blue72

Aww man, you must have gotten that one from Parowan. I saw the sale ad in the local paper but the seller never called me back about it after I left a message. What other parts have you got available from it now that the engine is gone?

Ouch, those photos you shared show way more damage than when I saw it on Jalopnik yesterday. Here's hoping you can find a clean rolling shell soon.

I let my hosting lapse, but everything should be back up now. Looks like I've got some more old PMs to delete.

Sorry about that, I just barely got new hosting and had to point the nameservers to the right place. I'm working on making sure everything is back up across the board. Looks like I still have to delete a bunch of old PMs though to make sure messages can get to me once more.

I believe that I've done it without removing anything but the pan bolts and the perhaps the pickup tube bolts. Remove all the pan bolts, wiggle and position the pan until it either comes free, or you can remove the pickup tube bolts with an open ended wrench.

I never had any problem with the seal either. It is pretty tough rubber. With some kind of homemade creativity you might be able to fish the disk out of the booster without taking it off the firewall.

How about that there newfangled Mad Max Fury Road movie? Here in the B-roll footage at 5:45

Yes, clean fuel system. That was the biggest headache on my 510. I took the carb off and removed an inch of varnish out of the float chamber alone, then cleaned all the other passages and put some new gaskets on. Mine had sat for 20+ years without running and no one had drained the gas out before abandoning it. I actually had to spend an entire afternoon with carb cleaner, compressed air and a wire coat hanger just to open up the fuel hardline from the gas tank to the engine bay. The engine had seized solid (breaker bar + cheater bar + jumping up and down on cheater bar solid), but some ATF in the cylinders + time got it rotating smoothly again. The only other thing I did was new spark plugs and wires. I didn't even change the oil and it started right up.

Try SEM brand vinyl dye. You might be able to find a color that is pretty close to the original. I've used it to turn black and tan interior peices to white for my 240Z. They happen to have a white that is exactly the same color as the original interior from 40+ years ago.

Hot water should be pulled out of either the block port (currently labeled as "heater outlet to block") or cylinder head and then returned to the water pump. In the US, the hot water was pulled out of the cylinder head (currently labeled "heater inlet here"), but the block port works too. How yours is currently set up, it is pulling hot water out of the block, passing it through the heater core, then returning it to a tee fitting that is returning the water back to your water pump via the external bypass. The reverse of how you have it labeled. Switching your hoses on the heater inlet/outlet might help increase flow. Coolant goes through your intake manifold to warm it up on cold days an prevent icing. From there a line comes out the back of your intake manifold, tees with the water coming from the heater, and returns to the water pump, acting as an external bypass to help prevent cavitation before the thermostat opens. If you tried to route it by pulling water out of the head, and putting it back in the block, then it would probably mostly sit stagnant. Pulling it out of the block, or head, then letting it route back to the external bypass is the OEM way it was done and should flow pretty well.

On the opposite side of the block from where the N42 is cast, at the back of the engine there will be a flat spot with the engine displacement (L20, L28, etc...) and engine serial number. Its on the same side as the cast cylinder head number, just at the back of the block. Since it is an N42 block and head, I'm going to go ahead and guess it is probably an L28, but not 100% certain as far as foreign markets go. I've only ever seen one or two pictures of the NAPS twin butterfly progressive throttlebody. Those never came to the US, so not many of us over here will be able to help much on that front.

280ZX in this 1983 music video by Midnight Star, spotted at 1:43. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gomCkCbKHA4#t=103

I've got a set available too, just in case.

Hmm, let's see here. Bring up google.com, paste in image URL, perform reverse image search...... Yep, there's more info out there. One particularly interesting thread on another Z forum about the construction techniques for these cars.

Yep, Tabco still makes replacement panels for the S30 cars. I used one of their pieces on my '72.