Nismo280zEd

If you really want to have some fun and learn alot about everything on cars... go down to your local hobby shop and get an electric or gas powered car. thas how i learned alot. Ed

i was cruising around ross's site last night takn' a look at the new layout and new things to come. and i saw that his rear disk brake kit uses 240sx calipers... but they look really dinky.. so i was wondering if they made a brake upgrade kit from AEM or somebody for the 240sx? any thoughs?

upgraded from fusible links today took about an hour. was really really easy! I'm very happy w/ how clean it looks. you should see the fuse holder i have makes me cry to think i have to hide it in the black box. oh well now i'm rewiring lights... so far so good. happy holidays and merry christmas!

TPS didn't fix it. Still have to install the EFI relay, but it started raining... more tomorrow. Also got parts today to upgrade from fusible links to fuses

There's a company in California that sells one for our Z. Called "JIM Cook Racing" they have a website but i don't have the addy. Last time i looked the kit was about 3,000 and only gave 50 extra horses. Ed

Thanks alot! that's it! I knew somebody out there would know thanks alot i'll have to replace it monday thanks again

so what does that equate to under the car.. when i measured mine i wanted it 3" from the ground to the lower frame rail. which would be another 1/2" drop in front and 1 1/2" drop in back. and i felt i was being conservative, my father's porsche is 2 1/2" off the ground to lowest point but it scrpes going in and outta the drive, but speed bumps are ok if ya go slow.. ya don't have to diagnol them.

Wow i didn't know the 280 doors weighed 40 more lbs each than 240 doors, What made that much more weight? thicker glass? 40lbs is alot if they are identical in shape. ED

Got the new coil installed this afternoon made a very noticeable difference in spark strength. Also i tried the gas cap idea.. didn't help a bit. now that my plugs are firing all the time it seems that my car is running about 35-40 degrees advanced according to the crank pulley. Gonna drop the oil pump this weekend and rotate it around. Gonna replace the fuel filter monday. I'll let you guys know. Also recieved shipment on my TPS sensor so i'll be installing that monday as well.

WOAH!!!! BAD IDEA!!! i have a 95 Ford Taurus SHO. The part yamah built is an abolute amazing piece of work, the rest.. (everything ford touched) is crap! the biggest flaw on that engine is the waterpump that leaks onto the CPS sensor (crank positioning sensor) cause it to overheat and the car will die until it cools off. The engine is nice.. but ford put to many crappy sensors all over it. like i said i have a 95 SHO and it sits in the street for a reason. I would sugest rethinking that idea.. but hey it's your money, and your hassle to find parts.

this isn't as big as you think. it's small about 1" hole and 2" rust on the very bottom, the sides of the fram rail are clean.. no rust. but thanx Ed

well like i said... this will be the second brand new tps sensor i've gotten.. it's on it's way. i'm gonna take apart the old one and see what i can do w/ it when i get the new one. I also recieved shipment on a new coil today. i have a crane fireball PS20 coil. i remember i did the gas cap trick a while back made no difference but hey i'll try it again. also i have brand new fuel pump tank and i cleaned all the metal lines and put new rubbber ones on.. I'll check my fuel filter though. ya never know what's in the fuel!

Negative captain. It does NOT match up w/ any relays in that black box on the passenger fender. but they might have possibly sent me the wrong year? i'll try to post a pick of it. if you want to know y i bought it go here... http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=001102 thas the lastest thread i have posted under Datsun L6 performance forum.

Never thought it would happen to me but it did! saw some major rust breaking through from the floor board down through the frame rail there is about a 2" hole now in the back of the driverside frame rail... i know alot of you have dealt w/ this i was wondering the best thing to do to reinforce? i was thinking like welding almost like a cover over the whole rail? yeah no?

since your good at photoshop, and prolly better than me, and obviously have it readily available, can you come up w/ a nice looking back end? one that would match the front end of that car w/ those sideskirts. I'm looking to make my rear valance soon of fiberglass.

yeah.. but the sr20det motor can handle some serious boost w/ no mods to the engine. It's practically a race engine stock. just play w/ the valves a little.

OK once again i had to walk home from my car tonight. Either these parts fix it or a 280z is gonna be up for grabs shortly! If anybody has been following my posts they know my problem but if you havent i'll tell it again. Pretty much... one day it will start idle fine run like a champ. then next week, next month, or 5hrs later, it will run like crap. won't idle well, then reverse is fine.. but you put it in first and you pretty much dont have throttle. if your lucky you can make it to 3k then shift and make it to 2 1/2k in second then shift and very slowly make it to 2 1/2 in third. you can't give it full throttle usually half or under.. then when it gets really bad like tonight. you can't give it any throttle you can rev it up w/ the clutch in to about 3k then start to let the clutch out and the revs just drop to 1,500. really anoying. any thoughts ideas? have a new coil and tps sensor on it's way (second new tps sensor i've bought) distributor has new pickup coil, air gap set at i think .013 or .13 i set it in the middle of what the book said. New afm, MSA's big bore throttle body 60mm i think, CAI (MSA);ported and polished head; Nissan performance cam from japan, NGK wires (which are crap in my opinion) Split fire spark plugs, gapped at 1 i think. carbon canister removed, a/c removed, egr valve disabled, accelerator dashpot disabled. vacumn bottle disabled. thas pretty much all the stuff that you guys might ask. Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated before i take a baseball bat to it. ( that would be depressing )

Mine has seen a good deal of use i should prolly get another one it's falling apart. maybe one on CD, has anybody tried the one on CD?

Well it doesn't match up w/ any of the relays from under the "black box" on the fender. it's like a double relay w/ about 8 prongs maybe they sent me the wrong one? Ed

come on does nobody know? i don't want to take my whole dash off just to find the damn box. Ed

Once again i feel like a dumbass. When i posted that it was late. i tricked myself even. i looked at the sight again today... you get everything but the springs for like 49$ each. What a bummer huh? I was looking forward to them already. But here is the sight anyways incase you already have springs. sorry guys Dave Turner

The vacumn line is fine now i adapted it for my situation. NO i dont' get heat throught the center vents yet... but i'm gonnna change that. Seeing as i don't have A/C at the moment i'm just gonna hook up the heater output hoses to the vents w/ a T conection from PVC. I'll write a post on it if i ever get the time off from work. Ed

I was gonna buy my coilovers from Ross... but i found a much cheaper site. 200 for all 4 corners nice stuff too w/ your choice of springs. Sorry Ross... but thas 200 i can save toward my adjustable control arms.

i don't supposed anybody could help me locate the location of the EFI relay for my 78 280z 2+2? I was told it was under the steering column and the stock one looks silver? Mine is black and rectangular looking (the replacment). I would much apreciate being able to install the 50 dollar part.

Thanks for the help ful tips. I got it all figured out. I have the vacumn next to the EGR valve going to the forward most solenoid on the passenger side. the other one controls the deacceleration. I have that disabled. right now... the vacumn line from the manifold goes intos the switch right below the solenoid then i have a loop that comes out goes into the solenoid, then comes out of the solenoid and into the firewall. Hot air comes out fine from defrost and the floor. BTW i have the factory manual... it neglects to show a complete vacumn line diagramn like the one tomahawk referenced me two. I also have a Haynes. Thanx guys.. i feel relieved to have finally figured out what those solenoids do. cheers