DeleriousZ

From what I've experienced it does a great job at keeping bits clear of aluminum chunkies.

For the drilling and tapping of aluminum, I can't imagine a 'cash only' style machine shop that everyone so reveres would charge that much to turn aluminum bar stock. I have found that WD-40 is a great help for any sort of 'home machining' of aluminum, especially carbide bits for removing material.

Justin you are my new favorite s30 owner. Start notching so you can go moar low Bump steer spacers are definitely a must.. however I never imagined that the lca would still be at that extreme of an angle when going that low. Mind you, going low is a lifestyle, if you're not prepared to break things then low isn't for you.

I'm unfamiliar with s130 suspension, but if it's anything similar to the z31's then a setup similar to the one outlined in the links below might work. http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14103 http://z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10135 The adapters or 'weld on collars' can be had from 'serial nine.' I'd link but the site has some NSFW content on it and well... I'm at work. sooo, y'know. This might be the solution for those who wish to go LOW.

i'm the opposite from you... living in a metric country and metric hardware is much harder to find than imperial stuff. it's really frustrating!!

springs with a shorter free length will be loose when the suspension is at full droop (ie on jackstands) just don't take any jumps with the car and your springs shouldn't fall out

beware of the sae stuff, it has a 45* taper. it will work in a pinch, but i wouldn't recommend it.

they should have rubber flaps or similar over the holes on the sides to make it totally efficient.

all z31's except 84-86 n/a's had 5 bolt hubs. 5x114.3

what about using belville washers to keep the bolts under const. torque?

i'll take your word for it

what'sa matter vag, you get tired of z31p?

z31's have no problems taking tall people. i'm 6'0 and feel tiny in the seats. anything with a t3 foot on the turbine will work for turbo's, internally gated makes things easier, you'll probably have to fabricate a new downpipe/elbow becuase nissan's t3 outlet flange is unique. have you read up on the turbo swap and what it requires?

remember that cutting coils increases spring rate (effectively)

you'd think that if MSA's 'universal for z' anti-sway bar endlink kit didn't actually work whatsoever for 87-89 z's they'd note that on the page somewhere. Buuut they don't, so don't assume just because it's still there it works well. /bitterness.

looks very similar to what is done to allow camber adjustment on the z31 semi-trailing arm suspension.

Hey all, I am wondering if anyone has a source for all of the different turbo flange dimensions? I have a turbo that's made for a new holland ford tractor that has some odd flange sizes on it (turbine, both inlet and outlet) and was wondering if it's actually a standard size, or something they had custom made. The turbo is a garrett turbo (air research actually). Anyway, if I can't find something of a standard size, is it permissable to make a gasket out of shim stock? Or even bolt the flange to the turbine outlet directly? Thanks!

if you do re-use bearings, make sure to totally clean everything and repack with fresh grease. i too recommend replacing the bearings. it saves the trouble of re-doing them when one breaks and the hub falls off on the road (not fun, had something similar happen in a fwd car with rear wheel)

once steel is heated to cherry red, it hits the annealing temp and loses all of its hardness properties. if not quenched properly (oil, water or air) then it will remain in its softened annealed state. while i'm sure when in compression loading, it wouldn't really pose a huge problem, but if you're using this method on something that's going to be in tension, then i'd start to worry about it.

setup is avail. from boost logic now, the price however is inline with the quality of work, not cheap lol. i wish i had 1/4 the fab skill involved here... the fit on those pipes is so damn tight he probably used about 1 rod of filler for the whole damn setup:shock:

make sure you've got a fan going when welding underneath the car. either that or wear an activated charcoal respirator. those fumes are not good for you.

fah-qew! http://redz31.net/turbofaq/turbo.faq.htm

just curious, but did you ever clean/flowtest your injectors when you were having these issues?

52nd anniversairy? sooo an '86? the only 'anniversairy' edition was a 50th AE that was made in 1984. the stock engine is a VG30ET, not DET (the DET was never offered in north america, infact the only z31 chassis to receive a quad cam engine was the 300zr from japan) people have laid down 450rwhp on stock bottom end reliably. if you're looking for a good z31 specific forum, check out z31performance.com.

fast fast fast. i love that it's so ratty looking too, it would almost be a shame to make it beautiful on the outside. oh and flatblack280, you'll need more than just the fascia to convert noses, i'm sure you knew, just making sure