Sideways

I might be crazy, but if the tailshaft seal is good on the transmission I cant see why and fluid would be there in the first place?

600 rpms in top gear should make a pretty substantial difference in speed. Either way- Why are you worried about reliability in this scenario?

Silly question that I dont expect to solve the situation, but might be one of a few other problems- Did you bench bleed the master?

Silly question that I dont expect to solve the situation, but might be one of a few other problems- Did you bench bleed the master?

been some time so the details are sketchy in my memory- But I had a similar issue, could only get a few gallons in before my Z was pissing itself. Culprit turned out to be a bad fuel sending unit O ring.

I just split a brake line down the side with a razor blade and lined the hole

The f20s are surprisingly big engines all things said and done. Its interesting installing them into the rollas, most people use sub frame spacers to clearance the engine and the hood- Then take a sledge to the transmission tunnel to persuade it a bit further. But like you noted, BRILLIANT 6 speed transmission (god they feel amazing to shift), and keep in mind how much further back that chunk of weight will be sitting (Depending on where you put it). Think youll be happy with the 200'ish whp youre looking at making, or do you intend to boost/modify it much? Theres some pretty nifty turbo and supercharger kits available for the engines. Its pretty easy for them to see 300 whp with very little effort and really bring them to life.

fwiw, if memory serves me correctly- Completely dressed L-series engines with transmissions weigh in just under 500 pounds (Give or take depending on the extra bits). About 7X pounds and change for the transmissions, and about 42X pounds for the engine. f20cs are about 460-470 pounds fully dressed with transmission. Btw- LOVE this swap. Ive actually got a kit to mount one of these in my 86 corolla. Its been a dream engine of mine for a long, *long* time. Im just waiting to pull the trigger on getting a engine. My cars are stateside and I live in australia now, but i still get to them a few times a year. Soon enough, hopefully. Looking forward to the progress of this.

On topic: Just one more vote for what pretty much everyone else has said. I installed my mckinney coilovers/weld in camber plates, st sway bars, poly bushings, and t3 tc rods on my car in one swing- eye balled the suspension (Emphasis on the word eyeball, only thing I really used a tape measurer for was to make sure my t3 rods were equal in length), and drove the beast. I drove it cautiously around my block, brought it back to double check everything that I thought was tight, was still tight (Which it was), drove it cautiously around my "area" for about 10 minutes (basically staying with 1/4-1/2 a mile of my home) until I was comfortable with it, then got it on the freeway and took it to the shop to have the alignment done properly about half an hour away.

Thankfully sugar isnt very expensive

Email has been sent. Thank you

Welded aluminum piping for my toy A very good friend of mine that I worked with at our shop at the time welded up the piping for me- We wanted to use as few couplers as possible, so the pipes were a bit intricate/interesting. Sadly I dont have a good close up shot off the pipe off the turbo (Though youll get a decent idea of it from the above pic, its all one piece)- But heres one of the the cold-side pipe at least. And these feed into an Isuzu NPR intercooler. The end tanks were modified a bit with different in/outlets- Coming straight out at an angle, instead of the factory ones that swept back. Required 0 trimming of my core support this way. Ive yet to have it on a race track but I can say with the car stationary on our dyno with nothing but a small squirrel fan feeding air through the front of the car we never saw intake temps go above ambient. I get the same results on the street (Typically speaking, intake temps go down when the boost comes in, and stay at whatever ambient is)

Damn i wish they had 2.. ill have to keep an eye on that thank you big time for the link

Bumping this- Still after some door-strap bolt cap cover thingies.

Looking for the throttle linkage off of a 280zx. If you got one lemme know how much you want for it. Please ignore my indicated location. The part will need to be be shipped to las vegas (henderson nv), not australia. As always thank you everyone

Im after the little caps/covers that go on the ends of the door handle straps that cover the bolts. The shiy guys in this picture

Ahoi fellow hybridz'ers- Title says it all. Im after 2 door frame dovetails, and 4 of the end caps that cover the ends of the door straps for a 240z. If you have any please let me know. **IGNORE MY "INDICATED" LOCATION. THE CAR IS IN LAS VEGAS (Henderson Nv). NOT AUSTRALIA.** Edit: And this is why I love HZ. Within minutes, literally, I had a PM from a member stating he had a set of dovetails. Thanks! Still looking for/wanting the strap caps.

Cant say im terribly surprised. Aerodynamically speaking the Z is pretty pewpy. That big, open, sexy looking grill is nothing but a huge funnel that scoops up air and pressurizes the engine bay- That pressurized air then pushes up on the not-terribly-small large surface area of the hood, and creates lift. The idea behind an air dam is it helps block air going under the car- & the idea of blocking off the grill (not all of it mind you) takes that a step further- dramatically lowering the amount of air under the hood. This helps with drag, lift, and even cooling (Remember the only thing that "moves" air is air pressure differentials, ie air always moves from a high pressure area to a low presure area- when youve got a lot of high pressure under the hood, you have to "push" that much harder to get air through the radiator and into the engine bay. Reducing the amount of air in there can reduce the amount of pressure in there, which makes it easier to move air through the radiator). Its not hard to imagine that the panel your cousin removed would allow more air in/under the car exacerbating the issue

Very well put together video, thought a few others here might find it enjoyable to watch Its quite enjoyable watching these things slide about

Managed to get my hands on a set of NoS pieces- But I wanted to come and thank everyone for their help

So if one was to run a slightly blocked off grill as many members are (not blocked off enough to cause over heating issues on its own), and run a relatively well sealing belly pan- Is it reasonable to assume that if A) The "exit" area for the engine bay is the same area size as the inlet, and , where this air exits is lower pressure than the inlet- Youd be able to move enough air through the radiator to avoid over heating?

Haha, i knew I shouldve used a picture My apologies. Not the interior door handle, the exterior door handle You can juuuuust barely make out the little plastic bit on the left side of this picture on the back of the handle. The door rod inside the door has a ball socket that snaps into this little platic piece, and when you open the handle, it lifts up on the mechanism inside the door. I need this plastic piece

On the back half of the exterior 240z door handle, there are these little square plastic pieces that snap into the handle- And the inner arm/rod that actuates the latching mechanism has a ball join that sockets into these. Does anyone know A) What the heck these things are called (My search fu is weak, and am having 0 luck finding what these are), and Where the heck I can get some of these? Thanks!

Im actually hoping to use lexan to make a grill-block off plate for my Z when I get back home in june. I love some of the block off plates others have made around here, i just tend to dislike the look of a giant plate for a front end. I figure this way I can keep the original(ish) look, and still get the benefits of having that gaping maw blocked off- Plus the ricer in me rather likes the look of my massive fmic. Whichll be another interesting aspect, theres 0 room to duct a opening to the thing, so itll be a trial/error with templates for awhile until i figure out how small of an opening i can run without having a negative impact on the cooling. I suppose ill try cutting the grill size in half and then go from there..

Need to retry that picture. But welcome to the club!