tech9

I've seen some pulleys that are the same size as stocks but alum, but for some reason I remember them changing the actual belt also to some weird serpentine setup.

I saw a picture once with a nice 3rd light, can't find the pic though. It was on the top of the hatch glass, maybe it was custom, but it look manufactured.

To give this thread some info, here is how I got everything working for the t5/fidenza install. Here is the difference between the 2 trannys. Here is the "mod" that was required to get the clutch off the "thinner" alum flywheel. Difference in driveshafts (orig on left, 83 280zxt on right) Was the perfect lengthi, except a little tight to fit around the rear swaybar. How closer the "stock 280zxt" shift is to the front of the opening. I will post once I get my mustang shifter installed.

To make a long story short, I swapped in a t5 into my 77 280z. Using the 83 280zx t5, driveshaft, diff flange, mount etc. When swapping I installed a new exedy clutch and pressure plate, but reused the slave cyl, throwout bearing, etc. I also installed my fidenza flywheel just for kicks. Well FINALLY got it all complete, and the clutch seems to not want to let go. I thought it was a slave cyl problem, or the rod not long enough, etc. So I made sure the clutch was pushing the fork all the way back, which it is. I doubt I installed the clutch wrong because it really only fits 1 direction. (the side of the clutch with the thicker middle piece toward the pressure plate) and everything looks as if its functioning properly. I really would hate to take the tranny back out, so maybe a few tips first. Maybe I need to adjust the fork ball? PS. the tranny was taken out of a parts car, with all of the parts in working order.

I love it!

What did you origionally insure with Hagerty? I put $20k on my Grand Nat, and i've talked to a few others that had hail, etc, and they just wrote them a check no questions.

Purchased that turbo in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150244&highlight=power+master Supposedly a "master power" turbo, which is a high quality turbo, etc etc blah blah. I told seller I would purchase and if it was in fact not a knockoff, he agreed saying I got it at a local turbo shop etc, and that he paid a bunch and is selling WAY cheaper then what he paid, etc. Got the turbo, in fact a few good people msged me in transit saying it was a knockoff and be careful etc. After looking up a few things, I was assured indeed it was a knockoff, so I msged seller, he said if I didn't like it, I could return. (I would pay shipping of course) and hes not trying to rip anyone off. This was a month ago, with no response from the seller (via email / pms) I tried a paypal dispute which is worthless because apparently if you buy a Ferrari with paypal, and you get sent an escort its "ok" with them. I'm not so pissed that the turbo was wrong, but that the seller is hiding out now. The turbo did arrive in pretty good packing, and new, etc etc, but its not the turbo as described. Is a bank charge back going to be necessary? I'm not saying that "TommyZ" is bad, but this just needs to get straightened out. I hate to see this type of trade happening on this site. And the mods have no safeguards for this sort of thing. I trade a lot on some "pc modding" websites, and they are very very strict on this type of trading. Anyone know info on this guy, or advice on what to do? TIA -Joe

Going to swap over to my n42 intake, with my 440 injectors on my NA engine now, just to test waters for the new engine install. I got MS 2 board, and currently running 280zx dissy (non turbo) Eventually, i'm going to try and get COP / VR crank sensor/ IAC etc going. My question is, can I run no O2, and no IAC for now? Trying to just do 1 thing at a time, and work up to more things later. I have the MS2 built, and have it setup for VR right now, was planning on running the 280zx dissy for now, I have a 81 turbo dissy, but I guess it will be even more work to switch? Other then the TSP hookup / IAT / CLT, what else would I need to get this going? I built the board a few months back, and man did I forget a lot! Any help appreciated!

I'm sure it would just cost hourly for the time for them to do it. There is a body shop close by that has a laser tester, and it takes them longer to set everything up then to pull it out.

Well I can tell you the breaker plate is defiantly broken, since I did find ball bearings in it loose. I actually have 3, I wonder if I can convert into 1 good one maybe. Are the auto parts reman ones any good?

EDIS, well sort of, going to run LSx coils direct from MS. Hopefully. Have pretty much new everything else also, f54, p90, hy35, MS, etc etc. Just trying to get the car in check till I get the new stuff all done! I do have a spare dissy that I can try though, at least rule that out before I tackle the intake gasket maybe!

Actually autozone has them, I think. Anyone tried this?

I have a small leak in my either heater core or hose that connects the heater core, can't find the answer yet, but I would rather maybe replace the hose first to make sure it isn't that. Can you buy this hose anywhere, looks sorta special. DATSUN 260Z 280Z HEATER HOSE SET CORRECT FROM AUG 1973 TO 1978 MODEL YEARS.FITS BETWEEN HEATER VALVE AND CORE INSIDE CAR PART: ZRB07B $29.00 US. * Found this on google, mine have a mesh over them.

Wait, all Z's don't have rust?!? Nice looking car, with some care it can be a badass!

I will try some more things tomorrow, thanks for all the help. I have changed to a 280zx distributor, maybe i'll swap another one in there and try it also. I can't wait to get rid of this stuff and get all my new stuff in...

When you let off the gas on stock EFI computer isn't there no fuel being used till under so many RPM?

Ok a few interesting things I found out today. Car drives great on the highway now from the poly mustache bushings! I guess I lied about the acceleration part, i checked everything, replaced the rotor / cap, checked plugs wires, etc. Not really any missing that I can tell at least. But it happens at more times then I expected. When i'm in 4th gear going around 30-35 and i slow down at say a stoplight, it jerks a lot with no gas pedal. Without any load on the diff, in Neutral / Clutch in, everything seems fine. So i'm guessing maybe the front diff mount, I mean what else could it be?

Not the first time someone said engine, but its not, I have checked it over and over, but I will check again just in case. It happens all the time, night day hot cold. The car runs like a top, can't feel a misfire on acceleration or idle.

Front to back, almost feels like when you start a car in the wrong gear, but multiplied by 10.

I've had this jerking at low speeds for a few months now, and I can't seem to find out what it is. It happens in this sweet spot at which you have very little throttle, almost just coasting. I can get it to happen almost always now at around 25 mph or so. It also has a kind of clunking while its doing it and it jerks the whole car. It almost feels like something is loose, etc etc. I checked everything in the rear, everything visually looks good except for the mustache bushings. The driveshaft is rebuilt, fairly new fluids in diff / tranny. I ordered the master hyperflex kit and replaced the mustache bushing last night and the problem still persists. I plan on doing most of the bushings but I would love to know what this problem is, any ideas? Sounds like suspension to me, but could it be something else?

Just checking, didn't want to damage it and goto the junk yard and have to start all over Thanks!

Is there a trick to seperate the 2? I soaked with some PB blast, and still can not get the 2 pieces to even budge. Installing the MM vented brake setup and got stuck here.

Ignore that, I figured it out. Guess I do have the correct one.

I can't seem to find one, and I ordered one from the auto parts and of course its the wrong one (has the flange up and down instead of sideways) I guess the 79 ones fit on the older boosters, can you swap the whole booster setup or what do people do?

Looking good, were you going to maybe undercoat later? I want to do the same to mine.