Nismo280zEd

OK... so it FINALLY STOPED RAINING! i went and measured the sleeves.. they are 5" slong w/ 4 1/2" of thread the springs are 7" long so theoretically... they can be 11" long... and the stock spring on my car measured 10" on the car. so this might work?

you could call MSA and request da info.. or a new bolt

Unfortunatly i have an N47 head which has the steel exhaust tubes in it.. i read on a article on here about porting out the bowls on the exhaust would help it.... ok i took out the valves today and the damn steel tubes go all the way to the seat... so how am i supposed to port steel tubes? right now i'm grinding down the casting on the intakes.. then sanding smooth.. any other ideas to squeeze some flow outta her? ED

OK... so what year is that strut from? The MR2 strut. Also.. MIKE what camber plates are you using?... just food for thought.. but if an MR2 strut fits.. then maybe an MR2 coil-over kits fits? just a thought... ED

ok so i'm bummed out.. I jacked the front of the car up today and held the assembly up to mine... it's about 3" too short so i took off the coil over pieces and i'm starting to wonder it it would even be worth it to use them? or just a buy a 400$ kit from ground kit.

OK so before you even tell me to use the search feature just hold up and read this. My friend got new suspension on his 93 integra... he had a coil-over setup on his car and replaced it w/ a tokico matched strut and spring racing set. He gave me his old strut assembly w/ coilover already on it for free. Now i know the rear i'll have to do some custom work to get to fit.. but the front looks like it will pop right in I was wondering if anybody knew if the strut would be too short? i'll measure tomorrow it's raining right now.. but it only looked like 15" long (just a guess) anybody familar w/ these?

Just about every machine shop you call will tell you the opposite, but the N47 is a better head than the N42. if you compare them stock to stock... the N42 flows better.. but if you do a little porting on the bowl of the intake on the N47 it dramatically outflows the N42.. just my ideas. ED

maybe you can explain your logic... i'm getn a set of ADR Rydox 17x7 for 699 w/ tires and then spacers for about 200 a pair.. now coilovers would be 400 plus another 300 for camber plates? or does your math add up cheaper? very curious soureyecandy@hotmail.com ED

OK... how exactly do you set timing when the car doesn't run? i've set it up so that at TDC the rotor is every so slightly past #1... (this is what my mechanic told me to do) is this right?

I was afraid you guys would say that

anybody used these? sell for 174 in new catalog.. MSA drop springs.. suposedly lower 1.5" I'm gonna get 17's and am debating expensive coilovers.. or these

Any body know what the Wings West rear apron for a 280 looks like? i found on on www.nopi.com for like 171 but they wouldn't send me a pic (go fig) thanx

ok... this one will definatly get ya... aight.. I have a 1978 280z 2+2 it's had problems all summer.. been tryn' to get it reliable. so far.. i have replaced: water temp sensor head temp sensor crank pulley split fire plugs all new injectors New fuel tank numerous fuel pumps fuel pressure regulator added the rising rate regulator New NGK performance wires (cool blue ) all new vacumn lines blocked off egr valve disable accel advance thing on the side of the throttle rod that goes to the vacumn tank new altenator new fuel filter hmm i think thas all the stuff i replaced.. no wait all new timing stuff last weekend (figured while it was sitting there) the car already has on it... CAI intake, big bore TB from MSA, oh yeah.. new airflow meter also, headers, modded cam, 2.5" exhaust along w/ the other stuff i mentioned. The engine cranks... but won't turn over and then ocasionally one cylinder will fire.. w/a huge boom and blue flame out the pipe. I've checked spark.. from plugs and high tension... adjusted timing, really boggled on this one.. tired of replacing parts. any ideas would help me ALOT! oh yeah.. new cap and rotor as well ED

I just got my exhuast redone.. i had the MSA 2 1/2" "turbo" exhaust... gave a nice resonating sound from about 2,300 to 2,600 rpm set off alarmas at that range.. but once your out of that.. you can't really hear it... I just put on new galvanized pipe w/ a Magnaflow "street series" muffler.. sounds really good on the car to me.. cruising revs pretty nice.. put your foot down.. and it sounds like a drag car

It seems the more i do research on this... the cheaper it sounds to just rebuild a ZX engine and drop it in Was kinda tryn' to avoid that... i'm painting a friends car.. so i'll have 2K so spend on this.. the rest i'm kinda savn' for a jump on college. So i'm kinda stuck in this problem of... Keepn' it N/A and tryn' to find another 50 hp some how... or convert to turbo and find around 300hp (thas my target) i thought turbo because of gas milage.. as it is now.. my car breaks too often.. i really need a CLEAN, RELIABLE 300hp.. any thoughts? or am i hopn for a miracle ED

OK... so i was going to put an intercooler on... and run 3-5psi boost w/ OEM 280z injectors. (brand new.. don't wanna get turbos' yet) turbo pistons are just flap tops? compared to the OEM 280z dished pistons? would that kinda boost be safe? can't rebuild engine till after December. Really don't wanna rebuild till i grad from highschool (next may) Am i correct in assuming when you say the P90 head your talkn about the 79-81 turbo head? right? thanx guys ED

OK... so i have a highly modified 78 280z cam, intake, headers, TB, wires, plugs, exhaust.. etc. I'm lookn' for some more power and found out the ZX head will directly bolt to the L28 block. Is this assumption correct? if so... how would the intake work stock 280z intake and use the zx exhaust w/ turbo? anybody done this to my year of car? should be doing all this in october. also.. what PSI are you guys running.. thanx alot guys ED 1978 2+2 N/A for now

wow guys.. thanx for all you help

ok i've got some serious camber problem on my car and i need to get it fixed, i know Ground Control sells camber plates.. but they are kinda expensive. i found some TMC camber plates from www.davetuner.com had anybody used these? or does anybody know of other brands of camber plates? what do you all you coil over guys use? and can you use the camber plates w/ out coilovers.. i won't be getn' my coils for a couple weeks. thanx guys ED

since you guys are so into spacers... maybe you could figure out how big a spacer i need to put on some 17x7 Konig Imagine rims.. as seen in the new MSA catalog.. like the rims.. not the price ED

where did you find 10" coilovers? all i've found are the kits from Ground Control and the stuff that Arizona Z car makes... (not really impressed). is Ross C the name of the company or just a guy? need help... thanx Ed

check out arizonazcar.com they have some whicked brake packages on there

HI... i have a 78 280z 2+2 i'm tryn' to get the whole car about 3" off the ground.. right now the car has performace springs on it.. about 1/2" drop, and i put lower profiles on the front went to a 60 series... my car was on the jack the other day and i noticed my fronts are going bald on the inside only about 1" this means some serious camber adjustments right? will the control arm kit from MSA fix this? of do i order the one that goes ontop of the strut from them or both... i don't wanna drop my car till i get the camber fixed. any thoughts or suggestions? also... could somebody kindly send me an email explaing how to "section a strut" ? i'm a little lost here thanx ED

ok... i still have this Camber problem... in the new MSA catalog they sell a camber kit that adjusts 1.5 degrees of camber change. it installs on the top of the spring into the strut tower, has anybody seen this? Will it work w/ Ground Control Coilovers that i plan to get next week? btw... i have 78 280z 2+2 if it matters Thanx Ed

to give you an idea... the front of my car is 3 1/2" off the ground w/ stock struts and slightly stiffer springs drop about 1/2" i got that low by dropping the tire series. currently running 14x6 panasports, looking to find some spacers and run some 17x7 Konigs. So what exactly is the point of sectioning the strut if you don't gain anymore suspension travel? isn't that kinda a waste of time and money? Ed