tech9

A quick MS question that I can't find an answer to. I have 440cc supra injectors, how can I tell which is the negative or pos wire? Or does it not matter? Thanks!

Wow prolax, nice. Except I would barely trust my engine on the harbor freight engine stand.

I guess you can setup an external relay that is triggered by the "relay board" relay. I can see how a large fan (taurus, etc) will burn the traces. Good thing I read this first before trying.

Finally have it painted: Before: Primer First glimpse of outside since 08 I will post up some better pictures with a real camera tomorrow. Finally got the trim and everything back on.

I love that paint gun, that I what I use and its great. And for the price you can throw it away and get a new one if it breaks. Good job!

Also conflicting info here: http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_LS1.htm http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm#groundpull I modded my MS already using the 2nd link, where you go from R29/R27 not the LEDs directly, and also a 1k resistor not 4k7. Blah!

Ahh, so you mean hook up the +5v to the coil constant, and use ground switching to "fire" it? or the other way around, which is more complicated of course? I read a lot of conflicting info, on how LS1/LS2 coils are different, blah blah. I think I got it straight now.

Matt, this post might be right up your alley, Almost ready to get the COP using vr crank sensor (derek's setup seems like it will work awesome!) I'm using LS2 coils, which are +5v pullup (I think, hopefully) so it needs the 2N4033 transistor instead of ground switching which just uses a 1k resisitor for the Spark A,B,C correct? I used the info on this page: http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm#5Vpull I'm assuming that you build Spark A circuit going to "IGN / pin 36" from top of R26 Spark B going to SPR4 / pin 6 from top of R29 Spark C going to SPR2 / pin 4 from top of R27 No need for spark D Are there any other mods needed to the board for this to work? I have done the VR input mods already. Also with these outputs, it will not interfere with my IAC / fan programmed output correct?

Bought one from someone on here, and I guess its from an earlier Z cause the connector is different. Looking for the 2 row connector, not the 3 row.

Call arizona zcar, I just bought mine from them a few weeks ago.

Anyone have an idea of how to mod the S30 console to fit the T5 Shifter in? I thought after installing my pro50 shifter it would fit, but its not even close, maybe if I take off about 1-2" of material on the front of the console, which don't sound fun and will look horrible. Anyone have ideas on a way to fix this without destroying the console?

Forget the last 100 things I said. Found the problem and fixed it. A local colorado Z guy msg me, and told me he had the same issue with broken studs on the rear cover. So I inspected again, finding the previous owner put 2 different washers on the diff to mush bar, causing 1 to keep loosening even when torqued. Replaced both washers with new ones, torqued, perfect now. I can't believe it. Here is the washer in question, does this look right, the new ones I got worked perfect, just wondering what happened there?

I would have to agree with the 2x diffs bad, since highway is almost perfect at high speeds 5th gear, but you never know. I will mess with the timing/dissy stuff this weekend when I have more time. The 280zx dissy is the one with 2x connectors on the black box, I have a few of them laying around, and I hate them, I can't wait for EDIS. Thanks for the help everyone.

Let me put this out there: how much slack is too much slack on the rear? I noticed that on both rears there was some noticable slack.

Non turbo, stock NA motor. I have the dissy hooked up to a constant vac on the intake. I tried without vac, same issues. I timed using a timing gun, tried different timings, etc. I mean maybe i'm not real clear, it don't happen only at low speeds, it happens all the time. Crusing at 50, 30, pulling into the driveway, out of it, etc. I can just make it happen easy at low speeds. It dont happen when there is a lot of load on the drivetrain, ie accleration/deaccleration. To me it feels like slack, and the diff is making the clunking noises. Maybe I have 2 bad diffs? Should I have the other one checked out? Im running out of options here, and funds for this damn project. About ready to switch to honda. Everything seems tight on the suspension side, the diff is really the only area that could be causing the issues i'm assuming now. I really did think it was the ujoint on the half shafts and it turned out it wasn't. Maybe it wouldn't hurt to source another rear and put it in there, i'm a pro at taking the diff out now.

No, 280zx dissy, tried 4 different ones. (including 1 new reman one) I really really do hope it is the dissy problem, since i'm going to convert to EDIS / COP soon.

I tried to hook up my webcam under the car so I can see what was going on, but it was just too loud and too shaky to see anything But I did get some phone videos and you can clearly hear the knocking i'm talking about, and you can also see when it happens. Only took about 5 minutes to get some good shots. pulling up to driveway slowly slowing down to turn corner in 2nd Backing out of driveway reverse These are normal driving conditions, this should not be happening.

To bring this post back from the dead: Let me start by letting you know what I changed: Distributor (it is nothing engine related for sure, 100%, not 99% 100%) Flywheel Clutch / disc included Transmission (t5 swap) Driveshaft from t5 and rebuilt Half-shafts were rebuilt Put in new swaybar bushings / endlinks Swapped back to my original rear end (which I might swap back because this one is a little noisier) Still has this problem, and its not just a little, its bad. Its violently thrusts when slowing down, reverse, slow 1st gear, etc. You can hear movement in the rear, not really sure where its happening, but i'm tempted to hook up a camera down there while driving. No idea what could be causing it. Nothing "appears" loose or any slack. I mean the rear has some slack but same as the other diff I put in. I even took it to a shop, and they didn't even want to look at it. (we don't do those old RWD z's ) It actually seems worse now. Any ideas please?!?

Sorry to butt in, but that video of the drive is pretty damn awesome. Best sounding / driving NA Z i've ever seen! Good work!

I have a few 240sx tb's with the tps on it, but no connector to plug into the tps. I would hate to cut the wires, anyone have a spare laying around? -Joe

Junk yard!

I wish I woulda kept my a/c, but at least I have a heater still!

Whatever that means!

Mightyvac is the BEST way to bleed yourself, or all together. Its so awesome.

For some reason the noise you hear sounds like timing chain? Have a stethoscope you can figure where the sound is coming from? Also don't waste your money on those plugs, just get a copper core one, esp while testing!