two things I'm concerned with, 1) don't know if I want trick **** because it will just lower the fuel mileage? 2) Dad doesn't like the idea of a manual 5 speed in a truck but then again, he always brings my little step brother everywhere so he's constantly kicking the shift lever. Figured 5th overdrive would be nice for highway driving. I think the question I have for that now, is it safe to tow in 5th. I've heard a lot of no's and a lot of yes'. I have one more long trip in this Honda and I'm done needing it. Sticky, I'm seeing a lot of tranny options. Do they all pretty much bolt in or something? The 5 speed I was looking at is one from a Mustang. How is the mileage, not towing, in your Ford?

Sure, if it's a 12v. My dad may have some spares at the shop that I can test with first before I snag yours. I just figured it was cold because it was the first time I had parked it outside on the street and two nights ago it dropped into the 20's. My car hasn't seen that crap in a while. I thought it was the battery at first because it sounded lazy but we hooked jumpers to it and still nothing. I tried for a while and decided to stop before I fry something expensive... Unfortunately, the flatbed/tilt bed tow truck nearly maimed the car since it sits so low. I heard the front air dam crunching but the damage is just on the underside so I don't care. Then he decided to push it from the rear spoiler so now that's all loose. I'll have to find a new way to mount it.

Drove over to my lady friends house Christmas night, car ran like a champ. Next morning later it doesn't want to start. I think I lost spark, but I don't know how that would happen considering I parked the car... and that's it. Curious if the cold somehow kills our electrical stuff. Typically in this cold weather, I crank it over for 2 or 3 seconds and get a little blip, then next time I crank it fires up. I'm using Weber's without the chokes hooked up. At my friends house though, I didn't get a little blip at all. Managed to troubleshoot as much as I could on the street and the coil wasn't sparking to the block when I held the wire to it. Maybe I couldn't see it with the sun. Anyway it's back home now and I'll check for 12v. I always try to trivialize a situation so this time I'm telling myself now I can dig into projects I had backing up since the car isn't running. When it was running, I didn't want to mess with it! The blue goose has landed and is ready for maintenance. With a dead car, I can take of the carbs and test fit all this stuff, tear the wiring out and prepare for Megasquirt, and do the brakes FINALLY.

Maybe get some scotch bright if the rust is loose on there. Get the majority of it off. When you run it, the rest should come off. Kind of a ratty method though... A polish from a machine shop is preferable. Should be under $100, at least for me.

http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm ^ Look under the camshafts section. Probably a split duration cam. Duration being that 272/260 number. Good for street stuff the site claims, which sounds like what you want. Have fun.

1998 Honda Civic LX. Pretty good shape, 110,000 miles, only cosmetic damage like a little dings and a scratch on the bumper. We just put in a new tranny and exhaust manifold. Figured it should fetch a solid $3000 if my dads '98 with 250,000 miles, no a/c, Honda sold for $2100 in ONE night on Craigslist.