josh817

It will bolt up to a L28 but I don't think an SR/CA/RB. If you are spending the money, you could get a KA tranny which is stronger if you machine the bell housing to fit the larger bearing. I'm working on a Datsun truck and from what I have read, concerning their 5 speeds, I think they have a short and a long case 5 speed. This may cause a problem as far as drive shafts are concerned so just double check the length.

Lol Gollum I said weekend. I say this only because we've had some failures at the track and of course you have to rush to get it back together so you can make the points race. A season though... When you get home from the track, you do proper repairs it seems. It also commended him for his hobbled car, because he's a contributor to the "drifting culture"... inferring that it was done and kept that way because it's cool. "Strange perhaps, to see zip ties all over a Porsche, but then again Nakai-san was the man who started the use of zip ties on drift cars." My face when I read that: I'm trying to compare apples to oranges here. Perhaps it's proper and cool, for drifters, to have a hobbled car. The club we play with, won't even allow a car like that into the track lol. To each his own.

Going to have to agree... The zip tie thing was kind of ridiculous too... Ratty, considering you own and race a Porsche. It would be a nifty idea if you were just trying to finish your race weekend though.

You're doing what I'm building for an airbox. I wanted to put the filter there, looks good.

Pretty sure the key in the snout should be straight up and down relative to the block but not the ground, because the block is tilted to the left when looking straight at it. You can get it pretty close to TDC, within 5º, by eyeballing and using a straight edge. Then you can look and see what notch lines up with the pointer. I always forget how that works. My '72 pointer has like 6 points or whatever on it, and now the '81 balance has another 3 notches.

I was thinking maybe the same thing TimZ, about the valve floating. I chucked a rocker on my motor doing part throttle slowly going through the RPM's up to 7000 RPM. The lash pad was sitting under the cam along with the rocker, but nothing was broken. I'm sure if it was crunched somewhere in there, it would break. Did you find everything in place when you took the valve cover off? Or was it like mine, pieces not where they should be? Also, I'm not a buff on this stuff but I see a groove along the ear of your lash pad, Z-ya. In the second picture. It looks similar to Tim's. And here too, unless he was talking about a different groove:

I'm in way over my head for beer... Looks like wine is my thing for a while until I read a lot more about beer.

I just want to say, Tony and Phleb, you guys have me all excited to get back home and start fermenting! I have more fun making the stuff than drinking it!

The torque is going to be different with each motor because of valve spring rates. Maybe try a totally different model of plugs. Not to sound like a fool but we had an MG in the shop a couple weeks ago that needed a tune up. Changed the plugs to the ones we have always used. Car started up and ran that morning. Couple hours later, the owner came to pick it up and the car would not start at all. Dad tried everything except changing the plugs because they were brand new, still looked new, had worked for him before, etc. I changed them to a totally different heat and I think I went to a resistor-less plug and it started right up no problem.

I always wondered what I was tasting when I took a sip of some rootbeer. I guess it was obvious by the name. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_beer Quite interesting! I like how the Sassafras albidum roots have oils believed to be carcinogenic. I guess its time to pick up another carboy so I can get started on some wines and rootbeer. If Phleb gets back on the mocha chocolate, I'd be interested in that too! Edit: From what I'm seeing, people are using rootbeer extracts added to a sugar-water solution and only a 1/4 teaspoon of yeast. I think what worries me is putting a cap on it to carbonate. With 5 gallons of anything fermenting I can see a fast pressure build up. The how-to's are saying let it carbonate/ferment for two days, then put it in the fridge to stop the fermentation. If I can keep from exploding for two days and then put my airlock/bubbler cap on it so it can vent like you said and produce a little bit of alcohol, I'll be set. I guess this is going to answer my question "how do home brewers carbonate their beer. I have a feeling its the same concept... For some reason I was thinking like a keg of some sort and you pressurize it with CO2 from an external source. Avoiding this lol:

I always read that soda would kill the yeast from its acidity/preservatives. Now I want to try it. I've been wanting to do different flavors of wines and stuff. Alco-pop sounds fun too! Only catch is hopefully it won't have a yeasty taste... Hopefully some of this stuff will actually taste like what it should. I tried infusing vodka with apple cinnamon, oranges, and then some with blue berries. All three smell great but when you taste them it isn't very good. I compared it to some Grey Goose Pear and citrus and the flavor is distinct. I can smell/taste the Grey Goose and go "yup that's pear" whereas mine you can only smell and you go oh god that's bitter, with a faint apple cinnamon flavor. Perhaps I didn't leave the fruit in long enough, or maybe I should add some sugar to it. Phleb, how do you get the mocha and the chocolate flavors in your beer?

Perhaps have someone spraying into the carb while you crank with the throttle cracked/fully open. My dad does this a lot on the cars he has at his shop and once they're fired up he will continue spraying into different throats so each cylinder gets a bit. By continuously spraying some carb fluid into the throat you're essentially "fuel injecting" it so a lack of vacuum to pull fuel from the jets would be resolved. What Tony said about lack of vacuum coincides with what you say is a lot of overlap in the cam. Oh and also if the bottom end was too tight it would have worn itself loose, down to specs where its "happy". I've learned that.

I'll go halfies on it with you but don't get angry when I start ordering pizza and hookers. Shag carpet would be all nasty after pizza. We had a car in the shop yesterday all shagged out. Most comfortable thing to be in. Then I thought about hot summer days, sweating all over it, and never being able to fully clean it. Naturally, being a limo and semi-chariot, things will get a little crazier inside compared to an ugly old Triumph TR7. For some reason, girls don't like cheese wedges:

Where did you get your steering wheel and hub from? I have a 521 and need a smaller wheel so my legs can fit... lol You're making me want to do a NA SR20... Too late now though, already have the L20 at the machine shop.

...and do nothing Making wines, hard ciders, beers, is legal. Distilling is the illegal part. They purposely and admittedly say that they make it outrageously difficult to obtain a distilling license. Now on the other hand, getting an ethanol license is apparently easy and just some paperwork to fill out. Again, unless you have a farm of some sort or access to a lot of cheap crop (anything with sugar or starch) it's not really worth while. At that point it really depends on how efficient your fermentation is and your still. My store bought bakers yeast fermented out to like 9-10% ABV and it was a 5 gallon carboy. Lets just say 5 gallons is 19 liters, multiply by .1, and that's 1.9 liters of 100% alcohol I would get, which I can't get using a still. Yeast from a brew shop and other cultivated species can get up to like 25%. The limiting factor for yeast is alcohol content and food/environment. If they run out of sugar or nutrients to feast on, they stop. If the alcohol content gets to a certain point, they stop/die. If it's too hot or cold, they stop. Wines, you won't load up with sugar for them to feast, because you don't want a 25% ABV/50 proof wine and if you stop it early or get a species of yeast that dies at a low ABV then it still has unfermented sugar and is sweet. Sugar wine woot! Different still designs will be more efficient. The very basic pot still will distill out to like 40%, then you run that 40% through again and maybe get 70 or 80%. Whereas a reflux still will redistill inside the vessel before it spits it out for collecting (don't really know for sure how it all works). Slowly separating the water from the alcohol. Although, I don't know why you would redistill unless you were drinking it. Anything over like 50% or something should burn. You'd be wasting your time trying to get a higher ABV, only to find you know have less volume and can get away with 40% so you'll probably mix water back into it... Unless you want to be awesome and run almost straight alcohol instead of that watered down girly ****. When distilling, I think over 97% is unobtainable without using dryers and chemicals, and then you have to keep in mind that the "10% ABV" is a mix of alcohols. Methanol, acetone, propanol, ethanol, and esters are all in there and would need to be cut if you wanted to actually drink it. If they aren't cut you could get sick or that old saying "makes you go blind", from the methanol.

Same on my F54. I can't remember what I found when I tried to see if it was connected to the main galley. I get plenty of oil pressure, so I'm not worrying about it.

I did the same. Tried some wine and some beer. It was fun and cheap. The yeast, hydrometer, corks, air lock, sugar, and grape concentrate was all I remember buying. Came out to be like under $20. Tasted alright... I don't really have a sensitive pallet. Just be sure to sanitize everything so you don't get sick or get any nasty obvious off flavors from wild yeast and stuff.

You meant downgrade right? lol

You should probably get a 240Z.

Makes sense. I'd hate to see their response time.

Guess either the corner workers didn't show a white flag, or they did and he ignored it. I was so ready to see **** break.

Gutted the interior... Felt like an idiot but was pleasantly surprised to see that the dash is metal, under all the padding. No need to fabricate! I really wanted to get rid of the stock gauge panel and use two Z gauges. Unfortunately the stock panel has fuel and water temp. As we know, on a Z, those are two different gauges... I'm really tempted to see if I can't pull the speedo out of the PC board thing so I can use just that and then the two Z gauges. Dad mentioned possible calibration which I don't want to deal with. Curious if I'd need to calibrate anything if using Z gauges. Voltmeter: no Fuel: maybe? Water temp: no Oil pressure: no While gutting the interior I threw the bench seat in the bed. Noticed it fit quite well between the tail gate and the wheel wells. Ideas ideas. Oh yah, politely asking if the mods can move this to the project section. Didn't expect to blog this stuff really but I keep finding myself posting things...

Curious as to the purpose of this picture? "No coolant between block and head are block. I shouldn't need to do any trimming." can you clarify? That's a good price for a copper HG. Guessing you can do any thickness and bore size? Great looking motor. I don't like that you're making more progress than I am at like ten times the cost! I guess I'm just super slow. And poor. lol

Shameless participation in necro-thread I don't know about their flywheels but I'm using their clutch (the ceramic 6 puck one) and it hasn't given me any troubles at all. When I read the reviews I was a little worried too but then you see that a lot of complainers are the once making supposed heaps of power. This brings me to the question "Why are you buying a $100 clutch and pressure plate for a supposed 500+HP Supra?" Granted I'm probably more in the 225-250HP range. I forgot about the 280ZXT TOB thing for 240mm clutches... I have the Fidanza flywheel and the 240mm clutch. Was running a T5 then put in a Nissan 5 speed from a 280... I used the collar and bearing but not the fork if I remember. If you buy the proper flywheel, the clutch will fit, according to the information posted by Flat Black. Thanks Flat Black by the way for the link to the replacement clutch surface. I've been curious where to get them.