tech9

I've seen a lot of Jeep people use POR, that's where I originally got the idea for this. It all depends on your interior. I didn't want the carpet or any of that stuff. My frame rail is trashed, i'm going to have to fab up some new stuff, just wondering if there are strong enough places to weld it up to. I was thinking about some Dynamat, but that would be a PITA to install in this car. I would like to see it installed.

Well, I actually didn't have must rust damage (for a z), there were a few places where the water must have pooled (where the drain plugs were). I actually took all the drain plugs out, and glassed over them, I did clean the area good with a wire brush and made sure there was no loose metal. I was going to put more glass on the bottom and maybe even some bedliner under a few "rust prone" areas. I can assure this stuff defiently has a water tight seal if put on correctly. I had a trash can that I threw the old carpet and misc in and it was at least 2x (ore more) the weight of the material I put on. I agree, there is a huge sound deadening effect with this. If this was not a Colorado car all its life, I would have defiently cut out and replaced metal.

herculiner from checker actually, i read a lot of people saying it was the best. $100 for the kit, and I still have some left for touchups later. It worked great, just don't get it on your hands. There is still a few places I want to cover up with fiberglass, but this is a great start.

Update: 7/3/07 Fixed some rust with fiberglass, and cleaned / put bed liner instead of the nasty carpet that was in there. First Coat: Final Coat:

My turbo looks exactly like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holset-HY35-HY35W-Dodge-Cummins-Turbo_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ001QQitemZ110266451131QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

To clarify you haven't put the turbo on the car yet? There is going to be a ton of vac hoses for the emissions on that car...

Still having an issue with this problem, and just don't know what else to check. Put in another R200 rear, new oil, etc..Rechecked balance on wheels/tires, checked all the ujoints on driveshaft / haft shaft. It only happens at around 30 mph, and when you get to around 60 mph. I was going to pull the shafts and have them checked for balance, maybe replace the joints just in case. Just wondering what else you can suggest. How would I go around to check driveline angles? Thanks for all the help guys.

Don't sell it.. again.... I'm going to be in the same setup as you have soon, need some support!!!

Ahh, I see your point there. Do you have a picture of your setup? What am I to do with the grommet in the compressor housing?

Actually, I guess there is no bracket, it just bolts onto the turbo?

Ok I was wondering, but on my hy35 there is a small rubber grommit that the actuator goes in, it does not use a hose or anything, as you can see in the 1st picture. The ebay actuator is the same thing, apparently the hy35w had a differnt actuator. If i can get a universal that is fine. I need one that is has a small PSI rating, which is what I was looking for thanks, anyone recommend a certain brand or would an ebay type be ok? Hopefully I can find a bracket somewhere.

To clarify its the actuator for the wastegate. Here are some pictures, the guy that sold it to me said it was a HY35 but i'm not really sure if he knew what he was talking about.

Ahhh, I understand. Probially a pain to tune the MAF, might as well go with TPS / MAP for now? Thanks for the answers.

Bought a hy35 off ebay for pretty cheap. Seems to have almost 0 shaft play. I'm not sure about this turbo, so I have a few questions. Missing the wastegate, where would I be able to find one of these? I heard some people modify the wastegate hole also. Also missing the tube that goes to the intake side of the turbo, I think its a vac tube that goes to the wastegate as well. Just wondering where I can find these parts. TIA

Thats my exact question, why is everyone adding a MAF? I can't wait to get rid of the stock 280z MAF. But MAF is very very accurate, i'm sure more then a MAP, would this be any performance gains?

Looking to swap in a turbo motor soon, and might as well do MS / ford EDIS. So I see a lot of people using a 93 Cobra MAF in some setups, MS supports MAF I assume, but why do they use a ford maf? Why not a GM maf, etc? Also, can you not run a MAF and just do TPS / MAP? I searched and just can't find the answers... Thanks!

Looking to turbo my 1977 L28 NA. Just trying to gather parts. Looking to get megasquirt /spark going with ford EDIS, hy35 turbo, use the NA head for now, ebay ic (??), injectors, normal stuff. My friend has a some cummins truck parts, and hes willing to sell (2) hy35s for a steal, just want to make sure they are the correct. I'm assuming they are the non 90 elbow version. Am I missing anything that I will need? Other then fabbing up some tubing.

Awesome video!

Took the rear apart, and there is a slight, very slight problem with one of the side half shaft bearings. Could it be causing all the problems? Its not noticeable unless you are looking for it.

Nah I drive that ♥♥♥♥ without the bolts. Tried to lighten up the car for racing. I was in the process of removing the driveshaft to make sure there was no noise from the tranny or driveshaft. I knew that I had to take it apart to get to the rear anyway. Was actually tough to get the driveshaft bolts out with all that removed. I might put it all back when I get a new rear....

pictures are worth 1000 words.

Got my 280z running and it was OK for a week or so, then there was some noise while driving, and it eventually turned into a scary situation like the ujoints were about gone. After inspection the unjoints seem fine, so we thought maybe the rear end bearing, or gears. IT only happened with certain speeds while driving, but was just making all kinds of noise and shake. Lifted it on jacks and ran it, and it was just shaking all over. Well more then defiantly its a rear end we think. Problem is, not sure which rear we have (new to zcar stuff) car is a 77 manual tranny, so signs point to R200? Well would it be better to repair or just find a new rear? Would any R200 work? What else could I do? How can I tell exactly what rear I have? I'm sure its stamped somewhere? Driveshaft has been replaced, and on the shaft is salvage yard stamped 73 240z auto. Not sure if that will help or not. Just trying to figure out what needs to be done to get my baby back up and running. Thanks in advance.

Mine is ORANGE, not orange.

Don't jump on that too quick. Still a lot of work to do. Once you paint it you find a ton more dents, flaws, etc. Drove it into town today, no headlights yet, but runs good.

I commented on getting a good mask. If you try paint without a mask, you would not make it 20 minutes.