Nismo280zEd

I'm a big fan of dunlop I'd recoment the sp9000 very good tire and good mileage 2. Excelent in the rain also.

Actually i was over at NTB yesterday and they do have a 15x6 or a 15x7 rim that fits the car w/ no mods. Other than that you have panasports and hondas

Thanks, but i was trying to avoid having wheels custom built. I ended up finding a rims 5Zigen makes a race wheel called the "Pro-N1" they have 17x7.5 and 17x8.5 rims in the correct bolt pattern. Thanks for your help though. -Ed

Ok i have a minor problem. I can't seem to find any 17x8" rims in a 4 lug design w/ matching 17x7 of the same style. I need something bigger to fill the flares i have in the rear, but stock fenders up front. Anybody know of any brands besides Momo? thanx

how much did your roll your fenders? i've got about a 2 1/2" flare and i need to know how big a tire to stuff under it. i'm thinking something big prolly close to a 315 maybe? any ideas? i'm gonna use ross's spacers and was thinking a 17x8" rim would do nicely

I'll check the TC rod bushings tomorrow. But the rotors are brand new maybe 1500 miles max on them. And i have stainless steel lines, but i will check for a kink you might be on to something there. Although i would think i would have noticed that when bleeding... never hurts to check. Thanx

I'll check the TC rod bushings tomorrow. But the rotors are brand new maybe 1500 miles max on them. And i have stainless steel lines, but i will check for a kink you might be on to something there. Although i would think i would have noticed that when bleeding... never hurts to check. Thanx

It's a 78 280z my car does drift a little to the right, but i don't know who to trust for an alignment. but how would that effect the front brake bias?

But wouldn't i notice that in daily driving when no braking?

about two or three months ago i noticed my driver side brakes weren't really doing there job the car was pulling a little to the right when the brakes were pressed. After bleeding the brakes it helped but still pulled and gradually got worse. The pads were in good condition so that wasn't the problem. So i replaced both calipers on the front of the car w/ new pads and new rotors. I bleed the brakes and began to wear them in after about a month the pulling was twice as bad as ever, large amounts of brake dust show up on the passenger wheel but none were on the driver. I figured they must have sent a faulty caliper and switched it out for another new one. After the pads finally broke in on the driver side the braking improved quite a bit, but still pulls to the right a little. I was under the impression the way the car is setup is the master cylinder controls both backs and both fronts? so y would my driver side front caliper not be working properly if the right front is? Is there a hydraulic balance adjustment i'm not aware of? thanx, Ed

ok the clutch came in today.. earlier than i had excpected so i'll start work saturday on it.

I think it's the clutch disk. i think a piece of it broke off in the housing. After all that clutch is 17 years old. Centerforce makes a great clutch to take a beating for that many years. got a new Centerforce 2 to replace it on it's way.

it's relatively new about 3 months old.. but i'll check it out

Ok, I droped my tranny about a 2 weeks ago now. the clutch had about 1/2" of pad on it everything looked good. then this week sometimes it will lock me out of reverse and first. checked the fluid it's fine, so tonight, i had to accelerate pretty hard to get on the feeder after eating at a restraunt. And it locked me out of all the gears till i slowed down to about 30 the it let me in 3rd. Then the pedal felt funny.. shifted to fourth, no grinding at all.. then the pedal went soft when i put it in nuetral, coasted into a nearby gas station, nothing dripping, fluid level fine, but noises coming from where the clutch is. Like random squealing noises. The car sits there running while i try to find a clue as to what happend. NOthing so i figure ok i'm gonna put it in gear and try to drive home. Goes into first w/ a clunk no grind but a "clunk" noise pedal feels a little stiffer now. drive home w/ no problems shifting what so ever. Just "shimmied" a little and made a funky noise when driving in gear. Got home looked w/ a flashlight for a clue. Nothing at all. I've never had a clutch go out on me but common sense tells me something isn't right when you put a little pressure on the clutch and you can feel pulsating vibrations through the pedal. If the clutch is going... how come it shifts fine?

Well i guess nobody knows, But let me know if your interested in buying a 78 280z 2+2. I'm thinking about selling it soon. Ed

monday and tuesday of the past week i rebuilt my front brakes and fixed my tranny... to take out the tranny the car had to be raised quite a distance off the ground... i put jacks w/ wood on them under the frame raild, front jacking point, and under the part of the frame just below the radiator the horizontal rail. All the points were tied into the frame, nothing that would put stress on the suspension. Here's the weird part: to take out the tranny you have to take off the exhaust, drive shaft, sway bar, and metal or rubber gaurd under sway bar, and a couple things attatched to the tranny itself. Ok.. so i took it out cleaned it up, check the clutch and some stuff changed the oil and oil seal, put it back in, speced everything, put up exhaust, sway bar, drive shaft, and protector thing. lowered the car, drove around. The car now sits an inch lower in the back the only other thing i did was regrease the grease fittings while the car was up in the air I like it.. i just don't understand y it happend. tire pressure is normal same amount of gas.. just weird. -Ed

I replaced my fusibles links w/ an actual fuse box. Mine was 60 amp for the alternator and 30 amp for the other 3. Heres a great site for EFI diagnostics EFI http://www.type2.com/library/fuel/jetronic.htm incase the link didn't work there's the addy It's for VW but it's the exact same system. ED

ok so i'm doing some late night math tryn' to figure out some spring rates and crap. Cany anybody tell me the spring rates for 78 2+2 stock springs front and rear?

Ok so i went to re-upholstery shops today to get quotes to redo my front seats the way i would like them, but i didn't like the price too well. 995 for leather 770 for fake stuff. So i figured at this price i can get some racing seats and some harneses later. Seeing as i have a 2+2 having acces to the rear is a must for me. The question to stump you is, do all these import racing seat manufacturers have a spec the seats have to meet in safety? would they be allowed in SCCA racing if i ever deiced to run for fun? or are they just pretty plastic with covers that taco when actually used (accident) any info would be great. thanx guys

Check your fuel delivery make sure you pump is good.

... So knowbody knows if a regular 280z drop spring will work on a 2+2 in the rear? aight just checkn.

Well it may sound ghetto to you... but is' just an extra theft deturant as i see it. The following day on that monday i went and put a new pump in my car... from the local Autozone.. i had an extra one actually. When we did that, i left the black wire the way it was.. but clipped the green one going to the pump, and wired it into a fused switch counself i have in my car. There for bypassing relay power. Now i turn my car to on, flip the switch powers up to 75psi and about 1 second the start the car and it drops to about 40 psi. The car has been running like this for about a week now with no problems what so ever. I'm also running only the performance fuel regulator. the oem is not hooked up anymore. So far so good. Just thought somebody could benefit from the knowledge.

Well... i'm using an Oil/water pressure gauge that reads from 0-150psi. so it might be off, but i don't have a regular pressure gauge to stick on the line to test it. Tonight my car died again and after some parking lot diagnosing w/ my friend, we think the pump isn't pumping enough fuel it sounds rather weak. So either... the psi wore out the pump, or maybe electrical surges? or something else? but keep in mind my car did this before i hooked up the peformance regulator. So i don't think that is what caused it.

Well i didn't particularly like the two sets of NGK plugs,not saying they were bad, just didn't like them. I use bosch P-4's now, before that i tried some Splitfires-hated em'... but they sparked no matter how dirty they were. But doesn't it make sense to use a bosch plug on a bosch fuel injection system? just my thought. But then again just about every sensor i've replaced i've replaced it with Bosch. german technology on a jap car.

Ok, the other thread was getn' old. I just recently installed a fuel pressure gauge in my car, and upon installation found out that the 260 dollar performace regulator that you get from msa, can work solo as the only regulator on the car. I thought this fixed my problem, as throttle response was very quick and smooth, but intermittenly it will act like there is a rev limiter on the engine. I run about 50 Psi at idle on my gauge, when you floor the car, the Psi goes up to about 75Psi, then when you let off the Psi goes to about 25. but when it acts like there is a rev limiter, the Psi goes from 50psi, to 25psi when you put the throttle to the floor. So is this a fuel pump problem? or maybe another relay? any ideas?