yo2001

You can get PTE SC61 if you don't mind some surge and non BB CHRA. Same compressor wheel as GT35R (gt40 wheel) with stage V turbine OR they have a new one out SC3561? (I think) which has anti surge cover.

it's listed on the classfield. A/R is little bit for I-6 though.

Depends on the turbine A/R housing. But for 400WHP, GT35R with 82mm 56trim would be a better choice. I have GT37 for sale which is little smaller than GT35R.

.81 is small for a 6L engine. .81 on proper setup, you can do on 3L-3.5L

I had all the comics once. In Japan they did made a twinturbo S30 for an action movie.

Depends, crank HP or Wheel HP? Pump gas (octane?) or race gas? I say it's hard to do on pump gas. On race I've seen 500+WHP on HX35.

Surge? lol

yes. You use the bigger HX45comp. wheel on smaller HX35 turbine wheel

HX35 isn't variable. That'll be the new powerstroke with Garrett. You can always do HX45/35 hybrid for high HP setup.

T3 wheels are just heavier to get it to go to spinning. Inertia. Mitsu wheels in the SRT and EVO are thinner, lighter, hence better response. You ought to see dual BB CHRA between fast shift, it'll hoover like 5 psi boost.

Anti lag also needs O2 to ignite the fuel good so 0 throttle antilag needs an aux. air valve. Just to keep the poeple less confused with WRC antilag and dragracing launch control antilag

There was a thread about this before. More timing (max timing no ping) will give most power. Since you are giving more power (torque, high cylinder pressure) you rev faster leading to more exhaust flow. Higher rpm more exhaust flow, more spool. But if in case the same rpm (like two step) less timing will spool the turbo due to its heat. (heat=energy) Tune for max timing = most power.

I don't think it's really not big enough. 43mm inducer is little. Hybrid turbo starts somewhere in the 50mm+

I know if you go with Z31 dizzy optical and Z31 ignitor, you shouldn't need a MSD, basically Haltech needs Trigger at TDC and another trigger at TDB I think. (some uses TDC Trigger and rev reset on sae signal) and what you are talking about is same setup like MagaSquirts. I've seen Loosescrew's setup and he's using MSD to control dwell. You should see how these guys are setting the ignition.

You really shouldn't need to have a fancy MSD with Haltech since it does everything you can thing of. I don't know for sure on E6X but on my E6K, you would have to alter the charge time way down to run the MSD box or else it'll overheat the coil or ignitor. 1.5-2.5ms.

because the mixture is not as dense with 20degree before TDC than 15 degree? that's my guess, but I always cured the stumble with timing and spark plug gaps

Try BPR7ES gapped around .028" see if the stumble goes away. it sounds like blowing out the sparks.

Don't go taking out 40deg at first. The base should be just little atdc with 10% fuel added. Also don't want to drop all cylinder at once but every other cylinders for every 2 cycle or something like that. when you drop all the cylinder at once, it really bogs and shoot a tall falme eout of tailpipe.

That's a good bit of difference btw O and P trims. There are different P trims circulating around so you might have better luck with something different. I've seen 3 different Ptrims from 12 blade, 11 blade and 11 blage gen III. The P trim also suppose to be taller for better windage to get the wheel to spin compare with an O trim with small exducer. I think the fine compromise btw the two is 10 blade stageV wheel. Or there are other GT turbine wheels out there like GT37 wheel which is like 10 bladed version of a P trim.

I don't think you can make less back pressure than actual boost intake pressure. That would be my guess though. I was always told to aim for anything less than 2:1 ratio. So 40psi back pressure or less on 20psi boost. Actually use an oil pressure gauge to measure the back pressure. You would have to used copper line until it's far enough away from the manifold. Or you can go with a new AEM boost sensor. 3.5bar or higher reading is what you need.

SRT-4 got some crazy 16G I think. and there is about noway you can surge the turbo on 2.4L but you could go other way to the right size of the map pretty easy. SRT4 seems really finicky about things.

I would T it off with the boost signal for the WG. The bottom port doesn't need to see the vacuum from the intake

It's set too lose probably. Tighten down and use the bottom port, it'll help opening up the BOV even when you set the BOV tighter. I run Greddy type-R with 30psi spring with bottom port hooked up. Only time it doesn't open is below 3-5 psi.

What kind of BOV? Greddy can flatter if you are using both ports and bottom port is getting more pressure than top port. You can control the bottom port pressure with EBC or just a regulator.

Sounds like turkey gubble but 10 x louder and it happens in low VE area.