speeder

I am sure sequential helps with huge injectors. At idle, you can run twice the pulsewidth as in batch, avoiding in many cases going below the minimum turn-on time (and the resulting instability) of the injector. Resolution has nothing to do with this. There "may" be some benefits in low load (cruise operation) also. Another benefit is the ability to trim fuel to individual cylinders - which comes in handy for those engines with some cylinders that run hot, such as the L or the 2JZ. You are all correct in saying that there is minimal, if any benefit of sequential injection at high load operation/large pulsewidths.

Need a 3.69:1 R230.

Thinking ahead to getting back on this project (Yes I will, nay-sayers) I have decided to go a different direction with the trans and do an overdrive six-speed (Rockland Gear Tranzilla) - I have always worried about the built T10's durability (and have sold the Jerico dog-box - just did not want to deal with that) with this setup and like the T56's shifter orientation better than the classic T10's side mount. T10 and 2.93 R230 are for sale to offset the staggering cost of the 6-speed. I will be going with a standard 3.69:1 Z32 Diff, which I had in the car in the first place.

Wet toilet paper works well also - with less cleanup.

Sent you an email.

Been busy lately and haven't checked back on this thread... I'll get some numbers out of my laptop at the shop and post them later today for you, also a couple basic checks to make sure that the physical setup is right. It really doesn't take much setup to get the TEC running halfway decent.

Details are pretty hazy now (maybe I don't want to remember those sweaty/itchy days ) but I did some molding to make the front of the flares transition into the airdam.(looks like you have cut off the original airdam part of the one-piece that had the molded on parts of the flares) I took thin cardboard, formed it close to the desired shape, taped it onto the desired place, covered it with wax paper (to prevent the resin from sticking ) and then built the piece with cloth and resin over the form just described. Careful grinding/sanding finished the piece. If I was doing your car, I might think about widening the airdam shown and then making the desired transitions into the front. You could reform the front airdam and side panel transitions the same way if the tops of the flares are the right size/shape. Hell, you could even reshape the whole thing that way. You wouldn't believe how many times I did a piece of fiberglass, looked at it, didn't like it, chopped it off with a saber saw, and redid it. This is how it looked on my car: I consider myself pretty spastic with fiberglass and bodywork, but I'm very stubborn - I kept at it until I had what I wanted. This may be one of those things that would cost too much if you were paying someone to do - I think I warned you about that when you picked up the body kit. Good luck with this - let me know if I can offer any more suggestions or moral support... PS, Do you still have that rear spoiler? If so , I'd be interested in buying it back from you.

Don't know if Mike ZGAD passed this on to you, but while doing my diff (the initial one), Donny, the guy at the shop who did both Mike's and mine, had me research a thicker carrier bearing because he ran into this same thing. I came up with Timken # 32211 92KA "TRB-ISO ASSY" - I actually took the old bearing of the desired thickness into my local Miller Bearing store to match up. I think he used two of them - and the diff build was completed. I think the way Donny knew that a thicker bearing was required was that he measured one of the old bearings removed from the Armada diff ( As best I recall - the desired ones may have been in the Z case), and found that they were thicker than the ones from the Z32. Memory is foggy but at one point He was thinking about making some shims but I believe the thicker bearing solved the problem. Mike's build went a lot smoother as a result.

Looks as if I don't have a calibration for the L28 any more ( I use custom software that produces non-Wintec compatible setups) , but let me know what size injectors you have, give me about a day or so and I'll give you some settings that should get the car running decently. The Electromotive stuff is probably the easiest to set up of all the EMS 's I've worked with - so stay with it. We can work via email or PM if you prefer. Too bad you're so far away from Merritt Island - Mine is probably the shop you're looking for.

The E11 does require an external igniter - "maybe" and MSD box can substitute, but you must make the right ignition settings. I believe the software includes a Nissan distributor setup. I'll check and get back with you.

TEC2? TEC3? I may be able to help.

Nope,but 2011 is the year. I retire this year so there will be plenty of time to get this done. Scottie has been on my case about it and I will have no more excuses.

Based on my personal experience with SPEC, I would stay away from them: SPEC Lots of people chimed in with bad experiences with L6 SPEC clutch applications. I finally used an ACT setup that worked/lasted well.

This guy is a memeber here -"almightywez" and has done a few things for me. Always best quality and good price with quick turnaround. I started using him when my local guy went out of business. JNZ Finishing

Add me to the "interested" list plaese. Definitely want one if available in a 3 gauge version. I have some 280Z plastic inner pillar trims if you need one.

Buried in several previous threads/posts on this subject is the fact that the 3.36 or 2.93 Armada R&P will not fit in the Z32TT case. The Z32TT was only available with a 3.69 ratio. Regarding input/output flanges: In my case, I went with the Z32 outputs and input because I wanted to use Z32 CVs with Z32 outer stubs and already had a Z32/1350 flange for my driveshaft. This is a really good, detailed thread - I can't provide many details because I had a shop do my diff hybridization.

LOL Tony another "swarf" reference! I am currently in the upstate New York mountains with limited internet accesss and am just now checking back in on this - The failures I mentioned were on two different regulators/ cars and both FPRs were unmolested from the factory. Maybe coincidental to have two failures so close together, but I thought I would ask to see if anyone else is seeing the same thing. I have installed maybe 20-30 of these things and have found them to be 100% reliable until now. I don't think I need any hightech failure warning, but am really sensitive to fuel pressure malfunctions - I once destroyed the sweetest turbo L I ever had because an FPR reference hose failed. I have used stainless braid covered teflon AN hose for this ever since. The failure on my car this time was more insidious in that it appears to have been a progressive tear/hole in the diaphragm that showed good fuel pressure the whole time, but was dumping more and more gas into the intake. I'm a bit ashamed to admit that it took so long for me to diagnose the problem. When I get back to civilization and get time to take the thing apart I'll post some pics.

Just recently I have seen 2 instances - one on my car - of the Aeromotive A1000 (P/N 13101) having a bad diaphagm that allows raw gas to be introduced to the intake. Anyone else seen the same thing? Maybe the result of more alcohol in the gas? The things are rebuildable for cheap but I'm thinking that if there's a problem with these regulators I will switch brands. This regulator was probably responsible for the rings' failure to seal on my newly built 2JZ stroker. The leakage increased progressively so the problem was not immediately obvious tuning - wise on a new engine and new ECM.

I must be out of my mind, but couldn't resist scooping these up. Old Kinsler Indy style ITBs for the Buick. Pretty hot looking, huh? Pretty sure I will have hood clearance with my low-mounted motor and cowled hood... This will be a project for later (after the car gets running, hopefully by the end of this year)- I will have to build a plenum and machine the mechanical injector bungs for EFI. I'm thinking that I will put one set of injectors in the traditional place, and fabricate a fuel rail to go inside the plenum to feed a set of 6 secondary injectors in a "standoff" position.

I find failures like this horrifying and fascinating at the same time. I've never seen one like that before... Seems like I read somewhere that turbine wheeels are friction welded to the shafts, and from the looks of this (clean break with no evidence of burning) it looks as if that weld was defective.

I have a good running msq for a turbo LT1 with MS1, EDIS and 65 pound injectors - will be glad to provide it if you want.

And this relates to Electromotive ECUs how? You can get more/better responses by posting in another category.

Just an observation...to use the ZG's OR molded in flares to cover wide offset wheels (and I know because those are my old wheels), you HAVE to cut the fenders/inner fender wells to provide outside clearance. Otherwise, as has been mentioned, either flare will strictly be a cosmetic measure. Your choice - wide fat tires or functional flares.

Aw Shucks Warren.

Pictures should be back sometime in the future - I'm redoing my server IP. My tilt front was built by bonding/molding fiberglass fenders, hood, and airdam together. Major pita/effort.