Sideways

Just wanted to share something I found: Thats a factory s13 line

Live here, but my cars in the states Short story is Ive been in a 8 year long distance relationship- Moved here a couple of years ago for the next big step, but my project car is back home with my family and I tinker with it a couple of times a year when I go home for vacation. Bluedestiny and Miles- Id like to thank both of you, youve answered my questions pretty clearly. Its people like you that make this community the great place it is.

Looking for a set of the MM 240z brake lines that bolt to the s13 calipers for the rear, if youve got a set collecting dust and are willing to let them go just contact me and lemme know how much you want for them shippped (To 89052 Nv, if you need to know). Need a set ASAP :\ Thanks!

I feel like an idiot for asking for help on this- But here goes. Did some typical digging/searching, but to be completely honest, Im pretty ignorant on this stuff and have *no* clue where to begin, so it makes searching rather difficult. I wouldnt be surprised if this has been covered before I just dont know where to begin to look to find the answer, if you know of a thread that has this *please* point me in the right direction. So my situation: Ive had my 240z for some time now, and had a set of SS brake lines for the car. I recently start doing a s13 rear caliper swap on it- And now were at the part where we install the brake lines. Of little surprise, the s13 caliper has a different fitting than the stock 240z drums. I was originally intending on getting a set of the Modern Motorsports brake lines, as Ross had a bolt in kit made for just such a thing. As many now know, this isnt really a possibility anymore (Well miss you, Ross). My question: Can I modify my SS braided lines i currently have (Theyre the MSA set, if that matters) to use the proper banjo set up on the caliper end? If so, more specifically, does anyone know what fittings Id need/have suggestions on where to get them? Do any suppliers have ready to go sets of these things? Am I better off just starting from scratch? Similar questions as my first one here- Can someone point me at what parts if need to make this work? Again I apologize for my ignorance- And as always wish to thank everyone for their help. Id love to hear from someone whos gone down this path themselves. Thank you everyone

Pm sent!

Reread that first post Theyre out of stock I just tried to order one and was told itd be a few weeks before they get them in because the guy they order them from it playing catch up- Problem is I plan to have my car in the paint shop *before* that happens, and don't have much of a window to move it around sadly (Im only around my car for a couple of weeks at a time)

Title sums it up- Went to order one from the Z store but theyre out of stock- If anyone has the kit laying around lemme know how much theyd like for it shipped to Nevada 89052. Cars going to be shot for paint soon and cant really wait for them to get them back in stock in a few weeks.

Looking for a set of turn signals for a 240z- If youve got a set lemme know how much youd like for them shipped to 89052 (Ignore the location under my name- My car is in Las vegas, I work in australia and visit home multiple times a year). Would prefer a set with the turn signal side pigtails for the bulb as well. As always- Thanks everyone.

So mostly mods to let you hit some more angle. May I ask what spring rates you use, and tires you prefer for drifting (size as well?)? What are you doing for a rear end? Whats your opinion on how the Z behaves while "oversteering" with your suspension? Do you feel it progresses from a "grip state" to a "drifting"/"sliding" state relatively easily/smoothly with your set up? Or do you feel the car tends to "snap" out once it starts to slide? How does it handle transitions to another direction?

I really hope you keep posting videos. Can I bug you for a total mod list? Id love it if you could get some in-cabin footage next time! far more exciting when we can see what youre doing on the controls and makes it easier to see whats going on

Very anxious to see how this turns out

I want to apologize ahead of time as I full admit this may very well indeed be a ignant thing to ask- and want to express that my intent is NOT to offend in any, way, shape, or form- But merely devise a possible solution based on what Ive seen "usually" cause that symptom for quite a few people Ive encountered. Is it possible youre over-driving the car on entry? I frequently tell people to slow down to go fast, and rarely do I mean just on the throttle. Its super easy to try and turn in as hard/as quick as you can- Especially on low speed turns where the cars tend to "respond" better and the amount of grip up front can let you do it. Is it possible that youre simply turning in too fast? If you have treid slowing down your inputs on the wheel, may I ask how your trail braking is? Unless I missed something major, the bulk of your set up I saw would lead me to believe you should have a pretty confident setup that tends towards under steer and should really give you a good amount of traction to hook up/shoot out of a corners exit. Thanks

Might I suggest a magnehelic gauge ? I bought me off ebay for peanuts.

Super loaded question I know, but do you have an ETA?

Fleabay for 250 bucks brand new. Couldnt complain.

What he said

Heres where I cut mine to: And how it sits with the flare on:

Beat me to it. The rbryant set up is the way I went

*Most* people Ive known tend to prefer ss/bb for "bumpier" tracks. The rationale being that stiffer springs tend to bounce you off the road/really unsettle the car if the corners are really bumpy. Softer springs will help absorb the bumps without sending you flying, and the bigger bars will help keep you flat. Be warned- Many have issues going over board with the idea of "staying flat", and use bigger bars than need be- Stiffening up roll so much that they lose traction. The weight never fully settles on the wheel(s) it should be, and you lose a good degree of side to side independence when you go too stiff. For the most part youll want to get the springs as stiff as you "need" them to be, and then use the bars to fine tune the characteristics of the car to handle the way you want. But as always, take that with a grain of salt. This is just what ive had some success with (in another car, my Z is still in the process of being set up :\), and those Ive known who do this type of racing.

Just want to point out to anyone that might not know, if this DOES happen to you and you suck up some air, you dont really shouldnt worry about damaging your engine. Many factory rev limiters work exactly the same way- "Fuel cut". Youre not going to run lean- youre not going to run anything, theres no fuel, theres no boom. However it can be extremely abrupt and very unsettling- Not just for you, but the car. If this happens mid corner it can be like side stepping off the throttle and then slamming back on it. Again, fuel surge tank! A very cheap, very easy to install reserve fuel tank that should be pretty much immune to emptying out due to the amount/duration of G forces youd see durign hard acceleration/braking, and especially cornering.

If I may inquire, do you race/track your car? Or primarily city driving? As to Estrada, for most people- I'd strongly suggest a fuel surge tank as well. it is extremely effective at keeping fuel going to your engine. Mind you so is fuel-tank baffling, as shown by Xanders rather interesting set up. BUT adding a surge tank is many, many times easier than either swapping a fuel tank (ie 280z), or taking one and modifying it and welding in your own baffling, or custom fitting another fuel tank from another car that has baffling in it all ready. Mount the tank, add a fuel pump, run the lines. Your done. Should literally take you 1, maaaybe 2 hours if you doddle. Kits are also relatively cheap off fleabay. Generic tanks as long as they dont leak are "ok", its just a sealed piece of welded metal thatll never see more than a few psi of fuel- But you should make sure to run good lines and a "decent" fuel pump that wont konk out.

Fwiw my completely stock rebuilt to factory goodness l28et made a hair over 300whp on a dyno pack at 17-18 psi. Youve bit more compression obviously, so at that boost range youll be close to your "goal".

Ever wonder why it feels "hot" when its 90 outside, and your body runs at 98.6(ish) degrees? Ever get too hot under a blanket at night? Its heat dissipation. Its not about how hot something "is at the moment", its about where that energy/heat is going. Header wrap insulates. A wrapped header cant dissipate the heat as quickly as an unwrapped one. Wrapping the intake will work, at first. Its insulation after all- Itll stop the heat from the exhaust and radiator from going into it. But it works both ways. Intake manifolds also get heat from the engine theyre bolted to- wrapping the intake will stop the manifold from being able to radiate that heat and itll run hotter than if you didnt have it.

Time to go with electric locks

"Start to finish" But short answer- Yes.