josh817

Someone should record and send to me, because I do not have cable/satellite. :[

I've gone crazy. I am amazed by this like a fly and a glow lamp.

Oh god what is happening to my brain! Ahhhhh!

Alright so here is progress. Unfortunately whoever painted the car painted it with some really tough paint, and several layers of it. I would apply the aircraft stripper, wait, strip it off and underneath that paint was more white paint... except for the drivers side rear quarter panel, I had that down to bare metal pretty much. Strange. So I did this all around the car, getting the top coat off. Now I will use a sander if I can find one and get this thing covered today. I think its the "dog legs" you guys talk about, on my Z one side is fine but the other wasn't so lucky... I work late, like until 3AM so people leave me alone. How does one strip the paint inside the wiper valence? I'm just going to POR-15 any of those hidden places that no one will see rather than waste paint. Paint stuff. Me after day one... Not too thrilled with the whole paint not coming off thing and the whole me not having a die grinder nor a sander to get it off. Looks like I'll have to make ANOTHER trip to Arlingtion... And yes, I look like an idiot with the headlamp but it helps a ton even during the day when you're under a car! Oh and I took off the fiberglass side skirts and thought the car looked way better without them. The airdam sits level with the bottom of the cars natural body line so now I have a set of fiberglass side skirts if anyone wants to buy them.

I don't think my general point isn't getting across properly. I am keeping with my porting logic, not so much the cam although I do think a little bit bigger would be good. My point is that sending so much pressure into that motor like that to get maximum number, to me, I don't find the very reliable. I would rather take the time to properly setup a hot head and make the same power but at a lower pressure because one bad habit that Big-Phil has/had which I think some are forgetting or avoiding is that he went through motors quickly. I think all the answers are valid to the original question "Can anybody think of anything obviously wrong with my setup?" Goodluck with your progress.

Well I guess it just depends on what sort of money he is willing to spend because no one can argue that a port job will kill his power, and I still think that cam is a bit small compared to some other turbo cams. If he is going to go through the trouble of changing some stuff on his turbo, exhaust, and maybe intake, then by that point it is a good time to change out a head while everything is off of it. And I still think the head is a problem, it is always a problem until you have it ported. Note the guys who have built NA stroker motors without a port job and they only make 180-200hp. Port it and you bump up to 260-270hp hopefully. Well now force 17psi or whatever through it, the gain is even better. Like I said, if he is willing to dish out the money, and apparently he is to a certain point if he had some good people build it (unless you received some great deal), then he can dish out another $1500-$2000 for a cam and port job or just $1250 for a port job. Big phils situation, if you take out the methanol and add a good tune, it would be the perfect situation, sorry for stating it improperly. The port job still prevailed in the dyno runs.

Bigger cam and a port job rather than just a clean up. The lift on that cam is awfully low in my opinion. For a hot turbo setup I would get closer to .5" lift. If you have seen Big-Phils l28ET dyno video, it is a perfect representation of what a port job can do. He did something like 25psi or something @ 320-340hp I think? Maybe it was closer to 400hp. His buddy Chris has a built up motor with a ported head and did around the same power but at 17psi.

2008 Summer when I did my stroker. I think they had a typo because when I did my build I remember planning on a 10's:1 compression ratio however I went back one day a couple months ago to mess around and I couldn't remember what thickness my headgasket was. I remembered it was less than 1mm but then I was like wait... less than 1mm is like thinner than paper really... So I think I found the bookmark for it here, although I'm not to confident that this headgasket that I'm using is REALLY .6mm. Yah know? I didn't know they did .5mm headgaskets, perhaps I DO have the proper one. Hell, if they do make smaller than 1mm then I'm relaly happy for having the proper compression!

For paint and body discussion visit my other thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145621 As it is in a more relevant section of the forum.

Alright guys! I have everything! I have my tools, bought some Dynaglass, rust remover, aircraft stripper, and just little stuff like a tack rag and gloves. The paint I bought Etch Primer, I said Epoxy primer but the lady said they changed it to etch primer so alright. Then I bought a sealer, the base coat, and a clear coat. The color is BMW Lemans Blue: http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=bmw+lemans+blue&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2 I think it will look alright. My only problem is that the lady, who has been in the business for a long time, said the car probably only needs like 2 quarts of base, the computer said I would be a little bit short, however I didn't want to spend another $70 to get a gallon. Yes, I went with the cheap ****. If I don't have enough for some reason, I will get an extra quart or something. Here we go! PS: If you mods/admins can change my thread title to something that you think pertains better to this project please do. The talk of the antenna hole has kind of steered off.

Well when I bought mine off of their website it never said sold out. I was on a time limit, so when I received the email saying its sold out but will have a shipment in soon I was freaking out. However, they received their shipment like a week later, since there is a Courtesy Nissan in Richardson, Texas it took a day to ship and I had it. It was a Nismo metal headgasket I do believe, 90mm bores. On their site they should have both 1mm and 2mm thickness with 90mm and 91mm bores, whether they're out of stock or if its Nismo or not I don't know.

Well got back from the DMV and they said basically Texas has run out of letter/number combination and yes they started to recycle old numbers. There is a lady somewhere with a passenger plate with my number and I have a classic plate. They said it wouldn't be a problem unless on of us gets a ticket in the area. For instance, if she dets a ticket in the DFW area, its going to hit her AND me for it. So basically I have to lose my '72 plates and get regular old plates or have a lot of explaining to do when one of us gets a ticket or whatever. That pisses me off!

$150 from Courtesy Nissan for their 1mm or 2mm headgaskets. If you want to **** around and take layers off thats up to you but they are like riveted/pinned together so...

Well they're the 1972 Texas plates which are green letters and a white background, 3 letters and 3 digits (BTV 837 I think). I went through the process of finding a set, because they're like $80 to find a GOOD set and I paid $35. Then we had them inspect for any rust or discoloration because they won't except ****ty plates, they passed. It hasn't really been a problem today and it was an easy fix. The 3 times I've been pulled over only one of the times did the state trooper take forever to process and he didn't say it was a problem he just said "oh yah another car popped up under those plates so it was taking a while". My ticket was issued under these plates too and no problem so who knows. I never received any sort of stickers, I just use these plates and have my registration and inspection sticker. The guys from the online defensive driving thing said the plates won't be on the certification paper that I turn into court so I'm just using Mom's plates, no biggy but I was freaking out at the time. Who knows. I really don't want to get regular plates, I like my classic plates so people know at least what era it was from. And yes, I will not be paying for any new plates as it isn't my problem when someone can't do their job, thus me doing everything myself when possible. People these days.

No... They just reuse old numbers so you don't have some number from the 1930's not in use. There are millions of vehicles in the US and each plate has 6 letters/numbers right? I don't know what the rules of plates are like you can't have all letters, you have to have at least one number I think or something? 26 letter in the alphabet, 10 numbers to choose from (0-9), numbers and letters can repeat (so you don't do 26 x 25 x 24, rather you do 26 x 26 x 26). Do the math and figure that reusing numbers for plates/cars that don't exist might be necessary. I don't have my calculator with me so don't ask me.

I have the original 1972 Texas plates for my 240. I was pulled over one night (let off with a verbal warning) however the officer took 20-30 minutes in his car to pull up my information so I'm thinking oh god what it he going to do now. Actually, he was looking up my license plate. The problem is that apparently in Texas, I don't know about other states, they reuse old plate numbers and my plate wasn't registered for my car, rather it was for a lady who owns a 2007 Honda Civic. Thats all fine an dandy as long as I don't get gunned down for it however I just did while taking my online defensive driving course to withdraw a ticket I have. They ask security questions to make sure it is YOU taking the course and not your buddy. You can get 7 questions wrong until they lock you out and you have to call them. Well 2 of my 3 received had to do with my license plate, what year is your car, what county is it registered in. So here I am getting pissed so I call them up and they are having me use my moms plates rather than mine. I told him my plate numbers and thats when he said there isn't a 240z for those plates, the only thing registered for that is a lady with a 2007 Honda Civic. Tomorrow I'm off to the DPS or DMV whichever it is to see how I can get my car back on these plates. Discuss, anyone else have this problem?

Yes, note the motor in the back and the sparks, probably a metal plate used to create sparks for show. You know, like those low riders put in the back of their trucks to make a **** storm of sparks.

Well I didn't buy paint today, I'll do that Monday. Today I had a late start so I didn't get paint or anything. I have the compressor, palm sander, spray guns, 80-220-500-1500 grit sand paper, extra paint cup, gun holder, fiberglass kit from a while ago, putty knives, sanding block, and I forgot the water separator but I will get that when i get the paint. Pissed me off because I took the time and gas to drive over to the shop and take it off the sand blaster and then I left it sitting on a car. Stupid! Now I have to go all the ways back there and grab it. Hopefully O-Rileys is open Sundays, actually I know it is, and I'll get a half gallon of aircraft stripper and start getting the car down to bare metal. Pick up at least the primer on Monday so I can cover the car within 24 hours of being exposed.

Yah I know on their site they had like a Nova or something, a Vette, and a bike. Yes, it was the orange car with the black cowl hood. Had some tiny 4.38 diff and was a beast.

Thats some good info! If I have extra stuff, say epoxy primer, should I spray several coats of it? From what I see they sell it by the gallon with a quart of hardener/reducer or whatever. Thats an awful lot. Someone had posted the steps: "Ok, so paint: Strip car. Metal filler. (wicked hard to use, don't use it unless you have to.) Epoxy primer. (if you are not using an epoxy primer designed to be filled over, DON'T PRIME YET) Body filler. Spot putty. (VERY VERY LITTLE) Primer. Sealer. Basecoat. (this is your color coat, stop here for single stage) Pearl/Candy. (if used) Clearcoat." If I do have left over epoxy and can't use several coats, can I use it for the primer coat over the bondo and then some sealer or do I need epoxy primer and then regular primer? I'm not too worried about the shine or anything on this car. I saw Big-Phils rustoleum black job and sure, it isn't a perfect mirror finish, it has some reflection but not amazing. The point is that the car is painted and looks good. Thats all I'm aiming for so cheap auto paint is fine with me, I wouldn't use rustoleum though for my own reasons.

Whatever happened to I think its Dave Rebello's son and his 3.2L. There was a site with pictures, specs, and a bunch of youtube videos on it and now I can't find it nor can I find the youtube videos. Some of the videos included a drive in the car, engine dyno, chassis dyno, etc. This is pissing me off not being able to find it!

Honestly I think lead is a lost cause because I have no idea how to work with it...

Well whatever happens needs to happen before Tuesday so its like a time crunch... I may just fill the entire area in until next paint job years from now. I can imagine this bondo is more than 10 years old.

Also, Lets discuss using fiberglass resin rather than bondo. I wouldn't mind doing this since I don't have any large dents to fill.