Sideways

Looks intruiging. Do you have any plans/methods to measure its effectiveness? Or mostly a "seam of the pants/lap times" kind of deal? And I know I tend to ask this a lot, but may I ask what kind of material that airdam was made out of?

Call me ignant, but I was always under the impression the "purpose" of a splitter was to take advantage of the air that built up on/was blocked by an airdam- The idea being you put a platform (the splitter) under this air (which, when blocked by the airdam, stagnates, builds up, and increases pressure) for it to push down on, causing some downforce (yay downforce!). Of course doing -other- things to lower pressure under this platform (Ie a belly pan to help keep air flowing quickly/smoothly under it, diffusers to accelerate the air further, etc) should yield a greater pressure differential and increases the overall downforce in theory, but in the end again the point was fas far as i knew, to simply put a platform under this pressure zone.

May I be nosey and ask what else was done to that motor, or is that a basically stock block?

Just chiming in, I did the search myself for that term, and was also unable to find what newzed cited as well.

Happen to look like this? These are the factory pans on vipers.

This thread is just a mental exercise, just to brain storm, have some fun, and see what kind of ideas other people come up with. We all (well, most of us) seem to love the idea of a belly pan- They seem to be the mythical holy grail of aerodynamic goodies for quite a few of us. While pondering on the idea, a question/concern crossed my mind. Cooling. If you were to completely seal the bottom of the car to make it perfectly flat, what would you do to deal with the air going into the engine bay? Obviously its beneficial to limit how much goes in in the first place, but even if you limit it, what goes in still needs to spill out somewhere. Will enough be able to travel down behind the engine/out through the transmission tunnel (and maybe out a vent/opening you leave at the rear above the belly pan, or diffuser if you go that exotic with it)? Would you go with hood vents? Would ducting the inspection lids allow enough air to escape, or would you still pile up too much air and run into aerodynamic/cooling issues? Would love to hear ideas/input from everyone.

Looking quite interesting. What material did you use?

Can we trouble you for some pictures (if available) of the result of this?

So heres a very stupid question while were on the topic of making our own boards... How "structural" are the floor boards in the S30 chassis? I wouldnt be terribly surprised if the seat mounts added some benefit, but what about the actual metal where your feet actually go?

Mm OS Giken. If youve the money to spend those are some very nice units. We used a few of those with remarkable results on some of the Vipers. Very impressive units in my experience.

They are relativley "proven" around here, at least to me anyways. BUT I cant argue with them apples By all means I understand the concern/caution! You really cant go wrong with some of the other options you have listed. Im iffy personally on vlsds, but then again my forum name is "sideways"- and Im known to be a bit "tail happy". What kind of racing are you intending on doing?

Is that from people here on this site or other places? If its from here- Can I trouble you to clue me into where you found them? I ask because I know of a lot of people who run these differentials on these forums, with a lot of threads covering the differentials. The general consensus is as far as I am aware, that nearly everyone is pretty damn happy with their differentials. I will admit that there are some small concerns with the units, but by no means are they "scary" (unless left undealt with), and are SUPER cheap and SUPER easy to rectify. There are 3 main concerns with the differentials- 1 is that theyre assembled by who knows who in china- And the orientation of the gears isnt always correct (Wont break anything, just means they work the opposite of how they should lol- and fwiw, this seems to have only been an issue with very very old original units, again to my knowledge-i havent seen anyone with a newer unit cross this). The differentials are amazingly simple inside, and its extremely easy to take them apart, give them an inspection, and put them back together (correctly!). The other concern(s) is in regards to the hardware- Namely the housing bolts, and the spring washers. A gentleman offers a kit for like 20 some bucks that upgrades all of the bolts, and uses mcmaster spring washers (very good quality). These washers add some preload, and the factory supplied one from obx are known to flatten down overtime and offer less preload- The lsd will still work fine mind you, you just dont have the benefits assocaited from having that preload. It really is as simple as that. Everyone I know of who has done those very simple steps has been *extremely* happy with their differential, and I do not personally know of a *single* person who has done them, and had *any* issues (If someone DOES know of someone who HAS done them, and still had issues- Please let me know!)- Some of these people are running some fairly impressive turbo or v8 applications putting 400+ pounds of torque to their rear wheels. The only people I know of (again, personally) who have had any issues, didnt do these steps and simply slapped them in. I am included in this group, and absolutely *love* this differential. Ive got an l28et powered 240z that put down 360 pounds of torque to the rear, not neck breaking mind you but its gotten the job done just fine (I stacked my washers for a bit of extra preload in my lsd, on the street its pretty damn good, it chatters a bit while moving around in reverse, but moving forward its a breeze, at least compared to any car ive driven equipped with a kaaz/cusco/tomei/nismo/etc) If you havent looked at some of the threads covering the differentials around here on hybridz, Id wager itd proabbly be worth your time and would love to suggest you give them a look The units really *arent* scary once you know whats up with them, and theres some brilliant guides/threads on here which show how amazingly simple and easy it is to make these lsds be, in my opinion, some of the best bang for the buck units you can get your hands on right now. I picked mine up for 250'ish shipped brand new in the box, slapped that bolt/washer kit into it, and used some picket change to buy the spacers to mount my ring gear (since it is a 240sx unit). If you have any questions about them Id be glad to help if I am able to do so

I know I push these a lot- But if I may inquire, have you considered the OBX lsd?

Minor details.

Aye it does seem to have its advantages. I went the NPR route, and wound up with this: Its a bit of a squeeze across there.

I must admit I was being rather coy- And I agree, there is indeed no shortage of information on this. Its because of this information and my personal experience that I have to strongly disagree that any reasonably large intercooler is going to result in an "Extremely laggy car". The time difference itd take your turbo to fill up the volume of an "appropriately sized intercooler" vs "a large one that we can reasonably fit into the front of our cars" would be measured in hundredths of a second. So ya, there would be sooome difference, but "Extremely laggy" in comparison? What kind of intercooler are we talking about here? Now I want to state- I readily and openly admit 100% that I may be completely and utterly wrong on this. If I am, I would gladly and openly welcome information that demonstrated otherwise. The correct information is far better than holding onto "wrong" information if you ask me.

Take this with a grain of salt, of course, but: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toughened_glass "It (tempered glass) is used for its characteristic of shattering into small cubes rather than large shards and is sometimes referred to as safety glass in this context. (The windscreen or windshield is instead made of laminated glass, which will not shatter when broken.)"

Ah no worries I got chya. How much lag are we talking about? Why is it adding more lag?

Get your hands on a magnehelic gauge and measure what 2 points actually have the highest pressure difference ? You can snag these things for silly cheap on ebay. Takes almost all the guess work out of stuff like this

Might I trouble you to elaborate? Thanks

Wwweeellll, fwiw, I have personally seen "cheap" intercoolers that have had welding slag snap off somewhere deep inside, and then do a nice number on the engine after it tried to eat it. Even intercoolers deserve a careful eye. But that said, CX racing usually makes good stuff for the money (Dont believe they ever made it into production but last time I was there they were working on a set of titanium housings for rotary engines, very beautiful)

If my memory is serving me atm, since late 2009- But by early 2010 for sure,

Consider me lucky. Ive a relatively "cheap" (think I paid 200 bucks for it, picked it up in person) china t3/t4 turbo from a company known as CX racing (can google them quite easily). Stock block and head (albeit rebuilt), and that turbo is supporting a happy 300 whp and 360 wt @ 17 psi and hits full boost by about 3k rpms. The car was a daily for awhile until I moved away to australia and has seen quite a few thousand miles. Some of my piping was from them, as was my bov. Intercooler however was an isuzu npr. While it usually is a good indicator, theres more to quality than price. You can pinch some pennies and still get something decent. My turbos by no means a baller ass high performance turbo- But for the money, ive been pretty damn happy. Just my 02 cents anyways.

Without an intercooler (as it is stock), initial intake temps will be "relatively" ambient- And then go up as you you go about your business. An air to air intercooler will maintain intake temps closer to ambient. If your car can handle initial intake temps at close to ambient, it should be able to handle them if they continue to stay close to ambient. Think of it this way: If the intercooler in your car resulted in an intake temp low enough to cause issues, youd be advised not to drive at night. Your car can handle driving when its 90 outside, it can handle driving when its 40 outside during winter. It can handle an intercooler maintaining intake temps closer to ambient

What john said. Air movement is caused by pressure differentials- Flowing from high pressure to low pressure. As long as the "feeding" side of the duct has more pressure than the intended "exiting" side, air will flow through it.