Xnke

I've got one of those cams with the dowel pin smashed into it, but my machinist thinks it can be fixed...for a price. Is your cylinder head a hydraulic lifter P90 or a solid lifter? If it's a solid lifter, then the cam will *run*, but may not run that well, might run just fine, might run better than stock. I dunno how the ECU would handle it. Basically, under 4000RPM, and not at WOT, the ecu uses the AFM to calculate fueling. Over 4000RPM, or at WOT, the ecu enters a pre-programmed fuel curve. It can't make any kind of adjustment at that point, and is just going to follow that curve till it's under 4000RPM and less than WOT.

New injectors have been sourced, and the throttle linkage has been mostly worked out...I think I can get away with single return springs on each pair of throttles instead of the duals.

Project ADD has struck...before the plumbing gets done the airbox will get built, then a new intake manifold will be constructed. (Maybe. Might run what I got till I get the new manifold on.)

Shims come in 0.015" thicknesses, or 0.020" thicknesses, depending on who you buy from. Silver Seal has them listed on their website.

I'm plotting on a new manifold for my L, and have lost my notes on the length of the intake runner from the back of the valve to the intake manifold mounting face. I had measured along the port centerline, made all kinds of crazy jigs, and can't find them now. Does anyone know the length of the port runner from the back of the valve to the intake manifold mating face, along the centerline of the intake port?

Again, if you want 500HP in a Z31 and you do NOT want the VG, go with the RB. It'll be cheaper, faster, and more reliable. For instance: L28ET full engine swap: about 800$ for the engine+harness, WITHOUT the transmission you'd need to handle 500HP. More on that below. About the same money to completely rebuild an L to the level needed for a reliable 500HP. Looking at 1600$ here, not counting the head work, camshaft, or turbocharger. New turbo sized to make 500HP, add a grand, head work, at least 300$, cam is about 170$ or so to install and setup a regrind. 3170$ in engine work, so far. This does not include getting the engine into the car or getting the turbo plumbed, exhaust routed, fuel injectors, or getting the engine wired up to work. You will also want a tunable ECU at this level. The intake manifold will be a limiting factor at this level, but the stock exhaust manifold is usable with some cleanup work. The RB25DET can be pushed (with very careful tuning) to 500HP in stock trim, and can be reliable...the weak spot is the ceramic turbines. Upping the boost to get to 500HP tends to break them, so a turbo upgrade would be needed. It can be bolted into the car with minimal fabrication...since the car was designed to hold an RB20DE, the mounts, exhaust, pan, etc will all fit. (you'll need either the NLA 200ZR oil pan or a custom pan, though) The ECU and wiring harness generally will come with the engine, and the ECU can be tuned to handle this level of power. No cams, headwork, lower end rebuild, are really required to handle 500HP, nor is a hard-to-find and expensive transmission adaptor needed. The Z31 turbo trans will not hold 500HP. It's the same as the 280ZX turbo transmission. The Z31 nonturbo trans will not hold 500HP. The stock L 5 speed won't hold 500HP. You will need to go to the Z32 transmission, with a bellhousing adaptor, if you choose to go this route with the L31. The RB25 already comes mated to this transmission, so no adaptors needed. I guess you could get a heavily built custom T5 WC transmission and adapt it into the NWC Z31 turbo and 280ZX turbo cases, too. You are saying the L is more reliable than either of these engines...In stock form, sure, I can see that. But once you start pushing 400HP, the L28, as delivered from nissan, starts to get spendy, just like any other engine that has had the power output more than doubled from stock.

I wouldn't bore a P30 block above 85.5mm. There really isn't a lot of meat in there, any water jacket corrosion is just going to make it thinner. Honestly, I'd rock those pistons with a P90 head, 11:1 with pretty decent quench characteristics, but the piston dome does look like it'd shroud the spark plug somewhat. Hard to say without having them in hand. (plus, if you just have to run racegas, slap the P90 on with those pistons, and add boost. Triple TB's plus a plenum and some positive displacement...Yeee-Ha!

These pistons were designed to be run in an L28 block, with L28 crank, on L24 rods. If you have a shot of the pistons so we can see the dome shape from both the top of the piston and from the bottom side looking up under the wrist pin, we could figure what head they would fit. I would guess they were setup for an N42 cylinder head. I'm running the same compression height in my engine.

Doing a little research on this, it seems that the Maxima and the 240SX BOTH have a year split at 1994. It is fairly common to have an S13 SR20 swap go into an S14 USDM chassis. When the speed sensor is adapted over but the speedometer is not...the speedo reads twice as fast. Just like the S13 speed sensor and the 95+ maxima speedometer...I'd wager that the speed sensor for an S14 would work just fine with the 95+ maxima speedo. I have an S13 speedo sensor, but I'll see if I can aquire an S14 sensor and test it out. If it works, then this could be a very easy way to get both a stronger transmission, plus an accurate speedometer!

I get the same kinda feelin' sometimes, Tim. I'm also doing the maxima gauges, but will be using EL wire to do the backlighting.

Got the super mounted up yesterday, and everything clears so far. I will DEFINITELY have to figure out a fan, the exisiting setup just isn't going to work. I'd have to move the engine back two inches (doable, but a lot of trouble) or go to a different fan setup (also doable...but not ideal, really.) Intercooler piping will be interesting, the charge pipe will have to come off the super at a 45* angle, then into the intercooler at a 45* angle, then out of the intercooler at about a 15* angle into the manifold. Went to the parts yard today, so i'm broke as **** for a little while. Have to cover the current bills, get back on top of things, and get the silicone ordered for the charge piping, have to hunt down two more of the DSM 450cc/min blue top injectors, and order a stack of manifold gaskets...the fel-pro gaskets are just getting worse and worse.

I used aluminum, 6061-T6. It's in compression, and it's just a spacer. I don't have tapped holes in it. My companion flanges are welded and are 1/16" thicker than the stock companion flange, because I fabbed them up in my shop, so your numbers WILL be different. I used a driver's side axle shaft from a 1993 pathfinder.

A LOT of the sound you are looking for comes from the dimensions of the cylinder and the port, i.e., the sourch of the airflow sets the tone of the pipe. The muffler wil resonate certain tones based on the interior dimensions, not any particular baffle design or pipe diameter. For instance...a trumpet is 4.5 feet long. Unrap the tubing all the way out and it's 4.5 feet. A trombone is nine feet long. See where I'm going with this? Also, get a trombone player to blow you a crass note...the horn is being overblown, such that the bell resonates and rings...making a raspy, harsh tone. The main cause is airflow speed through the oriface in the mouthpiece.

It is actually a shredded wood-plastic composite. If it was cut from solid wood, it would be called Stablized Wood, wherin the wood is impregnated under vacuum with a liquid plastic, and is then cured. It can then be cut into shape, or as part of the curing process it can be formed into shape. The answer is yes, it's real wood...but more like epoxy-soaked chipboard, as far as a materials standpoint goes.

You may need a much longer spacer to get the axle geometry to fit. I ended up using a 1.340" thick spacer. It all depends on which pathfinder axle you get, and what companion flange you are using. Put your axles together, then measure what you need to get the axel travel correct.

Pine-sol. Strip the carbs down to nothing but the aluminum bodies, carefully catalog what goes where, and soak them overnight in pine-sol. Make sure they are fully submerged. They'll come out VERY clean. Learned it from a motorbike guy...they're always cleaning sidedraft carbs of some sort or the other.

You can change the lobe seperation angle on a regrind. Ron is cutting my stock turbo cam core from 110LSA to 113 right now. The issue is that you loose more base circle diameter and have to run larger lash pads. And no, you do NOT necessarily want a 107 LSA! The stock turbo cam is cut on a 110, and would suit well for a core. Call Ron at Isky, but call after 2PM pacific time. He has a few turbo grinds already; most have standard-for-him lobes, but are cut with different opening and closing points. It's not all about LSA, but more where the intake valve closes and the exhaust valve opens.

I am looking for a source to buy replacement diaphragms and seals for the 72-74.5 Z booster...I have four here, all with bad diaphragms, and can't find rebuild kits or even parts for them anywhere. Rebuilt units run about 100$, and take a week to get here. I have a new unit on order that will arrive next Wednesday; but I would really like to get these other units in working order again for spares. They aren't getting any easier to find. Anyone got a source? I know they're out there...Centric and Cardone still rebuild these units.

Yes, the one that is in the dash right over the glovebox door. I don't need the matching key, I can re-pin the lock here to match my key.

You have to look at the details. 140RWHP is pretty common on a clean, well-sorted stock engine. 280Zedx is running a stock L28, with a stock head and a stock (tiny) cam. And puts down 225HP. I don't have a stock engine in my Z, it's a 2.9L with a mildly ported head (35mm intake ports, heavily worked exhausts, moderate valve unshrouding, and profiled valve guide bosses) and a mild camshaft profile on a 107.5 LSA. Z-ya was running a lightly worked head (port matched, NOT ported, there is a difference of 40+ hours of work there in some cases) with a cam a little smaller than what I currently run in the N/A car. Also, the Camden blower might look bigger as far as displacement goes...but it's a two-lobe, that moves LESS air than the Eaton does, at every RPM in the table, AND has a much lower rev limit. It's limited to peak 13,000RPM, and at that speed moves a maximum of 750CFM. The M62 is rated to 14,000 continuous, 16,000 peak. At 13,000RPM, it's moving just over 800CFM. Also, eventually I'll be stepping up to the TVS1320, which will move 1,320CFM. That will be a year or better, though. The same cam I'm currently running, in what I would call a mildly prepped N/A race engine (similar spec with lower compression and slightly less displacement than what I run on the street every day), with a very similar intake manifold, produced 170RWHP. I have not put my car on the dyno yet, due to low-RPM tuning issues that I believe are related to the brake booster vacuum leak I currently am working on fixing. I will be dynoing the current engine BEFORE the supercharger is installed, to get a good baseline. The current head is a mild port job, and will be used until the new head is finished and installed. The first cam core has been sent off to Isky for the initial regrind, which will be a mild lobe profile with a wider lobe separation. A second cam will be sent out to Dave at Crower Cams to be cut to what he thinks will be a good profile, on a similar lobe separation. I have a five gallon bucket of rocker arms that are about to be sent out to delta camshaft to get reground later this week. (shipping is gonna be a ***** on that...)

Guess you haven't dynoed many stock 280zs, have you? Most factory engines in good condition *do* put down those numbers to the wheels. Also, comparatively few dyno sheets that you find here are engine dynos, almost all of them are chassis dynos. Also, the L28et at 180hp is SAE net, not gross (crank hp minus accessories). EDIT: Did some more looking around, it was Z-ya's Camden supercharger that I was thinking of. His setup was not intercooled, as the supercharger was mounted directly to the intake manifold. From October 23, 2006: I have a JCR SC (Camden) on my L28 race car, and so far I've got 255WHP out of it at 8psi. I'm running very conservative timing (20 deg at 8psi). Hear are the details: - F54 flat top block and pistons. - P79 head (round port 6:1 header) - 2mm Gasket (8:1 CR) - Comp Cams 280 dur, 460 lift cam - Intake and exhaust ports matched - Camden supercharger and JCR intake manifold - Megasquirt running Extra code v029 - Ford EDIS-6 ignition module - 36-1 crank wheel with VR sensor - Chrysler coil pack (uses GM HEI plug wire connectors) - Six 370cc/min Ford Thunderbird injectors - Stock ZX FPR The Camden unit used in the JCR kit is larger displacement, at 112 cubic inches, but is a two-lobe straight-rotor unit that is less efficient overall. Camden's website states that the unit will produce approximately 750CFM at the maximum recommended rotor speed.

Doing some math this morning, and the current drive ratios will land me with a theoretical 9.5lbs of boost. For reference: {[supercharger Displacement/(1/2 engine displacement)]*Drive Ratio*14.7} - 14.7 = Theoretical Boost In this case: {[1.032/1.4]*2.23*14.7} - 14.7 = 9.5lbs Taking into account intercooler drop, which we'll guess at 1-1.5lbs, that should net me 8-8.5lbs, if the super was perfect, and my engine was perfect. Engine is about 80% VE stock, ported head and cams can bring that up to 87-90% for a very well sorted street engine and 95%+ for a race engine. At my current drive ratio, the M62 will be spinning 15,164RPM at a crankshaft 6800RPM. I shouldn't need to go much higher than that, but I'm safe for peak excursions to 18KRPM. (for reference, at 7000RPM, my alternator will be spinning 21,000RPM...) Here's a rough attempt at picking numbers off the compressor map and generating a table: (no, it's not exact...but it's within a few CFM and the efficiencies are within a few tenths) 2000 engine RPM, 225 blower cfm, 65% efficient 3000 engine RPM, 335 blower cfm, 66% efficient 4000 engine RPM, 460 blower cfm, 65% efficient 5000 engine RPM, 625 blower cfm, 61% efficient 6000 engine RPM, 710 blower cfm, 57% efficient 7000 engine RPM, 812 blower cfm, 53% efficient 2.2CFM is about 1HP, so theoretically the airflow at 7000RPM would support about 370HP. At that blower speed, it will require 36HP right off the top, so cut that back down to 334HP, call it 330HP. This is the absolute maximum crankshaft horsepower possible with this blower in this configuration. 80% of this (pretty well generally accepted for a stock L28, stock cam, with a perfect tune) is 264HP. Factor in 15% for driveline loss, and 224HP would be at the rear wheels. So, a stock 140RWHP engine would be bumped up to 220ish HP with this setup, assuming a perfect tune and a stock cam. We're doing a lot of handwaving here, but most of the numbers are pretty generally accepted and can be worked backward to get pretty dang close to right. For instance, a canadian guy running the same blower at 6PSI, intercooled, on a bone-stock L28, with aftermarket engine management and a dyno tune, produces 255RWHP That's a bit more than I figured with the handwaving, which means I'm just being conservative here. (I am quoting the figures I can find from 280Zedx's build here)

It won't make much difference, if any. I wouldn't loose sleep over a new old stock cam or a good condition used cam.

That's a great price on that kind of work. Either he's really good, or he's got a plan, ya know how that is. Let us know how it turns out.

I'd love a couple shirts, short-sleeved.