Samurai7one

Thanks for the info. I thought this was going to be a disaster but now I feel better about it.

I couldn't find a forum for this exactly, so I'll try here. Are the flared copper fittings on the 280z ac lines reusable? Will 134a leak through or should I use r12a (not r12) instead? They seem like they may not reseal well, anyone have any experience with this, and hopefully some tips? Thank you!

I looked online for values in Germany it looks like a basic car (nothing special) gets you about 8000-10000 euro. Now consider the exchange rate!

I have: 60 pilot winter / 57.5 summer 150 main winter / 145 summer 200 air 45 pump nozzles 15 deg adv at idle Just watched your video again, the vacuum hose coming off the first carb, what is that connected to? I see you have it teed off. Recommend you disconnect that for now and just run a straight piece of hose from that barb on the first carb to the adv on the carb. Just to rule out vacuum leaks. You can reconnect it later after you get your idle sorted out.

Check what they are selling for over in Germany. Maybe bring it there and sell it (unless you are bringing something else). It may be worth much more there. Then buy a Porsche, bring it back to the US and sell it. Then buy a really nice Z that's already done and have some cash left over.

I don't know about 44s but on my 40s with flat tops and a saved p90 head, those 52 pilot jets would be way too lean. I recommend you do the following until you get a wideband AFR gauge and/or color tune tool: 1) check vacuum adv hose is connected to the barb located on carb #1 2) set your timing 12-15 deg at idle 3) disconnect your three linkage arms form the carbs, loosen the bolts on two arms until they are free to rotate on the shaft. 4) sync all carbs using a sync tool - same air flow 5) reconnect the one linkage arm that you didn't loosen, then connect the other two arms to the carbs and tighten the bolts to lock the arms to the shaft. 6) working one mixture screw at a time slowly turn each to achieve max rpms. As I said before I think you are lean so probably need to turn them out to begin with. more than two turns out then you should consider a larger pilot jet. But for now jest keep adjusting to get max rpms. 7) repeat step 6 8) repeat step 4 (Check it) 9) report back your results one other thing to consider, and its huge to the proper function of your carbs, is the float levels. Did you set them per the spec? Even if you did set them hanging upside down like the spec says, that's no guarantee that the fuel levels will be the same correct levels. To check the fuel levels do this: 1) take top cover off carbs 2) remove one of the main/air jet tube assemblies out of the jet block 3) measure from top of jet block down to the fuel level on each carb. I use a Vernier caliper's projecting arm to do this. 4) if you have the external adjusters, adjust fuel level. I set mine at 22-23mm down from the jet block. Your 44s may vary. Good luck!

I recommend a color tune tool for tuning if you don't already have one.

Pop the top cover off the carb and make sure all the jets are tightened all the way down. I recently rebuilt my phh40s and the top plate of the carb didn't line up just perfectly. So the pilot jet bound up against the side of the top plate and didn't seat all the way down. Had similar results. If it's not that then check all jets.

My car does the same thing when I get stuck in traffic. I can watch the temp rise, AFR go lean and RPM drop. Normally i idle at 1000 rpms but on a hot day stuck in traffic my rpms will drop to 600. Once I break out of traffic and row through the gears then everything goes back to normal. Try adding a heat shield and header wrap if applicable. or re think your fan/radiator setup.

I have a similar CR and cam, running Mikuni PHH40s on a shaved P90. I would not consider the 40s too small. 40's with that cam should be a good set up for you. Great mid range power that is easily accessible.. I am happy with this set-up and it has exceeded my expectations. Pump nozzle is probably good at 40. I have a 200 air jet. I don't know if you will be happy with the 40s, depends on your expectations. Just some advice: I am still carb tuning but I think I am 90% there. like a lot of other people, I struggled for a while with pilot to main jet transition, then I discovered if I take the top cover off the carbs and pull one of the jet blocks out, I could measure from the top of the jet block hole down to the fuel level. To do this I used the rod that slides out of the end of a veneer caliper when opened up. found not only were they all low, but also a 10mm difference between the high and low fuel levels (This was after I had set the floats as specified by the factory with the top of the carb turned upside down and floats hanging, set to 12mm). Using the external adjusting screw, I set all of the fuel levels at 23mm down from the top of the jet block hole. Completely changed the running characteristics of the motor. I even had to re-tune idle mixture (I use wide-band O2 & color tune tool). Transition is now smoother than I was beginning to believe would be possible with these carbs.

There must be a different radius of the top mounting area of the 240 & 280 air dams. I had the same issue, but used the lexan air dam, so it was flexible enough for the fasteners to pull it to the headlight bucket flange. I can definitely see that you would have problems with a more rigid air dam material.

Anything new out there?

Thanks guys. And Madkaw, thanks for all of the Mikuni tuning posts. I read all I could find, and it was definatly helpful. Thank you for your efforts Sir.

Moving this here from the L-6 engine forum to hopefully get some input: I had taken my triples off a couple weeks ago and wanted to check the accelerator pumps for consistency. Noticed a strange pattern on two of my carbs. One carb shot straight out as you would expect but the other two shot out to the side at least at a 45 degree angle. Definitely not in a direction that would be shot down the intake, but would get squirted onto the side of the intake probably about an inch away from the carbs. The angle of the streams from the barrels were parallel, both to the right. Any way to adjust this? Any ideas on cause? Thanks!

Kind of like this: ...l l........./ /......../ / carb1 carb2 carb3

I had taken my triples off a couple weeks ago and wanted to check the accelerator pumps for consistency. Noticed a strange pattern on two of my carbs. One carb shot straight out as you would expect but the other two shot out to the side at least at a 45 degree angle. Definitely not in a direction that would be shot down the intake, but would get squirted onto the side of the intake probably about an inch away from the carbs. The angle of the streams from the barrels were parallel, both to the right. Any way to adjust this? Any ideas on cause? Thanks!

My early 77 280z (09/76) has the A/C wiring built into the main harness (not the EFI harness). So, there must be that option out there. Ive seen many variations on the A/C components on these cars so, not sure how many harness revisions there are but I would guess many. Hope that helps, good luck

I put a set of ITM flat tops in my L28 a few months ago. only issue I had was tight wrist pins. I probably caused the problem pressing them in with a 50 ton press . They were nice and smooth prior to pressing them in. I was worried about it so, I took them to a machine shop with a special tool specifically for this, it uses vey precise inductive heating and the wrist pins slide right in by hand. didn't cost much, maybe $30. As for the quality...They smash air well.

I removed my motor with a clifford intake and the same carb from my Z about 6 months ago. At the rear of the intake It has the large hose barb, that's for the hose w/ check-valve running to the brake booster (make sure you install the check valve the correct direction). Then there is a small vacuum line going to the vacuum advance on the distributor. If you don't have a small port at the front of the intake, there is a vacuum port in the base of the carb that you may be able to utilize (if you don't utilize it, then it needs to be capped). Thats all you really need (actually some people run without the vacuum advance). There is also a vacuum hose that runs through the firewall into the dash for one of the AC/heat flaps or something, you probably should hook that up. Not sure how you can hook this up if you don't have another vacuum port then maybe tee off one of the other lines. My hose barb for the brake booster has a tee integrated into the fitting. That's where mine is connected. I know nothing about the chamber under the intake, mine didn't have that. If it is for coolant you may want to think about eventually utilizing it. With the heat down here it doesn't take long to start overheating your fuel. Especially with headers. You will see what I'm talking about nest summer. Maybe you could run the coolant through a transmission cooler with the fan mounted on it before it goes into the intake chamber???. good luck

I asked about using GTX2 arms with RCAs, this is what Gabriel said: Q) I am getting a set of GTX2 LCAs and I want to know if I need roll center adjusters if I plan to lower the car? Or do the GTX2s negate the need? A) The GTX2 do not lower the steering outer tie rod, so RCA's or outer tie rods that can be spaced down are suggested if the car is still experiencing bump steer

Here is a picture of the early style ball joint/pin Here is a picture of the later style ball joint/pin. The nut on the bottom of the pin hit the wheel weight. and was very close to contacting the rim. I removed the RCAs due to this. btw, that is a 15x7" et10 rim with no spacer. Works ok, but my LCAs are almost parallel with the ground. Have considered just milling down the RCAs to the max size needed to fit my rim AND/OR I could drill the crossmember LCA mounting holes up higher to raise the inside mounting point and thus increase the angle of the LCA.

I had to remove the RCAs for my GTX2s (early revision) to fit with 16" rims (rota grid16x8 et0). Other option was keeping the RCAs & adding a wheel spacer, I guesstimated 10mm needed minimum for the 16" rim. I actually have 15" southern ways on my z now without the RCAs i just can't lower it as much as I wanted to with out being concerned with bump steer. Had I known this going in I would have just bought the standard T3 control arms. Hey T3 - you need to put a warning about this on your GTX2 webpage.

I was just drooling over some online Kenmeri Skyline porn and had a thought about grafting a Kenmeri front end onto a S30Z. At SEMA this year some shops had challenger looking front ends on an S13, so why not a Kenmeri front end on a Z? Anyone hear of this being done? Any photoshop gurus out there want to give it a shot? Im trying to picture it in my mind but just can't. Maybe it will look horrible, but maybe not. this was my inspiration: http://oppositelock.kinja.com/fuji-lake-car-show-japanese-car-culture-at-its-absolut-1729241294