tech9

The external VR, at least the one that I had, was a PITA to adjust, I ended up buying a parts store one, and plan to swap to 280zx or gm2wire as Mr.INSANE just stated.

I've seen that you need to use a "solid" cam once you switch, but I'm not sure. I have an extra head I would like to convert to solid also.

77 280z stock motor - l28et in the works 77 280z stock motor - girls 83 280zx parts car - RAWR!

I took the BCDD off my 77 280z engine, and it has a backfire when shifting at high rpms also, its just because its slowing down so fast.

I would like to know prices too, defiently want some parts if you still have/making them!

Checking all the parts, should be STD though.

Wow that is amazing, that's why you also take your stuff to a nice professional shop. I have clients that are body repair and they get reamed for little things, nothing AT ALL like this. Hope he got this fixed.

Going to redo piston rings, bearings, check the block (hot tank, plugs, etc) new cam, I guess maybe new rockers also? Mild headwork, etc. Any idea where to get good quality chrome rings?

Someone posted and said to let them soak in injector cleaner, hold them open and spray cleaner through, etc, etc. I'm sure it don't help if the injector is just worn out or dirty fuel was ran through them. They actually did have a little better pattern it seemed, but its still pretty 'streamy'. Going to swap out known good injectors and we'll see.

Yet another update, if anyone is listening I took off all the injectors, tested and cleaned them. They have a funky pattern on most of them, could this be the problem? Weird thing is I put new plugs in, checked them, and only the middle 2 of them are clean, the rest are black.

I couldn't find a thread on this, but can you remove the EGR from a N47 intake? Is it worth doing that and patching the hole? I wanted to shave the intake on a new engine, and can't find a cheap N42 intake and might as well use what I have.

Ok been messing with this car a lot this weekend. Swapped in a 280ZX dissy, that corrected what I thought to be most of the problems, but not much. So I threw out thinking the ignition module could be bad, etc. I swapped from a working Z, maf, computer still no dice. I took off valve cover, did a valve adjustment, compression test (all around 90-100 cold) all the mechanical on the engine look fine. Drained the old gas, dropped in some 91 octane, plugs have carbon on them so I think all the wires are firing correctly. I tried to set the timing as per the service manual, but at 10 degrees (as the book says) it actaully runs worse then before. High rpms seem almost no missing, but low rpms have a hickup. You can drive it down the road to test, and it will make it, just very slow acclerating. I know i'm missing something stupid maybe, any hints? TIA

I think someone pulled the head and maybe replaced the timing chain, after disassembling part of the motor, it looks pretty good inside, a little tarnish on the cam from sitting, but there was oil in the pan, so hopefully the bearings are good. Is it worth upgrading the cam?

Received this today: Looks pretty clean, definitely has been sitting for years at the yard, by the look of the cam, etc. Now from the looks of the head, it looks like solid lifters, I see people wanting solid, some wanting hydraulic, what do I want? Pressure washer did wonders on the oil covered engine.

So I can run the stock tranny, stock flywheel?, stock FPR, stock fuel pump for now? What does everyone think about flywheel/clutch upgrades? What about the ebay intercoolers?

This thread is mainly for my log, but is always going to be used as informational resource for the site. 1977 280z - Colorado car 100k miles on chassis Has the stock L28, 5 speed trans (runs good, little oil burn from sloppy valves) Parts I currently have: L28ET from a junk yard with ~100k miles, complete engine minus turbo. P90 head, stock cam 77 stock manifold, going to shave, remove egr, etc 240sx TB supra 440cc injectors stock 5 speed tranny (not t5) hy35 turbo Parts I need: Custom injector rail Aeromotive FPR MSD fuel pump felpro head gasket ARP head studs megasquirt (and all the rest of the goodies involved) ford EDIS system intercooler + piping (ebay?) Parts I need soon: T5 transmission new flywheel? better cam brake upgrade 11-4-08 Engine should arrive Thursday. Pics plus updates soon.

Thanks for all the great replies. Any problem with the water issues on felpros? Is OEM any better? With the right tune, I can't see the headgasket blowing even with 20psi +, i've ran my buick over 20 psi and its 15 year old stock headgaskets.

Definitely going to get some ARP hardware. Which gaskets are multilayer metal?

Building a L28ET, p90 head, hy35, etc, etc. Can't figure out what headgasket to use. Some say felpros are good till 15 psi, of course there are the MSA gaskets ~$200+. I read a ton of threads all contradicting each other. I was thinking of going with the cheap felpro metal gaskets, and if it blows then maybe get something better? Anyone running the felpros and it holding up? TIA

Main problem was the distributor, swapped with a good one, and ran 100% better, still something else causing slow acceleration, but after inspecting old dissy, it was missing bolts, someone stripped others, etc.

I did check the fuel pressure while it was misfiring, it goes around 30-40 psi, which seems enough. I'm going to pull the valve cover and check if there is any valve / rocker damage.

Bought a new Z this weekend, having a little trouble figuring out the problem with the engine. I did drive it home, which was over 30+ miles away, and it did have a little problem with acceleration but once you got on the highway, around 50 mph it wasn't as noticeable. Starting off is real bad, backfire, etc. Here is what I tested: ignition module, coil, checked tps, checked afm, all see good. Checked the manual and it said the same things I checked, which all see to be working (swapped off a running l28). One problem I see, when hooked to a fuel pressure gauge, is that its losing pressure when the car is off. Maybe the regulator is causing all this? Any help is appreciated, thanks! -Joe

Those have to be from your creeper. I doubt non sealed bearings would be on any suspension parts.