DeleriousZ

there is no room for a turbo on that side of the engine where the stock manifold would put it, you will need to make custom manifolds.

bleh, z31.com is the past. z31p is the future.

http://www.nistune.com/ standalone capabilities with the stock ecu. This is what the vast majority of z31 tuners are running right now. user friendly and very powerful. Extremely cheap for its functionality to boot. Matt, the guy who does it has very very good customer service as well. and because it's out of australia, the usd and even cad are quite a bit stronger than the aud, so it works out being even cheaper.

blah blah blah, z31's are better.

avoid the romulator! go NisTune!

more of a whoo whoo than a whish whish? sounds like the turbo's on its way out. or you popped a coupler somewhere.

there's a bolt that's hiding underneath the distributor, make sure you've removed that one too.

it's very unlikely that a steel mount will fail under compression unless it's very poorly made or poorly welded. tension is the one you need to worry about.

most GM cars have the squeeze clips you need.. if you're into the junkyard hunting type of thing. it also depends on what injectors you have. if they're the later side feed style then you'll need to modify the new clips, because the injectors have the tabs slightly offset compared to most bosch style clips. (pita if you have side feed injectors!!)

wtf Careless you were out in calgary?? when!?

http://redz31.net/pages/turbo.html'>http://redz31.net/pages/turbo.html for future reference. http://redz31.net/ is your source for all things basic z31, along with: http://xenonz31.com/ everything to complete a n/a to turbo swap is listed in the above redz31 link. all z31 transmissions bolt up to the vg30e/t, there are no bellhousing differences. there are different mounting points for the different transmission crossmembers, but from what i've seen, all of the mounting points on mine are drilled/tapped already. for headgaskets, any engine can use a W-series (87+) head gasket, but the W series cannot use a A/B series gasket (earlier gasket on later car)

www.xenonz31.com/reference has the FSM. the fsm has all the wiring you need.

ARP 434-1301 is what you want for exhaust manifold studs.

buahahahaha that is all Raff i don't think the fusion ic would work for you, TO gets too hot during mid summer to make it work right i'd think.

woah that engine sits Really far back in that engine bay, should make for some good balance. what are you doing for exhaust manifolds? the stock crossover pipe (vg30 from 300zx) probably won't fit back there. more details on build? turbo? n/a? power goals?

it also depends how stock the car is.. ie if you have all of the emissions equipment, stock fan and fan shroud etc, then it's quite a pain just to get to it. removing the crank pulley bolt is generally the most difficult part of it all, having impact wrenches handy is definitely a good thing to have for removing it. you'll also want some sort of puller to remove the crank pulley, and crank timing sprocket. (i used block of wood and hammer, but i was lucky and my pulley was not stuck on there very good) make sure you replace every seal you can when you're there (front crank seal, both cam seals, water pump etc) as well as the woodruf key(or keys depending on your year) a good Complete list of parts you should replace can be found here: http://z31.com/wiki/doku.php?id=parts_list:timingbelt definitely make sure you replace the CHTS and its subharness when you're in there, cause it's a royal pain to try and replace that with everything assembled. test the chts before you install it if possible to eliminate any possibility of installing a faulty sensor.

ah ok, my ac is long gone. perhaps that would be beneficial for a secondary fan switch.. something that careless might be interested in lol.

http://autospeed.com/A_110772/cms/article.html those boys love their off the wall fixes and efforts.

the viscous lsd's are worth a pretty penny amongst the z31 crowd. don't ask me why, i think they're fubar.

paraffin wax intercooler.

basic t3/t4 hybrid will serve you well. don't forget to do the supporting mods, the stock fuel system won't support much past 12psi on the tiny stock turbo, let alone an upgraded one.

which one? cylinder head temperature sensor (CHTS) goes into the driver's side head on the front right beneath the distributor behind the timing belt cover (very hard to see if you don't know where to look) there should be its subharness coming from the passenger's side lower intake manifold area. the coolant temp sensor that the dash uses is on the lower intake manifold, passenger's side, there is a single wire running to it with a clip style connector. it is in front of the water pipe that comes off that side of the LIM. it should be right below where the connector is for the air regulator. i've found another coolant temp sensor on the radiator on my 88t, i have yet to determine what it's for though.

we use parker a lot at work (industrial, 6,12,16 cyl large displacement diesel engines) and they do a great job. after holding up to 50,000 hours of hard abuse, i'd be more than happy to use them on my car (and i do)

try checking ebay before you do anything, i've found some pretty off the wall flanges available on there before.

i dunno about you, but i'd rather be moving my foot back and forth when my tip is 1/32" away from the puddle, not fumbling with my thumb bouncing the tip off the material. to each their own.