Xnke

Bringing this back from the dead. Yes, the RB20DET flywheel WILL fit the L28 or KA24 crankshaft. Yes, the 350Z clutch disk is 250mm, and will fit the RB flywheel AND the Fidanza L28 flywheel. Yes, the 350Z pressure plate (Stock 350Z pressure plate is 800kg clamping force) will fit the RB20DET, L28ET, and KA24DE flywheels. The advantage here is gaining the use of a 250mm friction surface, and a widely available inexpensive pressure plate with a higher clamping force than the stock pressure plate for the L28ET. There is a reason the OEM moved from 225mm, to 240mm, to 250mm clutch surfaces, namely drivability and harshness. Once the flywheel is purchased, the usage of the 350Z pressure plate and clutch disk makes future installations just as simple as a stock setup.

For reference, gentlemen, you aren't gaining anything with the ZX alternator swap anymore. All rebuilt ZX alternators that I have been able to source in the last two years (sample size six, from two different suppliers) are 60A units...So at best, you're eliminating the external regulator. If that's the goal, well, you might look into the KA24E alternators as mounted to the Nissan D21 trucks too. Early ones are 60A, and are the same unit as the ZX, but later ones (I haven't figured out the year split) are 95A units, with a similar 3-wire hookup and a weatherproof harness connector.

You are the only one who can determine what your modified oil pan should hold. That said, I'd start by looking at the service manual for the Maxima.

There isn't a good source. You don't need an LD pump, just get the OEM nissan pump (or Atsugi, that's what Nissan Japan is shipping these days) and be done with it. The LD pump bandaids a water jacket problem, and honestly I don't think it makes that big of a difference for a street car under 400HP.

Cheap Summit Racing glasspack and muffler, in standard sizes. I don't see spending 100$ on a glasspack, which is easily done with some brands. When I find a perforated tube glasspack in 100% stainless, then I might spend some money to get it in there, but so far I haven't found what I want, and the cheap part shows no signs of stress or degradation yet.

I used 4 feet of straight pipe and two 180* U-bends that had 12" long legs on them. So, 8 feet of straight pipe, plus two complete U-bends did the job in 2.5" with a glasspack in the tunnel and a muffler in the stock location.

If you're fuel injected and not running a sequential setup, then moving it forward isn't a problem. You'll be monitoring one whole bank; and let's face it...if bank 2 goes nuts then having the O2 sensor monitor both won't be a good idea...bank 1 would be affected as well as 2! The L will run on 1-2-3 or 4-5-6, so it works as a bit of a failsafe system...it'll get you home, at least. Moving it further down is fine too, but having it in the merge puts it kinda in the way of the scavenge pulses, disrupts flow in a very important location, I'd think.

Your BOV SHOULD let off boost at 1-2PSI when you drop throttle. It should open nearly any time that the manifold pressure is somewhat lower than the compressor outlet pressure.

No, you don't shorten the valves, you shim the towers up 0.030". There are 0.015" thick shims and 0.020" thick shims available.

You'd have to drill the EFI bolt holes, as well as the injector clearance notches.

Don't bother. If you're not going to change out the pistons, just shave an N42 head 0.030" and you'll be at 9.5:1. The P90 head is good, but it really should have flat-top pistons to have any kind of advantage over the N42. If you want a bolt on solution, that will work. But why raise the compression on a good running motor? The P90 head is a deep, modified wedge chamber. It's designed to work optimally on a flat-top piston. Running it on the dished piston in the turbo motors was done specifically to lower compression, but even running it as a flat-top motor would have been perfectly acceptable for the stock boost levels. Bottom line, unless you're willing to change out the pistons for flat-tops, don't go to the trouble of modifying a P90 head. Cut an N42 or N47 thirty thou and you'll be at the same compression, with a LOT less time, trouble, and money.

The weld will be brittle, and will eventually crack and break under the vibration and heat an exhaust system sees. Personally, I'd get the right flanges in mild steel. I've seen stainless headers welded to mild steel flanges with standard ER70S2 MIG wire not even last a year, but most last two years or sometimes more on street cars before they break.

Hangin' in there...too cold to get any real work done in the shop lately. Have a lot of the details worked out on the intake manifold, getting that side project finished up now. Back to radiator clearance, I've settled on the MkIII Supra radiator for the 7M-GE, as it is *very* close to fitting between the frame rails and is half as thick as the old copper core Datsun unit. It should cool the engine effectively, but the only sticking point is the width...it's a VERY close call as to whether I'll be able to slide it between the frame rails or not. 25 5/8" wide at the widest point of the lower tank, states the manufacturer, but we'll see when it gets here. I may have to notch the front frame rails to accept the lower tank crimp, as this is an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks. If it really just won't fit, well, I'll cut the tanks off and weld on aluminum tanks. That's a last-resort type option, though.

C63AMG...the only car I know of with a "Kill Driver" button on the dash, cleverly disguised as a "traction control on/off" button. Definitely the C63AMG...

A stock Z distributor can have anywhere between 10 and 20 degrees of mechanical advance...plus vacuum advance...You might want to start with the factory setting for your year of distributor first.

I wouldn't run that. How are you going to check for warpage if the deck is not clean?

if it is a stock advance curve, then you won't have 22* initial...more like 12 or 14.

What is your current timing map looking like? With a similar cam grind, my initial timing is 24* initial, and 36* by 3000RPM, running 40* under cruise vacuum. Set idle at 900RPM, and don't expect good torque until 2800-3200, depending on the tune and the rest of the setup...the pull from 3200 in second gear is pretty nice though....

Your new snap ring groove is how the factory ZXT axles are done. it's a double-thick groove to hold a double-thick circlip in place, the clip has a square cross-section. the outer clip is a regular snap ring on the outer CV and a round-wire push-in clip on the inner, but you *really* have to push hard to get it to compress into place. I think your inner bearing races are pushing up on the shafts and shortening your axles up.

You guys are missing the point made in my above post...You will be welding THIN sheet and tube to THICK flanges and plates. Once you get enough heat with the torch into the thick side of the weld, your thin side will be overheated and will give you FITS to get the join made. The torch simply doesn't have the fine control of heat that the TIG welder does. You will be years ahead of practice to spend the 1500-2500$ you'd spend on acetylene and oxygen, flux, rods, practice material and mask shades to just buy the TIG welder and be done with it. Hell, you could take JUST what you spend on practice material alone and buy a chinese TIG (they are fine machines, don't let any BUY'MERIKA screamer fool you. Jasic Inverter Co. makes a comparable machine to Miller, but it's in a bigger box.) and be done with it. Yes, Tinman shows a lot of stuff welded with a torch, that's where I get my aluminum flux and one of the lenses for my mask...but he's also been doing it for 25 years for aircraft skins. It's all sheet-to-sheet work, not sheet-to-bar or tube-to-bar. BIG difference.

Valves get tighter because a newly cut valve and seat will recede rapidly at first, then will be "mated" and will wear much more slowly...the cam lobe and rocker will wear together at a much slower rate than the new seat, which is usually a work-hardening material nowadays. The seats are actually soft, and harden by the impact of the valve seating on them, at least in modern seat materials. Basically you will see a period of rapid valve recession and the valve lash closing up, followed by a pretty abrupt change to little lash change on a properly adjusted system, then you'll start to see valve lash open up again, as the cam-to-rocker and rocker-to-lash-pad interfaces start to wear faster than the valve recedes into the seat.

Overlap is a red herring....intake valve closing point is the cam event you were looking for in order to make a 11:1 compression more detonation resistant. Run a flat-top L28, MN47 head, cam with a normal exhaust lobe and a long duration intake lobe (think 330+ degree duration intake lobe with a normal 230 degree exhaust lobe) and bolt on a twinscrew supercharger. BAM! Instant miller cycle engine!

I am going to be test-fitting some radiators from toyotas here soon; I'd like to go crossflow but I need clearance more than convienience, at this point.

Setting idle with the SU's is easy, if you have them balanced. Just use the idle adjust screw, idle up to 900RPM, set the balance, then use the screw up on the balance tube to up the RPM to 2000, and adjust the balance, back the screw that you upped the idle with all the way out and set idle mix again. Nothin' to it.

You will also need companion flange adaptors or modified companion flanges, to get the 4-bolt pattern right. I use modified companion flanges. The short axle shaft gets removed from the driver's side axle, and installed in the passenger side axle (can't swap diff stubs, different lengths) and the long passenger side axle gets dumped...short axle is front driver's axle shaft from a WD21 pathfinder 4WD (1990-1993), and a spacer. Your milage may vary, that's just how I did it.