josh817

A gift to Ron:

You know, I once saw a po--- Oh nevermind... And she start to like si--- Ah nevermind again...

Love the name you gave the beast.

Give him the option of metal, wooden, or plastic spoon beating. Thats what my mom use to do. Really bad behavior brought the metal weapon. I want to know about this "Patrol" business. If its the one in your avatar it looks cool! I've been looking for an old beater.

I do love my carbies. Nothing is better than burning a gallon of gas off throttle rolling down a hill with the engine braking. Anyway yah, I agree. Stock EFI will go ape ♥♥♥♥ if you change cams drastically or send a ton of boost through. Somewhere on here lingers the "small port head" thread, discussing on how to make good low end power by keeping the velocity of the mixture up at lower RPM's. Its interesting.

I think as long as the velocity within the pipe is high, you are fine, unless you put the muffler midway.

How much is more? Standard is... 60-70 ftlbs or is it 30-40 ftlbs. I get my rods and mains mixed up without the book.

Like mine!

I had an old L24 block and when I went to take it apart I broke a hex socket or whatever you want to call it, just trying to get the head bolts out.

Depending on your application, if you feel that it is absolutely necesary to have an accurate torque reading then buy some ARP studs. Its $100-something for them. Otherwise you can get a new set of bolts for $70 I think I saw, or just buy used. Perhaps I'm just going a little crazy because its so late. I use my old L24 bolts to hold our datsun motors on the engine stand. Once we are ready to add a crank and stuff to them we move the engine over to a stand where it mount from the side rather than from the rear, this way its more stable and it won't topple over so easily. Plus the side mount stand has the nice rotate thing on it.

Supposedly the turbo ones are stronger or something. There isn't a way to check either, they both have the same length and number of bolts.

I've been looking around for rebuild kits for the S12W calipers (this also applies for the S12-8) and the 280zx 79-81 calipers. I went to ORileys and they insisted that people don't make rebuild kits anymore. Well, don't let them fool you into buying re-manufactured ones if you don't have the money. I don't mind buying them since its lifetime warranty but S12W's are $47 each and I had traded some parts for these brakes, so I don't really want to go out spending more. So, to help everyone out, rather than asking the silly Orileys guys to look it up and having them feed you a line of ♥♥♥♥ half the time, just walk in with a part number: S12W caliper front left PN: 19-1241 S12W caliper front right PN: 19-1240 S12W rebuild kit left/right PN: CK352010 S12-8 caliper front left PN: 19-827 S12-8 caliper front right PN: 19-826 S12-8 rebuild kit left/right PN: CK351602 '79 280ZX caliper right without shroud rear PN: 19-156 '79 280ZX caliper left rear without shroud PN: 19-157 '79 280ZX caliper right rear with shroud PN: 19-B156 '79 280ZX caliper left rear with shroud PN: 19-B157 '79 280ZX caliper left/right rear rebuilt kit PN: CK351297 I asked my dad and he said when rebuilding you usually replace the pistons too. I don't know what the requirements are as far as piston condition and when they need to be replaced. I think I will just reuse my pistons unless they look like they have been tortured. The fact of the matter is that if you have to buy pistons for the S12W, you might as well just buy a re-manufactured caliper, especially when its lifetime warranty.

Firing order matters, but the prong on the dizzy doesn't. :] Thats my major preach... It doesn't matter if wire #1 is at 12 o'clock or at 5 o'clock, as long as the firing order is correct, you're fine. I've seen too many souls freak out because the rotor isn't facing in the right position.

Eh... I'm basing this off an ebay ad I saw. 4 x 4.5 is ours and that just so happens to be I think the "cobra" one or something. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220503583669&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT They're just my fall back plan. I don't intend to switch over... If width is a problem I'll see if a proper sized spacer does the trick which then gives me the excuse to use ZG flares.

Oh and I might add! If you have a 240 with the brake conversion PM me. The stock proportioning valve is in the rear I believe so its like... do I put the adjustable one back there hidden too? Thanks!

Hey guys, not this weekend but next (Nov. 13th) is the weekend that the vintage Indy Cars come out to Texas World Speedway in College Station. CVAR, the club that Dad and I are a part of will be there too and I heard from Dad that there are guys coming from all around the country to see the cars or bring their cars. With that said. I have to install my EDIS setup. I don't think I will have my big brakes on but that would be super sweet too! Also I want to clean up the interior of the car by ripping the nasty carpet out and paint the inside however Dad said that bed liner is $90 a gallon. Not interested in dumping that sort of money. What other sorts of paints will work? I was thinking maybe some sort of enamel like Rustoleum, quart for like $15. Now that I think about it I really want my brakes on the car but I don't know if they will fit the 14" Supra wheels! I don't want to ask any noob questions so I'll just list what I know: -Vented rotors in the front with the Toyota S12 calipers -What I believe to be 280zx rear disks (I can't tell the difference between Maxima and 280) -The front rotors, if they fit inside the stock splash gaurde, will fit (diameter wise) inside my wheels however the problem may be width wise. The S12W (whatever it is for the vented rotors) I think are wider than the stock caliper and right now these stock ones are about 1/2" or so from the wheel... I know you put spacers somewhere in there to line up the rotor, I'll have to read. Basically that's my brake dilemma. I may be taking too big of a bite for my own good and just not do them. Last thing I need is to take apart what I have and then find out that these won't fit. To test and see, the calipers are only held on by 2 bolts. Maybe I just undo these bolts but leave it hanging by its brake line and then test fit these S12W's. If they don't fit I'm planning on moving over to a 16 x 8 4 lug mustang wheel made from '79-'93. Brakes: Oh I finally got my baby fixed too which just so happens to be why I have all this spare cash to do everything now! I'm thinking about flares if I have to run bigger wheels and spacers! hehe It'll look slick. PS: If I do brakes I want to make sure I have the right car and year so I can buy some rebuild kits! If you see the first picture looking at the s12W caliper from above you see two triangle clips holding the pads. On my other caliper its missing one of those clips so hopefully that comes in the rebuild kit! Also, if you aren't able to make it, don't worry, I will have lots of pictures and videos!

There is another car they did it to. Street car, sounds a little different than the red one but close enough if you ask me. Whatever the difference is, the sound of the car is negligible.

Hey, its better then me sticking in the rear main cap backwards at first. Wasn't paying attention at all. Luckily I only torqued them down 3-4 ftlbs. Had to use the little inlbs torque wrench so that would be 12x3 = 36inlbs. Don't forget to torque the front cover bolts to 10 ftlbs too. Thats a true statement, don't strip the aluminum.

I always wondered how the stock 350z sound occurred in the first place. Never sounded like a normal V6 to me. Normal being like a Buick or something. Now I'm really curious about making my own headers out of a regular old set of typical MSA ones.

And 312hp. Is this proper race motor figures? I haven't a clue. I'm surprised it makes that tone with such a large pipe! I don't think any of us can get that high pitch with anything bigger than like a 2.5 or 3". Here: Now this brings me to the question, are these like tapered primaries or what? I heard from my dad that they are now tuning the primaries with venturis to speed up the flow even more. Aren't the Kameari headers equal length and tapered and does this taper qualify as the venturi or is the venturi an actual piece that goes into the primary? Still, I have no clue and I'm not interested in stealing this thread. Just some food for thought. EDIT: Haha shows how much I know. Stepped header is same thing as tapered or something like that. I'm hopeless.

Yah I was trying to avoid saying that but now that its out there. The 60's and 70's muscle cars were fine but once you hit late 70's and 80's, good god it was slaughter, looks wise.

Maybe I'll rethink a positive crank case ventilation system then. I always said no way because I don't want it to gunk up my carbs. I wonder if I run it to a catch tank to catch any liquid or gunk, and then let the vapors suck from there into the airbox. I don't know.

Does the open filter for crank case/valve cover ventilation dirty up your engine compartment? Mine is all grimey now, use to be so pretty! I would think that with your polished valve cover it would leave residue on it.

The entire car looks like ♥♥♥♥ to me. And I couldn't resist. I had pictures from last year at the September TWS event:

I have /b/ stuff too for my avatar and sig. >_> HELLO /B/TARD!