Xnke

Header design should support 400+... Any headway on the header bits? I am fixing to cut another set of header flanges for a 3.4l GM V6 but it won't bump this down the list.

Will ATI make the damper with the larger pulley diameter, or is that huge underdrive ratio all they'll do?

Already planning on one...have to make the N/A header first!

The limiting value on the bend radius is 6"....as that's the material available right now. That and the steering shaft...

Check out the FAJS carburators if you are interested in the EMPI carbs...that's the chinese company who OEMs to EMPI. They do DCO, DCOE, IDF, IDA, and MCHH copies.

That's looking awesome. What color is that red? I need to paint the Maverick red and that's a nice color. I may need to place an order for some injector bosses...the stainless lines just look so cool....and I have a 12-injector fuel system that will need injector mounts later this year.

Manifold adapter looks like it'll be easy to work with. How's the water neck going? I see the big squareish hole in the head, but not exactly sure where the water neck will line up at.

Is that a GTR transmission? Looks like 4WD to me. Will PM as soon as I figure out if I can use it.

It may still be usable. How much do you want for it? (RedZed's transmission is scattered across my shop table)

Gets worse...Pulled the mainshaft gearset down...I found where all the brass came from. 2nd gear synchro cone/engagement teeth has a section broken out of it, that's what ate the synchro cones up. Also has a missing lock ball, 2nd gear was not locked onto the mainshaft. Sorry bud, we're gonna have to go trans hunting again. What are you doing tomarrow?

Got that mainshaft out today...centerplate is broken between the bearing bores. I have plans on how to fix it, but the gear WAS literally brazed onto the shaft. Found where all the brass came from...2nd gear synchro looks great on the outside but is completely missing on the inside.

260DET....Hate to break it to you but there's a VG30ET at my local strip that's ticking off times fast enough to make 505WHP...Has been for two years. It's a STOCK engine, just has an upgraded turbo, injectors, intercooler, and Nistune, and runs with an open downpipe. You can't escape the physical laws that dictate how much power it takes to push X amount of weight to X trap speed over the 1320. He's got to have at a minimum, 505 to make the trap speeds. You paid someone a lot of money to build you a dud, using all the best parts. It happens. To say "it can't be done, because I couldn't do it", well, that's childish.

Cam timing will be the biggest issue. As the cam retards, exhaust valve clearance gets looser, then quickly gets tighter again. The intake valve clearance, as the cam retards, will again get loser, then tighter. Advancing the cam can bring the Intake valve closer to striking the piston just as fast as retarding the cam brings the exhaust valve closer.

Considering the high-lobe cam is what this is set up to run, at 300+ degrees seat duration, more aggressive cams won't be needed for quite a bit. Granted the durations at 0.050" lift are not super-aggressive, it IS a long duration cam for a streeter. Will make much good noise.

What kind of headwork is Mazworx doing? Just guides/seats/valvejob?

The pricing is layed out early in this thread. The threads you see in the spark plug bosses are for the tubes...the plug threads themselves are down in the hole.

Looking fantastic! Looks like that flange will be pretty easy to work with too.

So what's the deal with a valve cover? Pretty simple to cast one, of course, but I am not sure I remember if they were going to be supplied or not with the head casting.

I agree, it would be far simpler to keep the tilt as is, and work the intake manifold to keep the carbs/ITBs level. There isn't exactly a *shortage* of room, but I can see where some would like to tilt the engine for longer intake runners.

Easy, use Z20/Z22/Z24 bell housing for roughly the same cant to the opposite side, or the KA24 bell housing to cant 20 degrees over to the exhaust side. I think Z-series block mounts will bolt right up, would have to modify the KA mounts, I think.

Hell, I just piped the super Z with a 3" stainless pipe, with two Magnaflow mufflers, and it's STILL brain-numbingly loud. Eventually I'll figure out why.

Yeah, Drifiting an early Z is dangerous and stupid. It is very hard to get enough steering angle, and the car is just not as repairable as the other "drift" cars that everyone seems to love. Really, why drift your difficult-to-repair, hard to get panels for, starting to appreciate in value classic automobile into a lightpost? To impress chicks in high school? There are better, cheaper, easier to fix cars out there to drift in. As "ugly" as some think they are, the old boxy Volvos are *very* good at it out of the box.

So, I have started a new business SPECIFICALLY to be able to purchase one of these...

I hope you guys realized that the stock NA injectors are electrically incompatable with the turbo injectors...the N/A ECU will not run the turbo injectors without a resistor block. Locking the dizzy will help, but ultimately you are going to be driving a time bomb until you can get your MS installed...it's about 600$ away since you've already got the wideband installed, just wait and do it right the first time. Is it worth the cost of a second rebuild, just to drive it for a few weeks??

Excellent. I have been hoping to see someone making some progress, I know I'm not here on my cylinder head projects. Will the plastic head have head-bolt holes and exhaust port bolt holes?