speeder

http://www.mojoperf.com/?q=node/4 Coil on plug mounting of the LQ9 truck coils and Plug and play harnesses for Series 1 and Series 2 RB25/26.

I would love to see your sources for info on this 1100whp L motor!

Back in the day, with a mildly ported head, I picked up around 25whp with the use of a Thagard intake and retuning to correct the leaner AFRs, with no other changes. This was at the 380--390 whp/20Psi level. I could be wrong, but it looked to me that the stock manifold was beginning to limit flow. If 600+ hp numbers were achieved with the stocker I'm sure we're talking extreme porting to make more than 190 cfm. Looking at the Electramotive 280Zx Turbo GTO car, at 580 SAE net hp, That intake mani is definitely not stock.

Good move getting rid of that antique 4-barrel. That manifold will work pretty well if you can stage the injectors with your EMS - Good low speed running on the primary injectors only, increased fuel delivery on both sets. 2 possible limitations: 1. The stock intake runners have pretty small inner diameters - probably good to 350-400 whp but will limit airflow at the top end. 2. Your injector choices are somewhat limited by the hose barb rails and flange mounting arrangement. A conversion to the o-ringed variety will enable a better choice of affordable injectors.

The 7M cam sensor unit works well with the MS3. I set up one on a 2JZ with a 7M CAS installed. Yes, it fits. Use the 24 tooth wheel and reluctor for the CAS, Set up for 12 teeth/crank revolution. There are two cam sensors included, 180 degrees out from each other. One pulses ~90 degrees before #1 TDC, the other is ~ 450 degrees. Removing a tooth from the CAS wheel is definitely not recommended nor required.

"Picking at it" describes recent progress - got some stainless tubing for plumbing the wastegates (twin Tial 44s that need to be inboard from the Buick GN position on the headers) After this is done I'll begin surgery to redo the core support for turbo clearance (Scottie-GNZ is on standby to assist). Also have been working to fit the dry sump pump. These clearance issues require 90% head scratching, then 10% work. When all the hammering, cutting, and welding is done I'll pull the engine and trans, then smooth the carnage in the engine bay. At that point I'll probably make better progress. I'd love to get to the vid stage....

Got a big package yesterday - GForce Magnum T56, all 150 pounds of 1200hp, 1000ft-lbtq goodness. I ordered this thing before Christmas. This one has a more reasonable .73 sixth gear, unlike the LSx versions with the impossibly long ratios. Now I need to get to work. I have the 3.69 R230, need to build a front mount so I can swap out the 2.93 diff.

PLEASE do not get the Always Electrical Malfunction. I've had two of these and they both failed within a short period of time. I fought for a refund instead of a second replacement because I didn't want that POS on my car. FJO makes a good product, and if your soldering skills are good, the version 2.0 peak and hold injector divers from jb performance jbperf injector driver have worked well for me.

Yeah, Yeah, I'm still here.....It WILL get done. I'm finished predicting when. Absolutely no real progress lately - I'm so busy these days I don't know how I found time for a "job". The G-force 1200hp /1000ftlb torque T56 will be here in the next few days,I have a 3.69 R230 diff to swap in (after spending much time and $ on the 2.93), and the Z is bubbling up to the top of my priority list. For sure I'll update as progress happens.

I have just finished this swap on my '89. The Z31 intake manifold will not fit the Pathy (firewall interference - I used an upper manifold from a '93 pathfinder with a 1/2" phenolic spacer to get everything to clear the AC compressor), and heater tubes/hoses from the TBI engine have to be used. This was NOT a simple swap with lots of fit issues to deal with. I'm using a Megasquirt for fuel management, mounted it under the passenger seat in place of the stock ECU, and connected into the stock ECU's connector to pick up the needed signals like fuel pump, TPS, etc. My engine is a Z31/VG30 ET, and is NA for now (the Z31 turbo interferes with a frame rail) but I will be doing a rear-mount turbo in the near future. I decided to do rear mount with the truck exhaust manifolds because my truck is 4WD and getting manifolds and downpipes to fit a front mount configuration just looks too hard. I love the old truck but God is it slow. The new engine has a lower compression ratio than the truck motor but bigger cams, so it's about the same as before with my tired 300K engine, which also spun a rod bearing. I'm looking forward to the turbo power.

correct - It will fit in the VG30E and VG30ET distributors.

So when can we expect these, Matt? I would like to have one now!

I am definitely interested. I know for a fact that the 300ZX trigger wheels will fit the 280ZXT distributor and vice versa.

Wow, this is taxing the old brain to dredge up stuff from years ago. We never dyno'd my car with the Thagard manifold, but did a pretty scientific study with datalogs. Specifically, I datalogged rpm, MAP, and wideband AFR on the original ported N42 manifold with a 60mm throttle body as a baseline. I then installed Jame's manifold with the same throttle body and injectors, and made sure that the boost setting was the same. We used a good closed loop HKS boost controller which needed no readjustment, and pulled another datalog. With all other conditions the same, We recorded something like .6 AFR leaner in the higher rpm areas( more than 4500 or so up to redline as I recall)under boost. Interestingly, AFRs were actually a little richer than the stocker mani in the lower RPM cells under boost. We were testing at about 17 psi, at about the 400whp level. James postulated that,when we tuned for the additional airflow, we would gain somewhere in the neighborhood of 35-40 hp. He actually posted some graphs on his old website as I recall. I don't remember if the power gain could be felt by the butt -in fact the boost at higher RPM at some expense of spoolup mitigated the enhanced power - but definitely could be measured. We never backed up these experiments with dyno numbers or comparative dragstrip times.

I'm working with my first MS3, hoping to fire up the car tomorrow. 2JZ turbo. Looking forward to seeing how yours works on the LS.

The Z is still gathering dust, but that situation will change after July 22. Retirement time. I've been trying to work customer cars in the daytime and the "real" job at night, leaving no time for my project cars. I've decided that I will put 3.36:1 Armada gears in my diff and install a close ratio G-Force T56 - that will be the last piece of the puzzle in trying to get a drivetrain to withstand 900+ lb/ft torque.

Because the side mounting ears on the Armada diff are in a different position and need a different front mount.

OK, I selected LS1 mode in Ignition options and no rpm indication on the Jim Stim/ in Tuner Studio. The toothed wheel setup shown works. Does anyone know what other settings than the LS1 Spark mode need to be made to make it work? I have crank trigger going into Tsel, Cam signal to JS10. Toothed wheel settings are per the MS2extra ignition manual. I'm using MS2 extra, 3.1.0.

My first attempt to use the LS1 mode didn't work on my JimStim, while the toothed wheel setup did. I will give it another try.

I have been trying to resolve some driveability problems with a turbo'd LS1 - Started out with Moby's setup ( RX7MS1 below) and configured another ECU with a MS2 processor using the .msq from the megasquirt LSx manual(RX7MS2 below). Car runs well with the MS1 setup, very poorly with the MS2. I am trying to avoid the PITA getting a timing mark on this engine. Try as I might I cannot reconcile the settings between the two setups,and looking at the Scope picture (LSCrankCam) to get some timing relationships only confuses the issue. I can't see from that picture how the MS1 setup works! Again, the MS1 setup (top picture) works well except for a couple annoying stumbles. Both ECUs are set up for wasted spark, coil outputs are the same channels in both ECUs. If someone can help with this I would be really appreciate it.

I am in the process of building an LS1 setup for a MS2. Reason is that we have drivability problems on the turbo/LSxRX7 that I believe are related to a lack of ignition resolution. My configuration is pin compatible with the MS1 version covered here. Questions for Bryan: is the trigger angle between the LS1's cam signal and the desired trigger tooth 60 degrees? And should I continue to use rising and falling on the second trigger setup? MS2 doesn't have the trigger/return settings of the MS1. I have the LS1 MS2 setup with all outputs correct running on my Jim Stim - will be trying to get it going on the car in the next few days. When I get it working I'll post the V3.0 upgrade process from MS1 to MS2 and my msq.

Cool - The MS3 really does look to be the equal of some higher-end (and cost) EMS's. Looking forward to results.

I have also changed over to the registered TS and noticed a big difference. Thumbs up! Looks like a local customer will be needing help with a MS3 on a Toyota 2JZ, so I will be able to provide some impressions.

I have not used MS3 but have tuned some high-end EMS's that support sequential injection. I can say without qualification that sequential systems feel smoother at low loads and definitely enable great idle characteristics. And, while I have not encountered first hand any problems with "hot cylinders", I do feel that the cylinder trims can NOT be a bad idea at all. I have taken a peek at some Haltech calibrations done by a respected local tuner and the rear cylinder of a 2JZ was richened up a bit and retarded a couple degrees for obvious reasons. I have sworn to not mess with any more Megasquirts but am fascinated by the MS3 - I just may build one of these bad boys for my turbo Pathfinder project.