Xnke

Hey Tony, that sounds *fairly* close to how far I drive on a tank of fuel, what size tank are you running in that Z? I am planning a few 12+ hour trips this summer.

There is definitely a good place for a 110v MIG welder in an auto shop. There is very little that will do bodywork and thin sheetmetal so well as a little MIG welder! Not even an excellent TIG welder can do the job so efficiently. Uses more gas, uses more power, inputs far more heat into the weld zone, and is a lot slower. Also will warp your panels quite beautifully, due to the hotter, but more localized heat. MIG welding the same 20ga sheet steel properly will result in a clean, much lower distortion weld, with less power, less gas, and less overall heat input, AND will do the job faster. But when it comes time to work on the frame or bracketry, make sure you have a welder that can produce the penetration you need for the job at hand.

In that case, I'd call G-pop or another rebuilder. I've always worked with G-pop Shop in arkansas, and they have ALWAYS been helpful...alot of the time they are really too busy to talk on the phone but if you know what you need then call 'em up. If you don't, shoot them an email.

Call the shop you got the shaft from.

I think you should put the damn wheel guard back on that grinder. This was not a "cutoff wheel is the most dangerous" injury...that's a "operator of tool is the most dangerous" injury.

heh, solidworks is a multi-thousand-dollar-a-seat program. I wish it was free...however Solidedge has old versions available with no fee...just never ever open your project in a new version if you don't want to buy the new 19,000$ version.

Yeah, I didn't have the money when I built mine for multiple sets of bearings, but I did have a few blocks laying around and so picked the one that fit my crank and my bearings the best. Rods were a different story...got the bearings fitted in the rods, measured, fitted, measured, fitted...re-fitted the rods to the crank one at a time and finally got the rods to hang vertically while the crank turned. Was able to use two fingers on the small end of the rod to turn the crank, and all the rods on it, pretty easy...called that good enough and went on to fitting the pistons and rings. It is pretty amazing what being picky about things can get you.

There is a VG33DETT here in town in a full-bodied Z32, full interior, running in the low 9's on the track. Yeah, it's a nice smooth car...but it's a heavy sonofabitch too, so I'm SURE he's making some pretty acceptable power. He street drives the car all summer, too. I don't remember his "numbers" but I do know that he's running the early manifolds with two largish T3's, mostly because it was easier for him to pack it in there that way. That bay is a maze of 2.5 and 4" pipes, intercoolers, fuel lines, wiring, everything.

After working my own rebuild, with the crank only in the first block I tried It would not spin more than 1 full turn after I let go...with the second block, I got three full rotations out of a good spin on the damper...mind that this was the crank, in bearings, with the rear main seal on it. I chalked it up to a slightly warped block.

When you shut the hatch on your "finished" project and the new hatch strut tears the body mount off the body...

The wedges/sleds trick doesn't work well...at least I've never gotten it to work. You can move things around enough behind the dash to be able to pull the gauges from the back if you remove the steering wheel. It's still a terrible pain in the butt.

Ok, basically your tuner is a doof. If he can't tune the fuel map better than that, he's not trying. You should see 13 to 13.5 AFRs under full throttle, dipping to maybe 12 or so at peak torque. Above peak torque, you can dial back the fuel to 13.5-14 and see no issues, and actually can pick up some power. Cruise and part throttle should see 13.5-14.5 AFRs, with leaner cruise AFR's (I've run upto 15.5 with NO problems) for fuel economy in high vacuum/low load portions of the map. Timing curve, assuming you're running a stock VR dizzy and the factory timing curve (it is possible to recurve these, and it might have been done at some point!) is fixed, unless you have the distributor recurved. I've fiddled with doing it, but don't have the machines to do it correctly. The dyno shop doesn't need to mess with it until they get your fuel curve straight...and if they can't do that then it's time to find another shop.

Or just drill the head for the 4-bolt intake...it's not as though it's difficult to lay the gasket on the head, centerpunch, drill and tap four holes...

If your head measures out at about 44cc, then you should be able to run a little more base timing than 8*. If you are looking for a cam for that combo, think twice before taking Delta's 280/.480" (really .455") grind...I think I'm overcammed for my 9.75:1 compression at current, although from 3500RPM to the top of the tach it pulls great. When I get another core to send in, I am considering having them grind that lobe profile, but tighten the lobe centers up for a little less overlap. Also hoping that tighter lobe centers would help with the 950RPM idle, and that I have not much torque under 3000RPM. The step in the torque curve is most noticable in 2nd gear, pulls away smoothly, if a little sluggish, but at about 3000 the exhaust sound gets much fuller, resonates, then the car starts pulling pretty hard all the way to 7000RPM.

You are running cast pistons. You'll end up ripping the wrist pins out of the pistons before you start hitting valvetrain limits, given that you run a stronger spring...factory springs on factory cams start to get weak about 7500RPM, each time you get up to that speed they get a little worse, tend to start to float a little and won't rev as high the next time. Go with the Rebello "A" type springs and new stock inners, and you are good to 8000RPM with the right pistons. Cast pistons on the L28 crank are hitting firm-limit piston speeds at about 7100-7200RPM. Rev one to 7500+ for a pass down the back stretch and you might be driving into the pits sounding like ice cubes in a blender...

Hmmmm....I wonder if OSG produces the timing gear set for the stock-style valvetrain? That would be really bitchin' cool, in my opinion. And it doesn't look like a major modification to what they are using on the TC24B1Z setup.

Everything is freshly lubed, and the front guide is straight and true. It rolls down just fine, smooth as you could ask...just binds coming up because the window is tilted too far forward.

Ok, so reading through the manual I am finding that the window is adjusted via two sets of slotted holes, one set up front in the little slide-track the window rides in, and one set at the lower rear of the door that one of the regulator rollers rides in. The manual states that if the window is tipped forward in the frame, i.e. the glass is tilted to the front of the car, to lower the regulator-roller slide. I've got it bottomed out, and I STILL don't have the window tilted correctly. All the other rollers and slides are in the correct location, and if I help by tilting the window a little or holding upward on the glass as I roll the window up, it slides right into place. But allow it to roll up on it's own and it binds up in about two inches...until you pull up on the front edge of the glass. Do I simply need to slot the adjustment holes further down in the door?

That is not a stock downpipe, I don't think...my stocker didn't have the two donut-protrusions on the flange. Just a flat flange. Might be a part to a header, though.

R200 to R200, yes. R180 to R180, yes. R180 to R200....no. Different spline counts and shaft diameters.

Ok, this is getting a little silly. First off, you don't need 91 octane to run an L28 at 9.5:1, let alone stock compression. If you are pinging, then find out what timing and temperature you're running at, and adjust to compensate. Chances are you have some mismatched parts. Second, the only way you can *know* what you have, is to measure it. No one has mentioned head casting numbers. If the head was ported by the PO, and not by a shop...chances are good that you have a stock combustion chamber. Most people's idea of "port and polish" revolves around sanding out the casting flash and smoothing the surface to a mirror finish, ignoring the shape and consistency port-to-port. It is a minority of home porters who actually go through each step, because most do not have the patience to finish. It's a long job. What head casting number do you have? It's on the forward passenger side of the cylinder head, near the gasket surface. If you really have a 10:1 compression ratio motor, and you're worried about detonation resistance, then check to see if you are running a stock cam. If you are, get a bigger cam. It'll lower dynamic compression, and add some power. The higher compression ratio makes this a good option for a 230-240 degree cam, but I would not go larger than that without more info. What injectors are you running? What fuel rail pressure? What is your total ignition timing, spark plug heat range, are the plugs indexed correctly? Your hesitation at WOT could be a LOT of things...

And the gas-a-just are no longer available...but if you can find them then they are a good budget choice for a stocker.

There is a user here who did exactly what you describe. His megasquirt tune is actually in the archives here...along with a complete description of how he did it. He's from AZ and had a blue car with a dent in the door, but I can't actually remember his username off the top of my head.

The Mazda 626 condenser that I used JUST BARELY fits top to bottom, and that's after punching two 7/8" holes in the lower core support to hold the lower rubber mounts. The top of the condenser snaps into the upper core support lip, holding it just right. NOT for stock refit though...the lines come out in funny spots and I had to cut and braze them to where I wanted them to be.

The "BS" part about the IDF being in 8mm just points to it having been rebarreled with a regular 8mm mauser barrel...not that it isn't an IDF K98k. The IDF used .308 winchester, so anything that made it to them got rebarreled and rechambered. If the numbers all match, and it's stamped IDF, then that's a really rare find...AWESOME. So, my new toy isn't here yet...but it's a Zastava Model 85L bolt action, in 7.62x39!