brokebolt

I would guess from my summation of your description, that maybe you indeed did have a copy of on original Cannon casting. We (friends getting together, not business) used to do stuff like this for one-off parts, never for resale. If you didn't match the mold up correctly when you mated the two halves of the mold together, then yes it would misalign the top and bottom half of the manifold like you stated... that was all sand cast stuff not modern technics like today. Normally, however, you scrub any indication of the original manufacture (like a logo or the letters C-A-N-N-O-N across the number one, or number four runner) to prevent copy write infringement and liability on your part. I heard a rumor that the TWM was a copy of the SK Racing manifold, it does look similar to me...

I didn't know Weber did this as well. Good to know. I am no Weber expert so this helps out a bunch, I do dabble with them from time to time. And yes, I agree with Drax240z, he is absolutely correct about causing issues... Dirt (straw, crud, debris, etc.) will cause issues too, gotta keep them holes clean!

Yes, you should look at the progression hole count and size, idle mixture screw type, and the idle air bleed type. Their are two types of both the last two and I don't know how many types of the first item. The first item is the progression holes, they are located under a slotted brass 'slug' (meaning it has a "-" {minus} on the head and uses the same type screw driver to remove it.) This slug is sometimes steel with a coating to prevent rust which may look gold-ish or at one time looked gold-ish in color and I have found is always a phillips head (meaning it has a "+" {plus} on the head and uses the same type screw driver to remove it). The 'slug' is easy to located in front of the idle mixture screw which is located toward the back side of the carb (where the butterflies are located on the carb body), on the top of the carb, located by the carb mounting surface to the manifold. Their are three bass things in a row on the carb. First is the accelerator pump jet holder the second is the brass slug and the third is the idle mixture screw. The hole count and size need to match. For example you may have a large hole and three smaller holes. I would not suggest you mix and match carbs of different progression holes, as it will effect the characteristics of the progression phase of the carb. Second their are two types of idle mixture screws. The first idle mixture screw is a fine thread if it is encased by the aluminum carb body. The idle mixture screw is recessed into the carb tower a bit. The other type is a course thread where the idle mixture screw is somewhat exposed and the tension spring is 100% exposed with no aluminum shroud around it. I guess you could mix and match these but I wouldn't suggest it, as the idle mixture may vary between the carbs. Third you need to make sure that they are either the non-adjustable air bleeds that have the air bleeds located in the carb body or the other type has the air bleeds on top of the idle jet like how Mikuni, Weber and others have done it. Locate the jet cover, usually black or orange plastic, sometimes aluminum, remove it, and pull the idle jet from the carb body. The idle jet (two per carb) is the smaller two of the four brass parts located under the cover. The other two are the main jet, E-tube and air corrections jet (or air bleed jet). Their are two ways to tell. First if their are numbers stamped on the side (like 7850.1), or second if you have two rows of holes drilled in the jet holder; one row above the threads and one below the threads, than you have the idle jet version, if not then you have the carb body version (no stamped numbers, and only a single row of holes drilled above the threads). The idle jet is located on the bottom of the idle jet holder on either version. The carb body idle air bleed vs. idle air bleed jet isn't an issue other than to make sure that you have three carbs that have the same type. If not, I do believe that the carb body is drilled slightly differently for it's passages and this may effect the idle characteristics of the two types of carbs. Not sure though, I have never mixed them before. I would not suggest it, as it may effect the idle and just off idle characteristics of the carb. If the tuning parts are not identical, no worries man, you can always pick them up from several sources, like VW performance shops and some still sell Dellorto parts. Dellorto DRLA and DHLA use many of the same parts. Auxiliary ventures maybe the hardest to source and cold start parts too. But you really don't need to use the cold start function for performance minded personnel. Happy motoring.

I can't speak for the Nissan Competition parts manifold, but the Cannon, TWM, and Mikuni Manifolds are all the same spacing. Even the FET manifold I have is the same, so is the generic no-name that came on a set of well worn rebuilds. I wonder if the holes were simply miss-aligned when machined after casting clean up. Maybe the guy running the mill had tied one on at lunch. Just a thought. Those Mikuni air horns are horrible to try and wrap a filter around. I have, in the past, just bought the oval K&N filters and cram the air filter around them. It causes the filter to protrude out a bit around the ends but it's either that or cut them (eeeeeeeeaaaaaaakkkkkkkkkkk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). Custom air boxes are always nice. The guy that sells those extrudabody throttle bodies shows you how to make a low buck, easy to build air box. You only need the air box back plate/carb face plate. http://extrudabody.com/TechInfo/Plenum_Building.html I haven't built one using this method yet so I can't comment on that. But I can say I am a fairly experienced fiberglass man... pay special attention to item "C"... get a box of good nitrile gloves for about 7 bucks for a box of 100. You will thank me later. I promise.

You would need to cut and weld the flat bracket and bore the center hole to fit around the hub of your Z. Not worth the effort in my opinion. Better bet is to buy an aftermarket set of hub brackets and part your rears together with reman parts from the auto part store or buy a full-on complete aftermarket package. Or if you're junk-yarding parts together look for those years your interested in and pull the Maxima hub brackets. This bracket is the better of the two OEM Maxima hub brackets that are "bolt-on" in my opinion. Don't forget the dust shields and stock OEM hardware that are not pictured here. The bolts are longer then the stock drum brake set up so you will need the longer bolts. The dust shield just keeps junk out of the back of the rotor, a good idea in my book. You will still need to mount them which means removing your stub shafts but that is really just an opportunity to service the rear bearings and seals that most likely haven't see the light of day since installation at the factory well over 30 years ago. That isn't a easy job, not like servicing the front wheel bearings and seals. But that is just my $0.02.

I say stay with the SU's. Rebuild the Webers and sell them on ebay to generate some funds for more fun stuff. Just my $0.02. Or keep the Webers and play with them on your combo. Rebuild kits are still readably available for those 32/36 DGV carbs. Google "weber carbs" for lots of links.

Remove the peddle and use a constant amp/volt setting and try "scratch starting" the arc. I bet your using a high end welder that has high frequency start and other goodies that may interfere with your ability to learn. Later you can add in the peddle and high frequency start after you have mastered puddle control. The electrode will become contaminated a bit but for learning it is a trade off.

That would be used for a Heat Riser tube that pulls hot air off the exhaust and into the fresh air inlet on the air cleaners assembly. This was used on carb cars usually and on the later SU set up for the Z version. Bell tops and bucket tops both used this heat riser set up, early bell tops had nothing, later bells had a winter/summer selector lever on the inlet snout you had to manually turn under the hood and the later bucket tops had an auto set up that did all the "hard work" for you. They were used to heat the air coming into the carb for cold starting and cold weather driving.

Here is good thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82485 As far as the T-5, WC T-5 discussion, the input shafts have different spline count and diameter, even between Non WC T-5's; as stated the bell housing is also different. Adding a shift kit like the B&M Pro Ripper that I added helps stiffen up the shift a lot and adds a level of security with shift stops. Take a good look at the stock Nissan T-5 shifter and you will see it is nothing more than a stamped steel piece with a shifter ball attached. Not the best design but quick and dirty to get the cars off the assembly line IMO. The Nissan version in the B box is much better as far as a nice solid shifter as far as feel and stiffness in the stick. Ratios are different from the T-5 and better out of the hole if you don't mind banging the first two gears rather quickly...Stick in a 4.11 gear set and your ridiculously whizzing through the gear box. These boxes also have issues with extremely high Torque engines and...not an issue for us wimpy engine guys: http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/world-class-t-5-transmission-upgrade/ Yes I know that is an article about the WC tranny but the Non-WC is even weaker. Eeeaakkk!! Just my $0.02.

I do agree from the picture, the third feed is plugged into the balance tube. My best guess is it feeds the vacuum side of the vapory recovery system. And the other two are carb feed and return. That is my best guess. Remove the carb feeds and use a clean tube (hose) and blow with your mouth gently to see what is routed where. It would behoove you to clean the internals of the metal feeds and replace the hoses so I wouldn't fret about cutting that old rubber. Those look to be the original hose clamps so I would guess that is 30 year old stuff your working with (could be wrong). The picture of the front of the engine I would guess that the top two are fuel and the bottom is a vacuum feed (just a guess). As far as linkage, I bought a new center linkage from MSA years ago. Don't know if they still sell them but might be worth looking into. I unfortunately do not have any old SU stuff...trippple carbs...yes...old SU stuff no, sorry. That U-tube link, what is he asking for parts cost and shipping to USA? Might be worth it. I used to buy aftermarket from super-shops and online speed performance sellers, piecing stuff together, quite a chore to locate all the tidbits. Same stuff he sells, but if your going aftermarket, I like the heims that bolt in place. Had a plastic ball end joint become dis-attached once! Throttle jammed at wide open throttle (in the fully open position at the top of a shift) on my bell top SU's. Slapped the throttle pedal (which did clear the condition), jumped out, open the hood, reattached, did a bit of cursin', jumped back in and drove off a bit wiser. Stuff does happen... Best of luck on the project.

M12 X 1 x 18 It is a shoulder bolt and has a flanged head so you may want to try an E-Bay search for some New Old Stock or your local Nissan dealer *maybe* able to get them for you. Best of luck.

Here is a nice page: http://e85prices.com/ In Rocklin California, $1.85 reported on Dec. 7, 2008. Gas listed as $1.75. I paid $1.69 today. She's getting more economical to drive...just in time for winter!

Yes, the Round top carb (I call them Bell top carbs) will fit on the Flat top carb manifold (I call them Bucket top carbs), as far as the bolt flange pattern is concerned. Best of luck.

I think they call that real world data! 280zex thanks for the follow up post on your results. Nice work buddy! Are you using a G-Tech meter to achieve this particular G-force result?

Oops! You said single throat carb, scratch what I said.

Largest I am aware of is a 58mm side draft made by Weber. The Dellorto Tech hand book stated that Dellorto made a 52mm carb but I think that is a miss print, I have done some research and haven't seen or heard of any that large. Largest Dellorto I seen is a 48mm DHLA. I do believe the largest SK is 50mm as well as Mikuni, don't know a lot about those two manufactures so I could be wrong. Seen a set of 58's on a late sixties Formula 1 car in Sonoma, CA. at Sears Point Raceway, I think it was a Ford power plant (I could be wrong on that) and had two large air boxes (air scoops or whatever you kids call them today) on each side of the engine. Closest I have come to them. In any case it was one of those vintage race cars that show up at the Indy car races and entertain the crowd. You got to wander around the pits before and after the track time and look at the cars...the vintage cars not the Indy teams. Fun day!

Interesting read from Extrudabody's webpage: http://www.extrudabody.com/TechInfo/FlowInfo.html Shorter overall length has a tat higher flow rate according to his independent testing. Not affiliated with them in anyway. Doesn't state who the competitor is but knowing a bit about the company I can take a guess.

I run a 5 inch disk super trap muffler, I have been pulled over in Ca. for loud pipes. You would need to use another muffler/silencer somewhere else in the system to keep her hushed up. But I do like the tune-ability. "Loud pipes save lives"...the guy on the HOG for one. Drag your lawn mover down and ask the judge if you run this bad boy will you expect more citations? Sounds like a subject Adam Corolla would have a few words on (chicken "S" ticket). After all it is statistically proven that more murders and thieves started their lives of crime disturbing the peace and not properly displaying front plates.

The hiss is a vacuum air leak. Some times the engine RPM's will raise slightly do to the addition of air into the intake. I would replace it as you "could" cause engine damage, and your brake booster is a vacuum device so you are loosing brake pedal efficiency, meaning you have to push the pedal harder to make the same fluid pressure in the brake lines. (Some older cars, race cars, and aftermarket set ups do not use a brake booster.) Follow his links posted here for the set up on the master cylinder push rod length. They may need to be adjusted for the 280ZX master cylinder upgrade. I say this as when I did a 280ZX upgrade and Toyota 4X4 calipers my rod was in no need of adjustment. blue72, thanks for the pics.

The Z roof is a turtle shell and very difficult to get nice and straight (that is to say properly shape), it also lacks a good strong support structure. With that said any good quality body work done in that area will be difficult. Yes, you can mud it and do the same type of repair that was done before and it will look OK for a daily driver and that is fine. I have done those repairs before, why sink $5000.00 into body work on a car you want to value at no more than 6k or 7k, but that is my opinion. Body work is like fine wine, the more you spend the smoother the finish, just in a different bottle (again that was a joke so no need to bash on the wine sentence). It rivals engine work in theory in some reguards, the more you spend (in both time and materials), the nicer it is. Anytime you see that type of rust, formed under the filler layer (or paint bubbles) you have to ask yourself if more maybe present. Has a worm hole formed and run all the way down the back to the rear hatch, or over to the side by the 1/4 window? Dose another spot exist that I can't see yet. Any body work will always pose a risk of potential rust unless done professionally by professionals. doohopark makes a good point about cutting the area out until you confirm that a good clean repair can be made. Knowledge of proper technic and experience play a role here. I strongly suggest you seek out a good book for reference or a body guy in your area or Z club for advice. Hands on is worth more than anything else in my opinion, especially for items like this. If you do the body work yourself in your garage and you are willing to risk the unknown (I assume your are a fist time body guy?), I say have at it msthaiii. I am one that would support your decision, but the flip side of the coin is the gamble of future repairs. But this small repair maybe good experience to see if you would like to tackle more repairs on your car, or another car later. I say all this as both advice on bodywork and warning of the work that is needed and knowledge of tools and technics. I can't stand to see what would be a nice car cruising the yard with primer spots and unfinished body work. I say get on it and finish it, I want to see that thing put back together and looking nice (even it isn't show car nice!). Best of luck on the project, and keep us posted on the progress.

Bond-O...that was a joke. Bonding filler, not fusing = Bond-O. We used to skim the entire car and than sand it smooth. It left a lot of small thin areas where the metal had small imperfections. We did use high build primer when needed, high quality needed more work than others. We produced quality work, show quality and it cost $$$. And yes you can slather it on; up to 4 inches (stripped a rear quarter once..). Sloppy sheet metal workmanship uses more filler/primer. That's just the way I roll.

Why yes it is large cable. I use 25 feet of 2/0 on my personal 300 amp DC tig welder. Works fine. For a battery relocation kit the largest I have seen is only a 2/0 so my suggestion for an 4/0 isn't that far off, remember as copper corrodes it looses conductivity and voltage drop becomes apparent and a real problem. If your moving your battery to the rear and possibly using a disconnect switch than 10 feet should just about cover the distance, so if someone is tracing your steps they can ask the local welding shop dealer for 10 feet and they should be covered. That's the length I bought/used, and routed the cable under the car. Yes, for most battery cables 3-6 feet your going to find precut and terminated ends at #4 to 1 or so. But if your relocating your battery I would strongly suggest you use a larger size for those reasons stated above. But your coin do what you like. I also solder the ends of the terminations to prevent corrosion and wick it up the copper into the insolation, then tape off the contact point and dip them in some tool handle dip.

I agree with 78280z, if you can break of the bondo than you have bad adhesion, in this case looks like rust compromised the repair (and a poor one I might add). Now you need to strip, prep, clean, bondo, primer, paint, and color sand. Obviously that is an over simplified order of events, but the concept is the same. The blue color is the bondo layer and the color layer is very thin on top of that bondo layer. The bondo should never be more than the width of your fingernail (in my opinion) if it is any thicker than your are masking the problem with the metal underneath. Also if you can flick it off than the bondo doesn't have a good adhesion and needs to be stripped off and reapplied. Bondo is a mechanical adhesion not a fusion process, hence the name "Bond-O". Best of luck on the project.

I would go with a 4/0 or better (larger size). Here is a bit of information concerning wire size. It is scaled starting with the smallest size first and the last being the largest; 14 smallest in this example 12 10 8 6 4 3 2 1 0 00 usually written as 1/0 000 usually written as 2/0 0000 usually written as 3/0 250 300 etc. to 2000 largest in this example Welding cable is fine strand which is excellent for DC Voltage, like a battery connected to a starter or high amperage stereo system. So for a quick reference, 300 amps DC if you used 4/0 size copper fine stranded wire it should be fine for like a 10 foot run and that wire should be about 3/8 of an inch thick. Best of luck on the project.

Go here for a bit more on the topic: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103511 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=79631 Nothing is in concrete but information is key in making the decision.