Sideways

I got a quote from Mckinney some time ago back when I obtained one of their coilover kits. Price to drive in and have them install their kit was 600 bucks start to finish, assuming your car was relatively clean and didnt put up any unexpected fights.

Why not go with a Black/brown-leather interior? Although for the price of redoing the interior.. Is AC an option? Do you have ac already? Have something stopping you from installing it?

Call me ignant, but whats the point of this part?

Uhm. Might be a silly idea. But why not cut/paste from a donor car?

My condolences to you and your wallet

Must admit it is getting scary. I picked up my turbo block/head for 100 bucks back in 08. I rebuilt them for my application but they were perfectly healthy when I bought them.

Im surprised it was that easy to line up the caliper/rotor- Thats an amazing find. You should get someone to make those brakes in bulk and offer them as a kit. Anyone got the specs on the caliper size the evos use for the rear and how the force of them compares to the 240sx calipers a lot of us run?

1000 for a medicore lsd? Get yourself an s13 kaaz/cusco/tomei- Less than 1000, far from "medicore" (Imo, at least- But it depends on what youre after I suppose). If youre more budget minded go with the obx, from what people have had to say on these forums theyre doing extremely well. ive gone the obx route myself and have it installed but wont be able to properly drive the car until december at the best. I picked mine up for 250 shipped off ebay brand new.

If I may ask- Any experience with them or just basing this off what you know of the shocks being used?

From what I know theres two types of S13 LSDs on the market. Ones designed for open diffed s13s, and ones designed for the s13s with a factory lsd. They had different spline counts, thus you find both options. What you want is an S13 lsd designed for the open diffed cars. Kaaz, Cusco, Tomei, Os Giken (Drooool, os giken), Carbonetics, Quaife (More droolage), Obx- The options are ridiculously endless. I myself opted for the OBX differential- I like the idea of a mechanical, theyre absurdly cheap, and theyve been relatively well received around here if you take some very VERY simple (and cheap!) precautions. From what I know all you need are some ring gear bolt spacers (This is what I did with my obx), and bobs your fathers brother for most of these options. Side rant: In all honesty- I struggle to understand why those 300zx lsds fetch as much money (on average) as they do. Maybe its because the knowledge of these other options is relatively unknown? I know theyre rare/hard to come by, but so what. For the kind of money they usually go for nowadays you can easily pick up a vastly superior aftermarket unit. Maybe if you could snag one for a few hundred bucks, but not 6, 7, or 800+. Ah well, anyways. For what its worth, id steer clear of a Vlsd. Clutch or mechanical if you can.

Ive relatively little experience with Zs outside of my own Z sadly. Looking around some people claim to have factory return lines for their early Z models it seems. Im not sure what the story is on this, factory/dealer option maybe? Id love some insightful input from someone more knowledgeable than myself. Mine didnt have one for whatever the reason may be- So I had to make my own. The line doesnt need to be big, since it SHOULD flow freely into the gas tank and there shouldnt be any "pressure" build up in the line. Good luck!

Mount the fuel pump in a suitable location close to the fuel tank. Connect the stock fuel tank pick up to the "in" side on the fuel pump. Connect the "out" side of the fuel pump to the factory hardline In the engine bay connect the engine bay side of the fuel line to your fuel rail, and contemplate using a fuel filter between the two points (strongly recommended) Connect the return side of your fuel rail to a fuel pressure regulator if you wish to regulate fuel pressure in the bowls. Run a fuel return line. I was lazy with mine since its a low pressure line, and just ran a rubber line along the transmission tunnel that I took extra precautions to insulate it. I attached a connector to my factory fuel sending unit for simplicities sake. But by all means the "proper" method is to use as much hardline as you can. Bobs your fathers brother. For wiring? So many ways under the sun to do this. The EASIEST way? Ground the fuel pump. Run a wire from the battery to a switch inside your cabin- and run the switch to the fuel pump. Need fuel? Turn on the switch. Dont need fuel? Turn off the switch. The slightly less easy way? Ground the fuel pump. Run a relay that is switched on when the key is in the running and starting positions from the ignition switch. Connect the battery to the relay. Connect the relay to the fuel pump. Bobs your fathers brother.

Are we venting air out of the cabin?

For what its worth ive seen a small handfull of cars with factory brake cooling ducts that make some pretty wicked bends and still provide adequate brake cooling (Check out what some people are running on the c5/c6 vettes for reference- They make some ridiculously sharp 90 degree bends and still manage to perform relatively well to the best of my knowledge). But of course I concede its completely possible that due to (in general) a wheel wells tendency to be relatively low pressure, even with inefficient designs they can obtain enough of a pressure differential from the pick up point to the brake point to promote enough air flow. IF thats true picking up from a notably high area like the headlight bucket, and running the air to a relatively low pressure zone like the wheel well in the z- Id wager that even with an inefficient design youd still get enough air flow to make a note worthy difference in regards to cooling the brakes.

Wouldnt happen to have any pictures/examples of people who have done this by any chance would you?

Please delete this post, apologies

May I ask why you want to keep the spacers?

FWIW: Picture of a Z@30mph into a barrier:

Measure it! You can pick up a magnehelic gauge for 20-30 bucks all day off ebay. Removes all the guess work You want one that measure from 0 up to a couple inches (1-3, 1 will cover almost all the things youd want to test aerodynamically on a car it seems, but if you want to do other stuff or know youll be testing super high pressure areas- 3ish would be plenty it seems). Edit: Heck, you can just make your own device to measure presure differentials for about 10 bucks worth of parts. not as nice as a magnehelic gauge, but still very practical. Just a flat board, some clear tube, food coloring, water, and voila.

Ah got chya. Well for what its worth- About 9 mintues and 20 seconds in- Youll find the scene where the main characters are seeing/inspecting the Z for the first time in the junkyard- The more "technical" of the two friends clearly states its Twin-Turbo (and is referred to as such throughout the entire series to the best of my knowledge. I cant recall any specific scenes where they SHOW that it is twin turbo, but 110% it is SUPPOSED to be and is called such). You can ignore the english subs if you choose and merely pay attention to whats spoken- Despite it being in Japanese its pretty clear what he says. The officially-licensed Wangan Midnight 1:18 model also has this for the engine in the kit: Take it with a grain of salt of course, but again- Pretty clear its "supposed" to be twin turbo. I havent read the manga in quite a few years, and even longer since I read through the japanese version (I can keep up, but often have to reference particular words- so its just easier for me to read the english scanlations haha)- But im 110% certain its twin turbo (or at least claimed to be such, ill have to look and see if i can find any pictures that SHOW that it is, but it is SAID to be in both the english and japanese manga). Both movies are the same as well (The original one based loosely on the manga, and the more recent reboot). And for what its worth, the manga predates al lthe movies/games (which also refer to it as twin turbo)/anime/etc. Im glad to provide more detailed sources if you wish- These ones were just readily easy for me to dig up

The quote in particular did specifically reference the anime, and i had INTENDED to type "the wangan midnight anime", but must have brain farted (At least its obvious i was referencing ONE of them by calling it THE wangan midnight.. hah!)- But ya, the anime in specific is what I had intended to ask about

I know im digging up an OLD thread- But I know tony is still active and am mostly curious. Are you under the impression the Devil-Z in the wangan midnight is or isnt twin turbo?

Apologies- But why would it be meaningless?

Id love to find if anyone here has used one of these, what ratio they used, their impressions on the increased steering effort, pictures of the install if they have it, etc. I was wondering if this would be a worthwhile venue to increase steering speed vs the typical AZC steering knuckles

I can think of some pros and cons to doing it both ways. Say for example youre comparing the pressure difference between location A and location B. Location B has a higher pressure than location A, and when you measure the difference you see this (dur, i know). But what if location A has a pressure higher than the ambient air youre moving through- and youre after not just a good pressure differential between A and B, but also after lowering the pressure in location A as best you can at the same time? Because the pressure in B is higher than A, youll see location A as being a negative zone compared to B, even though A is still higher than ambient. On the other hand you could measure just location A first vs a reference pressure, then location B against the same reference pressure. Doing this you might see that location A is at +.1, and location B is at +.2- So now youll know not just the difference from A to B, but how far above that ambient reference pressure both of them are as well. Hopefully this makes sense? And again its assuming im under the correct impression (Pretty sure I am though, hah)