josh817

Yours is a better resemblance of what I was trying to do. Although I think the black pen stripe following the hood bump contour is kind of nice, it works with or without it though.

I over did it today and threw a rocker. One of those gut wrenching moments when I heart a pop and then a tap tap tap tap. Thinking to myself I'm not in the position to have something break on me right now. I was happy to see that it was just a rocker that came off. It nicked the cam lobe right on the edge, so it doesn't affect the wipe pad. The thing I wasn't happy to see was that the pivot had unscrewed itself all the way down. After checking all the other valves for clearance I started her up, she runs much more smooth. Before, if you were holding the throttle at a certain point above 3000RPM when the cam is coming in, it would start choking and stuff. Plus, every time you went to shift and let off the throttle you would get a big backfire, when typically I only get backfires if I let the engine brake me. Symptoms are gone now. Made sure everything was tight. My question is are these "mouse trap" springs enough to hold rockers in at higher RPM's? They don't appear to be very competent, just by looking at them and seeing that you can easy take one off with your hands. Also: I baby my motor, its never seen past 5500RPM. Its not only that though... For some reason if I floor it, it will come up to about 5500 or 6000RPM, you feel it accelerating, and then its like it hit a rev limiter. Sounds like a rev limiter, and it feels like one. You almost fall forward, because the power just stops. However, if I do 75% throttle, it can ease its way up to about 6500-7000RPM, thats as much as I can take before worrying, and it is precisely when I threw a rocker. I am running a Schneider "stage iv" cam which is 295º/.490", along with their springs. Intake is triple Weber 40's, and I am running an HEI module with a '77 dizzy I think it is. I don't think its valve float, but who knows, maybe. I want to say it could be carbs since I have NEVER touched them. They bolted on and ran. Don't mess with it if it works. I was thinking maybe the motor is choking since I did some porting, which is at most like a "mild" job by professional standards probably. However, I'm thinking maybe it IS valve float because at 100% throttle, it occurs, like the rapid RPM acceleration is the culprit compared to slowly creeping higher like I did today. I think ignition is the last of my worries. I only list it because I remember reading on here that the HEI modules drop off in performance when you hit the 5000-6000RPM mark? Anyway yah, it was just one of those moments where I was like oh no what have I done. The last mile to the shop I was thinking what it could be because it was ticking pretty bad but not at the speed of a piston. I thought maybe I kissed a valve or something is getting ground up inside the cylinder, worst case scenario, but it wasn't like a thrashing from hell sort of noise, just a loud tick and a lack of any power. Glad it worked out for the best, easy fix, took ten minutes and $0.

I suppose. I felt irritated at the time. Didn't really feel like showing any concerns for being moderate or modest. Now that I'm super tired and drained from school at the moment, I see slightly more clear than I would have if I were enraged. I reread through everything, saw some grammatical errors and such, but I still back what I said (maybe not in such harsh words, but its what was going through my head, its diarrhea... of the fingers). I won't be hitting the edit button, after all, I spent my precious time with John, the toilet not JohnC, to type a 12 chapter book between Tony and I. Sheesh. It was some venting but it doesn't belong here, I don't feel. I'm seriously just waiting for moderators to come around on the board and see the flare up. It'd be funny if they knew about it, and just watched from a far, sort of like the Roman Colosseum. Totally broke all the written rules in this thread:

Tony the only thing I can say is it appears you blatantly ignored what I have posted. Everything I said, you have twisted and contorted. Not only have you ignored that my pricing comment was clearly an example (thus the use of Joe Shmoe), and how I said I'm not looking for an exact copy anymore (said that multiple times). Dare I even ask if you read through the entire thread before coming in on the high horse ready to write citations to everyone who participated? I knew you weren't going to directly answer the question but rather suavely prance around it. My pricing comment, was an example. I haven't a clue what a cam would sell for. I don't participate and group buys where I have like 20 products manufactured and pray that I have enough customers to make a profit. The point I was trying to make is sell your cam for any price I can say however that the basic tenet of business is if you lower the price enough, people won't give a damn about the quality. If you want to argue, then look at Hyundai and Kia. People were buying their cars because they were so cheap, despite the fact that they may only last 2 years. Those sales allowed them to ramp up the quality, and the price, to a point where they actually compete with the Japanese market. I don't know as much as you do about these distributors however I think its fair to say $1300 doesn't pay for material costs, or labor. You said yourself it pays for R&D. Now when I say shocked, you KNOW I meant that I was surprised to see such a response. You're a smart man, don't play the "I don't know what you mean" card. It shouldn't be some extreme taboo for me to write about the natural attraction towards lower prices. If we apply what Hyundai and Kia did, it makes sense to sell low. We already understand it isn't ethical. I already agreed with you on that part. You KNOW I don't have any intention to sell for a profit. Drop the argument. Sure its sickening but lets get it straight. The hard work of these guys must be kept secret. IF, and YES I SAID IF (I capitalize so you don't skip over that part) they were to post all the specifications need to do a regrind, on the internet. That is THEIR fault for releasing secrets. Let me tell you a little story. My dad was build a TR3 race car for a guy and he was doing some tick suspension, putting TR6 or GT6 (I don't know) suspension onto a TR3. One of his customers took pictures of the suspension without Dad knowing. Eventually he was receiving emails like "hey great job on the TR3 suspension" "Cool, what did you do there" and he's thinking to himself "how do all these people know about this". When he found out a certain someone took pictures, and then posted them online, there were a few words being shared. Was it ethically wrong for these people to be curious about this suspension and asking question on how they can do it themselves? NO, there isn't anything wrong, it is the fault of the person posting the "secrets" (lets just call it that) online. If by chance Kameari posted enough information to duplicate the work, you bet yourself people would be jumping on it, and it isn't a matter of who is a man with a soul or who is morally correct, or is it in fact very sickening, because its not. What I think would be sickening is such a bright engineers having their work unintentionally spread onto blogs by others. Original source of the problem? Not me, tell it to the guy who posted the information. As far as having meetings for customers and all that jive. I already know this. My father does the same thing. Trust me, I know because I had to play "run the monster over" on a forklift with my little brother to keep him from interrupting Dad. Don't talk down to me. I already asked you to please don't do that, yet you persist. I'm sorry, you high horse won't trample over me. I'm new to these motors compared to a lot of people here, but that doesn't mean I don't know anything. While we're on that note, I never said anything about Isky products sucking. I don't have a problem with American products. I invite you to quote me on where I said I did. I believe you won't find anything (other then maybe like Schneider, but even that is a long stretch) in this thread or my 400HP thread. I believe I was caught saying: As seen here, I'm not making ANY conclusions about any other cams simply because I don't know how they perform. On this thread, I was simply saying I was scared to go with any other grind, in case if Kameari knows something that Ron doesn't, I don't know who is excelling more. I never said Isky doesn't make good stuff and actually I think you can say something more along the lines of me being very modest concerning who makes better cams, as I am not jumping to conclusions. Don't put words in my mouth and then to kick me while I'm down, add in some sarcasm. Not to mention in doesn't really help your case while, being respectful and wise. By the way, please don't spill the rage over into that thread. It belongs here, so when this gets locked, the other thread will still be intact. If the distributor (who remains nameless because I'm not here to bash him) had just said he would be happy to sell to me rather then saying "I don't sell to everyone" like there is some sort of Samurai legend that may be put to shame if its not used properly, then efforts to try and make my own cam wouldn't be occurring. The issue isn't me trying to save a few bucks. When you say just buy the real deal I go "ok, let me get right on that." hey guess what, they won't sell to anyone. Weird. I can't win for losing, if I was determined to get THAT cam, not wanting to go to Isky or Rebello, or whoever. That's not the case, I'll go to Isky, no problem. If only I could get my hands on one of those cams legitimately and make a copy for personal use, but damnit I can't even get the opportunity to purchase one. So you tell me, by getting denied service, they let down a customer (by the way, this isn't Kameari its Watanabe-Wako, I was using the Kameari grind to decode because I readily had information, then use that knowledge to decode the Wako cam), so is it not legitimate for me to go out and make my own copy? Am I really "stealing" from these guys, when they wouldn't sell to me in the first place? I think they're letting themselves down. If I only made several hundred sales (if that) per year, I'd be jumping at the potential customer. But yah, you're right Tony, here in America we don't have respectful legitimate people willing to pay the money, we would put all that R&D to shame, which is a good reason to deny certain people service even if they have $1300 cash to literally pay for it right there on the spot. When you say "because the only people who can afford the cars are those who respect the time and dedication it takes to produce parts of high quality", don't ever tell me or anyone else that we can't participate in HybridZ notions because we don't have the money to invest in ethically correct high end parts. Something like that I find sickening, acting like because you have the wallet to purchase products, makes you higher than others. Comments like that bring bigger problems then me alone; it brings every budget Z'er who has the "ass hair" as Dad would call it,stepping up to what you, the Wiki, says. You know that when intuitive minds join up, great things can be achieved. I don't have the money to pay Paul or Bryan or Dave, whoever, to do engine work for me, call me poor. If I did have the money, I'm here to say I probably wouldn't spend it on labor like that, because I like learning how to do that sort of stuff, and I really enjoy doing it myself. This doesn't mean that I don't respect any of them though just because I can't afford to pay them to do it, so I do it myself. Sorry to be such a buzz kill. I also don't appreciate you calling my efforts a fantasy. I'm going to persist and get this long term motor build project complete with or without your support. I only ask that if you don't support it, don't come galloping in with criticism that isn't constructive. Anyway, I'm done doing my business in the bathroom and strange enough, I'm done typing too! I don't know if I unintentionally planned that though.

Thats a good idea but I think too small. You'd always find yourself draining. For the same cost I would rather get a cheap catch tank on ebay ($25).

You could just use an overflow bottle... Filters as crank/valve cover vents aren't any good. Dirties up the engine bay big time. Run it to a true tank so the liquids can separate from the vapors, have vapors get sucked into the intake. OR You can weld a bung onto your exhaust at an angle that points down range of the flow, so point it the pack of the car. The moving gasses of the exhausts should create a venturi and draw the vapor into the pipe and if you have it close enough to the header/turbo, it should burn, but its important to separate the liquid oil from the vapors, otherwise you may blow smoke!

Yah I've noticed that the grinds they are using aren't full blown crazy nasty grinds. I don't have my book with me but there was some Racer Brown grind that was like 315º+ of duration and like .620" lift whereas these guys are running around 300º-310º and .585" lift. My best guess is to still give them a some of the power band down low, so they can have good launches on the strip? Two different race styles for anyone who wasn't aware. What we are discussing is mainly for the drag strip I'd say. The giant Racer Brown cam is for road racing I believe...

That is very true. What was it that I heard a long time ago? There hasn't been an original idea/invention in like the past century or something. I forget, I just know there is book on either my bookshelf or my dads that discuss how like the atomic bomb is tied to the plow, from what I remember. That's not the basis of this argument, you know that. If you're trying to say they may just be feeding me a load of crap, this could be true. However, since the information I jotted down has been collective from many different independent sources, unless they have some sort of insider group saying "lets ALL post misleading information", the likelihood of this happening is slim. Not to mention, these business aren't dumb. Both of us know that. They obviously hold back information for their sake. I kind of thought that point was made clear when I said the information can be accessed by any Joe Shmoe. The source I had gotten information from was installation manuals that gave reference figures, so it wasn't directly posted on some blog, which was why I thought maybe I had enough to work all the typical numbers out. Good point but we both know that here in states most guys looking for some L engine power on the strip turn to a turbo because its more cost effective. My point is that calibration of the machine or not, who cares about the numbers, as long as it performs as good as it would over in Japan. Hell, for a lot of us who are at around sea level, it may even be easier to make the power seeing that these goes in the motherland look like they're up in the mountains/hills of Japan. Have to tune accordingly. One thing to note though is that its easy to get confused with high gearing, and lots of power, unless you listen to the shifting and the ratios they run. From what I read there were a lot of 4.6's - 4.8's - and a 5-something for rear end ratios. Being that a lot of people are using turbo setups over here, I tend to look over at the Japanese who are doing their thing on the N/A stuff. Now don't come back saying that there are many people here in the states and in Europe making lots-o-power from their N/A setup. I understand. I had just gone over to Japanese blogs and sites first. It was my first stepping stone. Lol Tony, that's why I said truth be told, I think the same thing, its rotten. Thought that was made clear after I said A: I wasn't trying to sell anything B: I think making master copies of the actual thing isn't legitimate and C: I wouldn't purchase the cam, make a shadow profile, and then sell it for my benefit or sell it at all for that matter, all for the same ethical reasoning. There are some things that will indeed just sicken you but lets face it... IF any of us were to do something like that. Would you honestly try to go about selling it at $1300. HONESTLY? Obviously if you're entering into the business with the preconceived thought of stealing somebodies work, do you think you would really set the price way high? You wouldn't be paying any royalties, because as far as the original owner is concerned, they don't know you're making copies and selling it. Lets get real here. Would you really be concerned about sending them an envelope with money saying "Hey I stole your design, I'm splitting the profits. Thanks"? The answer is no, so there is no reason to sell high unless you were wanting to make one hell of a profit. IF you were to go out and copy someone elses design, you OBVIOUSLY wouldn't want to sell high, because you want higher sales then the original business. Its just basic understanding. Kameari makes their cam and sells for $1100, Joe Shmoe makes the same thing (because its a copy!) for $250 on ebay. As long as Joe Shmoe sells good quality stuff like Kameari, I think he will be having more sales. I think it was just a simple misunderstanding on your part there, I know what you mean. I just don't like seeing people act all shocked at certain things others say. Just have to put a little thought into and then we see that its really quite simple etiquette. Its actually one of my pet peeves. Can we be done with this now?

I'll admit the thread started kind of rotten however like I said before it slowly transformed into more-so of learning whats so special about its dimensions. However, even from post one, questions like what is central angle, can a cam be ground down significantly, etc. were being asked. The desire to learn more about the cam was prevalent. The essential roots of the thread were based on answering these unknowns, of course at first fueled by a rotten intention but once realized it isn't going to happen the rotten part was gone. Anyway, it doesn't matter now, lets just let this thread scroll its way down or get locked. Start another one with a different tittle if need be but probably not. I think I'll be keeping my stuff to myself, ethical or not.

First thing she said was where is the cup holder. First thing that came to mind was the thread on here about how sports cars don't have cup holders. I told her when I get I drink I just put it in the seat belt with me and hopefully I don't crush it if I lean over.

I think there is way too much accented crap on there. Typical ricer problem, they over due it. I tried my best with paint to fix it up. The only thing I couldn't get is the airdam thing around the license plate. If the front was one uniform rounded off piece, rather than having that scoop thing, it would be better.

Hahahaha

I think I may try that for the time being. Switch over to the new style later on. I don't really want to spend $170 on electrical right now.

You should have seen my mother. She almost peed her pants. There is no "oh ****" bar to grab onto and when I blipped the throttle in 2nd gear she got so scared she actually became mad and started screaming at me. I informed her we were still under the 35mph speed limit and she was like ohhh.... My dad did karts with me as soon as I turned 8. I was doing Yamaha 100cc heavy weight class. Unfortunately I was too heavy for lightweight, but too light for heavy weight, so we had to add lead weights around the kart. I think the weight was 250 pounds, kid in kart and everything. We ran a restrictor in the intake and then a "3 hole canister" exhaust. It was like a tiny can looking thing as compared to the big long pipe that wraps behind the seat. I never got into shifters due to the cost and stuff. Dad had actually gone backwards on the scale. He started out doing endurance racing, dropped down to racing with a club (if thats considered a drop down), then sold his car and went to karts. Its a great learning experience though. Dad always tells me that he saw me grow so much because when we first started, I'd come in and he would ask how does it feel what don't you like etc. My answer was "yah its good I guess" haha. 2 or 3 years later coming to an end with karts, I was apparently able to rattle off handling problems and stuff like that. The only thing I didn't like is that its definitely one of those sports where more money can define a winner. As you can see in the picture, there are some people that show up with huge trailers and you're like dude... its not that serious, calm down. I was always placing third in my class. The 1st place kid was a good driver, and he was well funded. He frequently lapped everyone, in a 10 minute race... 2nd place was well funded but moderate driver, he was substantially behind 1st but substantially in front of me, sucks for him being by himself. I was third, and I guess I was a moderate driver with not as much funding because we had to hold out on tires and I don't remember having a rebuilt engine at all over the 2-3 year period. I'm glad I was third though because the other 5 drivers were behind me. We all wrestled for that spot, no one cared about Andrew making 1st place, because he always made 1st place and was so far ahead he was only racing himself. Hahaha Its kind of cool though, that kid won the nationals I think. Maybe he has moved on to bigger toys and is doing well in there. Would be interesting to see him be a motorsport big shot and I cans ay I raced with him, like it actually meant something. Oh yah and I didn't really work on it because I had no clue how to fix stuff. Dad would set it all up for me and made the proper changes according to what I said. I help him in the sense of like tire pressure, caring tool chests to our pit, little stuff like that....

Strictly speaking on a Japanese grounds, I believe this thread was created to be. I don't mention Isky because in the stuff I found, Isky wasn't in there. I'm not going to make any conclusions on why or which is better, I'm just saying Isky isn't in there. The only thing I found from Isky were springs and a maybe retainers I think on one guys blog.

Yah I've pretty much given up on the whole idea. I started with the thought of copying the grind if I had enough information. As things looked more grim, it became more of a mission to try and "decode" the cam. I want to learn how these ramp rates interact with an L engine and then what sort of fine tuning is involved. It appears the L engine is very responsive to overlap and duration changes. It can spit out buttloads of power, or you can over due it and make like... 7. The only way I can respond to Tony is if the few distributors of these cams don't want to sell to certain people, then I will go out and do what I need to do, to get the grind I want. As discussed in the 400hp thread, I was told "it won't work for your application" and then emails stopped flowing. Despite the fact that his website says he will be glad to help you either find a cam that will work for you or tell you the weak link in your setup so you can run the machoman cam, but he never did. If a dealer wants to be a jerk and as I said in other posts "secretive" thats fine, it fuels my desire for a "stick it to the man" situation where I have my own cam ground, save my money, and stick my tongue out at you. I can't say that I honestly had no problem spending $1300 on a camshaft (Wako75s is the $1300 cam apparently is more radical then the Kameari 77i), however, being that this is a long term project I don't think that it would be such a big deal when its over a 4 year time span. The ultimate would be the Wako 75s I suppose, for what reason I do not know, which makes the argument invalid. I do know however after dealing with the Wako distributor, I don't want to have any part of it. Yes Tony, after meeting someone personally and seeing a face to the name and becoming a type of relationship that's not just talking on a need to know basis, you don't really want to screw the person over. However, I'm in Texas, I'm not going to meet up with someone face to face unless they're around here. The distributor I talked with was by email, and wasn't too great. Therefore, I don't have any sort of ties like that. As you can see, I don't have a particularly good view of the Japanese scene concerning S30's. I recognize they have mastered the work, they're obviously doing something right, etc. I AM planning on buying their chain tensioner system, valve seats, etc., unless I find my own replacement. We of all people, the HybridZ community should know that there are ideas which are genuinely original, maybe say like Bryan's cam chain setup and his valve cover for his DOHC head, and then there are idea's that are based off of other ideas, like what I'm trying to do here. As a young person, limited money (in the sense of developing your own piece of work), that doesn't have personal access to to a full machine shop or anything, I am in a position to look at other peoples prized possessions and to try and make my own version of it. Don't poop on my parade. This is how I get things done. I am doing it on a personal basis, not with the intention to sell to everyone else for a profit. That's why I took the liberty to mark out all the stuff on the cam card I posted, even if its worthless information or its something anyone can access (which it is). Its also why if I did get a grind that worked for me, I wouldn't start making it for other people profit or not. If we all read the book The Unfair Advantage we can see, coming up with original ideas and coming up with modified versions of someone elses idea, within the confines of the rule book, wins the race. The only rule book I'm following are copyright laws and of course like I said, this has slowly turned from making an exact copy to understanding the logic behind their R&D and using it for my gain. Yes, I have a long way to go, but don't belittle and discredit me for that. You have to start somewhere. Maybe this thread didn't start off the way the way I planned for it, but then again, my very first post on this website was "whats the difference between these two blocks". Obviously I still make some vital mistakes. Also I would like to mention in #22 I clearly said that I don't take pride in bolting someones work onto my motor and dancing around going woohoo look what I did. It would be more like, woohoo look what Paul did, I bolted it down and it works great. Not my cup of tea, but is it wrong for me to read through Paul's posts on monster heads and what he does or doesn't do to get the best flow numbers, so I can try out the technique myself? Did I lose all my dignity for reading stuff that has been published on the internet, knowing it is open to any source? I didn't do any sort of hacking or whatever, the information I have is out there and its really obvious when it can be found with... Google. I think the answer to the rhetorical question is no, its not morally wrong or irresponsible. If it were, then the responsibility to keep your businesses secrets confidential lies with the person who posted the information in the first place. If Paul didn't want me going out with a die grinder, screwing up some heads but doing something right on like the 5th head to where I have a port that flows well, then it would be on his part to not post his secrets. I'm already anticipating a response like "That's not the same thing as what you're doing", I know its not. I understand the stuff that Paul posted isn't necessarily top secret, its the concept that I am trying to show. In my big folder of Japanese stuff, which I posted a lot of it in the 400hp thread, I have pictures of the chain tensioner, ports, valves, cams, guides, you name it, along with measurements and translated excerpts. Its not wrong for me to go out and try to duplicate it in an effort to have the same product which would be 350hp at the wheels. I honestly don't care if it took them 5 years of R&D or 35 years of R&D, if you post pictures or measurements on the internet, in a place that doesn't require any sort of log in, you have presumably released your work to the public. People like me will find it, try to use the specs to figure out what exactly we aren't understanding when it comes to L-engine power making, and then making our own version to either use personally or sell at a rate that isn't absurd (truth be told, why sell it at a high rate when you don't have as much R&D involved as the original source). I have no intention of selling stuff, so I'm not even under that category. I want to make note that Kameari's high price along with Wako's are not unfairly high like gas prices are sometimes. As Tony said, they have a ton of work put into their product, and also as Tony said in a different thread, when they made an updated version of the chain tensioner, they sent one to him free of charge without him even asking. Service is good. I think the situation would be exponentially worse if I bought the actual Kameari or Wako cam and then CNC copied it, for more than personal use. I think it would be extremely wrong if I had Paul port a head for me, and I had a CNC copy made. Not to mention the whole pride thing that I wouldn't be getting. I don't think its wrong at all for me to get ideas, pictures, measurements, whatever, and collaborate with others whether it be HybridZ'ers or Ron at Isky to "decode", as I call it, and then say "hey, apparently this lobe center works with something around this sort of duration and this lift blah blah blah" and maybe Ron says "well for your application you may want to keep all things equal, except for the duration blah blah blah". I don't have an engine dyno, I don't have 35 years of knowledge, I don't have customer testimonies, to aid my efforts in the next 4 years. What I have is the internet to look up research done by others, and a few books on the shelf, to help me develop something that I want. I'm not doing anything wrong here, nor is anyone else. If people here say you need ramp rates, fine, I'll try my best to do some research on ramp rates. Is there something wrong with me making a conglomerate of specs from say Isky and Kameari and Wako for to form one cam? Hell no. To answer the question why don't you just call and ask? Its because I don't like talking directly like that. If Tony were to come up to me and say what he did, I'd be like uhhhhhhhh, maybe get a few sentences out, but not all of this. It takes my brain some processing time to figure out what I want to say. Even with a list of questions, I frequently find myself hanging up and then going I now have ten more things to ask! I'm not into the business of wearing out my welcome, or using up peoples time when they have a job to conduct. All I want to do is call Ron up or whoever, have my measurements ready to go, rattle off some specs, get an ok from him, pay for it, wait for a cam to show up on my door step. Honest to god truth, I will probably break down and just buy a grind from Isky or from Rebello (not that there is anything wrong with their stuff, I was just really hoping for my own grind) because I have a feeling help on this board is going to slant off to a stand still which means this effort has pretty much ended. I can't wait to hit the post button and see how long this damn post is.

Told my girlfriend to bring the camera along. I didn't know she was going to be so annoying with it... So I scared her. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oj5CBvD2G_M

I found a person that resurfaces them, I think.

:[ I can't see the pictures but I'm excited to see what you have going on there.

The split duration thing was just some random card I found online, its not the one I want. I do think I should try Dave at Rebello though. One thing the two have in common is that they like to use the radical ramp up rate while letting the valve seat back down slowly. Not only does it aid the valve train stability in higher RPM's but the fast ramp up apparently encourages very quick acceleration (RPM wise). However, even if I go to Dave, my only fear is that because the opening and closing times, maybe the ramp rate, lobe centers, etc aren't exactly the same, I can't help but think if I'm missing out on something. If you review my N/A 400hp thread(http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/90037-japanese-na-l6-400hp-how-they-do-it-pictures-ive-found-etc-not-56k-safe/page__p__854228__fromsearch__1&&do=findComment&comment=854228), you see that other Japanese camshafts such as the Wako 75S tend to be exclusive. When i talked to the distributor, he said he doesn't sell it to everyone, like you have to be worthy. You would think as a distributor, he would be more than happy to sell you a $1300 camshaft... yes, just the camshaft, nothing else. That's not the case though, which is why I am pursuing this. These dudes have proven over 350whp on almost all their cars with their setup 3.1L. I see Dave advertises like a 360hp 3.1L but I think that is at the crank and not the wheels (don't get me wrong though, his work is quite nice). Of course, they make their power by doing a mix of correct things that massage every last ounce of power out of the motor, so obviously just a cool camshaft won't do ****, however I'm trying to replicate them but with alternative products which is why I want the EXACT specs and not a different cam. I don't know if their products are on such a fine edge that changing something may screw up your chances of making that sort of power. This is my long term project, as in over the next 4 years. Don't criticize, don't hate. I want to see where this goes. Oh and I also forgot. I do all my own work. I wouldn't be so interested in this stuff if I just handed Braap a handful of money, an arm, both my legs, and offered my sister to him to build me a monster head. Yes, because its expensive, but more so because I am a firm believer in being a proud owner of your own creation, not someone else's nice work that you bolted together (sorry if I short changed some of you engine builders, I know its more difficult than that). I will be porting my own head, having it welded up, reshaping chambers, accompanying it with 50mm Webers that we have, and considering doing my own header because I have a hunch on an idea but obviously I don't have the skills. The beauty of long term projects though is that you can slowly dump money away, and learn as you go. Not to mention its extremely helpful that my father knows a handful of people that do machine work, welding, etc. I don't do head/block milling or aluminum welding since we just have a basic MIG welder at the shop. The labor that I do actually pay for, is typically discounted at Dad's shop rate, or for instance the machine shop has known him for over 20 years so they just say "Hm... I'll do it for $30, is that cool?" and I'm like " Hell yah". EDIT: Must not forget that on Kameari's website the Kameari 77i Super Drag camshaft says 77 denotes "durations" in degrees (http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_SuperDragCamshaft.php). Kameari also makes two lesser grinds which is the 75i and the 73i. I want to know what this number means. Also, I want to know what central angle is. These two figures could at least open the door for me to plug some numbers into a calculator.

I would think that if you have a duration, and a lobe center, you can see that the lobe center is closer to the opening than to the closing, which shows that its asymmetrical in design. Then you figure, lets just say you have 60º to get to .400" of lift, then you can figure out a rate by that. Correct? I know I don't have everything exactly on the card, however, I think there is enough information there to plug numbers in and find the rest of the unknowns. Correct?

Well today we got it started! Took a little bit of cranking, but we got it! We had pulled the motor and tranny out. Mated them together, and it spun. I can't figure out what it was. The only thing I can guess is that it was really tight, you had to break it loose but after a quarter on a turn, it was spinning easily. We stabbed it back into the car, hooked everything up and then had a water leak at the manifold. A piss poor design I say because they have water coming out of the head, into the intake manifold. The intake/exhaust gasket seals the water port... So I take the intake and exhaust off again, put more sealant on it. That held, but when we pressurized the system, guess what? There is a little drip coming from the rear. The rear being IN THE BELL HOUSING. We never did what we typically do which is put JB Weld around the freeze plugs at the front and rear. This pissed us off unbelievably. Wasn't our fault because even without the JB Weld, it is suppose to seal... We decided not to yank the motor AGAIN, and we did what we fear most. We put those little radiator sealant cubes into the water, hoping it would seal up the drip. So far it has worked. Great oil pressure, temperature stayed surprisingly low yet we weren't even rolling, so that was encouraging. Ran on the old fuel in the tank. There isn't much left according to the gauge, so we may burn it off rather than drain. One thing we couldn't figure out is that if we blipped the throttle hard, we would hear what sounded like a loud valve tap. Dad is thinking maybe its pinging when we blip it like that because it goes away if we hold the RPM at a certain point. We figured, shitty gas, 10:1 compression, unknown timing (we haven't touched the distributor since we got it started), most likely pinging. Oh yah! And to top thing off! I was looking for a bolt I had dropped under the seat. I shine a light under and what do I find. A picture of a black lady in red lingerie, really big, hairy, holding a gun. It was hilarious. She became our goodluck charm. Instead of putting back under the seat, we are thinking put it in the sun visor so when he sees it he will be like ">_> I hope they didn't see this!"

I'll just be straight with you, its a Kameari cam grind. Kameari... charges $1100 for their cam, and theirs is proven, which is why I won't make an exception for the grind. This is the exact grind I want, nothing different...

Hm ok I will check for corrosion. I think the high heat, over time, is killing my fuses. I put a new one in the day I made the first post. Meaning I used the lights that night, and tonight, so a total of two times, still works. You can definitely tell on the fuse block that the Park. Light tab is melted around it (but still supported) and the "Common" tab which is in the bottom right corner. Today, within 10 seconds of having the lights on, I licked my finger and stuck it on the tab, and it was hot enough to make it sizzle. I was contemplating buying the MSA fuse block but I didn't want to melt that too... Maybe it would fix the problem though.

I don't know the specs on Locktite but this Devcon epoxy does 2500psi and its $2. http://www.antonline.com/p_60020-GP_590189.htm