Xnke

You can see metal, yes, but if we cut that block down another inch you'll see an open gap. That open gap is what we're talking about, the N42 block does not have it. The webs are solid all the way down on the N42, and the F-54 block is only solid at the top and bottom of the bores.

Biggest issue I see is my header work. That #6 runner needs a big radius mandrel bend that I just couldn't get without ordering 10 of them, so it has the "patch" on it. Derek, that header will fit the L28, KA24, and Z24 bellhousings, so if you find that you need to rotate the engine to a more upright position it'll still clear. It will push the exhaust down under the car with the KA24 bellhousing though. Can't wait to hear it run!

That kit ONLY works with the CD009 transmission, it will absolutely NOT fit any other transmission. The 240SX 5-speed you mention is a completely different unit.

The T5 won't live. At 300ft-lbs of input torque they start breaking quickly, and be honest-you aren't going to baby it around. Not all the time, anyway. The FS5W71C transmission will live at 300ft-lbs input torque for a while, but it will wear out quickly. The FS5W71E transmission has some upgrades and can be strengthened further from stock, but again, limited life at the power you're talking about. When upgraded internally with stronger, bigger bearings (a lot of complicated machining required and I'll never do it again) I hope to get decent life out of mine. The FS5R30A is the go-to here for strong transmissions. It's a lot of work and they're a bitch to rebuild, but once assembled properly and fitted to the car, it will last a long time under severe service.

The Z20E timing gear is the same size and diameter as the KA parts...Only difference is that I'm remembering wrong and it's not the Z20E timing gear parts you need, Sorry. I'm dumb....will have to get my book out and find the part I'm thinking of.

250HP is doable on a bone stock car... No need to change any parts, not even the EFI. However, since everyone starts at 250HP goal and really what they mean is 1000HP will never be enough... Assuming the engine has less than a billion miles and doesn't make noise and makes good oil pressure when checked with a quality gauge, (10psi at idle and 10PSI for every 1000RPM is ideal) I would do NOTHING and not even open the engine. Fit your injectors and fuel rail, get your choice EMS running on the stock turbo and get it on a dyno and tune it. Then look into a bigger turbo if you haven't blown it up yet. If you have, big deal, slap another stocker in there and go. Tune it until you've either blown it up, Or you've realized that you're up against the 5500RPM "uphill battle" that appears with a completely stock turbo engine. If you have reached 350HP by this time, it's time to crack it open and change a few parts. The "uphill battle" isn't a wall, it's just a spot where you really start to notice that the engine "wants" you to shift up. I believe it's caused by the airspeed in the ports and manifold getting too high, NOT that the ports/manifold won't flow enough air. Once opened up some, or the factory manifold replaced, this "uphill battle" will move up in the RPM band and once over 7000RPM you'll never notice it in a street car. Then, in order of value-for-money: Resize the rods after you've fitted some aftermarket rod bolts. The stockers are good rods, but the rod bolts are the soft spot. This is cheap and worthwhile. Port the manifolds. The exhaust manifold may need some welding to get it done, but welding on it is a great way to un-banana it too if you do the welding carefully. The exhaust manifolds like to bend up at the ends, causing the ports and especially the bolt holes to be out of alignment. Straighten the manifold first. The intake manifold has small-diameter runners, and they can stand to be bigger-even 2-4mm is enough. Work the intake as far up into the runners as you can get, but don't punch it full of holes. Don't go nuts on a stock intake, they won't take a LOT of porting. Have the head ported and a moderate cam fitted. The stock turbo cam is not very aggressive but it is a perfect core for regrinding. The Delta Camshaft "280/.460" grind is great on a turbo on a 109-110 LSA (stock LSA for the turbo cam) and is about as big as I would want to go on a street-only car. The cylinder head porting does not need to be extreme! Forged pistons are a good move at this power level and higher...The stock casties will survive to 450ish crank horsepower under a perfect tune, for at least a short while...Some have better luck, some have worse. But around 350 horsepower on a chassis dyno it's seriously time to consider them. Stock headgasket! NO MLS. You run the MLS gasket, you choose to replace 800$ worth of pistons when you make a tuning mistake. It only takes 22 minutes to swap a headgasket on a ZX turbo, for two guys working at a slightly-quicker-than-normal pace. (Me and RedZedTurbo have done it in this amount of time, I have done it with a pre-setup work environment in less time) Reassemble and get it back on the dyno to tune, and be happy with more power than you can effectively use on the street. It's a blast.

They are offset exactly the wrong direction there lurch---woulda been great if the core was the other way round, wouldn't it! Coulda had a killer thrust side thickness to bore into, and moving the bore that direction helps with valve shrouding too.

Z20E timing chain parts....some Z20's are double row big gear and single row on the front and will work with the lower gear from an L-series.

Do the math yourself, and you'll see what the answer is. Sorry if you don't bellive it, but it is what it is.

It's unlikely that your 810 has compression that low. In fact, if it came equipped with a flat-topped piston and the maxima N47, it could not have had compression that low. If it came with the E88 head, then it would have the 8.6:1 compression ratio that you find listed.

Is it marked GM-4, GM-5, GM-8? or is it an aftermarket replacement? Without having a compressor map, it's hard to say if it would work or not. Given that it's for the GM6.5 diesel, it'll probably be a fine fit, but without having a map, we can't say.

eeeeeehhhh...They should turn pretty easy by hand with no spring load. How much clearance on the bearing surfaces?

Talk to Six_Shooter here. He's installed the slightly older LX9 engine into his 240Z, although he used the Nissan FS5R30A transmission to do so.

If the cylinder head you have has the small, heart-shaped chamber and is marked N47, it's a 38cc chamber. Combined with the L24 displacement and the approximately 4cc dish, I get 9.4:1 compression ratio-which is just fine. Gives a lot more flexibility, and is perfectly drivable.

Clay the top of a piston, pack the top with modeling clay when it's at top dead center, and take a thin wire to cut the top of the clay off flush with the top of the piston. Roll the clay out of the hole and wad it up into a ball, drop it into a graduated cylinder with milliliter markings that has 10-50 ml of water already in it. Read the marking and the increase in volume will tell you the dish volume of the piston. Do the same with your cylinder head, and you can compute compression ratio, but from what I see in your photos, if the engine code stamped on the engine says L24XXXXXXXX then you will have the 9.4:1 compression ratio. It's a good place to be for a street engine with a stock cam or a mild to moderate cam! If it says L26XXXXXX or L20XXXXXX then you'll have a very high compression engine (too high for street duty) or a lower compression, turbo ready engine. The only difference from engines built on other blocks and engines built on W24 blocks is the rod bearing diameter. That only matters if you're changing the crankshaft or rotating assembly.

If the car was rear-ended as bad as you say, I personally would remove that transmission and either junk it or have it gone through. Serious compressive forces may have been exerted on the tailshaft assembly and this can cause significant internal damage. Been there, done that too many times with used engines. On the other hand, you got to see the damage so you would be able to determine if the risk was enough for you or not.

No one here can really answer the question without knowing the displacement of the W24 blocked engine, (you can get this from the stamped pad near cylinder 5 on the oil filter side of the engine, up near the headgasket face) And knowing the dish volume of the piston. The maxima N47 casting is a 38-39cc casting if it has never been machined to repair damage. Assuming an L24 engine, with flat-top pistons the compression ration is 10.2:1 when using a Fel-Pro brand headgasket. Assuming an L24 engine with a 4CC dished piston (I've seen them a few times) then compression will result at 9.4:1. again with the Fel-Pro headgasket. If the volume of the dish is different, then the compression ratio will be different. So far though, either piston will yield a nice base for a hot street engine.

The drain for the engine block water jacket is right above where that coolant mark is.

There are three different thicknesses of Nissan-style retainer in order to hold different thicknesses of lash pads. I can't think of a single V-8 with L-series style lash pads, all the V-8 style lash *caps* I've used have been pressed on or into the end of the valve stem, not simply setting in a hole.

Put the chain on the sprocket how you had it marked. Then rotate the cam until the dowel pin lines up in the hole marked #1. It's that simple. That's it. Nothing to it. Once you have the cam gear bolted up, THEN you can use the timing chain stretch indication marks (That's what the dash and the V are for) to verify that your timing chain is in the correct position, and that your timing is not retarded due to timing chain stretch. Only rotate the engine CLOCKWISE from the front of the crankshaft in order to check this.

Header tubes are welded to the head flange now, and the collector pieces are cut out. I should be shipping about the same time Crane does.

The problem is erosion of the fire ring, not so much that it's in the way. Once the metal ring burns out then the gasket burns quickly...so that's why you don't want it exposed. I'd love to know where to get an 89mm fire ring gasket, all I have in the shop are 88's.

All the inexpensive/over-the-counter headgaskets that I have found have an 88MM fire ring for the L28. I'd love to find a composite, OE style gasket with larger bores! If you do find one, please post back where you get it and what brand it is. If the photo you show is the only spot you missed on, AND the headgasket is aligned using the dowel pins for the head, I'd not worry about it and run it. If it's a MAJOR overage that we can't see in the photo then I'd think otherwise, but that looks like maybe a 0.010" overage? If so or less over a very small area, run it.

That assumes your N47 is from a Z car and not a Maxima, and also that your head has never been shaved/modified. If you don't measure, you will not know. What year camaro? Iron heads? 1970's aluminum heads? Stock cam? Long duration cam? Late intake valve closing? Modern ECU with integrated knock sensors and timing control? I'd have no doubt that such could run 11.8:1 and not destroy itself on pump fuel. The L28 OE design and control systems won't support compression ratios that high on fuel octane that low without causing damage. And unless you live at elevation, it's very unlikely you'll be able to run pump fuel of any kind at 11:1 compression or higher...10.5:1 is REALLY pushing it on an L-series and non-ethanol 93 octane gasoline. Ethanol-diluted, 93 octane behaves differently, even though it shows the same detonation resistance when it's dry and fresh. I'm not convinced that it is better or worse, yet. We have LOTS of threads detailing cylinder head preparation, from several different members and several different styles of building.

Hope you plan to run racing fuel. You will need a buret, some simple measuring tools, and some simple geometric formulas, it's high school math.