Xnke

SO the Z is getting supercharged; initially with an Eaton M62, and eventually with either a TVS1320 or an Eaton M90, depending on funds and availability. Yes, I am going to use the M62 first. I have one in as-new condition, with the rotor timing revised and the blower case ported, and it is MUCH easier to fit up to the engine. The M90 is a little bulky for the passenger side of the engine bay; mounted above the alternator and along the valve cover. Some modifications will be needed...And I don't currently have one, even a poor condition one. So far the plan is to mount the super to the passenger side of the engine bay, above the alternator, similar in position to the power steering pump on power-steering equipped cars. This does make for problematic spark plug and valve lash maintenance; but those are not frequent and removing the super will be setup to be a rather simple job, if a little more annoying than just not having it there. Here's the dilemma: The super originally had the throttle plate on the inlet of the supercharger, and blew down through an intake manifold. I will be blowing through an air-to-air intercooler prior to entering the engine; so the setup will be much more similar to a centrifugal supercharger setup than a typical roots-style blower setup. I know that runner length is dependant on the position of the throttle in relation to the back of the intake valve, and I also know that positive displacement blowers have a reputation for bending throttle plates in blow through applications. If a large blowoff valve is used, would it be preferred to keep the twin 50mm throttle plates where they are now, about 7.5" from the manifold mounting flange, or is relocating to a single 70MM throttle body ahead of the supercharger the only way to go? (roots blowers loose efficiency REALLY fast as the inlet to the supercharger is restricted, so a larger than normal throttle plate is acceptable here.) This blower does have a vacuum/boost operated bypass valve installed already, integral to the housing. With the long intake path that would result from having the throttle plate ahead of the supercharger, I would expect silly levels of low-end torque, but having the intercooler in the way changes things, I'd think. Also, the total charge path would be 12"+32"+24"+18"or a total intake-valve-to-blower-outlet of 86 inches. Not sure how you'd figure the length from the throttle plate to the blower outlet; mean distance would be 13.5", but how do you figure in the rotor's disruption of the air? Bueller? Bueller?

Risicard, the ford Explorer Independant Rear 8.8 will fit an R200 mustache bar with little to no work. No need to make a steel cover.

Nah, Tony, no kickstarts for me. I wrapped the clutch cover with rope and two of us pull-started an l28et on a test stand. remember to turn loose the rope!

And wear good boots with the laces tucked in the tops. Those ring gear teeth have no mercy!

Realistically the point about the fueling curves is very likely cam related, more than anything. You can drive my car in 4th at 30MPH and it's fine...1800RPM. Due to the exhaust leak at the manifold flange though, you can definitely tell the engine is working harder...and the megasquirt display is showing much reduced intake vacuum and higher fueling for the same AFR's. Punch the throttle and it is slow to pick up RPM's, but it will pull itself along. Same 30MPH, 3rd gear, 2200RPM...higher vaccum, lesser fueling, same AFRs...engine is producing more torque and more RPM's...more than needed. So the amount of work being done is less than the amount of power available to use it. I am not sure on the werkin's of this mathematically; but I do know that driving in *my* car, with *my* cam, and *my* headwork, the car returns the best mileage at 2500-2900RPM. Tip it over to 3100 and mileage goes to **** and smilage goes waaayyy up. Drive the car under 2500RPM and it's generally happy down to about 1800...but fuel mileage suffers.

Just clean it up and make sure it's not damaged...you should not really feel a ridge on the nose of the cam...there will be a little wear there on a used cam but as long as it's smooth and there aren't big ears left on the unworn sections it should be OK.

Ok, your machinist is not well versed in this kind of valvetrain...those rockers absolutely DO mate to the cam lobes exactly the same way that the conventional lifters in his familiar V8's do. You can take the risk if you want...but see another thread here for the possible outcomes.

Best case? Nothing happens. it works fine. Worst case? You destroy the camshaft and fill your oil full of very hard metal powder that gets pumped though the engine, devouring the oil pump, clogging the filter, then openining the bypass valve and packing itself into your engine bearings and abrading your crankshaft. Most likely case? You drive it for a few hours of run time before noticing that the cam sounds kinda loud and you might should adjust the valve lash...then you pull the valve cover to find a cam missing a lobe or two and your oil looks kinda...shiny. Either way, unless you get lucky you'll be rebuilding the engine again, and it'll probably have much more damage than you started with in the first place. Send them to Delta Camshaft and have them resurfaced. It's 4 bucks each. Would you mix and match used lifters on a chevy or ford V8? No. Don't expect to be able to do it with a datsun rocker arm either...they have the same relationship with the cam that the V8 lifters do.

Need a front timing cover for the L24/26/28 engine. dirty is ok, corroded or broken is not. Lemme know what you got!

Just send them to get resurfaced. It's 4$ and a LOT of peace of mind. I surfaced mine myself, but I have a half-tooled machine shop to do it with. It's slow, tedious work to do it by hand.

She looks really excited there, 240zip. I do have to agree with you though, the second-gear pulls always make'em smile.

Even more, look at the FSM's fuel consumption curves. You'll get better milage, stock-for-stock, by cruising at 3000-3700RPM, than you will at 2500-2800RPM. Might also read around here on the "VE Valley" that stock engines map out with on megasquirt, even though we don't really know *why* it happens yet.

That is a nifty throttle body, ozconnection. Where'd ya nick that piece of kit? (and the hose-barb injectors...that TB would work with the Ford CFI injectors...no mods needed.

The cam I am running is advertised at .480" lift, 280* duration...but at 0.050" lift it's only 232* duration, and it's only .455" lift. It's fine for driving daily, but I feel like my horsepower:fuel milage parity is a little off. Wide powerband, but pretty much NO power under 1800RPM, pulls pretty good till the redline at 7200 though. Call it 3-7K.

Looping that heater line is a no-no, there is quite a lot of data on the site to support NOT doing that. Cap those lines off if you are not using them for heating the interior of the car. By looping that line, you are letting hot water bypass the radiator. That's a handy bit of advice there, Tony! Now when I fix my gauges I'll know what they really mean! Thanks to NewZed, I may have to get a new oil pressure sending unit and see if that fixes my temp gauge, too...my oil pressure gauge might as well be an idiot light, and the temp gauge doesn't read at all...but if I short the temp gauge sending unit line to ground it will read full-scale, same with the oil pressure.

the head is NOT finish machined, the plug holes need to be drilled and tapped, the cam bores need to be finish-honed, the valve guide bores need to be sized and guides fitted, the core plugs need to be fitted, the water jacket holes need to be faced, cleaned up and bolt holes drilled and tapped, there is a LOT left to do to make that a running head.

The 4L80E is right out. I'd have to get a conversion bellhousing, figure out a converter, absorb the extra expense of the transmission controller, ect. If I was going with an electronically controlled unit, it'd be an E4OD. Per dollar spent, there is no cheaper automatic box for the 289-302-351W or 240/300 six than a C4 or C6, and the E4OD is basically a C6 with a locking converter. The 4R100 gains an extra overdrive gear, but is getting into the extra-huge category. The C6 will handle enormous power in the factory configuration, and the big block versions (differences in number of pinion gears per planetary, SB had 3, and the BB got four, in general) can handle 1000HP if they are in good condition. One of our trucks at work was a 400M with a C6, in a 3/4 ton truck...we rebuilt it with a set of 4v 351C heads, aluminum intake with some spacer plates to make it fit, aftermarket pulling cam, and a holley...all stuff that the boss had laying around for a long time and we just finally put it all together. I've personally pulled a 16ft trailer with a wooden box built on it the full 16x8x4ft, full of sand, up and down through the appalachians with no issues other than tire grip. Prior to the C6 going in, it had a C4 built by a local shop to "hold 600ft-lbs and never have a hiccup!", that they had to replace twice due to it failing in similiar towing tortures. I'm not saying the truck made that much...it was geared wrong for anything but towing and we never dynoed it. But two built C4's died and the used C6 we put behind it for a stopgap is still running strong today...with all the flat-out heavy load abuse that truck gets, I am quite impressed with how well it's working out so far. I know I can kill anything with a shock load on the driveline, and best I can tell the hardest part to get right in this combination of car/engine/driveline is going to be the transmission. I'd really like to put in a manual, but going to the trouble to adapt a box to fit, make mounts to fit it in the car, get a driveshaft made, work out the clutch solution, I'm afraid I'll end up with 10K$ in a transmission and STILL break it regularly. A 100$ C6 core could be used to mock up, test drive, and check fitment with Even with full-power loading and a proper converter, a junkyard C6 should hold up to abusive torque levels for a few minutes. I figure a 900-1400$ budget could be enough to get it to the competition level, surely not more than about 2200$. So, back to topic...there are several tremec 6-speeds, the T56, T56 Magnum, TKO, TKOII, TKO500, TKO600, ect. I'm sure there is a bellhousing made to fit the 302...the T56 for sure. Even though the TKO600 is rated for the 600ft-lbs I hope to make, it's rated on a non-slick, no-launch basis, according to the person I spoke with at Tremec. The ratings and the warrenty are only for street-driven cars, and they will not warrenty breakage caused by "racing of any kind". That last bit has me shook on buying a new one from them.

I am in the planning and parts gathering phase for another project, but am having some trouble filling out the plans. Here's what is set so far: Ford 300 Inline Six, destroked to 240 cubic inches. Assume crankshaft is indestructable. (really, if I had a photo you'd believe it!) Custom aluminum cylinder head flows 290cfm intakes and 195cfm exhausts at 28" of water and .530 lift. (Garage Built) 225*/218* .530"/.525" hydraulic-flat camshaft, aggressive lobe profile. (Crower supplied) Holset HX52 turbocharger, at 14-18lbs of boost. Ford 8.8 rear, 31 spline axles, with LSD. Probably as delivered in '96 explorers, 3.73 gears. Possibly (only if I can find one reasonable) the Cobra 8.8 IRS if it looks like it can be fitted in a near-stock configuration. Vehicle weight should be not more than 3000lbs, with an empty tank and no driver. Target chassis is Ford Maverick or (ugh!) Mustang II...Or Ford Granada...(heee hee hee! kinda busting the weight there...) The car WILL be launched on slicks at least a few times. The whole point is to build a silly-fast-in-one-direction machine that can keep time with the big V-8's and still only have six cylinders, and to showcase the custom aluminum head. It would be highly desirable to have the ability to turn the boost down to 4-6lbs and street drive it with a little civility. The 300 six uses a 302 Windsor bellhousing, starter, and clutch assembly. I have NO IDEA what kinds of manual transmissions I could use with this. I would not at all be surprised to make 700ft-lbs of torque peak, although the target is 500ft-lbs for as wide an RPM band as I can manage. The engine will not be revved over 7500RPM...there simply won't be a need to do so. Mopar A-833? TKO600? TR6060? Z32 5SFR30A? IS there a manual transmission that can handle that kind of torque without falling to it's knees and begging for mercy? I am not against the automagic if I can't have a manual...but it will be a C6. Everybody trashes the C6, but witnessed them being used for terribly abusive service for years and they don't complain as long as the shift timing is set correctly.

I would be very interested in seeing the drawings, I am a fan of the old-style prints. We have some at the office from the 60's and early 70's, and they are what inspired me to take drafting and design in highschool and vocational school, till those programs were dropped in favor of computer aided design.

Peter, you said you welded a crack in a race crank...that doesn't seem like good practice to me. If I was going to be pushing an engine to the limits, the crank is the one place I'd cull hardest on. I know that proper procedure can yield a strong product, but knowing that there is a welded up crack in the crankshaft at 10,000RPM would just give me the heebie-jeebies, ya know? Are FJ cranks THAT hard to get? And by the way...that oil pan is just gorgeous after the plating. We'll have to hear this thing run when it's done!

There was a doubler plate installed there factory. They seem to rust there for some reason, probably because the second layer of steel hides it till it's too late. It's a fairly common rust spot, trim back to replace with clean steel.

Still looking for a 1972 driver's door window....74.5-76 windows WILL NOT FIT. 77-78 windows WILL NOT FIT. Let me know what you've got. Looking for a window without welding spatter or delaminations, thanks.

Yeah, I just recently had this issue. Nissan USA no longer shows that they have any of the P90 intake valves left...but they have plenty of exhaust valves. SI is out of stock, Nissan Motorsports says they're out of both intakes and exhausts, and I ended up going with Qualcast valves, out of Nashville TN...they had the intakes and stellite faced exhausts.

The metal flanges go out. Where did you get that gasket, I've been looking for one for a while.

Call PMC race engines...he's much more local and has done equal or better work...depends on who you talk with. He's on this forum as well as VicZcar and a few other aussie websites.