Samurai7one

Forgive the delay, I'm finally feeling better after a bit of food poisoning. Here's what I have to report: -ratio is the same as my 77 280z rack -stroke is 1/16" more in both directions -stock rack was 3 turns lock to lock / new rack was about 3.15 turns (probably due to slightly longer stroke) -splines appear to be the same on input shaft. -gear housing is cast aluminum on new rack vs cast iron on stock rack (checked with magnet) -new rack weighs less (4.5kg vs 5.5) -the rack gear itself on the old unit is flat on the side opposite of the gear teeth. It's round on the new unit. -it seems like a decent product, of course I haven't installed it yet to get the "feel". I prefer the construction of the old rack, but that could be said about any new parts being produced these days. The manufacturer of this rack probably makes the racks in most of our other modern cars that we daily drive. I guess I can say that it's not a "reproduction of the original" but a "modern replacement" for better or for worse. -oddly, it comes with one new bushing for the end that's opposite if the gear box. I thought maybe the O.D. of the tube was different, but it's the same. I just don't understand why this is, maybe the other side fell off? It's not in the box.???? Who knows. I'll just reuse my old urethane bushings anyway. They are only about 6 months old. Maybe the reason will become clear upon installation. -more to follow got to upload pics.

I ordered Moog ES2110R & ES2109R tie rod ends, one goes on, the other will not. Got pissed off, and I was sweating my balls off, so I threw it all back in the box and took a break to chill out. Will take a better look at it all again soon.

Both of those characteristics were present in my old rack. Got the new rack, it's very very different. Will get more info soon. I got to go to storage to get my old rack to do a comparison. What I see so far, I think it has two right hand thread inner tie rods instead of a left and right thread on opposite ends.

Well,... I guess I will be the guinea pig. I went ahead and ordered it. I will try to put together some pics and other info after I get it. I'll check the ratio, and pull the boots off and inspect the rack gear and compare to stock unit.

Moving this over from the wheels & suspension section. Didn't get any feedback there. Posted 5 days ago My steering rack gear has a wear spot at the center, so I get some slop in the system. Thinking about getting one of the new racks & pinions on eBay. Anyone try one of these yet? Any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks eBay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/322392168570 Also now on amazon: Brand New Premium Quality Manual Steering Rack & Pinion For Datsun 260Z & 280Z - BuyAutoParts 80-70087AN New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XT0M3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_xEvBzbP5ZQZJ5

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322392168570

My steering rack has a wear spot at the center, so I get some slop in the system. Thinking about getting one of the new racks on eBay. Anyone try one of these yet? Any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks

I like the simple approach of using the stock exhaust manifold and just using a flanged u-shaped pipe up to the turbo.

"He ended up removing one carb and he is telling me that the car now idle and sync so much better". 1) Fire him 2) Educate yourself 3) Sync & tune your own

Or maybe some chia paste, like this: https://youtu.be/K0dyH8ZqYVU

First thing that came to mind:

It's probably chugging, because the idle position of the carburetor butterfly valves aren't equal. Assuming you don't have one, you must get a sync tool to equalize the air flow at idle. In addition to all the other things to check, you need to perform the following process -Disconnect your linkage. -Ensure the three throttle links (they connect the actuation levers to the carbs) are exactly the same length. -Lossen the three little actuation levers that rotate with the shaft and activate the carbs. -Crank car and using sync tool, set to equal readings across all carbs. -Reconnect links. -Retighten the three actuation levers. You will have to probably repeat this several times as you learn more about the relationship between idle speed and timing. Some additional things to do, set your idle mixture screws to produce max rpms and no more. Keep going back and forth to maximize idle speed. When you think you got it. Go back and perform the above process to get idle back down. This mixture setting is a start point, if you want to fine tune you need to get a colortune tool. Hope that helps.

Well look what the recent 911 value increase (bubble?) has done for all the other older Porsche models. Have you seen what a 914 is selling for lately (I really like the 914). The prices are getting higher by the week. So, maybe the rising S30 prices will have that same effect on the other older Datsun/Nissan models. I wouldn't pay that, I think it's too much, but I remember about 5 years ago I found a VW camper bus in perfect condition was $8000.00 obo. I thought that's insane who would pay that? A few years later $20,000 is the norm.

Wow! Who made your barrels?

Keeping this alive. Btw this is appproaching 1 milllion views Anything new out there?

1) I have read about the bores in some posts here at hybridZ, but can't remember exactly what the pros/cons are. I want to say it's about the velocity of the air flow. The tapered bore may produce more with less turbulence??? 2) 40-45 mm should be ok. but I would go with the larger option, with the expectation that eventually I would install in an L28. This is due to the availability of the L28 vs the L26. 40s would work just fine on the L28 also but you may not get the maximum potential top end hp.

I used to have a four barrel setup, it was ok. It has some advantages. But these motors are heavenly with the side draft carbs or ITB FI setup. My recommendation: save a little more and go for the ITBs. If you're going to spend what it takes to do this, Then go all out. -ITB source: https://www.jenvey.co.uk. Convert $ to USD. Use the DCOE type to match the flange style on the intake. -That Kameari intake is good. I think they sell the same one on eBay sometimes, maybe cheaper or free shipping?? Here's another source: http://www.gl2007.com/usa_23.html I have bought from them before, no problems. -One O2 sensor is good - a bung welded in just after the header flange is fine. -Not sure about what to do with a MAF. You probably need an intake box then run the MAF between that and a cone filter. I think Jenvey also has the air boxes. When you think you have decided, add up all cost to do this. If your budget can't handle it, then be happy with what you have, or get a triple Weber kit. If you say "that's not that much $$$" then first compare to an RB25 SWAP it may not be all that much more. Just my 2 cents

I had my fully assembled motor & trans together and could not get them in together. The main problem was the MSA 6:1 header and the Arizona z aluminum oil pan. They make the total assembly very tall. If you have one of those two, it could be a challenge, if not impossible. I even tried taking off my front wheels and lowering the car all the way down on the floor jack. Wasted about 4 hours and scratched up my new engine bay paint. In the end, I separated them and set the transmission in first just on the ground. After the engine was mounted I installed the transmission. If your oil pan & exhaust is stock I think it will be possible In hind sight I should have installed the header after the eng/trans were installed. Just my 2 cents

I run an old Crane cam 168-0012 dual pattern cam. It has a nice smooth idle that I desired since I'm running a/c. I believe it's a stage 1 cam. If I were not running a/c I would want a stage three cam.

I thought I read somewhere that a high lift cam doesn't work well with the p90a head due to the hydraulic lifters?.?. Other than that I think the stage 2 cam is probably a good idea. Probably put some fresh timing components on it. Or get one of the Kameari adjustable tensioning gears ($$$) and adjustable cam gear. While you are at it, I recommend you do some porting on the head & intake. While I didn't do any on my shaved P90 head, the general concinsous here, based on what I have read in many posts, is that porting/polishing can unlock some hidden ponies. I'll get that done next time. Is your head shaved? I think the compression ratio may be a little low for NA performance if not. Consider the octane rating available to you down there before shaving it. I have to run 93 octane or I get some pinging.