Samurai7one

http://speedforme.jp/order/ Not sure how new this is but, I like the rear valance and how It covers the bumper shock holes. Maybe they will make one for a 280z. Don't like the vent holes they cut in where the bumper holes are though.

Being the keeper of an old Z with an original uncracked dashboard for the past five years, I have often wondered how mine survived. So, I thought I would ask others who have survivor-dashes how they maintain theirs. My strategy for maintaining it has been two basic rules: 1) first I never apply any armor-all type products. I use just a damp cloth to wipe it off occasionally. Cars that I had in the past where I used dash protectant products, the dashes all cracked. Keeping to the no chemicals rule, I also don't touch it as to put body oils on it that I would need cleaner to remove. 2) This is obvious but, Second is no unnecessary sunlight. My z is garage kept and when I drive it to work occasionally, I put a towel across the dash. Most other driving I do is usually to a car show. Now towel on dash in that case, but I at least I leave the windows down so I don't build up heat. That's what has worked for me anyway. Results, and opinions will vary. Anyone have any good info on keeping these old dashboards from cracking?

LLave, sorry for the slow response. 225/50/15 kumho ecsta AST front and rear. With my T3 adjustable lower control arms all the way in (as short as possible) they were rubbing slightly on the rear. I had to roll the lip up a bit. Now it seems ok, but it's close. Fronts are no problem. 205s would probably clear easy, but that's more stretch than I was looking for.

Here like this: https://youtu.be/meaGMoH4Pmw

On the mikuni phh carbs I can take the top cover off. Then I pull out one of the main fuel/ air jet assemblies. Then using a dial caliper, I use the rod that extends out of the end of the caliper's to measure down from the top of the jet block to the fuel. 23mm is what works for me. Is this possible on the DCOEs?

http://www.shop.upgrademotoring.com/Mikuni-Racing-Screw-Throttle-Valve-40PHH-C60307-MIKC60307.htm?categoryId=-1

Be careful, the threads on those throttle plate screws are peened (usually) and will strip the threads in the throttle shaft as you attempt to remove them. Hope that's not why your screws are damaged. Ask me how I know Recommend you tighten them back down and file/grind off the threaded end of the screws. Then they come out easy. Upgrade motoring is a good source for parts.

I got mikunis and had similar problems with 3K bog. A bump up in pilot jet and main jet improved things a little. But adjusting the fuel level in the bowls (float adjustment) completely solved the problem. It's a free fix, so why not? Measure the actual levels of fuel in the bowls, don't trust the "with the carb top removed, flip it over, measure the gap between it and the floats". That is just a starting point for float adjustment. I don't know what the setting should be on the webers, but try to: 1) make sure the level is consistent across all three carbs 2) try raising the level about 2-3 mm and see what effect it has. Hope that helps

Well I'll give you an "A" for out of the box thinking, as well as effort. Let's see some painted pics.

They had some on eBay in the 4x114.3 pattern. Not there anymore, but they will probably pop back up again in time.

I'm going to be one of those "hated S30 guys" one day! Hopefully

MREDDLE, 3rd Saturday of each month. 8-12a.m. Location changes, so check the Facebook page. I've seen it at NOLA motorsports, The lakefront, and City Park.

15x9 et0 SPD Zuka wheels, bronze with machined lip, from jpngarage.com BC coilovers, T3 adjustable control arms front and rear. A photo from last week's C&C New Orleans event.

Dude that sucks, sorry to hear about your Z. I saw a lot of cars go under during Katrina but it was mostly salt water. So if there is anything i can say that's half-good at least it was fresh water. If I were in your shoes I would: 1) drain the engine, transmission, gas tank, diff and maybe some how try to flush things out. I would fill every inch of that stuff with the flush. Pull the plugs, fill the crank case, cylinders, intake everything. I remember growing up my, father's cypress shrimp boat used to sink all the time, he would make a mixture of diesel fuel and ATF to get every thing flushed out of the 455 olds motor and gear. He would Put in oil, filter, rebuilt carb and distributor then run it another year, 2) I would pull the seats and carpet, interior panels, door panels & let everything dry out, and then assess reuse, 3) the electrical & dash is where you will probably have nightmares. Every car I've seen go under that had the battery connected, the positive lead will be fried, and maybe the silinoid, ignition switch etc. anything that had power as it went under. Recommend you get about 3 cans of CRC electrical contact cleaner and start unplugging everything you can on the harness and clean the contacts, 4) don't forget fuel lines, assess fuel pump, 5) assess the brake lines & master cyl, 6) pull body plugs, 7) pull apart all of your light housings 8) you may as well trash the stereo system ... I feel your pain, nobody had time to try to save their cars here after Katrina because their houses were also flooded if not destroyed. Hope that's not your situation also.

I seriously considered going with the TBTs on my Z, but without being able to actually see them on the car, I chickened out. Went with the SPD zuka wheels from japngarage instead. I love the zukas but still wonder how the TBTs would have looked. Maybe if they had additional finish/color options they might be more popular. Also seems like Rota needs to do better at marketing. Hey Rota send me a set of TBTs and I will be happy to get some installed-on-Z pictures out there!!!

I have standard rack bushings.

I am so glad I found this post. I have been going crazy trying to figure out why my 280z lost its steering feel after rebuilding the suspension. I installed all T3 components and new bushings on everything. I was so disappointed to take my Z for drive and it felt less "sporty" than before with the old equipment. I have made about five different changes to my alignment, and have made three adjustments to my steering gear box. I had given up and just assumed that it was as good as it was going to get. When I saw this post I went outside and checked the clamp, it was 3/8" from making contact with the the crossmember. I loosened it and pressed it against the crossmember then tightened it down. I went for a test drive and that was it. My sports car is back!!! The symptoms it had was an instability in holding a line at higher speeds. The car would jump back and forth about a foot. Also the car was very sensitive to surface irregularities. That got scary sometimes and I learned to drive with two hands firmly on the wheel. Thank you for asking this question, and thanks for all of the replies!

Who wants to be the guinea pig? Ah, but it's a nice thought though.

Most of my experience is with the mikunis but I'll go ahead and try to throw some suggestions out there. Put fuel pressure back down under 4psi. Check linkage sync. Check accelerator pump settings. Check float levels, are they consistent? Can you raise the fuel level a bit. Increase pilot jet size. Got a sync tool? Got a color tune? AFR gauge?

Thanks for the input guys. I put in a 160 degree thermostat (I live in Louisiana & run a/c) it made a huge difference. I had been upgrading my cooling system over the last year but never changed the thermostat. it's never run cooler. The lower temp thermostat was the key to allowing the other upgrades to actually work.

Everything worked out great! Just cleaned up the ends with scotchbrite then flushed everything out. I ended up using r12a Red Tek refrigerant, R12 & 134 compatible ester oil. Been blowing nice and cold for the last week. Fingers crossed that it stays that way. Thanks for the input guys!

Is there a rule of thumb for an engine temperature goal? Should I be trying to run as cool as possible or some other temp in order to theoretically make the most possible power. My setup: L28 stock bore P90 head shaved .080" Flat top Pistons Crane cam Triple mikunis 40s Thanks!

I have the system in pieces right now, so flushing the individual components is easy but how can I effectively flush the compressor (to remove oil)?