josh817

Alright guys I have been stacking up so much stuff its about time for me to install all of it! This is what I have: 1. EDIS-6 ignition system 2. Megajolt Lite Junior 3. Disk brakes 4. 3-2 header with 1 5/8" primaries 5. Rear spoiler 6. 280z Voltmeter Things I am looking into getting soon: 1. Two 2" or 2.25" pipes 2. Rebello head and cam Alright so, I have already built my MJLJ and rev limiter. I opted to build it myself so I could learn how to solder and save $40. My Physics teacher let me stay in after school and use his soldering iron since the one I have is just the plug in type and his is the adjustable heat type. Couple of days after school everything turned out great. I bought a full EDIS-6 system from a guy that sells 4-6-8 systems. I received wires, coil, VR sensor, trigger wheel, and the module. For under $200 I now have an accurate ignition system with rev limiter! To install it I will follow Braaps setup for the trigger wheel: He gets a 2 row pulley and cuts off the wall of the second row. The trigger wheel can then be pressed onto the pulley and tack weld it if needed. Now, with that said these are my problems... When I go to take my pulley off, the motor will be in the car. I guess I will use a mallet to hit it off but getting back on may be a bugger so I may need to pull the radiator. Ok but problem, the pulley seals off the front cover. My motor is still fresh (first oil change), can I reuse that pulley seal in the timing cover or will I have to take that entire cover off and replace it... My dad says I may be fine since its a fresh motor but if it wasn't fresh he would replace it. The seal is put in from the back though so timing cover must come off... If that is the case then I will cut the oil pump spindle, probably replace the pump, change oil, change water, and obviously replace gaskets. I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO AVOID THAT THOUGH! Also, I will need to send the pulley off to the machine shop since I do not have a press. As long as I schedule a time with him, I can drop it off and get to work on the front cover. While the water is drained I can hook up the heater core (hopefully its not bad). This brings me to another problem, VR sensor placement. I still need to read up on how much gap is needed between it and the trigger wheel, I heard its very forgiving. In order to not wait a month for Eric to do his thing at the machine shop I must have everything ready. The trigger wheel spacing all depends on where you mount the VR sensor. I think I will make use of the A/C bolts and make a plate, we have some angle iron and flat iron I can work with. I already know I don't want it near the alternator though and I'll just make sure the wires are secure and protected from header heat. Heat shouldn't be a problem though, they will be ceramic coated. I'm using the TPS off of my ZXT manifold from the old motor. I chose TPS rather than MAP due to the radical cam (and soon even more radical Rebello cam). Another problem I am having is finding a source of shielded wire. I don't want anything online and it needs to be under 14 gauge. About the size of a cigarette pack! It will mount under the glove box since I made the 280z plastic glove box fit in my 240z. I hate that cardboard crap! I think the coils will go on the firewall. I'm not really into spending a good amount of money on custom length wires... Alright so I received 4 wheel disk brakes from a member on here. He was VERY generous to me! VERY! I had a P90A head with an extra set of hydraulic lifters and he traded me that for the brakes! PLUS he bought me NEW rotors and brake pads! I felt really spoiled after the trade however I couldn't really help him with anything since he went over to the RB side, but he was happy to help another member out. Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the calipers, they are at the shop because I was sand blasting them. Now I will need rebuild kits, RED caliper paint, and whatever is needed to convert over ie: master cylinder, bias valve, longer studs, spacers. I do hope these brakes fit in my 14" Supra wheels... They're vented rotors in the front and then Maxima rotors/calipers in the back I do believe. Rears Fronts Now exhaust, right now I have a 6-1 header however for a street car, 3-2 would be better. Shift that power down lower a little bit plus help with scavaging with alternating pipes for firing cylinders. I bought the 1 5/8" primary header from a member on here for $75 shipped. Yes, it does have air injector bungs but I don't care as long as they don't interfere with the intake manifold. I don't have a picture of the headers but they're off being ceramic coated. Once they're done I am switching from one 3" pipe to dual 2.25" pipes with glasspacks. I would say a 2" pipe as the difference between 2.25 and 2" is +- the same amount of area as the current 3" pipe. With the EDIS-6 ignition and new exhaust I will have a dyno day to get some numbers. This leads me into my future plans... Rebello street port P90 with a .525 cam or whatever grind he has of that. I'm running a .490"/290º Schneider cam right now and don't want to get too crazy and if my dyno numbers are higher than 220hp I will not go for his head, rather I will wait until next motor. This however is a $1500 set back, can't complain performance is pricey sometimes. I ported my head but I think my port job was only mild. When I change out heads, I can reuse this metal headgasket right...? As you can see I'm trying to plan everything so that I don't have to go back in and replace a gasket/part ten times over... I'm still having a hard time justifying such spending on a head and then I will probably have to go out and spend a ton more for 45mm carburetors. I may just get another P90 head and spend a lot of time on porting it myself however once the initial cost of a good head is spent there aren't anymore expenditures. Lets just say I'm still thinking about it... My urge to want to beat everything on the street drives me but I tell myself, if thats the case, go back to a turbo or get an RB. Next up is body work... Oh boy... I've been avoiding this for a year... However! I am REALLY excited to dive in now! Spring break is next week and all my buddies are leaving so I can get some really good time in to sand, prime, and Bondo. I will go with Rustoleum paint I think or some cheap auto paint. The sweet news is that once again I get a major break since my dad owns his own shop. He has the sander and such and then the lady who does his body work said I can use her spray booth and all their equipment. Just buy the paint from her and tell her when! Right now I have many grommets to purchase as I think the firewall has like one decent gromet left. Floor plugs are needed too. I bought a rear spoiler however I was surprised that there was no info nor any help from members on how to mount the damn thing! It was hollow so I was like how do you mount this to the car... Instead, I came up with my own way which I'm not particularly fond of but hey what else? Buy some "Great Stuff" I think it is, its spray foam that seals off crap outside, expands and hardens. I inserted some wooden blocks (wish they were metal) and I will put inserts into the wood and then screw into the inserts. Now my only problem is, does this mount flush with the end of the hatch or is it .5-1" UP on the hatch? It won't sit flush with the hatch if you have it sitting evenly with the bottom of the hatch... Approach the spoiler with screws from inside the hatch. Now some more body work problems is that my drivers window will not roll up properly. If I roll it down, come time to roll it up, the front end goes up before the rear end. I have to sit there with a screw driver and wedge it up, then crank it up more, wedge it more. People say its off its tracks, no. I took it apart 3 times and it still does it. Strange thing is that it wasn't progressive. One day, rainy and nearly late to work of course, it won't roll up. Didn't slam the door that day or anything... I have the proper 240z door on the passenger side and a 260/280 on the drivers side. I would like matching doors so if anyone has a 240 drivers door here in the DFW area with no rust or big dents, I will trade + money or buy OR if you have a good 260/280 door that works too. I'm anal about matching stuff. The interior will receive truck bed liner and metal door panels. The insides of the doors where the window sits will be sprayed with this wax stuff I was told about or Rustoleum because my biggest fear is having time/rust take its toll on a part of the car that will eventually be very hard to find or very expensive. I don't care about comfort, I'm in there to drive not **** around. Right now the fumes are a bit much in the car and I know two things. My tail light assembly is popping out and my vapor tank hoses are original so replace the hoses, easy. The tail light, should I just add some caulking to it and move on? Paint scheme will was initially something nutso but I decided to go with an aggressive yet more calm look. Red with black stripes, but a dark red. I don't think Z's look good with an orange-ish red. I want this type of red which I guess is kind of orange in the light..: One thing thats going to annoy me is that I'm not pulling glass out to paint so anything in there will be whatever color it is now... I'll pull the hatch, doors, hood, airdam, etc though. Speaking of airdams, mines pretty rough. Do you advise using Bondo to cover up those cracks or should I get on it with more fiberglass? I would also like metal headlight buckets but I'm not sure if its a good idea to bolt two materials together. I absolutely hate fiberglass but this will have to do. Its the same airdam as the car above, Type III with side skirts although I don't really like the skirts so when I strip the car down I may just leave them off. This thread will have a walk through/progress posts in it as I go along. I think bodywork is the most I will do until I am out of college. I want suspension but its a street car and I don't want to get too hot and heavy until I get out. I am trying to keep the car at its purest. Thats probably the reason why I don't want any other motor but an L engine. The interrior will be stripped, only heater and radio (though I may take the radio out). It will be light and quick however not insane wheel spin quick. To end this awfully long post I will add that my exhaust is for sale when the new one gets put it. It is a 3" pipe all the way through and 3" ID/OD one chamber Flowmaster with tip. The pipe has a 3 bolt flange connecting it to the ceramic coated 6-1 headers. I know the pipe is a bit big so if you turbo guys want the pipe it will work well for you. The connection from header to pipe is right by the bell housing so just have a downpipe ready and hook her up. Also, my old ignition will be for sale; thats an electronic dizzy, coil, and HEI module. Bolt and wire it right up and you are good to go. PM if anyone is interested in this stuff, I will be putting them in the For Sale section eventually. Anyone in the DFW area be aware that I am now working for my dad in his shop for $15/hr. I have a few customers however I am wanting to expand and build up a reputation. I will do motor rebuilds for anyone, whatever you want L4 or L6 (doing a U20 Datsun 2000 motor right now... that caught me by surprise) If you are interested in giving me the opportunity to build you a good motor just shoot me a PM and we can go from there. ***What I need from someone with MS or something is a general ignition table for my Megajolt system so I can get the car started and running. Megajolt provides a 10x10 table and you can set whatever increments of advance you want. I will do 10%-100% TPS with whatever RPM.*** Thank you in advance for any help you guys can provide while I go through this! I'm sure there will be many questions. See yah later, Josh

Sounds delicious! I believe a 206hp L24 can be had. Your preparation supports those numbers and everything. The 240 in our vintage racing club has a 250hp motor in it so a gain of 50hp from that bumped up compression and race fuel makes sense. The responsiveness of your motor is REALLY nice. Hell, I may have to start building up my spare l24 block and attempt those figures... However, I would probably hound on the motor daily like you did in your video, things probably wouldn't last too too long. By the way, nice job on making feel like a boo with my 3.1L probably making the same amount of power. >_<

You know you don't have to go his route... Just get a Tee fitting from the hardware store and screw it into the oil pressure hole, this way you have pressure and oil in the same spot. I have a Tee that came with mine however I'm using it for a low pressure light, but they should come with any l28et I THINK since the oil to the turbo comes from there. Atleast mine did.

That was easy enough. >_>

Since everywhere I go has to be a joke perhaps this helps? Put your cool face on, they'll leave you alone. It doesn't make much sense to me to put it BACK on and cross your fingers...

Check out all your options while gas is still relatively cheap to have someone or yourself go pickup a car from somewhere else!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Bmw-2002-with-a-BIG-turbo_77447.htm And then I forgot about this beast: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/BMW-1502-Turbo_67070.htm

Nahhhh its too done up for a little car like that. I wouldn't make it showy and all if it was a road car because then people will want to race and that car isn't straight line performance at all. :/ However... I have seen a video of some dudes putting a giant turbo on some BMW 4 banger motor in that car and it burns rubber for like a 1/4 mile. Haha

Observe: http://dumpalink.com/videos/An_engineers_guide_to_cats-jl67.html

Take your pick? Although I think the one with the headers is ours... Interior stuff will be a ***** because it all has to be authentic BMW unless you want different seats and such. We have some Weber 45mm carbs but not selling, however I think we did pick up a Weber DGV with the manifold. Get your stuff off of ebay. We sold tons of the interior stuff for like $10 on there. The only things that went really high was the carpet set and the uh *cough* bumpers which sold for $600... >_> We only paid $800 for the car. Haha! Score! I'll check our pile-o-**** to see if you need anything. We also have the 4 speed tranny (although you can use a 320i 5 speed with some modifications), long nose diff with its mounting arm thing, and some other stuff. Check in with the ad on this car, the driver owns that place and is like the biggest BMW junkyard in Austin: For motor, suspension, and body mods/parts check out: http://www.bmpdesign.com/home.php http://www.bmw2002.com/ For any build help or pictures of the car in pieces: http://bmw1602.lostbrazilian.com/v1/viewer.php?albid=211&stage=2 And the only people in CVAR that have crews are the Geisers and Bigger Hammer formula vee team. They own several cars and all use radio sets and stuff but its a vee so its like... yah ok. You see very few open trailers anymore. Most are giant enclosed ones with a motor home too. I'm still in a tent... Some of them have already won a championship in their original car so they go out and buy a crazy car and come for fun. They don't get counted in the points standing. Him and 3 others do the formula atlantic cars. During that race I spotted a mullet. I casually acted like I was taking pictures of the Corona Formula Atlantic car. The mullet never saw it coming as he was too busy talking to the man in a wheel chair, who is ALWAYS there, who likes to tell stories which never happened and also enjoys telling me to have kinky sex before I get fat and maybe even end up in a wheel chair like him. That is, even though he openly admitted to having kinky sex while in the wheel chair. I couldn't eat dinner after that. Hey look, a s130 in the background! He found a biker couple of which you couldn't tell that the female was a female and I'm not sure why they even came. The bike swooned the mullets brain until... He became utterly joyous and jumped on the bike. The mullets curiosity ensued. The owner was nice enough to hold the mullets alcoholic beverage in a styrafoam container from a place which doesn't sell alcoholic beverages. Finally the mullet couldn't take it anymore so he asked politely to "start the ***** up". The mullet blipped the throttle to hear its tone. The sound of the motorcycle made the mullet very happy. It was just so perfect and I was so thoroughly impressed with the series of events, it made my night. Sorry for hijacking this a bit...

Ah dude that sucks a little. It WAS going to be my first car but then I got a Z so Dad had tons of ****. We still have like 2 or 3 sets of trim, 2 motors, steering wheel, original wheels, suspension, gas tank, DID have a full carpet set, the seats are torn but we have them, etc. I'll have to call my dad up and see. The interior stuff may all be gone but we will have some suspension and other goodies I bet. And yes, CVAR is full of money bags and some cheaters whether it be cheater motors or cheater fuel. 4 Porsches sit up front in the pack. They are suppose to be all tightly packed with the Z somewhere in there however one of them laps EVERYONE within a 20 minute session, he's running a cheater 3.5L I do believe however when they go to volume check it apparently it only registers as a 2.7 or a 3L... Something weird you can do with Porsches apparently. The other 3 stay half a lap in front of everyone and they run illegal gas, and its very obvious when they scream by sounding like an F1 car... The other guys like Group 7 I think it is with the muscle cars. One dude is running an original FIA camaro or something like that and he rapes everyone except a BB Vette, Pantera, FIA Porsche (apparently they throw that in with the muscle cars), and a Lola with a Cosworth motor... When they get going its pretty fun to watch. Just 2 weeks ago was an event, 1st of the season and some guy brought his Lister Maseratti. Only one of one ever made and he paid several million dollars for it. Why would you race that?! Was pretty quick though, they told us to enfisize the blue flag if anyone was even near him. Several original factory GT-500 race cars that are like a quarter million a pop. Its hideous the amount of money in the club now. In 1993 when my dad was racing he had $3500 in his car and made 2nd on the track 1st in points since 1st place on the track was running smaller wheels. http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/?action=view&current=CIMG0914.flv You'll hear the wrong fuel Porsche first, then a proper flat 6: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=20kagyo&s=3 http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=w5mo0&s=3 Another FIA camaro... this time with lots of fancy air ducting work: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2agruw&s=3 Pics of the cars: http://www.hart-photography.com/photocart/index.php?do=photocart&viewImage=429263 http://www.hart-photography.com/photocart/index.php?do=photocart&viewImage=423625 I would have put them in as a viewable picture but its copyright so you know... RTz was it? The 510 was kicking ass with its 1.6L at the time too? I said 2L because I know there was a time that the BMW was dominating its class but the 510 was out in 1968 along with the BMW so I just said 2L because if the BMW of dominating, and the 510 is out with it then it made sense in my head that the 510 didn't rape until they put in a 2L... Hm.. That whole sentence was confusing but I'll just agree with you anyways since you're an Agent. :/

... yah just said that dude, however kudos for figuring that out from the clues. I was baffled until I read about it somewhere.

Notch marks the front so you don't put them in backwards. However you are running an RB aren't you... haha

I agree. Pistons are cheap, I wouldn't go with used ones unless that block was already honed/bored for them. Also, there looks to be a big gash in the deck surface in the picture of your block...

I beg to differ good sir. I have one myself which we are prepping for the CVAR race club. When the 2002's came out they dominated in the B Sadan production (I think its . It wasn't until the Datsun 510 with its 2 liter motor that it started getting raped. In CVAR we have several BMW 2002's and the one proper race car (as the other 5 use theirs as a hot road car too so its not a permanent track car) keeps up and sometimes beats the original 1970 C production Z with his 250hp motor! Of course this is probably because the guy driving the BMW has a 5 speed tranny and a LSD while the Z has a 4 speed with a 3.9 open rear end... On the flip side, the BMW 2002 was one of the "super sedans" and people loved the handling. Thats where it made all of its lap time up really since I doubt the motor made enough power to push the box on wheels very fast... Or you can just put another motor into it... Rotary, small v8, etc. The engine bay is wide but narrow and when you go to pull the motor, it drops out of the bottom. We learned that the hard way when we tried using a hoist and the motor wouldn't fit through the top. I'm sitting there thinking damnit, the Germans have created another vehicle that has me utterly baffled, thinking they built the car around the motor. It never struck me until I saw a Mercedes SLR having its front suspension with motor mounted, jacked up into position under the shell. Speaking of shell, they're stupid light too. We lifted the stripped down shell onto a roll around with our own hands! Running like an 1800lb weight class I think. Then again mine is a 1608 with a 2 liter so basically a really light 2002. And yes, parts are expensive however I think you will find that ebay is your friend and that a lot of the 70's BMW's have interchangeable ****. The 5 speed we run is from a 320i for instance. Besides, its BMW, of course they're expensive! Of course they handle well!

Well lets think like this... I COULD get a head ported and basically copy it on another head myself. Just a thought. I just really want as much power out of this motor as possible before the motor is a bit old and ready for a rebuild... Well... kind of dumb, pickup some junk cores and cross sectioning them would be much better. There are pictures of those floating around however you have to scale them properly. I tried to and based my work off of what I thought was safe. However... if I'm going to be putting lots of time into a head... make it something sweet like a KA frakenhead there are too many unknowns I would hate to mock-up something to run the cams and such because of all the forces, speed, and how important of a role they play... However... buying die grinder heads are cheap and I hear the electric ones are better than air powered ones so I wouldn't have to get a compressor. Men, this leads into the subject of "Its about time I start gathering up a tool collection." As much as I would hate to mention it, I think if my daddy ever passed away, his tools wouldn't be handed down. Step mom is a gold digger, she would probably sell them. If I want my own shop I guess it should start now. BUT if its a Datsun shop then I will stick with only metric! Haha I do love my metric sets.

Well lets think like this... I COULD get a head ported and basically copy it on another head myself. Just a thought. I just really want as much power out of this motor as possible before the motor is a bit old and ready for a rebuild...

But I like car stufffffff. Nooooooo mommyyyyy. We'll just have to wait for the dyno I guess.

Because I have already built a stroker motor and I would like to keep it that way. :] I WOULD do any of the other options however I wanted something unique. My biggest issue was wiring. I can't stand wiring and I don't know ANYTHING about MS or any of that stuff. I am however considering going over to a turbo again. Something small because my comp. is at around 8.5-9:1. I still don't know though, I don't know how much boost or anything. I don't know anything about fuel injection and I already have an EDIS-6 setup however I think MS can run it. Making a high 200hp motor on carbs excites me and thats all I want. I never wanted 300+hp, tires won't hook up, things break, I can't fund that.

Well now not to stir up some trouble. I'm going to give you call and figure out what you can do. Its a split between Rebello, You, or 1 fast z. I know I want his cam, and if I wind up like ZRedBaron I think it was with like a 180hp stroker, well I will be pissed and a new head will be a must while this motor is still fresh. The KA head sounds exciting and it may be a long term project with my spare block, however I think I want to keep the origins of the Z species on my motor. Once you go twin cam I don't see why not go out and buy an RB and put ITB's on it or whatever. Plus it kind of either knocks you out of certain classes for racing or it knocks you up into an unlimited class where you get raped by other fellers. When I called up I asked for race and street port prices however race port probably won't be suitable for me since that flow will only be good for the higher RPM's. $1500 was a quote to have a P90 core street ported and his cam although I think I want a full setup due to (like you said) the nature of his cam and the spring rates involved. If I get a junkyard head, tear it down, have them do their thing and send it back with cam and springs, have rockers sent off for resurfacing and buy some swirl valves I would be good. $700 sounds on the pricey side for the head I have now too. I don't think I would go anything lower than $500 though. The cam setup + good clean head costs more than that, now add the solid conversion (only like $30) and a mild port job. Meh who knows. Everything is up in the air right now. I do know dave Rebello has a very good reputation however he is my goal setter. I'm 18 years old now, have little but SOME interest from others on building their motors. I'm looking to build up a reputation and hell maybe in 10, 20, 30 years I'll be a competitor of Rebello? Just have to keep my nose clean, keep the quality high, and make sure everyone is happy. Personally, I am not particularly fond of outsourcing my motor parts to others. I would much rather prefer to port another head myself but porting and polishing and L series head isn't a shops every day work and I'm not into the business of porting a head without having proof numbers to back my work up. If I can't port a head and send it out with a card showing its specs then I don't want to do it. Simply put, I refuse to port heads for others but I have enough spare time to do one for myself... as you can see I have doubts with the flow of mine though.

I'm at a cross roads... college is coming up in a couple of months, money is flowing, my head may not be flowing, spend $1500 on a port job? I ported and polished my head myself, however it was my first head so I have no idea what I was doing really besides the basics. Now I'm worried that I'm only feeling like 200hp rather than maybe uhhhh 260ish? The things I am considering is that I can sell off my head since it has a Schneider cam and I can call my port job mild, P90A solid lifter conversion. I am also considering that spending big money on a head is a one time thing unless you mess it up somehow. I just can't bring myself to spending that much money that quickly. I'm thinking well... I can just wait until the next motor to put the head on however who knows when that will be. I'd hate to wait until the last leg of my motor to install a new head... Tell me what you guys think of this plan: Dyno day coming up soon, if power is under 220hp, get Rebello head (because I'd hate to make good power and then spend $1500 to make 10 more hp). I think I can safely ask for ehhhh $700-$800 for this P90A head? Not even 2000 miles on it, mild port, unshrouded valves, polished chambers, .495" 290º cam, solid lifters, ready to bolt on. Save me some money there I guess. I don't know. For some reason I had the urge to call them today and now all my plans just got bumped down one spot to make room for a head which I really want but as we all know, its damn expensive. I WOULD sit down and do more work on a head myself however I don't have a flow bench and I think the likeliness of getting 200cfm for the intake and 140cfm for exhaust would be slim with me on a learning curve. Thoughts? EDIT: Forgot one more idea, lets do consider that $1500 all at once is painfull however $2000 over a period of time isn't so bad. We've seen 1 fast Z's DOHC KA head... Maybe with some engineering one could be done... agian. Then I would have uhhhh 300 cfm? Highly unlikely, I would have to get working head gasket unless I can just use a normal Datsun one, then I would have to somehow get my intake/exhaust onto the KA bolt pattern... Then figure out cams, and finally throtle linkage. Hmmmmm....

F54 casting. I was confused by that too when when hooking the pickup... Something wrong there?

Yah I just thought about that and agree... Thats a formula for spinning a bearing.

My bearings snapped in and didn't fall out really. Do what islanddozer said and don't tap them in. Well... Tap them in just enough to that the threads on the bolts catch, then gradually tighten down. OR use the threaded hole at the top of the rear cap (also on the thrust bearing cap) which was meant for pulling them out with a tool that you screw into the hole. Instead of pulling it out, screw it down. This way you aren't hitting anything really.

Yah I thought that to myself. 1972 and the 240 went to 73 so I checked the "Late model" schematic and saw the acc. relay. Thats good. That means there is my T/S flasher, acc relay, and I think the other on is the 4 way hazard flasher. I won't talk bad about the previous owner since he is a member on here but lets just say he did the turbo swap when he was 17 or 18 like I am now. Right now I am fighting my teenage temptation to just make everything work and don't care about aesthetic things but apparently, he gave into the temptation. Its been 2 years since I bought the car so of course he is like dude I don't know you should know these thigns by now and I'm like ... I'm trying to figure it out so I know... There is a reason why I went to carbs. :] 3 wires from alternator, oil pressure, water temp, coil, and electric fan. Thats it! Now add 10 more for EDIS-6... Things we have resolved/safely assumed: Headlight relay - drivers side near coil Voltage regulator - passenger side near alternator Accesory relay - passenger foot well All that is left is whatever is on the firewall. I would say horn relay however the horn relay should have 3 wires/terminals. I guess the easy way to figure this out is unplug it! EDIT: I was wrong about the plug next to the coil. I'm starting to wonder if this was an automatic tranny Z. I unhooked that plug and the one on the firewall and my horn/lights still worked. The horn really, according to the FSM is under the dash. The thing I thought was a 4 way flasher isn't really... I don't know what it is but my turn signals stil work with it unplugged. It likes very very very similar to the buzzer however the buzzer is suppose to be on the drivers side. I will hook it up to 12v and see if it does anything. If not then maybe its broken. Then again if you look in the pictures they are 2 green wires. Well check this out: Maybe the thermo switch looks just like awfully like the buzzer? Now the only problem is why does that thing next to the buzzer look like a turn signal flasher... >_< Near the coil, the connector I was so sure of being a headlight relay: I also found something worth checking into. In the General section of the FSM it says if the model is HLS30 then it should have a 3.9 rear end. :] Mmmmmm although I would like 4.11. Another good hint that this car may have had an automatic transmission is because the reverse lights aren't hooked up. I say this because if he put the new T5 tranny in and such and wires were dangling down below for the lights, then logic says hey, hook it up its right there. However when I was down there I didn't see any cut or hanging wires. Perhaps its because the automatic transmission model had a inhibitor switch...