Xnke

I need a 1972 driver's (left) door window glass. Mine exploded inside the door the other night when I shut the door with the window rolled down. This is the second time my driver's window has shattered...and I'm out of spare glass. First time was the window rolled down about an inch...this time it was all the way down. Please let me know if you have a window...the hurricane is coming and It's going to rain next week.

If it breaks before february...I swear there will be a red mustang in your future. Or maybe an RB swap. Ehhhhh, I dunno.

There is some stuff called block checker that you run in the coolant system...it'll turn blue if you've got a combustion chamber-to-water-jacket leak. Did you have the P90A head checked for cracks when you had it skim cut?

Change the fuel filter. Sounds like it's getting clogged up and any kind of flow greater than idle is not possible.

The pistons are often marked by Nissan when assembled...the different markings on top are when the bores were fitted with matching pistons. Most OEM's don't generally do this...the block is bored and the pistons are grabbed off the line and put in. Apparently, the Nissan way was to measure the bored block and fit pistons that fit best; differing tolerances were held to a minimum this way.

I've always been taught that new rotors always got fresh new pads, and anytime you change compounds on the pads to sand the rotors down with garnet paper, wash with brake cleaner, then bed in the new pad compound. Supposedly it's bad juju to mix pad compounds on the rotor; I dunno. Seems like lots of folks do it anyway. That said, I too have this issue, and my car also pulls to the right a little on braking. Got an alignment done and it went away for about four months, now it's back again. (the pull, not the vibe)

I don't recall any C-shaped brackets; there is the bracket that mounts between the engine block and the top of the mount, the mount, and the mount post, which is welded to the crossmember... The bottom of the engine mounts is a C-chaped metal piece with the stud coming through it, these will pull off when the mount itself is failed and needs replacement.

ITM pistons are available in +1, +1.5, and +2mm, I think. If you have a set of L24 rods to prep, then some of the truck pistons with a 35.5mm pin height are available in a dished piston as well.

Project Ended. Just picked up a P90 head casting, so this head will go back on the shelf for now. I have a few Z car N47's coming from a few other sources, so there will be some roundport conversion experimentation going on with one of those, we'll see what it takes to get it to flow good. The 4-cylinder guys have been able to get some very nice results out of the roundport heads, after removing the liners, provided that the port floor has a little sculpting done to it.

If the fel-pro gasket failed, you might cut into it and see if it's a Permatorque MLS or a standard...i've gotten both from them. The MLS is actually a thin steel shim with the viton-type rubber coating on both sides.

Sure, the problem is getting room to do so. That issue may be solved; though....depends on if this 4-banger car actually shows up or not.

Most of the HC based refrigerant replacements for R12 are a mix of propane and butane, and isobutane. They perform very, very well, but are highly flammable and thus are: Illegal Dangerous Really, what part of not safe isn't clearly stated in Dangerous? Imagine an evaporator leak and lighting up a smoke in the car. Wouldn't take much with the A/C blower mixing air and propane for you... Or an engine bay hose leaking, coupled with an exhaust leak in a thinwalled header or cracked manifold...won't happen if moving, but sit at a traffic light you have a fair chance, even with the radiator fan going. Or getting hit by another car and having the battery touch the hood for a moment and throw a nice spark right near your broken condenser core spewing liquid propane... HC refrigerants are dangerous in automotive systems.

what year driveshaft are you using? measure the pilot diameter, I may have what you need.

Poor lube doesn't generally break piston ring lands; unless you have junk bonded to the bore. 8000RPM on cast pistons in an L28 is just bad juju all the way around. Might check the wrist pin holes for wear and stretching, bet you find some marks there. Those kinds of speeds are pushing the tensile strength of 90% of the cast piston material out there pretty hard, even if they have the steel braces inside.

Bueler? Bueler?

The S130 chassis has considerably different aero characteristics than the S30. They will not just "graft in" without some study and actually work, unless you just get really lucky. I am considering taking the stock type 77-78 S30 hood vents, and moving them down on the hood so the leading edge of the "power bulge" lines up with the edges of the hood vents...such that you could draw a straight line across the fronts of them. The vents don't look great sitting there, but if they line up correctly and work then the less than stellar looks will be fine.

One of my upcoming projects hinges on setting a 6-rib flat belt up on the crank of an L-series engine, in addition to two v-belt grooves and a 36-1 VR trigger wheel. For this project, a 280ZX or 81-84 Maxima damper appears to be a good starting point. After obtaining a suitable unit, I realized that the "backplate" of the ZX damper is about 1/8" thick, and is about 7" diameter. This should lend itself well to forming the trigger wheel. Problem is that it's on the "damped" side of the assembly, isolated by the rubber ring. I can't see the front and back ends of the rubber ring on this pulley, nor on other Z L28 damper I have here in the shop. Does anyone have a dissasembled ZX damper that they can post photos of? Also, does anyone know about how much the damper ring will "wobble" at speed? The way I understand how these dampers work is to absorb torsional vibrations That would seem to imply that the outer ring of the damper "slips" +/-X degrees relative to the crankshaft, as opposed to the hub of the damper; which would remain hopefully fixed in position. This in turn, leads me to believe a crank trigger wheel machined into this backplate would also tend to "move" in relation to the crankshaft, when rotating at speed. How is it done on the 81ZX turbo, with the crank angle sensor? Is the trigger wheel fixed to the damped outside ring, or the inner hub? Other than the obvious "when the rubber separates and the ring slips your timing will be wrong" problem, how much timing slop could I expect?

Easy. It wasn't stuck when I put the head back on. It got stuck after I installed new valves, lapped them in, reinstalled the head, got the car running again, and drove it about a mile. As if the new valve stem seals sealed a little too good on that valve, and it seized in the guide. Unfortunately, it's half-open, and the car continued to run till I got off the main road and stopped. I am worried about the condition of the internals; and don't particularly care to find out this evening.

This issue WAS solved...car ran beautifully with a new cap and rotor (A second new cap and rotor, mind you!) And then it threw a lash pad at about 3500RPM, on a downshift. And THEN I realized why it threw the lashpad, when I removed the rocker arm with my fingers, WITHOUT adjusting the solid lash adjuster. Even though the valve stems were (I thought) adequately lubed up with Permatex Ultra-slick mixed 50/50 with engine oil, even though the new valve guide seals were on correctly, I have managed to stick the #6 valve about half-lift. I will assume that it's now bent. I am not at all pleased with myself. Head will get removed when I'm not sick of looking at it again, and we'll give it another shot.

ECU is MS1-extra; injectors are wired such that 1, 2, 3 and 4, 5, 6 are on separate injector drivers. Injection is Simultaneous, 2 squirts. Req. Fuel is 7.0; as calculated by Tunerstudio. Spark is a stock turbo coil; through a new cap and rotor, MSD 8.5mm cut-to-fit wires. I'll check spark again today; but I'm pretty sure I have spark. The injectors seem to be working; they all click appropriately, and best I can tell they are all squirting fuel. More testing to come. This car will run again; I will not be beaten by an L12.5ET.

New valves fitted, head pressure tested for cracks. Chambers cleaned and CC'ed, valve seats equalized, all valves lapped after cutting the seats to verify contact area and then vacuum leak tested. After the leak testing, new stock valve stem seals went on. (one of them was off, and seeping oil, as would be expected. No bent valves. All the valves measure out fine, but some of the valve seats, exhaust seats especially, were REALLY funky and pitted. Back on the car. New headgasket, Fel-Pro Permatorque MLS, New intake/exhaust manifold gasket, fel-pro cardboard-type. Filled the coolant and prelubed the cam, set cold valve lash and buttoned up the engine. Cold compression test readings: 112, 113, 112, 113, 113, 113 Start the car, run engine on three cylinders again. No change at all. Unplugged injectors for 2, 3, 4 and no change in idle. Let engine come up to temperature. Hot compression test readings: 120, 120, 120, 120, 120, 120 New spark plugs, NGK 6BP6EY11. Factory recommended plug, according to the plug charts. Standard copper core plugs. No change in engine. Runs on 1, 5, 6 only. Cyls 2, 3, 4 plugs clean white. 1, 6 dark, sooty. 5 white with black stripe down one side of the ceramic. Injectors are new, only been in the engine about 4000 miles. MDL450, 450cc/min, low-Z, "DSM Turbo" injectors. Widely used; these are the black-top version. (New new, not junkyard pulls.) Anything? Anything at all?

I have a Holset here that had about 75% the #5 piston of the Cummins 6BTAA it was attached to sent though the exhaust turbine, and STILL doesn't look as rough as those leading edges do. Rough!

Have you checked your timing with a light? If MS is controlling the timing, and your dizzy has slipped or turned a little, then MS is commanding the map timing plus the dizzy offset. Check your base timing with a timing light, make sure it's correct. SAVE YOUR CURRENT TUNE. Crank the engine with no throttle...if takes a while to start, then make sure your have the priming pulse set up. If it is turned on, (it's under cranking settings), the key on and let the fuel pump prime and the priming pulse click, then key off. Repeat. Try to start it...if this starts it up faster, then increase your cranking pulsewidth. If it acts worse, then try cranking with a smidge of throttle...if this helps, reduce cranking pulsewidth. If neither of the above help, go back to the tune you started with. Reduce timing advance from 15 to 12. If that is worse, then advance timing from 15 to 18. I wouldn't reccomend going higher than 18, unless you really have something against your starter...kickback can be rough on the bendix. (I say this, but my car runs best with 18 degrees base timing, and I have run as much as 24 degrees...)

Yeah, you need a better lawyer. Good to know you'd be getting the full payout...but if your bills total more than 25k you'll still get the raw end of the deal. Hope everything works out for you.

Check your coilpack. I just had the same issue...but it progressed into a dead cylinder. One half of the coil was dead, shorted to ground. It measured out correctly, tower to tower, and primary coils all checked out...but eventually went to no spark at all out of that particular half-coil. I'm using the same caravan coilpack, and replacing it fixed a lot of my spark issues.