speeder

The Z is back with me - I'm now working on clearance stuff, modifying the car to fit around the new drivetrain. With the motor offset 1.5" to the left, the header on that side has clearance issues with the strut tower - I've cut a section out of the strut tower and will weld in a concave piece so that header can be removed/installed without raising the engine. After doing some hammering (but not cutting) on the strut towers, I belatedly thought that maybe I should install my strut brace before proceeding. Good idea, huh? I have found that my triangulated strut brace will work with this engine, as well as having room for a 2" tall throttle body spacer to increase the plenum volume of the EFI converted Victor Intake. Next I'll be removing the upper part of the core support and build a frame for the angled radiator.

Hey Jeff, I have 2 sets of rebuilt 280ZXT axles that I need to get rid of. PM me.

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose gland nut at the top of the shock body. I could have sworn it was a bearing problem...

Good luck Mike...

Reminds me of some of the things we do to people who doze off on third shift. Some really embarassing pictures result

I have also used them with no negative effects - The flathead bolts' allen heads tend to strip easily, however ... and I definitely second Joel's recommendation to use anti-seize. FYI: I have 4 of these that I intend to put up for sale...

This was a joke - I was watching the welding process and sensed a photo op. Mean? That guy is Curly from the 3 Stooges. I've always been amused to find that people think that it's me. That piece will be plenty strong, thank you - The design ties in with the stock crossmember.

Yesterday the motor was fully supported by some really elegant Scottie-GNZ -designed cradle/mounts - Final welding being done as we speak. A little hammering on the inner fenders and the headers/turbos fit! I was worried about wastegate room but it looks to be easy to fit. Note the V-banded angle adaptors for the header-to turbine inlet connections. The GN headers had to have this mod to mount the turbos inward in the Z's long - but - narrow engine bay.. I will have to angle the radiator to make room for air filters- I have discovered that I will have to hammer/ mod the passenger footwell to clear my rear-mount starter and clearance the rear of the trans tunnel for my 1350-Ujointed driveshaft, but, with the radiator mod, those "appear" to be the last clearance issues.

IMO, with big torque motors in a Z, or serious deceleration loads caused by road racing, it is a good idea to make your diff front mount as strong as possible to resist any movement in the vertical plane. There are several different front mount beef-up solutions in the Drivetrain forum, including mine.

Tranny Mount is built, Motor mounts are mocked up. Pics soon. Saw Z-Gad on the road yesterday and he remarked "Well, now that it's at Scottie's we'll see some progress." There are still lots of things to fabricate, hammer, and ortherwise make fit, but it's getting far enough along to start looking doable. Talk about underestimating the scope of a project...

Spent some quality time with Swapmeister Scottie today - We got the trans mount mocked up with "just" a minimum of cutting on the car. That V6 sure looks tiny in there. I do have some plans for all that space up front, however....

Car, engine, and transmission are at Scottie's - We begin measurements for motor mount construction tomorrow.

Dr. James, Good to hear from you! Please stay in touch. You have mine and Scotties' and Mike Gads' numbers.

I went with the Armada diff because I needed the 2.93 gears (Non-Overdrive transmission) instead of the Z32's 3.70. The Armada R&P won't fit into the Z32 case. My Buick Stage 2 and 27" tall Mickey Thompson drag radials should give the setup a good stress test, as I'm expecting somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-900 lb/ft of torque.

Finally got my rear done - Details of my diff mount for the Armada-cased R230 are in my build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1047276#post1047276

Back to work. To make room for the fenderwell exhaust exits, and to reduce sensitivity of the brake pedal for my Wilwoods, twin Tilton masters with balance bar are installed. Front crossmember's motor mounts shaved and control arm pivots relocated Right side tool box area cut, welded and seam-sealed for Armada-cased R230 mounting ear clearance. Front diff mount built What a pain to build that, had to lift the 125 pound diff in and out about 10 times. The Armada case has wider spaced mounting ears than the Z32TT case, necessitating more cutting and a more complicated diff mount. Here's the mount installed. And finally , the end result - The R230 mounted with full TTT setup and Dan's sweet rlcas: I'm working on getting the motor outfitted with all the major protruberences (drysump pump, etc.) so we can begin engine bay placement and motor mount build. I had made some rough measurments that told me that the turbo placement would put them into the sides of the inner fenderwell, so I have modified the headers rather than cut on the car. Headers are now at the tig welder's to receive V-bands and right angle adaptors - Will give great flexibility in making the turbos fit and getting good angles for the twin 3" downpipes. I'll post pictures when done. Next step is to take the car to Scottie's tomorrow for engine mount installation. I'm excited to be this far - Will be too cool to see the engine in its new home!

You know that Zs don't do well in the snow, right? Sorry to see you go, Man.

What Joel said... The TEC3 is far from obsolete in terms of performance, and is probably the best bang for the buck in terms of cost, with no external igniters required. Electromotive's ignition is probably the best/ most powerful I've encountered for a turbocharged car. Some other ECUs have more features and outputs, but you will find none that offer better performance.

If you guys will follow my link in the post above you will find the complete BAE kit manual. I posted this for another guy years ago.

Also, that noise is almost certainly an exhaust leak, from a single cylinder from the sound of it. I've also heard a head gasket leak that blows out the side sound like that. You can test that with a compression check.

Check this out: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96805&highlight=BAE It looks as if you don't have the silicone hose clamped well at the throttle body?

Looks good to me - 15-20 amps should be sufficient for the fuse.

B-0 is the 12v power source for the six coils and the igniter. The noise filter capaciter is connected from this bus to ground. The IGC outputs pulse the coils to ground to fire them. If this igniter is like the Lexus ones I've used, the IGT inputs cause a negative pulse out of the igniter for a positive 5V pulse (like the Haltech outputs) input To wire in your Haltech's three ignition outputs do: IGN1 to IGT1&6, IGN2 to IGT2&5, IGN3 to IGT3&4. wire the coils per the diagram. This will yield a waste spark configuration fired in 1/6-2/5-3/4 order. Make sure that you set the Haltech ignition setup to FALLING edge, about 3MS dwell before you power on the system or you will blow something up. Ask me how I know. I don't recall what the IGF is but I don't believe it is required. I'll try to check and verify this. Use the tach output pin 1 to directly drive your car's tach - You may need a resistor in the line - if it's not a 240z one.

Here Ya go. Your connectors are I2 and I3. Diagrams are looking into the cable plug. A=I2, B=I3 on the igniter wire diagram. http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/IGN.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/2J Connectors.jpg