Xnke

Pusher fans suck. They really aren't very effecient as far as getting the job done goes...they work, but not well. a proper puller fan, with a shroud, will do a much better job. That, combined with ducting the radiator infront of the core support, and ensuring that all the air coming in the front opening of the car MUST pass through the radiator, will do much more than trying to go to a less effective fan setup.

Nah, radiator and core support are staying put. I don't have time to do that kind of structural work on a car I drive every day. The radiator currently has two 12" fans on it, which draw a buttload of current, but I couldn't find a 14" fan that I could work the mounting out on. They were all too thick in the motor housing area.

The problem isn't blade diameter, it's depth off the radiator. I don't have nearly as much room between the radiator and the water pump in an S30 as you do in the ZX, Ernie. Anyway, here's the work from this evening: And the room I have to work with for an airbox:

Stainless and aluminum do not mix well when it comes to corrosion. Also, once that stainless sleeve is in there, it won't expand and contract at the same rate the aluminum head will...which will cause scrubbing between them. It will seep water.

I need the pushbutton latch for a 1972 glovebox. it's the chrome piece in the dash above the glove box. I have one somewhere, but who knows where it is now. Let me know what you have. No, a 1974-78 latch will not fit...not the same mechanism. Not sure if a 1973 will fit, but 1971-1972 should. Thanks!

Those early heads are a PITA to weld on; ESPECIALLY when they have been corroded by coolant. Contaminated tungsten and weld porosity are the rules of that particular game, and there is only one way to fix either problem...grind it back and try again. I'd suggest 4047 rod, instead of the more common 4043 alloy, specifically for the porosity issue. It can be a job-saver on castings or contaminated aluminium. The only repair I'd make there is to gouge the head out all the way into the water jackets, weld it back solid, then re-machine the head bolt hole and the water passage hole. Then surface the head. I would charge probably 300$ for that kind of repair work; and I'd STILL probably be cutting it close on margins. Yes, since buying my TIG welder I've done more aluminium cylinder head repair than anything else. If I am imagining your problem correctly, the two paths that could be taken to get down in the hole both really suck. One is to literally chop your way in, and weld your way back out. This takes a lot of time, argon, and rod. The other method would be to use a long-series cup, a gas diffuser, and work blind down in a hole. This is risky, even for very experienced welders, because each layer of weld needs to go in right..one bad weld in the stack and you're back to square one...gouge it out and start over. I currently have a cylinder head in my floor that is for a different engine, (actually cut two heads and welded them together to make a head for a bigger inline-six) with a very similar problem...the only solution I have there is to gouge the whole head-bolt boss off and then weld the head back solid, working back out from the inside. But if you do that, where ELSE has the water jacket breached the head? That's a particularly thin area, but it's no thinner than a few other areas on the head. No point in working a corroded up cylinder head if you don't have to, is the point I'm trying to make.

As soon as the belt is fitted, I'll send the ZX damper off to be rebuilt, and start working on the charge piping, and relocating the coil pack from the passenger's strut tower...it will have to be moved to clear the supercharger. The bracketry will receive some NVH additions, and then I'll start mounting the brackets to the car, making the final adjustments, and figuring out how to get my dual 12" electric fans to clear the belt. One of them looks like it'll be touching the belt, and that will simply not work. I think I can get by with a single 14" electric, or I can go back to the stock fan and hope I have room to clear both the radiator and the crank.

too tired to post a real update...will edit later. The 51" belt is too short...a 54 or 55" belt will be the correct size.

I do not need the entire transmission, nor do I want to pay to ship the whole transmission. All I need is the front case from any L-series F*W71B transmission, I am building a spare for my car. I know it's a large item, but it's not terribly heavy once removed from the transmission and would only need some newspaper packing in a cardboard box. I am not interested in other bellhousings, such as the housings from the T5 or the early "A" series transmissions. Just the front case from a four or five speed Z-car stocker.

Been working on the tensioner assembly tonight. Had to put a LOT of thought into this one! Waiting on welds to cool off before I start making the rest of the bracketry. EDIT: The photos finally got hosted! This is the hard way to make this panel...but it worked fine. One more panel like that and the intercooler is complete and ready to fit into the car. Started on the tensioner assembly. I took apart a stock A/C tensioner to see how it worked, then built a larger, stronger copy. The proper belt tension for a six rib belt is 180lbs working tension, and for a new belt, 210lbs for a few minutes of running, before retensioning to 180lbs. This means that the idler pulley needs to hold 210lbs PLUS 40HP of drive power from the crank! Here's the sliding post assembly: The sliding post assembly is cut from 1045 carbon steel, then quenched and tempered to approximately the same specification as a grade 8 fastener. Tensioner bracket bolted to the engine And all the pulleys in place: Hoping to have enough of the work done to get a tentative belt size (it's looking like a 51" belt will be the right length) this weekend.

Let's try to keep this thread focused on the right side engine bay mount, instead of cluttering it up with other mount locations or turbo/twincharging. I will be updating this thread with the progress, until it becomes difficult to follow. That said, I gave been in contact with several cam grinders, unfortunately only one has been very helpful. have tried several times to get in touch with Ron at Isky after the initial request for a supercharger specific recommendation, with no response as of yet. Dave at Crower Cams and I had a longish chat on the datsun valvetrain and cam development, trying to work out what lobe profiles we can fit on the stick and keep the wipe pattern in place. I will be sending in a cam core for him to measure and a few followers to work with, along with some photos and drawings of the valvetrain. I have an N42 head on the car now, with dished pistons installed. I will be prepping a P90 head for use at a later date, but that will come later this winter. More photos this evening, progress on the intercooler has been good.

Ernie, check out that link from Bernardd above...engine bay looks awful familiar...

Fixed the problem I had with the core support interfering with the intercooler, it's no longer an issue. The boxed in section was...well, boxed in, and the intercooler fits now. Here's the current state of things: Starting the passenger side now:

Yeah, do the math on piston speed in an L28...you'll find most of the recommended max pistons speeds for cast pistons fall into line about 7500RPM. Will good cast pistons take more? Probably. Will I risk it on my engine? Nah, 7200RPM gives me plenty of go for the street.

Yes, Bernardd, that is exactly the plan. I will be mounting the same supercharger in the same location as 280ZedX, although I can never find where he actually finished that build. I see photos of the car assembled, but never anything else. Did some more work on the intercooler tonight, working on the driver's side tank. Lost my nerves though, hands started shaking and I had to stop.

I have seen the moved guide heads; I have one here in the shop that I am working on turning into a canted valve head...I really am having a hard time getting the garage-port flow figures I want out of the exhaust port. (homemade flow bench...)

Started working on the intercooler yesterday; spent most of the day making an end tank for the high-pressure side. It doesn't fit...forgot about the little folded sheetmetal brace in the core support surrounding the hole I wanted to go through. The sheetmetal brace will be removed with extreme prejudice. Anyway, this is what you all want to see. I believe this core is from a Skyline GTS-T, it is a Calsonic core from some kind of Nissan at any rate. Core mounted in the car: You can see the offending brace in the upper corner, surrounding the hole that the A/C line is also passing through. I notched the core support right there to pass the A/C line through, and still allow me room to fit the cooler. Forgot to take photos of the layout, cutout, and random smashing to get the 14g sheet aluminium into this shape: Getting it welded onto the core: And once again, it's too dark to get photos of it in the car...it doesn't fit anyway, there will have to be modifications made.

It'll be on all the time, the clutched thing is just silly. You won't gain any fuel milage by having the clutch on the supercharger; the parasitic drag from driving the super at low engine speeds is less than the manifold restriction caused by the rotors, bypass valve, and intercooler combined. The only things you gain from the clutched unit are: 1) Requiring you to run a 8"+ crank pulley to get reasonable boost levels 2) Not being able to change the supercharger pulley to change boost 3) Having to pay for the expensive clutch (Mercedes C230 Kompressor models for the M62+clutch) 4) Not being able to turn the clutch on with any kind of load on it, or it WILL slip and burn up...No Mad Max full throttle + red button engagements. I don't see any gains to be had there... The engine is already built, fuel injected 9.7:1 compression, moderate cam, cylinder head cooling modifications, custom intake manifold, etc. I drive this car every day as it is.

Started work by obtaining the proper bolts to assemble the damper, wasn't too terrible. Had planned on lunch with a friend of mine; but that didn't happen, sat around in the shop for a bit staring at a Calsonic intercooler core I got from a member here a while back...It is nearly perfectly sized to fit the nose of an S30. Being as it originally had plastic tanks, but they had been removed prior to my obtaining it, I'll have to make tanks for it. Since I have to make tanks for it, and it needs to fit very closely to the car, I'll mount the core in its final position, and then start making the tanks to fit the car. Intercooler core sitting ontop of the mockup engine. (that's an L28, for scaling purposes...) These wide lower tabs actually are bolted to the horn mounts in the lower core support. The upper mounts are pretty specific; the A/C condenser core I am using has two 10mm bolts protruding from the upper mounting tabs, and the intercooler shares these 10mm bolts with the A/C condenser core. The intercooler will also be ducted from the back side of the intercooler to the condenser core, to the core support. This will help to cut down on air moving around the core, and forcing air to pass through both these heat exchangers.The rest of the firewall will be sealed up, and the top edge of the front airdam will be sealed to the lower core support as well. Also started on the tensioner and idler pulleys. You can see the position of the upper idler pulley in the above photo, mounted to the front of the cylinder head. It'll need a lot of bracing, and the tensioner pulley will be placed similarly, but lower and to the left of the idler. The pulleys I'm going to use: And a shot of the idler standoff: (cut from an old ZX front strut, actually...) That's all I got for tonight...got too dark to get pictures of the intercooler core mounted in the car.

So I have a very well stocked junkpile to work out of, and I've been thinking about forced induction for a while. I was getting bored with nothing to do in the shop, so I started pulling stuff out of the junk pile two weeks ago, and started fiddling. This is the result. Hmmmm....Yes, I think this will do just fine. Pulled from a junkyard and rebuilt, it's in very good condition. Let's get started, shall we? Argh...I really need to buy a bandsaw. Took from 5PM till 7:30PM to make that cut through 4.25" aluminum round stock. That'll eventually become the hub adaptor, by the way. Next up was the driving end of the belt. An aluminum "front main seal" was cut out to position the crank damper in the correct position...I don't have main caps or bearings for this spare block, so the spare crank isn't installed. Took a ton of measurments and concluded that the damper sits about right here, judging from how the pulleys all line up and the wear marks on the damper. Since I use crank-triggered ignition on the datto, I'll need to fit a trigger wheel and rework the ignition pickup, too. Trigger wheel is 7" diameter to clear the supercharger drive pulley. There, 36-1 wheel fabbed. A Power Steering Pulley, for a GM 262ci V6, was pressed into service. The hub was machined out, the dish was beaten out of the middle, and the new mounting surface trued up. Pilot hole was bored, and bolt circle layed out to match the ZX damper. Next, the hub adaptor. All this...just to find out I don't have any M6x1.00mm bolts 48mm in length. Bummer.

The statement of "it does not have to be perfect, the injectors are flexible" IS NOT true, if you are using O-ring fuel injectors. Less than 0.5mm runout or you'll have fuel leakages. For the hosebarb type, yeah, it'll work.

The head bolts that I have here are stamped "13.9" in the head, I presume these are Class 13.9 metric socket head cap screws?

Do a little reading here on who is making that kind of power, and what it took for them to get there. The stock computer is very, very limited...it can't control larger injectors, nor can it compensate for changes in fuel pressure. If you are going to be driving this on the street, you will probably be disappointed with the compromises needed to make the 300+ crank horsepower to put 270 to the wheels. I believe that Letitsnow on here is running a stock engine, albeit with megasquirt, bigger injectors, and an intercooler, to 270RWHP...but it took 17lbs of boost from the stock turbo to do it, and above 5500RPM or so the boost fell down to 10lbs due to the compressor just not being able to flow enough. He did make 300+ ft-lbs, which is an AWESOME feeling in a street Z.

No, I built myself a custom twin throttle body manifold based off the large-diameter SU carb manifolds grafted to an EFI flange. There is very little plenum volume with this setup, the runners are longer and have a pronounced taper from 50mm down to 38mm, and there is no "plenum" persay, behind the throttle plate. Very similar to an ITB style manifold, from a tuning standpoint. All in all, I think I'll leave both throttle plates as they are and run a blow-through style setup.

That's the best part about the supers used on the GM 3800...the bypass valve is integrated into the blower housing...I've already got that exact valve. (By the way Magnuson doesn't make any of the blower stuff...it's all OEM'd by Eaton. They just make the manifolds for the specific engines.) The M90 you have...what is it from? generic application or pulled from a factory production car? My Z is a '72, mostly.