Xnke

First post of the linked thread. Not TL;DR.

Yep, I used an MPSA42 the first time, gain was only 40-70 and it would read up to about 1800RPM and it was done.

More info on the tach: The tach circuit from the MS manual is correct, and works perfectly with my 95 maxima speedometer. I used a 1k resistor from +12v to the collector of the transistor, 1k resistor from the base of the transistor to JS2 on the megasquirt v3.0 board, and I used an NTE123AP transistor...basically a hotted up version of the old 2N2222A that is recommended in the manual. I had one handy, so I used it. The standard 2N2222A should do the job just fine.

Unlikely. I paid 75$ at the local pull-a-part yard last fall.

Tach needs a 0-12V pulse, the offset needs to be correct, and 0-5V won't do it. Gotta make sure that there is a common ground reference too, or it'll do that.

Sealant doesn't hold those in. The interferance fit does. I'd look at the plug being not installed correctly or the wrong size (metric vs. standard) plug being driven in because "it's close enough".

Right now, I've solved the belt-slip problem...the tensioner is flexing. I need to add another support to it, to keep it from rolling downward on acceleration. Simple enough, a simple wedge block behind the tensioner pressing on the timing cover plate fixed it last night; I'll weld the block in place and call it gravy.

If you want to make that budget happen, you need to find a complete, running car and pull the engine out of it. Trying to do this piece by piece isn't going to come out NEARLY as cheap as buying it complete. That cam looks like it has some rust on the tops of some of the lobes. If it does, it will have to be polished, at a minimum, or reground at the most. The bores will probably be OK if you can get the crap out of them, the bearings look fine. Break those pistons loose and pop them out the top of the block and check for broken rings, and check the bores for out of round.

I spent 810$ for all the bearings, new pistons, rings wrist pins, cam regrind, ARP rod bolts, complete valve job, and all the gaskets to rebuild mine. That 810$ includes the machine work to bore the block to 88mm. I bought everything except for the pistons locally. Call your Nissan dealer for bearings, see if they can get you any. They're NLA in almost all the Nissan books, though. If you can't get Nissan bearings, Clevite makes them both in the standard and the 77 material, and ACL Australia makes them, as does ITM. I used Nissan bearings, for both the mains and rods, and have a set of ITM bearings on the shelf. I got my ITM pistons from Northern Autoparts, came with rings and pins.

It's a Mazda Millenia S Supercharger; it's an IHI unit that uses Lysholm 1200AX rotors. The old seals don't last, it was a pressurized oil unit and I am looking to convert it to sealed operation. I won't even get back to it until after Branson Z fest, so it may be a while. My intention was to find a teflon lip seal that would fit the housing, or the housing could be machined to fit, for the 17mm shaft diameter. The rear bearing housing often has a teflon seal fitted, and Eaton's needle bearing grease packed into it and the oiling ports blocked off, while the front bearing assembly retains the crappy IHI dynamic seals and fills the gearcase with 50wt synthetic. I'm looking to fit the teflon seals all the way round, then leave the full oiling system intact, but fill the gearcase and rear supply reservoir with a proper 50wt synthetic. After getting this thing cleaned of 5 years of 10W30 engine oil, of course! After re-tensioning the belt using a tension gauge, the slipping is 100% stopped. I have more belt wrap on both pulleys than the OEM application, with the OEM belt size, and the drive ratio is less than the stock 2.5:1 that the OEM application used. I even looked at the OEM balancer assembly, and it only uses 1 key that is even smaller than the datsun key. Once I get the crank pinned properly I don't forsee any major issues with slip or crank snout damage, but we'll see when I get it there. New clutch/flywheel is ready to install, and I'm only waiting on the mainshaft and countershaft nuts for the transmission rebuild and re-installation.

I'm using 1987 S12+8 calipers on my vented rotors. Pre-1986 calipers are generally for solid rotors, post-1986 are generally vented rotors. They do overlap some in 1986. The S12+8 caliper can utilize the RX-7 pads if they are appropriately modified.

Make sure you realize that you would need the cam, the springs, the retainers, and lash pads, to install another cam. It's not a 80$ springs, and you're ready to rock job... it's 80$ springs, 140$ retainers, 140$ camshaft, 50$ lash pads...all of this is just reasonable guesses at the actual price...

Call Schneider and ask for the springs recommended for the Schneider cam you plan to run. if you are running a stock cam, there us really no need.

ugh sorting rockers...I did a whole full five gallon bucket not too long back...

The only lysholm I have is a 2.4" rotor diameter, 5.25" rotor length, 3/5 lobe setup that is currently dismantled due to needing some unobtanable seals. I've put it all aside for now, as I have to get the car running and driving on boost by the 25th of May.

I have had some, as evidenced by belt powder all over the bay. The belt doesn't appear worn at all, and it's tensioned to 180lbs, which is the maximum running tension for a 6-rib belt. I did have to re-tension it after the first two days, as it had stretched. And all of this is with no compressor load! I'm just dumping the air out through the core support right now, I have *got* to get that intake manifold machined and the fuel rail finished up.

It took a hellacious whacking with a 5lb deadblow for me to get them apart. What year is your pathfinder axle?

I knew an unthrottled roots blower was loud, sure. (and a twinscrew is even louder!) Just driving around it's not bad. When the power would be coming in....it's letting you, and EVERYONE within a mile know...that there is work being done!

This thing is ungodly loud over 3500RPM. It's only moving air...the outlet is open to atmosphere right now to make sure the belt tensioner is correct and that everything lines up. At 6000RPM it's on par with the exhaust, they are competing for who's louder...and the driver is loosing...his hearing, that is. Hopefully with the air filter enclosed and the filter box covered in sound deadener, and the outlet plumbed into the intercooler, the noise will be somewhat reduced.

As far as the headgasket goes, either works fine. The Beck will blow out the side on detonation, the fel-pro will blow between the cylinders or between a cylinder and a water jacket.

I thought that too, Tim, but all three of mine (Except the ZX and Maxima dampers) were actually 1/4-20.

Ok, this marathon weekend is finally over. Almost. Planning the next big weekend probably next month, might have a transmission swap between now and later. It all has to be done before May, though, so I can have some time to tune it. Here's where we started. Not much room for the supercharger belt there. So, we'll fix that right up. Here's the stock radiator with the two fans on it, as it was run in the car, next to the new Supra radiator. And in the car: Loads more room than before. Even have enough room to make a proper fan shroud now! Have to notch the frame to get it in there, this is a wide bastard of a radiator. While I'm this far in, I am sealing the A/C condenser core to the core support to help with flow through that too. And we'll call this land...uh...This Land! Still need to move the crank position sensor...it'll be in the way of the supercharger belt where I had it. I moved it to the stock 1981 turbo location: There, that's done. Might have to trim it to clear the A/C belt but we'll get there later. All my belt sizes changed because the new damper is larger in diameter. Here's the supra radiator fitted into place and mocked up: This is how I did the lower mount, it's actually not welded in place here, but is stitched to the lower core support along the front, and the cutouts in the frame are completely boxed back into place. Radiator in place, Belts on! But my fan shroud is a little wonky...And I'm out of Argon in the TIG tank. It'll do for now, but I don't have any photos of the finished shroud, or even the make-do shroud. (And it's a pain in the ass to get on and off the car!) I used the material I had on hand, and it had that 8x3" section cut out already. Most of that is cut away for a 12" fan anyway, but I'll weld a section into place later in the week. I'm running both the 12" fan and the 10" fan that I had on my stock radiator, but only the 12" is hooked up right now...and it's running full-tilt all the time until I can get the thermostat worked out. I don't like the brass probe type that pushes through the fins, they cause leaks in aluminum radiators. They're "ok" on copper ones, but I still would prefer to have the 12" fan controlled by the computer, with the 10" fan coming on with the A/C compressor. That's how I'll eventually get them wired up. The stock L24 upper radiator hose fit fine, and I cut a segment from a ZX lower hose (the tight 80* bend) and spliced it onto the stock lower hose to get it to fit. Now that I know what the hose looks like, when the engine comes out again I'll take that hose with me to the parts store and find something similar to fit. For now, it doesn't leak even at 21PSI, and that's plenty good enough.

This is an easy one guys... The tach didn't bounce before...but the battery is dead now. Any electrical load causes the tach to flip out... So... Get a new battery and run the system at full voltage and I bet it goes away.

That's the plan, actually. An axially aligned dowel pin retained by the crank bolt clamping washer, which would provide stock removal to speed up the keying process at a later date when the crank and damper are removed again. I'd only have to square out the bottoms of the channels, and install a square key.

I am going to have a look at doweling the crank snout and damper interface tomarrow morning. It's looking like an 0.093" dowel will fit nicely.