Xnke

Cylinder #3 definitely fails the acetone-in-the-port test, as does cylinder #4...but cylinder #2 so far is sealed. Heck, even 1, 5, and 6 exhaust valves are seeping. I dunno guys, new valves will be fitted up this week and the head will be carefully pressure tested and the cam measured up. Once it goes back on the engine, before it ever gets started up, another compression check will be done. I swear if this thing doesn't run properly after this I'll buy the matches if he buys the kerosene... :fmad: We drove the car 55 miles, with not even a hiccup, before we did the cam swap. On the first startup after buttoning it all up, we were missing three cylinders...and nothing we could do brought them back.

I cut the bottom off an old oil pan and welded it onto the bottom of my tank, after removing the original tank drain plug, and drilling another hole near the back center of the new sump. I routed the new fuel pickup tube down into the sump, and the return line also returns directly to the sump. Might give you a few ideas.

Sapper, you don't seem to be getting the point. We aren't arguing about whether you can build the engine. Most of us are saying that you don't want 1000HP in an S30 chassis to be streetable. The R32 is a totally different machine. THERE IS VERY LITTLE CORRELATION! Having driven a 450HP S30 on the street for a few days, I'm glad my car only has 200. I'm not as fast...but it is far less irritating to drive home from work in. I wouldn't even get in a 800HP street-driven S30. Not even to sit in the driver's seat in the parking lot.

Is that a billet crank, or a welded/normalized/turned crank, or a reduced rod journal size, or what?

I started rebuilding an M62 supercharger, to be remote mounted above the stock alternator position. Plan to run 8lbs of boost and call it a day at 250RWHP.

I am looking for a 280ZX damper, with the six-bolt mounting for the accessory pulley on the front. Let me know what you have, and if you have a photo of it that'd be nice. I don't care if the damper ring has slipped, but obviously I'm not going to pay as much for an unusable damper.

What ECU are you running? I have a few sets of injectors here, depending on what ECU you have or are planning to use. What size injectors do you need?

Remove the driveline. Get the car up at least two feet, and VERY WELL SUPPORTED! The chassis will flex like a rubber brick if it's not supported well, and when you weld the new floors into place it'll stay that way. Two feet is a comfortable height for working on that section of the firewall on the passenger side. Remove the front fenders, and clean out your cowl area. Always try to work from the top down, with that 110 MIG, and USE GAS! Gasless MIG is not your friend for body panel work. Don't cheap out with CO2, either, go for C25 mix. It's a little higher cost, but will save you days of frustration from burning through panels or lacking penetration on layered sheet assemblies.

Guys, the toyota S12+8 caliper can use 1986 RX-7 Sport Suspension front brake pads IF you weld the retaining pin holes solid and re-drill them lower on the backing plate to properly center the pad material on the rotor, and remove the squealer tabs on the bottom of the pad. This opens up a LOT of track pad options. Unfortunately, this does require modifying the pads as delivered and some folks aren't equipped for that.

Going to have to put this on hold a few days, gentlemen. Just had a P90 dropped in my lap that needs to be gone through and cleaned up, so that'll consume a lot of my time for the next little bit.

Mn47 and n47 heads aren't the same...but that's a heckuva nice polish in that chamber!

Been scrubbing the head down this evening, and last night too. Layed a headgasket over it and there isn't much room in there to unshroud the small valves as it is...going to a larger valve looks like it would shroud the valve curtain area more. I'll talk to my machinist to see what he thinks. (He used to do port work, but got tired of the folks coming in with crap cores and wanting them to flow like aftermarket CNC port jobs) It'll be a long term project, this is not a top-of-the-list project.

Did you wedge the timing chain? If you didn't, then the crackhead is right...It can be done, but it's a real chore to align the crank, distributor, get the timing chain tensioner back in place, then get the cam timed correctly to the crank and then put the sprocket back on and get the chain on correctly.

I recently obtained a cylinder head core from the parts yard, an MN47 head, that I am going to piddle with. I don't *need* the head, and it is truely a core at this point, although all the valves seal up just fine. The rocker posts have been donated to another engine and I'd have to replace them with other posts (I have other posts, but the ones in this head were chosen for a few reasons), as well as remove a snapped off exhaust stud from the #1 exhaust stud position. This head is also very slightly out of true; I measured 0.004 thou of warp. Very, very little water jacket corrosion. Other than the slight warp, and the busted stud, the head appears to be a good canadate, there is very, very little core shift that I can find. I am planning to remove all the threaded in core plugs in the head, remove the valve guides, and strip the head completely to a bare, machined casting, and work through the preparation of a competition-grade cylinder head, best I can figure. I am not sure I want to yank the valve seats at this point in time, although they will be changed to fit larger valves, if it appears that larger valves will help with port flow. Since this head has the steel exhaust port liners, I do not think I will achieve proper competition grade performance, but finding an E30, Y70, or 05L head casting is only a continent away. (Honestly, I think the Y70 cylinder head is the best starting point for a head that wouldn't be allowed to be welded.) I am also seriously considering leaving the head alone, refitting the rocker posts, and trading it straight across for an N42 head to do the exact same process to.

I mean that cylinders 1, 5, and 6 read 120PSI even, and 2, 3, 4 read 60psi. The valves are definitely leaking; but they are not leaking like "Bent Valves" normally do. Much more like slightly burned valves would behave, which doesn't seem to account for the totally dead nature of the cylinders. Even 60PSI should be enough compression to fire off weak, but they don't. Leaking is coming from #2 intake, #3 intake, and #4 exhaust and intake. The headgasket seems to be sealed up fine...I mean you are to retorque the headbolts on many brands of gaskets, including OEM, by backing them off till they are at zero torque and then re-torquing them, only difference is those are done one-at-a-time. I think when we bent them was the removal of the rocker arms. I told him to be careful and note cylinder position, but I was not present when they were removed so I can't say if that was done or not. We decided it was better to just lift the cam all at once with the hydraulics, but not before we'd actually removed all the rockers normally. Yes, the MN47 head uses an interally oiled camshaft.

The three cylinders fail everything, including compression testing...but not by very much at all. Looks like time for new valves...

Looks like a valve issue; but I have absolutely no clue how we could have bent valves. The cam was removed and replaced vertically, so I guess we are just stuck with pulling the head to check.

So I pulled a solid-lifter, MN47 cylinder head, camshaft, rockers, lashpads, everything cylinder head/valve cover at the parts yard last weekend. Would have gladly bought the whole Maxima, but they won't sell the whole thing for anything reasonable...the only thing wrong with the entire car was that it had chucked the #2 rocker arm off. Found it, the lashpad, and the mousetrap spring in the head, along with a brand new spark plug, brand new injector, and new wires, cap, rotor, coil, distributor...the PO was chasing a miss that he could have found easy with a new valve cover gasket... Anyway, we used the Timesert 18153 method to convert a running, driving, boosted-to-14lbs-and-loving-it L28et to the solid lifters and the "K" stamp camshaft this weekend. Did NOT unbolt the cylinder head. Pulled the cam towers and those five headbolts to do the job. Removed and replaced all the lifters with the solid adjustment posts, set all the posts at the lowest position possible, and replaced the "K" cam back in the head, in the original P90a's cam towers. Made certain that before bolting the cam down, the cam was rotated into the correct position relative to the crankshaft, then bolted the cam towers back down, replaced and re-torqued the head bolts, and re-fitted the timing chain. All the rocker arms were kept with the respective cam lobes. All the lash pads were checked and the lash pattern verified once the lash was set at .010" intake, and .012" exhaust, cold specification. Everything appeared correct, so we buttoned it all back up and fired up the engine. Congratulations, guys, you just invented the Mexican Three-Cylinder 1.25L, Turbocharged, Fuel Injected, L12-and-a-half-ET. As far as we can tell, nothing out of the ordinary happened. All the valves open and close as they should, the engine has fire and fuel on every cylinder, yet you can pull the plug wires and injector clips for cylinders 2, 3 and 4, and there is absolutely no change in the running engine. The engine is running solely on cylinders 1, 5, and 6, and actually is surprisingly drivable...It'll still make 10lbs of boost! Sounds like hell, though. No, we didn't discover the three-cylinders-down thing before the 10lbs of boost bit. What the hell, guys? The K-stamp camshaft appears to have more lift, but similar duration, to the M-stamp turbo grind, the only difference being that the intake cam lobe is moved four degrees, bringing the lobe seperation angle to 106* instead of 110*. Valve lift is .390", duration best I can measure is 219* at 0.050". (exhaust valve has slightly less duration, 218*. This is within a tight margin for error...so could be the cam is 219/219...which is more likely) This engine should not have had piston-to-valve contact in any way, shape, or fashion, but that is what it's looking like to me. What do you all think?

I have mocked up a block with a crank in it, but it was only 88mm stroke. (half of a broken diesel crank, turned the journals to fit L24e small-journal rods.) Piston choices became very limited, unless you wanted to use the wet-sleeved diesel block.

I have the same problem with my car...and I have far less horsepower than you. If mine gets loose in a corner, and I don't catch it before it comes out more than 8-10 degrees, I won't be able to get it back on the straight and narrow. I've currently got an open diff, but I'd also like to know what can be done to keep the S30 chassis from quickly becoming unrecoverable in a slide.

Turns out the injector WAS dead, but it had an open coil. Replaced it and the misfire was still there, but now the car smells like raw fuel. The coil pack, which I had previously checked and was fine, turned out to be dead. Cylinder 4 was hitting fine, but cylinder 2 was not. New caravan coil pack and I've picked up thirty horsepower, feels like.

You have it engaged in multiple gears. Remove the shifter assembly, and pull the 5th/reverse shaft up even with the 1/2 and 3/4 shafts. Your transmission currently has fifth gear engaged. Rotate the input shaft and verify that it is NOT in any gear, that it is in neutral. Replace the shifter assembly and shift the transmission into fourth gear. Rotate the input shaft and verify that the output shaft turns and that you are in Fourth Gear. Do exactly the same for third gear. LEAVE THE TRANS IN THIRD GEAR. Put the bellhousing on the transmission, bolt it up, but don't install the front bearing cover plate yet. Check and make sure that the transmission will move in and out of all five forward speeds and reverse...You many not have the ability to turn the input shaft in some gears without putting a spare clutch disk on it for extra leverage.

Valves are not burned; I checked valve lash yesterday and also did a compression test...burned valves will flunk a compression test if they are bad enough to cause a dead cylinder. Looks like a dead injector.

Spent some time working on it this evening; Idle up to 1100RPM and pull an injector clip...each cylinder will drop the engine 300 RPM EXCEPT #2. Pulling the injector clip for #2 does nothing at all. Nada. Nothing. No RPM drop, no miss, no nothin!

That....is that what I think it is? Did you cut one V8 and one V6 two-barrel rochester throttle body, match them up, and stick them together??? That is dedication to a product!