yo2001

Even with a 60-1, the power still peaked at 5500-5700rpm. the power peak cause by the intake design and cam limitation.

There is a special press that'll press the compressor off but you would need to have the seal plate on to use it. Doh. Only way that I know is to turn slowly and pull. But you prolly will damage the shaft by pulling the compressor wheel off that way. I'll see what I can do.

Post up what went wrong, I might be able to help you if you can described what happened.

Wouldn't you want to keep the A/F mixture coming into the engine closer to the flame front? With the first set of pistons, you'll be sending all the mixture to the outside, closer to the ring lands, away from the flame front. Since the ringland is what's weakest on the pistons, I would choose the second set to keep the A/F in the center close to the flame front. Closer to the flame front, less timing you need to make power also.

I guess I can stick in the gallery here. http://album.hybridz.org/uploads/8363/TO4B.jpg

I got an exploded view of To4B out of Garrett catalog if you want it. It depends on the type of thrust bearing but with a 260 degree bearing, the order of the parts (from the cold side) are compressor wheel, seal plate, thrust collar with a piston ring, thrust bearing. Don't forget o-ring around the center section and seal plate and a spring washer behind the seal plate if the thrust bearing is not bolted down. Also, two journal bearings and 2 snap rings per bearing. A piston ring on the turbine wheel and a heat sheild in front of the turbine wheel.

early 70's crank was weaker than the later ones due to lack of couterweights I think. The L6 crank goes to harmonic somewhere in the 7500rpm also.

If it's same as the Tial, the boost controller hooks up to the side port. THe top port applies pressure to the diaphram.

The GT CHRA and some T25 has 5/8?? inverted flare. FYI

You can hear the BB CHRA whistle in lower throttle blips and at idle. Sort of sounds like a small supercharger. Even between shifts.

or 1/4 NPT. lol

larger WG will allow better and faster boost control. I doubt anyone needs anything more than 38mm until you get to T series turbo or large GT.

only difference is the pistons. As long as you can keep the car from detonating, the N/A block handle boost fine. That's what I was running. Still running as far as I know

yap. The rule of thumb is to use the spring half of the desire max. boost. Anything more is going to be hard to control. So 14psi spring is good up to 28psi +/- 2psi. Also if you are internal WG running larger flapper, you are more likely to have the flapper blow open because the pressure applied to the flapper under boost square roots times the flapper diameter.

I still don't think the maps above are correct. I think in the real world, the 50 trim isn't big enough to justify the cost. Don't get me wrong, it's a great wheel but still not convienced. Noone ever got a 50 trim dyno right? what kind of VE was used to caculate that? Also was the VE altered as the boost increase? I would think the VE would go up as the boose goes up.

H3 and 60-1 isn't going to make too much difference. Only difference is going to be the inducer. 2.298" vs 2.324". H3 is like a cut down version of 60-1. You might get little more HP from bigger turbine wheel (don't know what the stage 4 is) and .60 A/R To4E cover.

It'll spool faster on a 2.8L 6 cylinder I say. Holset is bada$$ with their "map width enhancement groove" on the wheel. With anti-surge port. "drool" I've hear some diesel guys are running HX35/40 hybrid with good result.

YOu can go standalone and do everything on one unit. o, my new AIM yotsi

Not that I know of. it controls boost via rpm though.

Haha, I successfully confused you more. lol Here is the break down. Compressor side .50 or .60 A/R compressor housing 60trim or 60-1 compressor wheel(s)(will need a different seal plate for a 60-1 = more $$$) Exhaust side .63 A/R T3 turbine housing Stage III or stage V turbine wheel(s) (T31 and T350 I think) It's not the cheapest hybrid out in the market. 57 trim compressor wheel be cheaper. or crappy 54 trim. 50 trim is expensive.

I've not seen .70 A/R exhaust housing. I know of .48, .63, and .83? Those are standard T3 turbine housing. You would want .50 or .60 A/R To4E compressor housing. I don't think anything bigger will clear the manifold without major work. The stage III turbine wheel is ok for a moderate turbo. If you want big power, the Stage V and P trim would be better choice. I've seen stage V on .63 housing with pretty impressive result. JeffP's old turbo had stage V wheel in .63 housing. Ptrim are in the T62 (whatever people call it) cars. As far as compressor wheel goes, I say 60 trim or 60-1. I had full boost at 3500rpm or so with .60 HI-fl T04B with 60-1/stageIII/.63 A/R. That was on P79 head with L26 stock bottom end. I think compression was about 7.8:1. Lockjaw ran .60 To4E with 60trim with stage V/.63 A/R and he was getting full boost about 3200rpm if I remember correctly. That was with P90 with small cam/ L28 with Ross pistons/L24 rods combo. 8:1 comrpession I think. BUt these turbos are old school, the new GT's will make more HP when you turn the boost up high.

try disconnecting the MAF and see if you can get it to crank and idle on the safe mode. I had the same problem and it turned out to be a bad MAF. swap the MAF and it ran like how it suppose to.

Actually .63 and stage III works well. the stock L6 doesn't rev that high to justify having alot of lag.

I usally pull the dizzy out and rotate the shaft with the key on "ON" position. Better? lol

With the key on "ON" position, you can hear the CAS triggering when you turn the dizzy around.