Xnke

With 9.7:1 compression, and 87 octane fuel, I ran a 0.460" lift, 280* seat duration, 232* duration at 0.050" lift cam for three years on the street. Cam is cut on a 107 lobe center, so overlap is about 66 Degrees. That's a LOT of overlap, but it ran good and made OK power. Fuel economy suffered, some, but I was able to get it up to 28MPG on the highway. It was easy on the valvetrain, revved nicely, and sounded tough at idle...but wasn't really a big powerhouse cam. Overlap does not allow higher compression...later intake closing allows higher compression. Intake closing point is the important bit.

They're probably fine. Just less work for the fluid to exert the force on one set of pistons that go through the caliper passage to exert force on both sets, given that there is no rotor between them to generate the minute force differential needed to force fluid through said passage. Replace your rubber lines and check for line blockages, would be my bet. Just went through this kind of thing on a 1983 ZX, the rubber lines were internally collapsed on the front brakes, could barely push fluid through them.

That is a crude turbo adaptor. You could open the hole up and re-pipe it to make it look more like a T-3 flange, if you wanted.

I tried to have them do rockers for me, but they never could get it together. I had a five-gallon bucket of them to have done, ended up having Delta Camshaft do them and I kept a few sets, sold the rest. Maybe these days they are ready to do the job?

You might try....Europe?

Not likely. I do not believe the ratios are the same, and the thickness of the gears changes significantly through the lifetime of the FXX71X series transmission. If you have time to pull the cases and have a count, you can count gear teeth...If they have the same number of teeth, then it is worth a shot. Normally, though, if you've damaged one gear out of a pair, then the other gear is also damaged.

I have L28 cranks here that are all forged with the P3040 mark, L24 cranks are marked E3101 up until July 1973. L26 cranks from Aug 1973 up are marked P3000. The Diesel crank is marked V0790, IIRC. Nissan part numbers for each are, as best I have found, as follows: L20A, unknown date: 12200-E3000 <--Need to verify this, anyone know for *certain* L24 to July 1973: 12200-E3101 L26 from Aug 1973: 12200-P3000 L28, unknown date: 12200-P3040 LD28, unknown date: 12201-V0790 If anyone can fill in the dates and verify crank numbers and variations, please, feel free.

Reach up under the SU's and make sure that the jet tube is not pulled down...that's the starting circuit. Your choke cables might be working properly, but if the jet tube is stuck then it won't return to normal when you take the choke off, and can make it run poorly or not at all, from being too rich. You might have the opposite problem, your fuel pump and fuel lines might be clogged up, which sounds more like the problem, but the starting circuits are easy to check. If you're still running the mechanical stock pump, and stock fuel rail (You should!) then check for clogs/stoppages.

Check your starting circuits, you may have a jet tube stuck in the down position

Looks like a very nice install...that wiring harness looks tops.

You probably have heard about the "Horrors Of Megasquirt" elsewhere on the internet...how it's so noise prone and junk and no tuner will touch it. It is entirely due to the quality of the installer and the level of care they are willing to take to install it. The ECU is NOT the most costly part of the job. The quality and completeness of the wiring harness is what will make or break an ECU install. It's NOT cheap to do it properly, and by using MS, you are NOT saving any money over buying a drop-in harness/ecu combo. Might look like that, might FEEL like that because the ECU is so inexpensive, but it is NOT the truth. If you want a quality install with no trouble and no tuning issues, do NOT expect a "cheap" job to work. You need to go into it willing to spend the cash it takes to do the job right or you will never stop chasing gremlins and you will never stop spending money until you do. Been there, done that, fixed it. And fixed plenty of others that people just gave up on.

Can you get the cam you have ground on a Nissan cam core? If you can, get one done on a Nissan cam and see if it fixes it. If it does, then the Estas core is is the problem...too close in hardness to the rocker arms.

I'm starting to suspect that your cam core is too close in hardness to your rocker arms. that's the only thing left that I can see causing this kind of galling.

You need to run the black from the sensor back to the MS sensor ground...not the mount. Are you running high impedance or low impedance injectors? Low-Z injectors introduce a LOT of noise into the system that can sometimes cause significant problems, especially on MS2.

This scenario happens every startup...engine has 20K on the clock. I believe the problem in my case is a worn pump...so I am replacing it before driving season.

I have this oiling issue with my engine. At 800RPM, the oil pump will not prime, hot or cold. If it's already primed, it will build pressure, but otherwise it will not. First thing that happens on fire-up in my car is a quick rev over 2000RPM...this immediately primes the pump and oils the engine...if this is not done, then no oil pressure builds. I have two new pumps ready to go on, and will be doing it this week. This is only a recent development though, so I am not sure if it is any relation at all. I've never lost a cam lobe in any of my engines, but I always use Isky's break-in lube and Delta Cams reground rockers, pour the last quart of oil over the cam instead of just through the filler hole, and upon firing the engine immediately take it to 2000RPM for the break-in...no waiting, not even a second if I can help it. Once at 2KRPM, I tune the 2K load point to get it stoich for run-in. I also run a full six-quarts of oil *in* the mid-sump pan, and I pre-fill the oil filter and get it on the block as fast as possible to minimize spillage. Nothing real special or fancy in my break-ins, just outlining them to see if you notice anything you do differently that might be a clue. This is pretty puzzling that you've lost three in a row even with pre-lubing your cams.

Uh, you aren't being cheap by purchasing TWO ECU solutions and wiring the car TWICE. Buy the product you need, the first time, and be done with it. Or, spend triple the money to do it twice. I can see which one is cheaper...

My L has a worn pump right now...takes 5-10 seconds from a cold startup to get oil pressure. I've got a new pump to go on this week.

As Miles said...Cash is a good thing to have. I've got 18,940 in mine to date...

The K-stamp cam is one of the smallest cams...for a street car where milage is the ultimate concern, or a mild turbo where again, milage is your goal...it's fantastic. At 16lbs of boost on the stock turbo, it made approx 225HP based on drag times and returned close to 30MPG highway. That head is not ported, from the photos you showed, and the rest of the visible engine parts appear totally stock. All in all, you've got plenty of parts to build a running engine, a little attention to details and you'll have a good runner.

Well....You *can*.... I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who can't figure out the requisite tooling needed though. (I built a jig that the bell housing bolts to, with a piloted cutter driven by an electric hand drill, to re-machine the cases)

Well, let's look at what it takes. 7000RPM engine speed...multiplied by the 0.745 5th gear that is available for the OD...9,383RPM driveshaft speed. Isn't the OD in the T5 something like 0.68? if so...that's 10,294RPM. Now...how often are you at 7KRPM in Fifth....BUT it is doable.

If you only cut the bottom face of the head, take it back, pull the cam towers and the cam tower dowels and the rocker arm adjusters, and have them skim the top flat. Then, measure the total amount removed, order some Silver Seal head saver shims and re-assemble. No big deal. Every 0.040" retards the cam about a degree, if my off-the-top-of-my-head math is correct.

The tires in the ad seem to be pretty good for dry/wet performance, it's what my datto will be wearing this summer. Has anyone else run them on a Z and could report on them?

Usually only takes a few strokes up and down...five or six. Are you re-using pistons? Mic your pistons and then your bores....make sure they are still in spec. If you used a flex-hone, they cut fast and you could be oversize if you ran the hone for a full minute...