TomoHawk

Mark- Mike C sed,"lowering springs all the way around and new struts." I thought he meant new struts, not strut cartridges. I was going to get new springs eventually. Tires, too.

I would like to replace the original fuel filter on my 280Z. Can I just get one for (any V8 or larger even) or should I get the OEM replacement? What things should you look for in a fuel filter- pressure, volume?

You're kidding, right? Frt. struts are $400 and Rear struts are $600. That's $2000 as you are suggesting.

My car is totally original stock everything. The Hurst shifter has both sets of PRND21 on both sides. I was asking if there is a shifter that works like a 4-speed, only for an automatic trans.

I'm fairly sure that the whole thing came from the Tempe, AZ (factory.) All the work looked exactly the same. I'm just now wondering why theyt didn't glue in a numbered plate or anything (free advertising.) I think I might be missing a few pieces though: inner fenderwells, frt. rocker panel covers. Didn't get any lights or chrome, light covers etc. Probably due to inflation getting in the way of the final costs.

oops

The old stock one is cracked and looks real bad, so I took it off and push the button down with my thumb to shift. I want something nice and classy. Maybe a shifter handle from another car will fit? Any ideas? I would prefer a new shifter with an H-shaped gate on it...

Will you quit that already! Winter is coming, so put away your car and work on winter stuff for a while. I'm not in a hurry to figure out the door handles, but I might get to it for an hour on Saturday. New steering wheel looks nice. It's a Grant classic #201. Horn works too.

The guy at the alignment place told me the fron of my car is a little "high." Considering that it has stock, 25 year-old springs, etc., should I lower the front or raise the back? Or should the car be level front-to-back? What would be the best way?

RThe radiator guy in my area told me to fill the tank and run it all down, the fuel filter should catch the rust.

I should go see if there's a number plate on the front clip? Did you guys get something like that of your body?

Same to you, Bud! I sleep fine at night, thank you. I'm not really worrying about the door handles either. I would like to put them on because it would clean up the door and eliminate some expensive rubber weatherstripping. Looks better too. Right now, after I put on my (New Steering Wheel!) on, I'm going to put this thing away for winter, so I'm about done with stuff for the year. Maybe one or two more small things, like fuel hoses. Otherwise the car is driveable & safe, finally.

I found the invoice to my Blue Ray GTO body and I noticed there wasn't an "Invoice No." ob it. The top of the fax says "Cable Cars Ltd." etc. (Tempe, AZ.) I was thinking of contacting those guys if possible to get the Invoice # to complete my copy for titling/VIN purposes, but I don't know if there is a way to contact them, or if the records even exist. Is there a way to contact Cable Cars Ltd., or whoever has the records?

What is the largest size tire you can use and still have accurate reading on the stock speedometer?

There should be a light above the switch that says, "DEFROSTER." It should light up when the defroster is on. Mine is blue.

GoJo should clean the gunk off nicely. You just slob it on & wipe off with a rag or paper towel.

A phone call to the dealer tells me it's a '93 RX-7. the boneyard guy told me that a '94 or even '95 might be the same, but wasn't sure. I think I will do some 'Net searching for a JY specializing in Mazda parts. What about the Subaru? Somebody said it was a close fit, but what is the final word on the Subaru (Forrester) rack?

I thought you meant he totally disabled the doorlocks, which isn't a good thing. You need to lock the doors from the inside for safety while driving. The MG locks allow you to 'lock' the door from the outside by disabling the latch mechanism, which is just as good, or even better than the stock locks. the secret of the MG locks is like the stock lock on the Zcar hatch- you put the key in, turn it one way& push to open, other way to lock. Here's a link to some pictures I took of the MG lock. http://www.angelfire.com/pe2/modeltom/Doorhandles.htm

That's the BEST place so far. Somebody put it in the Links page.

The one on the left looked smaller, like a go-cart, So what is the chassis for that one? It's not a pedal-car, IS IT!??

Everything rubber under the hood is grimy, greasy, etc., & dry to the point things rupture occasionally. Short of replacing the hoses for fuel, brakes, water, what can you do to clean & restore them until you can replace everything? I was going to wipe with a kerosene-soaked rag & then some Armour-All. It'll make work much cleaner & simpler next spring.

I think that link to carclassic.com is only a place where you can list your car for sale. I don't think they actually BUILD the cars. I DO know that there is(or was) a place in Chicago that would build you real copy of the car for about $250,000.

Yeah, I'll give him credit for going overboard, but it would be better if he did all the customizing himself. He sounds like he's bragging about all the extra stuff & I bet it would be WAY less valuable to regular drivers without the gimmicks. There was no mention of him being able to prove the cars's appraisal with paperwork; maybe his just mentioning it would mean enough to most laypeople. I wouldn't buy a classic musclecar without the paperwork to proveit's (real.) And, I've never seen a real GTO, but I've seen some real 250s and I've studied many books & photos of real GTOs. enough to know how I would builds mine to look like a GTO made from a Datsun. You need to decide which side you want & then do it right. Thanks for the link to the carclassic web site. About the mirrors- I thought they left off the driver's side mirror because you just look over your shoulder or in the rearview. Most pictures I've seen don't have a driver's side mirror. Driver's preference I figure, but required for American cars.

I sent some comments to that guy,I hope it was one of the Hybridz crowd: Sir, I think you went too far with the 250 GTO you had for sale in Kitcars.com. I can't believe you actually claim to have fooled the 'pros' with this one. Those guys mightrestore Ferraris, but they obviously don't know anything about a GTO: There's no door for the radiator cap in the hood. I'll bet there aren't any covers for the nose vents. Missing perspex vent in the back window. I bet those are power windows. Real GTOs had 2-piece SLINDING window panes. Blue seats? I think not. They only have blue center panels. Paint is WAY too shiny. You got mirrors on both doors. raised box for shifter is missing. Polished shift gate too. that's not a 'red head' engine. Since when did Ferrari use chrome valve covers or air cleaners? You could have at leave colored the valve covers & ointake manifold the right color. Could be more realistis with a crack or two in the nose. Having build a bunch of trophy-winning streetrods myself, I know the value of not making an "old" car look like it just popped off some assembly line & then a custom paint shop. It's a nice effort at making something you can sell to a guy with way too much money & ego, but I'd prefer a nice model A built by my 12-year-old nephews to what you got. Have a nice auction, I forgot to suggest he take it to the local annual AutoRama and enter it in the 'overblown' category. He obviously spent a LOT of time & money, but if he really wanted to make one that's (real) he should have contracted with one of those few companies that would make one with a tube frame, hand-made sheet-metal, maybe even a Ferrari V-8 or V-12.I'm making mine with driveability in mind; for cuising with some style. I evewn think that to make it look the most realistic, you DON'T need to spend $50,000 . If there's a reply, i'll post it too, OK?

Those are header pipes. they used them to get the HOT air onto the windscreen to defrost it in a hurry. "Enzo don't fool around!"