ColtGT4g63

Check the wiring first, make sure The connector is making good contact with the sensor. If all that seems to be ok, then try throwing some new Knock sensors in and see if it still throws the codes.

That car sounds GOOD with the cut out open. Period... Nice times! What size manifold is your fast? Stock throttle body? Congrats!

Hopefully swapping in a new crank into the engine does not open up a whole new can of worms. If all goes well then thats a good deal on the motor! Keep us all posted with the progress and of course include pictures.

Congrats man! Time for some burn out pics / vids.

Should be fine. Us mitsu guys run catch cans all the time and plug where it originally routes back into the intakes. I knew it was PCV related!

I am running 28 x 9" on my 240Z, mounted on a stock 15 x 7" wheel 0 offset. The rear has to be hiked up quite a bit in order to prevent rubbing. Have not had a chance to take it to the track yet.

Ohh ya thats right, you're attending at UCSD if I remember correctly? Good luck with the trouble shooting, I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Hey! You're in San Diego huh? Where abouts are you located? Maybe I could cruise by and have a look.

Crank case ventilation all hooked up correctly?? Maybe pull off the lines from the valve covers / intake and clean them out. Any video's or sound clips of the noise that would better help us diagnose your problem?

For Mine, I ran a thicker power wire from the battery into the car. and off of that I had a junction point that fed relays. The relays would be tripped by the ignition turning to #2 position, the fuel pump signal from the PCM, and the Cooling fan signal. The other sides of the relays would go to whatever circuit they're feeding. For the Orange wire on the PCM, since it is a constant 12v hot wire, I just used an inline fuse straight from the batt. to feed it. Hope that helped.

I had a problem with my clutch already after only about 1000 miles. I was running the clutch that came with my pull so obviously it was used. Some of the goo material that surrounds the springs in the disk broke off and caused the disk to not fully disengage. I ended up pulling the transmission and replacing just the disk, and getting the flywheel turned. Everything good so far with a brand new disk. I also have my clutch pedal adjusted so I have about an inch of free play, and it grabs about an inch off the floor. This is with a 7/8 Tilton master cylinder.

Thanks dude! Ya.. My 60 ft. times are pretty horrible. The track that I race is is not known for having traction at all. Literally, its in a parking lot. I've got a welded R200 Diff with 3.54 gears. I should see quite the improvement in 60 ft. times with my new slicks. Cool dude! Come by and say whats up next time you see me down there. I'm going to go again as soon as I get my Q45 swap under way. What tires do you run on the Vega? Anything sub 1.8 at Qualcomm is impressive to me.

Thanks! The 224R is a great small cam. Idled smooth and had good driveability through out the entire power band. I actually upgraded to a Torquer V.2 Because I wanted a more aggressive sounding idle and a tad bit more top end. I do have the 224R and a set of 918 Beehive valve springs up for sale if you are interested. Thanks! I am actually a non active Mormon myself. But they're always coming around here to check on things and ask if I need help with anything. So.... As a matter of fact I did! they were willing to help out so I put 'em to work.

Maybe he meant Catalytic? Or... is very bad at spelling.

Hey Guys! Thank you very much for the compliments!!! Its always nice to hear other people appreciating your work. The hits that I made to the lower portion of the tunnel are kind of a funny story. I guess I read the instructions wrong??? I thought I was hitting there and making room for the reverse switch, when in reality I was absolutely no where near the reverse switch. So right now I do not have the reverse switch plugged in at all since its sitting right up against the tunnel wall. The reverse lock out solenoid cleared with no problems what so ever. You are even able to plug / unplug while everything is all installed. (I had to remove the trans after having clutch problems at the track) So you do not have to make any room for that. Removing the stock trans mount pieces was going to be easier if I just chopped them off rather then grind down the spot welds. I never actually thought it would add strength to the tunnel, but now that you point it out.... Sounds good to me. They were 22x8" I was heating them up pretty good. Launching from just under 2krpm I would get nothing but wheel spin. 2.0 was my best. The only local track that we have around here is the WORST track you can imagine for traction. Literally, its in a parking lot. You can see in the video that I'm pedaling it through the entire first gear. I decided to step up the slicks another notch and went with some 28x9's Before I actually take them to the track, I am up grading the rear end to a Q45 diff. with the bad ass 6 bolt CV axles.

Hello all! I've been on hybrid Z for a little while now, mostly lurking though. Thought that I would share my project with everyone. ( Not like you guys haven't seen enough of them already. ) Here is my write up. Feel free to ask any questions, give comments, opinions whatever. Here goes... I swapped a 2001 Fire bird LS1 / T56 into my 1971 240z. For starters... heres the car.. Here is the motor / trans Pull I purchased from a junk yard down here in Socal. The pull had 49k miles on it, and cost 4,000$ delivered to my front door. I purchased a set of Sanderson headers from JTR. And a mount kit from JCI, as well as the drive shaft and trans X member. Before I started to tackle installing the motor, I wanted to take the opportunity to install a new cam and valve springs while the motor was in a stand. I went with Comp 918 beehive valve springs and a Texas Speed and Performance 224R cam. I had to make a custom valve spring compressor tool to install the valve springs. Very simple yet very affective. When I Separated the transmission from engine, I was please to find a bling bling flywheel and a ram power grip clutch! Saved me some money. I also took this time to install a SS clutch feed line, and Tilton 7/8 master cylinder. Now for installing the mounts, I started with cutting off the square on the side of the block followed by installing the right side engine mount. Next I installed the factory left side engine mount, also at this time I installed my oil pressure sending unit. I felt like I should extend the sending unit further towards the front so it did not interfere with the collectors of the header. Seemed to work out alright for me. I also Got the new trans mount installed onto the tail shaft of the T56, easy enough. Next It was time to yank the old motor so off I go... 5 minutes later the engine was removed! and its time to start preping for the V8 to go in. I cut off the trans tunnel ears to make room for the T56. now its time to start putting the JCI mounted into the car. I start by removing the steering shaft, and nut/bushing/washer from the strut rod. Next its time to slip the driver side mount into the car, remembering that there is a spacer between the new mount, and the piece of the cross member that it slides into. Now its time to reinstall the steering shaft. Then you install the other piece of the driver side mount. You have to drop the X member enough to slide the mount piece in between the frame rail, and the member. Then bolt it all down so it looks like this. A similar process is done for the passenger side mount (dropping the X member and all ) But at this point in time I did not receive that portion of the kit yet so I do not have pictures. sorry! It was time to drop the engine into the car!! Who Hoo! I was so excited I could hardly contain myself. With the help of the good 'ol boys in white. ( Mormon missionaries ) I was able to get it angled right, and lowered into the car. It was a lot easier then I thought it was going to be. Got it all into position, slide the bolt through the driver side mount, and used a jack to support the tail shaft before installing the Trans X member. It took ALOT of work to get to this point and I was very happy to see the motor in the car. Now it was time to work on the transmission X member. This was very easy to install, and worked out great. Then once the transmission was in place I slid in the drive shaft. Next its time to work on the fuel system. I purchased a 15 gal. metal cell from Summit, as well as a Walbro fuel pump, a C5 Corvette fuel filter / regulator, and misc. fittings. I went ahead and cut the spare tire hole out, and installed a large piece of sheet metal, screwed it all down, cut a hole for the sump, bolted it all down. Mounted my pump, regulator, and ran my lines. Not much left to do at this point!! I was getting very antsy and wanted to see my car fire up! I ordered a radiator and mounting kit from JTR, which worked out very nicely. And also made my exhaust. I went with 2.5" off the headers, merged into a Y pipe then went single 3.5" out the back. It turned out very nicely! I also picked up a throttle cable off summit. I decided to go with a full set of auto meter guages, and installed them into the factory pods. Turned out very nice. So at this point, I've got Nothing holding me back from firing her up!! I sent out my PCM to get VATS removed. Got it back and couldn't wait to fire it up. The very first start up was done by using alligator clips to feed the PCM power. I also had NO exhaust on the car, didn't care. connected everything and wished for the best! http://home.tiora.net/davidc/Datsun/V8%20Swap/DSCN0335.AVI Gotta love open headers! Sounded so awsome. I been driving the car since Christmas now, and have done a whole bunch of little things here and there since. I am VERY happy with this swap, and would recommend it to anyone who is considering it. Here is a link to all the pictures I have taken along the way, and here are a few more video's of me driving it around, and one video of me racing at the track. Congrats to anyone who actually read the entire thing! To those who didn't, I don't blame ya. My fuel system in this video was before the fuel cell install. Very ghetto. First time taking the car to the track, Best time of 8.0@94, I was on slicks but had NO traction in 1st gear. 22x8's are way too small for the car. And ya, the announcer is an idiot.

I would say that 3" dual exhaust is plenty. Personally I went with a 2.5" into a Y section, and a single 3.5", and haven't felt like I need anything bigger. A friend of mine who has a 600rwhp cobra is running dual 3".

That is more then likely not an LS1 due to the fact that he comes with a transfer case. My guess is that its a 5.3 or the smaller one... 4.7?

This thing? I've got an extra one lying around.

Time to raise the dead here, I rigged up some half shaft loops to protect me against future breakage. ( I hope )

I've recently broken a half shaft as well... Pics - http://home.tiora.net/davidc/?path=Datsun%2FBroken

Try un plugging the MAF, Maybe see if it will run in "limp home mode" ? Fuel pressure gauge wouldn't be a bad idea either. If you have fuel pressure through out cranking, start up, and dying. You can rule the fuel pump / pressure out of the equation.

Who did the rebuild? You, or a machine shop? By any chance during the build was the tone ring on the crank left off? Left half off? wrong one installed? Are your crank and cam sensors good? I believe the LS1 has the crank sensor in the side of the block, and the cam sensor at the top in the back. (correct me if I'm wrong here.) Possibly bad sensors? Did it run before you did the rebuild? Did the motor ever run before? More details would be useful.

Impressive! Congrats.

I just went through this bleeding process tonight. I cracked open the bleeder with an 11mm socket and short handle ratchet from the top. Then I hooked up a vacuum bleeder nipple down in there and pressed it up against the top of the bleeder hole, Filled the resevoir as it went down. Easy as that. For some reason my clutch fluid got VERY dark, VERY fast.